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GT Wagon
12-04-2005, 09:36 AM
This is a head unit (radio, cd deck, dvd player, in dash screen...) install write-up based on a MY97 GT Wagon. It should still be directly applicable to all BD- 95-99 Sedans and BG/BK- 95-99 Wagon. The general concepts will also apply to any car as many parts (such as the cage for the head unit) are nearly identical on Japanese cars.


Basic tools required:

Screwdrivers (Phillips, 1 Stubby and 1 with long shaft)
Crimping tool
Small Plastic box: to keep screws from getting lost

Accessories required:

Head unit (DIN or double DIN)
Butt connectors
Wiring harness (specific to model year)


Total time required: 2 hours taking my sweet time not to break anything and double checking my wiring is correct.

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 10. It is possible to screw up the wiring if you are not careful. See previous point.

This is what I started with, your typical boring factory head unit. I'll be replacing it with an Alpine 9815.

http://img492.imageshack.us/img492/696/01stock1js.jpg

To get at the head unit you must remove the trim panel which surrounds it. The panel is held on by four phillips (+ pattern) screws. Two at the top and two at the bottom. The top screws are hidden behind the cup holder.

http://img438.imageshack.us/img438/1680/02cupholderscrews8cv.jpg

The right hand side screw is not accessible with the cup holder in place. To remove the cup holder pull it out all the way then press down the button at the middle back end and pull.

http://img425.imageshack.us/img425/4445/03cupholderbutton6qa.jpg

Here's a better picture of the screws you will be removing once the cupholder is removed.

http://img425.imageshack.us/img425/6296/04cupholderscrews23zr.jpg

Once the screws are removed you will need to remove the housing for the cup holders. Do this by re-inserting the cup holder and locking it, then pull the cup holder back out. The housing will slide out with it.

http://img425.imageshack.us/img425/4403/05pulloutcupholder4pu.jpg

To remove the radio trim panel from the bottom it is necessary to remove the trim along the transmission hump. You may be able to force the panel past the shifter trim without taking it latter off however its also possible you'll break something in the process and getting it back in will be difficult at best. This step is so easy there's no point taking that risk.

The center trim is made of two pieces, front & rear. The front is held down by the rear piece which must be removed first. Open the arm rest and remove the two screws, remove the rear trim.

http://img425.imageshack.us/img425/1727/07handbrakescrews5xf.jpg

Unscrew the shifter knob then remove the front trim panel.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/3743/08centerconsole7uf.jpg

Back to the center console radio panel. The bottom screws holding it in are located behind the coin tray. Pushing down slightly, pull it towards you.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/3096/09cointray0ml.jpg

Remove the two phillips screws, you'll need a stubby screwdriver to get at these.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8357/10coinscrews6ra.jpg

At this point the center trim panel is ready to be removed. You'll need to remove it from the top then from the bottom rotating towards the right. The 12 volt outlet needs to be rotated for it to come out. I fail to see what logic Subaru had with this one. Prior to removing the panel you'll need to unplug the + and - wires from the 12volt outlet, they just slide right off.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/674/11trimpanelrotate0zq.jpg


Now its time to remove the cage and the radio. Remove all four screws.


http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6009/12cagescrews2al.jpg

You'll notice the cage is now loose but doesn't come out. Ah HA ! Subaru also has two more phillips screws burried deep back in the dash, one on each side. You'll need a screwdriver with a long shaft for this one. Be prepared to lose both screws unless you have a magnetic tip on your screwdriver.

Pull the cage towards you, the radio will still be connected in the back by the power/speaker harness and the radio antenna. Subaru in their wiseness does not include much length, you'll have to reach back there and undo it with your fingertips.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/4792/13cagescrewsrear1yn.jpg

At this point you should be staring at the radio harness. This is what you will plug the aftermarket wiring harness into unless you enjoy splicing and soldering all the wires manually. When the time comes to sell the car and you want to put the factory deck back in you just need to remove the aftermarket harness and plug the factory deck back in.


http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/3097/14subaruharness1yf.jpg

Next step is to connect the wire harness to the wires coming out of your deck. This Alpine headunit has the ability to unplug its wire harness for ease of install. Yours may or may not have this feature. I've opted to clean up the wiring using two sided velcro tape to keep it neat and prevent random wires from snagging behind the dash causing problems down the road.

