Log in

View Full Version : 2.2l swap will not start?



Drakien
05-06-2009, 02:06 AM
To catch everyone up to speed on my bad luck-
My EJ25 DOHC motor seized. I bought a 2.5l DOHC to replace it and it had rod knock, the company sent me another one, it also had a rod knock, got my money back, went with a different place, got another 2.5l, it also had a rod knock, so I bought myself a 2.2l. I dropped it in, it wont start.

I shoot starting fluid in, it starts then dies right after.
I have replaced the fuel pump, and filter.
I checked the coil, wires, and plugs, all of which supply spark.
Timing is correct.
I have tried both the 2.5 computer and the 2.2 computer.
Tried sensors from both.
Tried the pulleys from both.
I have tried the crank sprocket from both motors.
I am using the wiring harness from the 2.5
The fuel line that comes from the fuel filter goes to the top line on the motor. The other fuel line goes to the side line, and the small line is on the smallest line on the motor.
The Vacuum lines are all hooked up. *Except 1 little tiny one on the back passenger side of the manifold that all the 2.2l at the wrecking yard had plugs in the hole. I have something plugging the line.
My car has a manual tranny. The car I got the 2.2l computer out of was also a manual, however the motor is from an automatic.

I am getting a check engine light. These are the codes pulled-
P0117
Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Low Input
P0115
Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Malfunction

It turns over just fine, but will not start. That is where I am at. I have done everything I could from other threads on not starting problems. I have searched quite a few different forums. Any help is greatly appreciated. :smt009

jey
05-06-2009, 10:34 AM
Make sure your fuel filter isn't installed backwards.

Drakien
05-06-2009, 02:55 PM
The one that says out on the fuel filter is going to the engine. So I think that is on right. Thanks for the suggestion :grin:

decke48
05-06-2009, 03:44 PM
the one coming from the fuel filter is on the top. return line is second down. evap is third down.. sounds like fuel problems. can you heard you fuel pump running?

Drakien
05-06-2009, 04:25 PM
Yes I can hear it running, its alot louder than the one that was in it. The lines are hooked up correctly with how you said.

Drakien
05-06-2009, 08:06 PM
Check engine light is Fixed! The Coolant Temp sensor had a snapped wire, so I fixed it up. Now there is no CEL! :smt023

But still no start. Then after trying to start it, the fuel pump wouldnt prime, with the ignition in the on position. So I turned it off, and it started to prime..continually...without stopping. So I unhooked the battery, and took the fuel pump back to Autozone as being faulty. I am going to get a fuel pump from Subaru next paycheck and go from there.

Drakien
06-19-2009, 04:12 PM
Alright, So I swapped in another fuel pump assembly from a '97 Outback. You can hear it prime. Still not working. I checked the resistance on the Injectors they all were 11-12 ohms. I also checked the resistance on the Cam and Crank sensors, and both are close to what the repair manual says.

Any other suggestions?

Okin DaVanh
06-19-2009, 05:57 PM
Check for Kinks in the line from the multiple swaps??? Maybe a clog in 1 of the lines as well?? :dontknow:

hink01wag
06-19-2009, 06:19 PM
would that engine swap into a 02 outback?

Drakien
06-21-2009, 02:18 AM
I am not sure on the 02 Outback thing, but I bet it would. The 02 being the SOHC then you should be fine doing it as long as the sensors are all the same. *As far as I am aware. I wouldn't take my word for it, but I am sure it has been done before.

As for the kinked lines. Negative. Me and a mechanic buddy of mine spent 6+ hours trying to diagnose this.
Our results were very interesting and mind boggling.

We started testing the wiring harness for power, and also sensors and injectors for resistance. Injectors and sensors all had the resistance stated in the Repair Manual. This is where it gets mind boggling. There are 3 main plugs that go into the wiring harness for the manifold and everything hooked to it. The top plug (smallest), middle plug (middle sized), and the bottom (Largest). With all the plugs in we tested the sensors to see if they were receiving a signal. They were not. We unplugged the bottom plug, and we started getting signals to the injectors and sensors. We also got fuel pressure, but with that bottom plug plugged in, we had no power anywhere. We went over the wiring Schematics over and over for both the 2.2 and the 2.5 and came up empty handed. With all 3 plugs in we tested straight from the pin-out of the computer, and no power. But with that bottom plug un-plugged we got power at the computer. We decided to unplug every sensor and anything that plugged in passed the 3 main plugs, one by one, to see if we would find the culprit. We unplugged everything except 3 things with no luck. The 3 things we did not unplug were, One plug under the manifold on the passenger side, it is a blue plug that plugs into a little box with 2 or 3 small vacuum lines coming out of it, and then also the ground that is bolted under the manifold to the block, and last is the engine coolant temp sensor.

