B&M short shifter...RIP

[rclsubaru]

So I figured out what the hell the clicking noise was everytime I shifted from first to second and from third to fourth...my B&M SS broke. By broke I mean the aluminum part seperated from the rod. Didnt know that could happen but it did.

I called B&M and they said to send it back and they would decide if its replaceable or not...I guess we'll see how that goes.

Any suggestions for a new SS? I'm guessing the kartboy one would be the best seeing 95% of subarus have them installed, and their a solid piece. If B&M does send me a new one it'll be up for sale for real cheap if anyone wants it..

[decke48]

kartboy is good. but if you want to fool around with height and throw get the group a

[impreza_GC8]

Group A is modeled after the Cobb Double Adjustable. Either of those are the best.
To the OP: If I recall you posted in the eBay short shift thread that your B&M was an identical shifter that cost way more, why not just get the eBay one since it seems thats what you had all along.

[KAG]

I have the Kartboy and I love it. It was a little hard to get used to at first (almost to the point where I wanted to try a different brand instead) but once I got the hang of it, shifting felt a lot better.

[chuckthefuk]

How hard are you shifting? I've had my B&M for over 2 years now and have put it through extreme events without any wear.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/


If you have the $$$ the Cobb unit is very nice. Throw adjustable and Height adjustable.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/images/5spd_Shifter.jpg
$135 http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/co ... -3704.html (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/cobb-tuning-wrx-short-shifter-for-oem-short-shifters-p-3704.html)

-Chuck

[anothernord]

I have the B&M ebay knockoff. It works fine, but required some custom work to make it fit and not rattle around.

[rougeben83]

I'm using this one:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/09/IS301-1.jpg

http://www.ixizconcept.com/

They also have one where you can adjust the throw and height and add weight to the shaft if you want...

Kartboy's nice, I just found it to lower the knob a little too much for the way I drive. Other people swear by it though...

Try to stick with a steel shifter, some of the aluminum ones (like the BM and some of the one-piece cnc'ed ones) tend to have some higher pitched vibration and transmit more noticeable gear noise when youre cruising...at least it was the case on the PDM shifter I used to have.

[BlackBK]

I have the ebay b&m knockoff and it is noisy for sure

[rclsubaru]

Group A is modeled after the Cobb Double Adjustable. Either of those are the best.
To the OP: If I recall you posted in the eBay short shift thread that your B&M was an identical shifter that cost way more, why not just get the eBay one since it seems thats what you had all along.

I'm not going to get the same thing if it will break again.

The red area is where it seperated. I don't shift hard at all either and I bought it directly from B&M so its not a knock off.

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/rclsubaru/sidebysidefo3.jpg

The cobb one looks very nice I'm definetly looking into it. The group A one I wouldn't know where to buy it, but I've heard good things about theit TB spacers and such.

[rclsubaru]

I just looked at the COBB SS and it says its for the cars with the factory OEM SPT short shifter already installed.

Or will it work without it?

[chuckthefuk]

I just looked at the COBB SS and it says its for the cars with the factory OEM SPT short shifter already installed.

Or will it work without it?

PM Reason he can get any Group A since hes a registered vendor for Group A.

I don't see how a SPT shifter installed by Subaru is going to make a difference since your switching to a COBB unit. Maybe they say this since the SPT comes with bushings but from all the install's i've seen on the net theres no need for the SPT to be installed prior to the Cobb unit.
-Chuck

[rclsubaru]

Okay thanks for the help. I'll see what Reason can do before I got for the cobb.

[decke48]

the only thing bad about the cobb is they like to lossen up causing it to rattle. so you have to keep an eye on it. the group a isnt supose to have this problem, from what i heard (vendors). i had a cobb SS i loved it. except it need to be tightened every 2-3 month till i finally just used some purple loctite to keep it in place

[rougeben83]

^^^ I think this is a common issue with adjustable shifters, I just did that on my shifter and put loctite on the thread.

[rclsubaru]

Yea I was thinking that it might start to loosen up eventually.