Here's where taking your will save you headaches after the install. Carefully read the legend on the wire harness (usually printed on the bag it came in) and the legend on the head unit (or the manual). Not everyone uses the same colours to indicate power/ground/speaker + and - wires. Make sure you are connecting the right wires together otherwise some speakers may be out of phase, not work or worse you'll short your deck out. This section of the install is not where you want to rush.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5305/15wireharness4ju.jpg

All wired up and ready to go. I chose to use butt connectors as I very well may change the headunit down the road. It will save me from cutting wires. If you know you'll never change that headunit you may opt to solder the wires.

Never ever connect wires using electrical tape unless its an emergency to get you home. As moisture & dirt get into the tape it will eventually come apart and you risk losing a connection or shorting out a connection.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5070/16wireharnessdeck9ve.jpg

The factory deck is held in the cage using 4 screws, two per side. Unless you want to remove the pocket below leave those screws in place. It will keep the cage togeather as the cage is really just two side pieces of metal.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5895/17deckmountscrewscage1lc.jpg

Undo the screws and slide the deck out. Install your new deck the same way. All decks should have screw mounting points on the sides to mount the deck to a cage. If you're coming from German cars you'll notice you will not need to use the head unit's metal cage or the trim surround. Both will need to be removed prior to install if they are already on the deck. Make sure not to install the deck backwards, again take your time.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1069/18alpineincage0go.jpg

Back to the car, plug in the wire harness and make sure it fits properly.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8233/19wireharnessplugged0sb.jpg

This is the time to test your connections before you install the deck in the car. You'll notice my deck is not in the cage, it doesn't really matter if you test it with/without the cage. Its just force of habit to verify my wiring as soon as its done.

Turn on the head unit, check for power, set a radio station and turn the power off then back on. Verify the radio station preset is kept. If not you've reversed the power/switched power leads. Using the balance and fader controls verify each speaker works and correctly corresponds with the decks settings for front/rear/left/right. You'll find out at this moment if your wiring has any mistakes or if there's a broken connection.

Here's where my use of quick connect butt connectors comes in handy. They are matching male/female connectors which can easily be unlpugged allowing for a quick fix. I didn't have any such problems :D

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2928/20testdeck9te.jpg

Now lay the wiring warness neatly back in the dash with only enough lead to connect to the head unit. Cramming the wiring in as you install the deck can lead to wires being pulled loose immediately or down the road.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2990/21cleanwiring8jq.jpg

Attach the wiring harness and radio cable to the head unit. If you are using external amplifiers this would be the time to connect the RCA cables as well. Again, before you put the screws in verify the head unit properly works and nothing has come loose during install. With that confirmed replace all four screws. If you haven't lost the two rear screws for the cage like I have put them back in place.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5619/22cagealpinemount2lu.jpg

The rest of the install is the reverse of uninstall. Replace the radio trim panel. Don't forget to attach the 12 volt socket leads as you roate the trim back in place. Replace the coin pocket and install the bottom screws only over the radio trim plate at this time.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/329/23trimbackon5cf.jpg

Slide the cup holder tray back in place. Again, remove the cup holder leaving its mounting plate in place and fasten the upper two screws. Then slide the cup holders back in place. Replace the trim over the shifter assembly and fasten down the rear screws. Put the shifter knob back on.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2919/24cupholderbackon1cs.jpg

At this point you should be done. You should not have any extra screws or parts. Turn the radio back on, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour.




http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6776/25finished4vo.jpg

Wiscon_Mark
12-04-2005, 04:06 PM
EXCELLENT writeup! :D

Superu264
12-28-2005, 04:16 PM
great writeup and pics! Im less worried about my install now :roll:

ivwarrior
12-28-2005, 06:21 PM
A couple points.