What we are guessing is that something is telling the computer something it does not like, or something is not completing a circuit. We have no idea what the something is, but it is definitely something electrical and not fuel related. What we are going to do at a later time is un-hook everything and trace each wire one by one and make sure the right wire is going to the right plug, without any broke or burnt wires. "Sound fun?"

I am still up for suggestions on what I should look at or check. I am almost tempted to take it to a dealership and have them check it out and fix it. I just don't want the bill I would get after they fix it.

I am just so mind boggled about this. :smt021

Benfolio
06-24-2009, 05:02 PM
I did the reverse of this swap and I have only one suggestion because it's the only thing I noticed that was different on my car (although I don't know why it would cause the electical issue you found).

The brownish colored solenoid on the right strut tower on my 2.2 wagon had ONE vaccum line running to it, yet my 2.5 had TWO lines going to it. I had to swap the solenoids to hook 'em up right, but never tried it without. You mentioned you had the one vaccum line plugged, and maybe that's been the culprit all along?

Drakien
06-24-2009, 06:24 PM
Alright thanks for the suggestion. I have 2 lines going into it. There is another line that my 2.5 didn't have. So that is why I plugged it. I put the other lines where they were with the 2.5

chuckthefuk
06-24-2009, 07:00 PM
Helped a friend do a EJ25D swap into a EJ22 harness (brighton). He had the same problem as you and turns out it was a dirty harness. All the connectors had to be cleaned and she fired up with ease.
-Chuck

Drakien
06-25-2009, 12:36 AM
Ok cool! I Will take everything apart tomorrow and try it out! Thanks!

Benfolio
06-25-2009, 09:42 AM
What year car is this EJ22 out of anyways?

Drakien
06-25-2009, 03:23 PM
'95 Legacy. I got it because it had the dual exhaust port and also the EGR. So I wouldn't have conflicts. lol

Benfolio
06-25-2009, 05:06 PM
Ut oh. I wonder if it's OBDI and not OBD II......

Drakien
06-25-2009, 10:04 PM
Would that make a difference if all the sensors and everything are off the 2.5?

Benfolio
06-26-2009, 03:57 PM
Hrm. Don't think so unless something with the cam or crank triggers are different. I didn't notice you are using the 2.5 sensors and harness.

Drakien
06-26-2009, 05:21 PM
Yeah everything is the 2.5 except the cam sprockets/pulleys. I am going to get an OBD II 2.2 harness next week and try it out and see if it makes a difference. There is definitely something making the computer drop power when that bottom plug is plugged in.

1-3-2-4
06-26-2009, 06:44 PM
95 Legacies are OBD II

Drakien
06-26-2009, 06:54 PM
Cool, thanks for verifying that. :smt002

Drakien
07-03-2009, 07:07 PM
Just another quick question. When I start turning the engine over there is a clicking sound from behind the dash *one of the relays* Does that mean it is bad? If so, would that keep it from starting without starting fluid?

jey
07-06-2009, 01:40 PM
Relay are supposed to click.

Drakien
07-08-2009, 08:37 PM
Alright. Sounds like I am going to have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership. :(

Drakien
07-31-2009, 05:13 PM
Changed my mind, bought a running '97 wagon with the 2.2 in it for $700. I am going to swap that over and if I need to the wiring harness also. (But I shouldn't need to) :smt026

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/259/gedc0053.jpg

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/7897/gedc0054.jpg

Benfolio
08-06-2009, 09:19 PM
Looks nice for $700!! :shock:

Drakien
08-18-2009, 04:16 AM
Thanks. So me and a friend swapped the motor over and wiring harness. *Taking apart the dash was fun.

Now it starts and runs, just very rich. So I have a bit of work to do still. :) But at least it runs! :D

massdrewski
08-29-2009, 11:51 PM
So do you think it had to do with the wiring harness its self? or maybe a "dirty harness"?