Brake Ducts?

[gryffinwings]

Looking to figure out how to install brake ducts onto my 2001 Subaru Outback, what materials do I need or can use, and some form of instruction. Haven't found much information on this for the BE/BH chassis.

[2.5GT]

You won't be able to find much info on your car with this type of device.

Basically, you're going to have to fabricate your own brake duct. Look over on Nasioc for more info. Some Impreza owners just DIY their own brake ducts.

[hink01wag]

here is one just look it up on google

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspensio ... setup.html (http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-handling/90383-04-brake-duct-setup.html)

[rougeben83]

Did this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/06/P1040843-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/10/P1040845-1.jpg

To be paired it up with these from Quantum motorsports (wrx ducts)

http://www.quantummotorsports.com/picts/impreza2.jpg

Biggest issue with any brake ducting is routing the 3" piping like so:
http://www.quantummotorsports.com/picts/impreza1.jpg

With the removal of the dust shields, you will be exposing your tierod boots to dust and heat, a cause of potential premature wear. You'll need to cover them up with some high temp heat shield wrap.

[2.5GT]

Those WRX ducts looks to be fitting pretty good. Was it direct bolt on to our cars?

[Okin DaVanh]

Those WRX ducts looks to be fitting pretty good. Was it direct bolt on to our cars?


I would say yes, since the WRX caliper brackets (certain years) fit our cars.

[gryffinwings]

And if I recall correctly the Outback starting from 2001 got the same 11.4" brakes that the I believe the WRX uses and is the same that the 4-pot brakes use. So yes they should definitely work for mine and others with the same caliper I believe.

[KAG]

I've found it to be somewhere around 2002 where they started giving the LGT & Outback the WRX sized front brakes, so you might want to check on that.

The quickest way to tell is to just look at the bracket: http://i40.tinypic.com/or3zb7.jpg

10.7" have the straight bracket
11.4" have the curved or arched bracket

[rougeben83]

well the important thing to ask here is why do you feel that you need brake ducts? Not a lot of guys run ducts on the street, it's really not something you want to have to take care off on a daily driver (sheared duct tubing, ingested leaves, tierods exposed to dust etc.).

I put off doing the whole thing on mine simple because it was just one more thing that I'd have to maintain.

[gryffinwings]

I've found it to be somewhere around 2002 where they started giving the LGT & Outback the WRX sized front brakes, so you might want to check on that.

The quickest way to tell is to just look at the bracket: http://i40.tinypic.com/or3zb7.jpg

10.7" have the straight bracket
11.4" have the curved or arched bracket

I already know I have the 11.4 inch brakes, did a brake job already and I have a 2001 Subaru Outback and your information is wrong, they started putting WRX sized brakes on the Subaru Outback in 2001, I've done my research thoroughly.


well the important thing to ask here is why do you feel that you need brake ducts? Not a lot of guys run ducts on the street, it's really not something you want to have to take care off on a daily driver (sheared duct tubing, ingested leaves, tierods exposed to dust etc.).

I put off doing the whole thing on mine simple because it was just one more thing that I'd have to maintain.

The main reason is because I already have problems with overheating brakes with aggressive driving mountains, especially Palomar Mountain here in Southern California, I figure cooling the brakes will help a lot, and if you want to avoid ingesting leave just put a metal screen over the inlet, and to protect the tierod boots you can just use silicon grease or something to protect from dust, of course that could be messy but it could work and sheared duct tubing, eh... the tubing isn't really all that expensive.

[KAG]

I already know I have the 11.4 inch brakes, did a brake job already and I have a 2001 Subaru Outback and your information is wrong, they started putting WRX sized brakes on the Subaru Outback in 2001, I've done my research thoroughly.
Meh, I'm not too worried about it. I know for sure the LGT definitely didn't get them until 2002/2003 as I've seen more than just a handful of 00-02's with the 10.7". Don't see many Outbacks though so I'll take your word for it. (EDIT: and apparently Joe Spitz's too :razz: http://www.cars101.com/outback2001.html#new)

Back on topic, I'd really like to see you follow up on this. I was thinking about using the 03/04 foglight covers like Ben has for this but decided I'd rather have my projector foglights instead :lol:

[rougeben83]

I put off doing the whole thing on mine simple because it was just one more thing that I'd have to maintain.