1) Not necessary to remove the cupholder from the housing to get to the screws, just pull it out partially and you can get to the right screw. Left one is easy with it pulled out fully.

2) If you're careful, you CAN get the front trim panel off without removing the trim panel around the shifter. I just did mine to add in my XM.

3) Circuit City (and likely other places) have harnesses that take the wiring out of the equation. You buy 2 cables, they plug together. One is vehicle specific the other radio specific. Plug them together, plug the proper end to the radio and the other to the vehicle and you're done.

Superu264
12-29-2005, 12:52 AM
A couple points.

3) Circuit City (and likely other places) have harnesses that take the wiring out of the equation. You buy 2 cables, they plug together. One is vehicle specific the other radio specific. Plug them together, plug the proper end to the radio and the other to the vehicle and you're done.

Im hoping thats what I ordered, I ordered the harness from Best Buy so we'll see.

GT Wagon
12-29-2005, 08:28 AM
A couple points.

1) Not necessary to remove the cupholder from the housing to get to the screws, just pull it out partially and you can get to the right screw. Left one is easy with it pulled out fully.

2) If you're careful, you CAN get the front trim panel off without removing the trim panel around the shifter. I just did mine to add in my XM.

3) Circuit City (and likely other places) have harnesses that take the wiring out of the equation. You buy 2 cables, they plug together. One is vehicle specific the other radio specific. Plug them together, plug the proper end to the radio and the other to the vehicle and you're done.

:-)

1) Yes, the left screw is easily accessable however you'll be undoing the right screw at an "off-angle" and could possibly start to strip it.

2) Ditto as per above, you can take the shortcut but not everyone is patient enough to do it slowly. The problem with those two shortcuts is you risk breaking something. The extra steps I take to remove those parts only adds maybe 2 minutes.

3) I'm not really sure what you're getting at. I've done exactly that, purchased a wiring harness adapter specific to the car. The "radio specific" harness comes with the Alpine or whatever deck you've bought. If you mean they make an "Alpine specific" wiring harness that plugs into the Metra harness that's news to me. In any case I'd rather use the Alpine harness and save a few $$. It doesn't take long to splice and connect.

ivwarrior
12-29-2005, 09:53 AM
3) I'm not really sure what you're getting at. I've done exactly that, purchased a wiring harness adapter specific to the car. The "radio specific" harness comes with the Alpine or whatever deck you've bought. If you mean they make an "Alpine specific" wiring harness that plugs into the Metra harness that's news to me. In any case I'd rather use the Alpine harness and save a few $$. It doesn't take long to splice and connect.

The harnesses I'm talking about eliminate the splicing together wires. They have plugs on each end. One end of harness "A" plugs into the radio. One end of Harness "B" plugs into the car. The other ends plug into each other.

For many people splicing wires isn't a big deal, but for others it's the difference between DIY and "pay someone to do it for me". I just wanted to point out for those people that "plug-n-play" harnesses are available, you don't have to splice wires. Granted, you will pay a little more for them, but it does shave a good bit of time off the total install time.

Oh, and whatever you do, PLEASE don't use wire nuts to do the splicing. It's just not right and looks ghetto. Wire nuts are for solid wire, not stranded automotive wires. Keep 'em for the house wiring. The person who put the radio into the Outback I just bought used wire nuts and I'm tempted to completely re-do it so it's right.

Superu264
01-04-2006, 05:49 PM
how did you get one that's plug-and-play? None of the harnesses I found for Subarus were like that.. I also work with a guy that did installs at Best Buy and he told me Subaru's are, and I quote, "the gayest cars to install head units." Just more to love about the Legacy :-D

ivwarrior
01-04-2006, 07:36 PM
how did you get one that's plug-and-play? None of the harnesses I found for Subarus were like that..

Circuit City had them in stock. Granted, I didn't ask what models/years they had coverage for, but they had one for my 97 Outback in stock at my semi-local store. (30 miles away, but it's the closest CC, and just a couple blocks from the closest BestBuy)

Oh, and by "gayest" I assume he means "easiest"......I've done a few, and had radios out of a few other makes/models for one reason or another, and Subaru is, by far, the easiest I've dealt with.

