MC2
04-12-2009, 05:58 AM
So everything is back together on the car now after i did the oil separator plate
ATF, oil, front diff, rear diff, all the fluids changed, and topped off.
Checked and double checked all of the connections, everything is connected: vehicle speed sensor, 1st O2 sensor (grey connector), 2nd O2 sensor (white connector), two transmission harness connectors, etc.
I first just turned the car to the "ON" position without starting it. Everything seemed normal. Then i turned the key to the off position and some of the dash lights stayed on with the AT OIL TEMP light flashing extremely rapidly and a buzzing sound coming from the ABS control module. The buzzing lasts for a few seconds and then will stop, but the AT OIL TEMP light keeps going crazy and doesn't stop until i disconnect the battery.
I reconnected the battery to try again and it seemed normal this time so i tried to start the car. The car started after cranking over several times (maybe battery was weak because it hasn't been driven for two weeks) and the engine revved up to 2k rpm and then the car just shut off immediately after it revved up.
I was afraid to start the car again, but turning it to the "ON" and then "OFF" positions would consistently produce the scenario i described earlier. Any idea what would cause that?
I had to remove the IACSV, TPS, and EGR valve to get more space when i was pulling the tranny. I didn't replace the gasket on the IACV or EGR. I cleaned the IACSV with q-tips and rubbing alcohol while it was out, i didnt really pay attention to the orientation of the rotary valve inside. When putting the TPS back, how should it be oriented? It can be rotated a few degrees since there's a slot for the screws as opposed to just a hole. I had tightened it down in the position which it naturally went in at with no resistance. Do i need to rotate that forward a bit and then tighten down? Would that have caused my high rev right at start?
Any idea why the car shut down after starting up the first time?
Note that besides the oil separator plate, i also did did the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, and bled the brakes. At one point i thought i let the brake reservoir get too low, i don't know if the ABS control module will do that if there's air in the ABS system?
I probably did too many things at once... no control variables... fun times...
ATF, oil, front diff, rear diff, all the fluids changed, and topped off.
Checked and double checked all of the connections, everything is connected: vehicle speed sensor, 1st O2 sensor (grey connector), 2nd O2 sensor (white connector), two transmission harness connectors, etc.
I first just turned the car to the "ON" position without starting it. Everything seemed normal. Then i turned the key to the off position and some of the dash lights stayed on with the AT OIL TEMP light flashing extremely rapidly and a buzzing sound coming from the ABS control module. The buzzing lasts for a few seconds and then will stop, but the AT OIL TEMP light keeps going crazy and doesn't stop until i disconnect the battery.
I reconnected the battery to try again and it seemed normal this time so i tried to start the car. The car started after cranking over several times (maybe battery was weak because it hasn't been driven for two weeks) and the engine revved up to 2k rpm and then the car just shut off immediately after it revved up.
I was afraid to start the car again, but turning it to the "ON" and then "OFF" positions would consistently produce the scenario i described earlier. Any idea what would cause that?
I had to remove the IACSV, TPS, and EGR valve to get more space when i was pulling the tranny. I didn't replace the gasket on the IACV or EGR. I cleaned the IACSV with q-tips and rubbing alcohol while it was out, i didnt really pay attention to the orientation of the rotary valve inside. When putting the TPS back, how should it be oriented? It can be rotated a few degrees since there's a slot for the screws as opposed to just a hole. I had tightened it down in the position which it naturally went in at with no resistance. Do i need to rotate that forward a bit and then tighten down? Would that have caused my high rev right at start?
Any idea why the car shut down after starting up the first time?
Note that besides the oil separator plate, i also did did the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, and bled the brakes. At one point i thought i let the brake reservoir get too low, i don't know if the ABS control module will do that if there's air in the ABS system?
I probably did too many things at once... no control variables... fun times...