The main reason is because I already have problems with overheating brakes with aggressive driving mountains, especially Palomar Mountain here in Southern California, I figure cooling the brakes will help a lot, and if you want to avoid ingesting leave just put a metal screen over the inlet, and to protect the tierod boots you can just use silicon grease or something to protect from dust, of course that could be messy but it could work and sheared duct tubing, eh... the tubing isn't really all that expensive.

Don't use silicone grease, it won't do anything, use heatshield material like they use to wrap manifolds and turbo blankets to cover the tierods. Real brake ducting is not cheap; It's about $10-15/foot. You'll need around 5 feet per side. I think you're talking about the laundry dryer ducting that's made out of thin aluminum - if you're going to be doing any sort of aggressive driving expect to replace these on a consistent basis.

Have you explored all of the other usual suspects to upgrade your brakes? pads, fluid and braking technique will definitely help.

[gryffinwings]

I put off doing the whole thing on mine simple because it was just one more thing that I'd have to maintain.

The main reason is because I already have problems with overheating brakes with aggressive driving mountains, especially Palomar Mountain here in Southern California, I figure cooling the brakes will help a lot, and if you want to avoid ingesting leave just put a metal screen over the inlet, and to protect the tierod boots you can just use silicon grease or something to protect from dust, of course that could be messy but it could work and sheared duct tubing, eh... the tubing isn't really all that expensive.

Don't use silicone grease, it won't do anything, use heatshield material like they use to wrap manifolds and turbo blankets to cover the tierods. Real brake ducting is not cheap; It's about $10-15/foot. You'll need around 5 feet per side. I think you're talking about the laundry dryer ducting that's made out of thin aluminum - if you're going to be doing any sort of aggressive driving expect to replace these on a consistent basis.

Have you explored all of the other usual suspects to upgrade your brakes? pads, fluid and braking technique will definitely help.

The last thing to do is the Brakes which I have Axxis Ultimates that I will be trying out in the front, rears I'm keeping a Premium Centric Pads, still have those in the front though too. I have Valvoline Dot4 fluid, BFGoodrich SS lines, half way down the mountain my pads are usually smoking pretty good. Trust me, the Palomar mountain is the one mountain I have this problem on, because it's really technical, almost every turn is a hairpin.

Actually I wasn't talking about using dryer tubing but what I've seen labeled brake duct tubing, here is a link to what I'm pretty much looking at:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3621

[rougeben83]

I put off doing the whole thing on mine simple because it was just one more thing that I'd have to maintain.

The main reason is because I already have problems with overheating brakes with aggressive driving mountains, especially Palomar Mountain here in Southern California, I figure cooling the brakes will help a lot, and if you want to avoid ingesting leave just put a metal screen over the inlet, and to protect the tierod boots you can just use silicon grease or something to protect from dust, of course that could be messy but it could work and sheared duct tubing, eh... the tubing isn't really all that expensive.

Don't use silicone grease, it won't do anything, use heatshield material like they use to wrap manifolds and turbo blankets to cover the tierods. Real brake ducting is not cheap; It's about $10-15/foot. You'll need around 5 feet per side. I think you're talking about the laundry dryer ducting that's made out of thin aluminum - if you're going to be doing any sort of aggressive driving expect to replace these on a consistent basis.

Have you explored all of the other usual suspects to upgrade your brakes? pads, fluid and braking technique will definitely help.

The last thing to do is the Brakes which I have Axxis Ultimates that I will be trying out in the front, rears I'm keeping a Premium Centric Pads, still have those in the front though too. I have Valvoline Dot4 fluid, BFGoodrich SS lines, half way down the mountain my pads are usually smoking pretty good. Trust me, the Palomar mountain is the one mountain I have this problem on, because it's really technical, almost every turn is a hairpin.

Actually I wasn't talking about using dryer tubing but what I've seen labeled brake duct tubing, here is a link to what I'm pretty much looking at:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3621

your pads are not good enough. That's core of your problems. Ultimates have an aggressive initial bite but they are still formulated as a street pad. Theyre great for things like autox where pedal modulation and initial bite are more important than repeated braking from high speeds, but WRX owners can easily fade these pads even on regular roads.

Switch to hp+, bobcats, or something with an equivalent heat range in the front and ultimates in the rear keep a little more brake bias in the rear (while not needing to put as much heat in the pads). Then see if you'll be needing the ducts.