Superu264
01-04-2006, 08:29 PM
thats odd, everywhere I went said they would have to order and nothing like what you're talking about.. oh well go figure

and by "gayest" he meant it was the hardest.. he told me all the guys would b*tch and complain if they had to do a subaru because they were annoying.. but who cares, so itll take me 20 minutes longer.. no biggie

GT Wagon
01-04-2006, 09:34 PM
and by "gayest" he meant it was the hardest.. he told me all the guys would b*tch and complain if they had to do a subaru because they were annoying..

Those guys are in the wrong business :D Seriously its an easy car to work with. I have only two complaints and they're not even major

1) In the 91 the radio antennae cable is super short and ends down by the driver's foot. You have to buy a radio cable extension. That was stupid.

2) In the 97 the factory harness is short enough that you cannot pull the radio out past the dash with the harness attached. This just makes it a pain to plug in.

I've installed plenty of decks in plenty of cars, Subaru's are EASY. There is a TON of room behind the deck to store all the cables and power boxes, those guys are whining about nothing.

You want hard, try and install a deck in a VW MKIII. Unless you take most of the dash apart you cannot get your hands behind the deck. There is barely any room behind the deck to fit the wire harness, let alone all the new RCA cables. It usually takes me 3-4 tries to properly seat all the wiring.

Superu264
01-05-2006, 04:59 PM
yea we'll see, BestBuy itself is being "gay" atm because my harness was supposed to come in on the 3rd but it still hasn't come in and their not expecting it in the truck tonight :x its so depressing to see me HU just sitting in the box..

Superu264
01-05-2006, 05:02 PM
ivwarrior what year is your's?

ivwarrior
01-05-2006, 06:37 PM
ivwarrior what year is your's?

Currently, I have 2 Outbacks, both 1997s. One already had a "XM ready" CD player in it when I got it, the other, I had Circuit City do the install because they were doing free installation. It was cold, and I figured my time was worth enough that it wasn't worth doing myself in the cold, if they would do it free. I did later add XM to both, myself, and know the units are easy to get in/out.

Previously, I've installed CD players in my '90 Legacy, and '93 Impreza wagon. I think the Legacy, I might have had to reroute the Antenna wire, but can't remember for sure. I've never needed to buy anything other than the wiring harness for a Subaru head unit install though. (Unlike a lot of other cars that need mounting brackets, etc) I can't remember that far back, I may have even done one in my old 80something GL wagon, that was my first Subaru....

Yeah, and anyone who thinks Subaru radio installs are difficult should really find a different line of work, before they run into ones that truely are difficult. :D

Superu264
01-16-2006, 11:28 PM
just to give an update..

after a bunch of BS I finally got the harness from BestBuy today. Total instal time was maybe 45 minutes including taking apart/putting together the dash. I connected the two harnesses together with some butt connectors and everything worked out great. Write up was exact. Thanks.. extremely easy project

shazapple
01-18-2006, 08:22 PM
Heres my little writeup on my stereo install
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/486027/6

Its pretty easy to put in new speakers as well. You can use all the stock mounting equipment

blueb3
07-25-2006, 12:44 AM
GT Wagon - YOU ROCK!! I just installed my '05 WRX headunit using your write-up. I now have a slight rattle in the dash though, I dropped one of the recessed screws :oops: Oh well, it all works though.

And in case anyone wonders, the process is exactly the same, minus the new wiring harness, this baby is plug and play.

GT Wagon
07-25-2006, 08:20 AM
Thanks ! That's not too suprising that the WRX install is relatively the same. I recommend you pick up one of those "magnets on a flexible stick" or whatever the technical word is for them from your local parts store. Its helped me find many a dropped screw.

blueb3
07-25-2006, 11:20 PM
I ended up fishing it out later while cleaning the 10 years worth of spilled gunk around all the dash trim.