And my stock shifter is such a piece, the plastic ball on the end has started to wiggle not and I honestly cant figure out how to tighten it.

[rougeben83]

Yea I was thinking that it might start to loosen up eventually.

And my stock shifter is such a piece, the plastic ball on the end has started to wiggle not and I honestly cant figure out how to tighten it.

it's on there via a pressed-in pin, if it's loose, I don't really think you can change it. Also, on the BE's, if you get a shortshifter you have to do some triming to the metal frame around the base, otherwise the linkage the short shifter bolts onto will hit up against it

[downest]

If anyone is interested I'm going to mod an OEM shifter for my wagon when I do my 5MT swap. I have an OEM WRX shifter right now and plenty of cars around to try it on. I've been modding Honda shifters for a while, including the one in my own personal car... but generally I've been modding them to be LONGER for closer shifting. Making a STS wouldn't be that hard though.

Here's the one in my CRX:
http://wickedinnovation.net/downest/shifter/shifter_4.jpg

I cut the top and bottom rods off, and TIG weld solid steel extensions to both, so for the tall shifter it's a slightly shorter than stock throw, but with the knob closer to the wheel. There isn't as much room for extension on Subarus but it could still be done, and of course a short throw alone would be pretty easy. Personally I wouldn't touch an aluminium shifter, they have been known to crack and break off for a long time on many markets, and the weight of steel improves the feel (just like a weighted knob).

[rclsubaru]

Yea I was thinking that it might start to loosen up eventually.

And my stock shifter is such a piece, the plastic ball on the end has started to wiggle not and I honestly cant figure out how to tighten it.

it's on there via a pressed-in pin, if it's loose, I don't really think you can change it. Also, on the BE's, if you get a shortshifter you have to do some triming to the metal frame around the base, otherwise the linkage the short shifter bolts onto will hit up against it

Damn alright well I guess I'm stuck with that for a bit.

But what do you mean? I never had a problem with the B&M hitting anything, atleast I dont think so..

[downest]

On some shifters the linkage hits at the front of the square plate that goes over the assembly. I just installed a Kartboy shifter on an 05 LGT a couple of weeks ago and had to trim it out to fit.

From Kartboy's tech section (post on scoobymods):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/04/9_clearence-1.jpg

The one I did required a bit of trimming to get it to clear perfectly.

[rougeben83]

On some shifters the linkage hits at the front of the square plate that goes over the assembly. I just installed a Kartboy shifter on an 05 LGT a couple of weeks ago and had to trim it out to fit.

From Kartboy's tech section (post on scoobymods):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/04/9_clearence-1.jpg

The one I did required a bit of trimming to get it to clear perfectly.

yep that's exactly what I had to do. Maybe you're just luckier with your car. I swear mine just hates me sometimes. :evil:

[birukun]

If anyone is interested I'm going to mod an OEM shifter for my wagon when I do my 5MT swap. I have an OEM WRX shifter right now and plenty of cars around to try it on. I've been modding Honda shifters for a while, including the one in my own personal car... but generally I've been modding them to be LONGER for closer shifting. Making a STS wouldn't be that hard though.

Here's the one in my CRX:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

I cut the top and bottom rods off, and TIG weld solid steel extensions to both, so for the tall shifter it's a slightly shorter than stock throw, but with the knob closer to the wheel. There isn't as much room for extension on Subarus but it could still be done, and of course a short throw alone would be pretty easy. Personally I wouldn't touch an aluminium shifter, they have been known to crack and break off for a long time on many markets, and the weight of steel improves the feel (just like a weighted knob).

That is awesome!

Still getting 40+ MPG in the CRX?

[downest]

Not getting anything now without an engine :P I got over 40MPG on pretty much all of my engines, since I fine tune the ECU whenever I'm on a long trip. My last motor was a 12.5:1 CR built all motor B17A1 and it got ~42mpg driving up and down the east coast from florida to the Niagara meet and back via new england. I