DIY Push Button Start (no keys required!)

[frogsthatmoo]

Ok, so this is a guide to wire up the fog lights (if you, like me, happen to have none installed anymore) switch to turn the car on and off, and a momentary switch the run the starter motor. This is a true push start button, no key required... AT ALL! Well, except to unlock your doors...


Parts:

(2) 40 Amp 12v Automotive Relays
(1) Reel of 12AWG wire (20 feet is plenty)
(1) Package of Fuse Taps
(1) Momentary switch



Also get some (if you didn't have any, I did) 16-18AWG wire for the switches. The 12AWG is perfect for the actual starter and stuff, but it's way too big for the switches. If you are a cheap-o (like me!) you can take an unused computer power cable, cut off both the ends, and cut it down the middle. Inside of these are three very nice 16AWG wires that are very flexible and perfect for the switches. They are also different colors which is very very helpful later on.

Tools:

Lots of electrical tape, nice pliers, a pair of needle nose are helpful too, philips head screwdriver, dremel, duct tape.



So let's get started!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492977238_d91ede4573-1.jpg

Start with removing the four screws that hold this trim piece on.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492989688_0a238cdc46-1.jpg

Go ahead and undo all three harnesses so you can completely take out the trim piece. Just make sure you know which harness goes to cruise control and which is the rear defroster.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492181911_2c313122ed-1.jpg

Taking this kick panel off will make the next step easier. There are only two screws in the kick panel, but there are four clips, so you just pull on the whole panel and it will pop out. There are lots of modules attached to the back of this panel so it's hard to get it out of the way. Once I began wiring up the relays, I tried turning it sideways and shoving it between the pedals to get it out of the way. You'll just need to figure something out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492175013_07fca2ac3d-1.jpg

Take out the four screws from under here. There is also the plastic cap thing that you give one full turn and then it just pops out. You'll need to remove the entire casing to the steering column. If you lower the lever you can get the bottom half off and out of the car so it's not in the way (highly recommended)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492185463_e3c8628f01_b-1.jpg

Now we are going to attack the steering wheel locking mechanism. To start, you'll want to remove the brown metal plate that is on the bottom of the column. Beware, the four screws that hold this in are very in there so be wary not the strip them out. Otherwise, it's going to be verrrry hard to get at the locking pin (near impossible).

Your car should also look like the above picture now. You can see all the wires everywhere! :)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492995706_021a00114a-1.jpg

Here are the bolts that you are going to have to dremel at. If you take a round bit, small the better, you can make marks into these two bolts to make them flat head screw driver compatible. Make the cuts somewhat deep because the metal [i]is soft and easily stripped. But the bolts aren't on there very hard so and it wasn't hard for me to turn them out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492191509_ed1ae41b6d-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493011916_fcc28668ff-1.jpg

Now you can move the ignition switch over and figure out a way to hold the pin down at all times. As a back up, I put a little duct tape around the shaft and hole that the pin goes into so there is no way for the pin to go back to the locked position.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493018590_4b522ed90c-1.jpg

You can see the duct tape there.

The hard part is figuring out a good way to keep the pin retracted. I wasn't in the mood to take apart the assembly and take out the spring or anything so I was thinking of ways to almost weld the pin down. I tried solder but didn't have a soldering iron so I gave up and left it with the duct tape which so far is working. The spring is very light so it really wont take much to keep it retracted, but you'll still want to figure something out.


Now that you have the wheel lock taken care of, we can move onto the wiring.

You'll want to find the harness that runs from the ignition switch down the the pedals area. It should be kind of easy because these are pretty hefty (12AWG) wires, where-as all the others are 16-18.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493006206_9786e3a890_b-1.jpg

That's the harness, I labeled each wire for you too. Now, you're going to want to expand the ground wire clip thing to accept two wires into it. Other wish you're going to have to splice it later to run the ground to two relays. It's easier with two separate wires. You'll use the flat kind of quick disconnect connectors so fitting two into one socket isn't hard, just takes a little modding the prongs inside the harness.

Now, for the 12v source, I put a fuse tap onto the fuse that does the door locks. This is the only fuse in there that I found that was constantly hot. You're going to run both relays' 12v off this one fuse too, it's easier that way.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493021896_b331318b52_b-1.jpg

There you can see the relay with the 12v from the fuse box. The wire coming out of it goes straight up to the fog light switch.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493025484_36ae33aefd_b-1.jpg

I looped it up and through like that.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492211675_efa5154bb1_b-1.jpg

You just use two of the roundy quick disconnects and plug them in just like that. Each disconnect will be on two pins. You can squeeze the connector together a little bit to get a more snugger fit on the pins inside the switch. After you get the wiring from the fuse to the relay to the switch, you run a grounding wire to somewhere in the car. I used that big metal plate that we took off earlier as a ground place because it was close and easily accessible. You can find you're own grounding places if you want. I just thought the plate was easy.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492214785_b3b071539a-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492218399_a73dd248a3_b-1.jpg

Now, around here I got lazy on the pictures so I'll just fill you in, it's not hard.

You've got to run two flat connector wires from the ground and On/Off side of the harness to the first relay. You can test if this is working by pushing the switch and seeing if the car turns on etc. If just the radio comes on, you've got the wrong pin. Here's a better picture of the first wiring.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492221917_1595e51358_b-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493042496_1e61643164-1.jpg

Remember how I said you have to shove two wires into one pin? That's how I did it. It's much easier (IMO) this way than splicing two wires together. You're going to need to have two grounding wires to go to both relays.

Now, make sure to run two 12v wires off the one fuse (just twist the ends together and put them into one quick disconnect and attach to the fuse tap) and you can even run them through the cover.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492228531_5faf489535-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492239473_a4e6275efc-1.jpg

Now repeat what you did for the On/Off switch with the starter wiring.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493053156_3bcc9ba31b_b-1.jpg

Ok, here's where I made my mistake. I've been doing this write up exactly as if I were narrating me actually doing the work. I found out that the accessory needs to be attached to the same side of the relay as the On/Off switch so that your radio and cigarette light works. Make sure you can splice it together with the On/Off wire, NOT the ground, otherwise the radio will never turn off.

Also, at this point, if you want to have your accessories on a separate switch too, you can do that, it'll just be more work. I have it setup so the one switch turns two things on (the car and the accessories).

Before you start putting panels away, attach the switches so you can test all the wiring and make sure it works.

I took some of the modules off of the kick panel and attached the relays to them through the screw hole. This keeps them safer and out of the way, the wires you can just tuck up under the kick panel.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492250179_5237321444-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3493063414_101e3a76d2-1.jpg

Now you need to pop out that blank spot on the trim piece (next to the fog lights). Take this to a drill and drill out the appropriate hole for the momentary switch that runs the starter motor. Reconnect the cruise control and rear defroster harnesses and put the trim piece close to in place. Now you'll want to pull the wires through the holes where the switches will be going. (Sorry, no pictures of this part) You can reattach the trim if you want, it's only four screws, just make sure not to lose the wires behind it. Go ahead and reattach all the wires to the switches. These will pop back in simply by pushing them in (which is why you can reattach the trim piece if you want).

I am tired, so for tonight, that's it. You can modify my design if you'd like, but this was just for people to get a gist of how to do it.


Oh, and here's the finished product https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/3492101361_df47800191-1.jpg

[birukun]

I have to give you props for being creative and documenting this for everyone.

Now that you have the steering lock defeated, you need to add some cool toggle switches -

Accessory

On

And the pushbutton for START

Maybe a green one with some backlighting and some text on front that says 'GO' 'RUN' or 'START' (like industrial fans or tractors maybe?)

Have more fun with it. Just don't use the EASY button or we will all gang up on you and kick you ass. :-)

[frogsthatmoo]

I was thinking about running an accessory switch actually, I don't know, I generally don't use it anyways so whatever. Plus it was less work running the accessory and On/Off wires together on one relay.

[2.5GT]

Great DIY

I think it'll be even a cleaner install if you were to use an actual push button start from a S2000 or off some of the Toyota models.

and it seems like this route is only to start the car. What about turning on to accessory or ON?

[frogsthatmoo]

I guess some people didn't get this because over on NASIOC they have asked similar questions. But the foglight switch actually turns the car On and Off. The foglight switch works does Accessory and Run.


I went with a very nondescript button because I didn't want people to know what the button does. Especially since it is right next to the switch that turns the car on and off.

[frogsthatmoo]

Who wants videeeeoooo :grin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpeXhuBungg

[marklj]

Question:
Do you think the process would be any different with a standard transmission that has to have the clutch depressed in order to start?

[frogsthatmoo]

No it wouldn't be any different, as long as you have the clutch depressed though. This basically mimics you turning the key, so you're going to have to do all the same actions that you would if you were normally starting the car. But it wont interfere with the clutch position sensor or anything.

[TheSiege]

Cool idea but this seems like it makes the car way too easy to steal

Ok, so this is a guide to wire up the fog lights (if you, like me, happen to have none installed anymore)


:smt005

[frogsthatmoo]

Well, it's not much harder to steal the car without this mod. 97 Models don't exactly have any security systems.

And Zues, I meant the fog lights switch :grin:

[TheSiege]

You'd still have to hot-wire the car rather than just push a button, but nobody would ever expect that button to start it. Except for maybe a friend who wants to play a mean joke.

[95USsubaru]

this = awesome. i might have to try this out on my green L

[DonMarcoPolo]

Sweet write-up! Changed it just a little (to keep my fogs usable), but awesome none-the-less!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gUJ0-y6tm4

[frogsthatmoo]

Wow!!!! DonMarco! Well done! That was so clever! Major props for the innovation!

[Matty2Hotty]

Highly doubt it would be the same wiring for the be/BH 00-04s.
Does this mod still work with using the key?

[csweston]

You'd just have to wire it a little different. You could wire it to where the key still turns on accessory but have a push button to actually start it.

[mycargoesvroom]

This is really, really awesome. I may need to look into this just for the "wow" factor. I assume the key still works, it just isn't necessary right?

[frogsthatmoo]

The key works in the sense that you if reattach the the ignition harness to the ignition switch then the key works, but you don't need it. Just to unlock the doors, trunk, or glovebox.

[Lojasmo]

This should be added to the "electrical threads of note" sticky.

Thanks for this.

Edit: as an aside, later year models had handbrake portions with four button blanks. My plans are to add a double switch (bomb switch) and a single push in two of those slots.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/0cca0505-1.png

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/f7961659-1.png

[caoutback]

Gonna have to give this a modified shot. Would like to have my accessories on a separate switch so I don't need my keys in order to play with my windows and also have a push button start. Radio was already constant powered but was redone back to factory spec and I've been too lazy to fix it.