Tim
09-08-2006, 05:47 PM
I read over this whole thing before I ordered a radio. I went to Circuit City and Best Buy. Neither has a brand specific plug that will plug into the subaru stereo harness and both suggested I go online. I can find the subaru harness, but not the other part people say on here is available. I have tried to splice before and I know I will ruin the wires. Anybody know where I can order both pieces for my 97 Subaru Legacy L wagon?
Thanks

Wiscon_Mark
09-08-2006, 07:13 PM
Circuit city definitely does have a Subaru specific one (it's where I got mine). I believe any Legacy/Impreza/Forester plug (maybe not 05+) will work.

You may be mixed up, why don't you give us a link of said harness? If it's for a Subaru, then it plugs into the car's harness, and you can just splice up the wires from it to your aftermarket deck (which is totally easy, both the adapter and the stereo give you clear instructions as to what goes where).

Tim
09-08-2006, 07:18 PM
I realize I can get the subaru harness at CC. I thought I needed the other side, but have been informed that comes with the radio. My point is that I didnt want to splice wires. I have tried to do it before and just end up screwing it up. According to the posts above, I thought that there was a way to do it without splicing wires. Too late now, I order the damn radio.
Thanks

Wiscon_Mark
09-08-2006, 07:22 PM
Splicing wires is not hard, with a wire stripper, and some decent quick connects, and if you really want to do a great job, a soldering iron.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2006/09/200072JPG-1.jpg

+

http://www.ark-les.com/Images/quick-full-tab(c8qua2).gif

and maybe

http://www.action-electronics.com/grc/we-sp80.jpg

+

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/photos/rapid/solder.jpg

It's not hard at all. If you have questions, PM me :smile:

Tim
09-13-2006, 10:37 AM
Well, everything has gone well so far. I didnt have to splice. But I am putting it all back together and cant get the piece of trim that goes around the radio on. Seems the raido is too wide by about an eighth of an inch. Any suggestions? I mean the Subaru gray trim, by the way, not the piece that comes with the radio.
Thanks

BlueMan0312
09-13-2006, 10:50 AM
you could always cut a little bit out of the trim so the head unit wil fit...

Tim
09-13-2006, 07:39 PM
I did trim the trim just a little. It worked, although I dont like doing that much. Radio looks good and is working fine. Thanks for everybodys help

warrior
09-26-2006, 09:31 AM
..and if you REALLY want to get PROFESSIONAL.. after you solder, slide on some shrink wrap over it and you'll have the cleanest most professional head unit install :cool:

PJ2277
10-15-2006, 12:04 PM
Can you swap the position of the radio and the empty storage pocket? I just had my stereo installed a few months ago and with our great drink holder I can hardly see the screen.. Has anybody swapped the postion to put the stereo on the lower portion?

thanks for your feedback

Wiscon_Mark
10-15-2006, 12:11 PM
I have. It works, they're easily swapped and they bolt on fine in the opposite position.

PJ2277
10-15-2006, 12:16 PM
perfect thanks...!

JordanIsHere
11-10-2006, 05:21 PM
I did a head unit install when I first my got my car a few months agp. Everything went fine but, the Sony head unit I installed has the antenna jack on the opposite side of the deck, and the stock antenna wire won't reach. Anyone know where I can get an extension or something? I don' t listen to the radio very often, but it would be nice to have it working... and I plan on swapping it underneath the dim pocket so I'll have it apart anyways.

Thanks.

drano
11-10-2006, 06:25 PM
I did a head unit install when I first my got my car a few months agp. Everything went fine but, the Sony head unit I installed has the antenna jack on the opposite side of the deck, and the stock antenna wire won't reach. Anyone know where I can get an extension or something? I don' t listen to the radio very often, but it would be nice to have it working... and I plan on swapping it underneath the dim pocket so I'll have it apart anyways.

Thanks.

should be at best buy or circuit city. i think walmart even has an extension

Wiscon_Mark
11-10-2006, 11:33 PM
Yeah, any of those 3 places would do it.

JordanIsHere
11-11-2006, 12:38 AM
w00t, I will hit up best buy tomorrow.

Thanks fellas.

drano
11-19-2006, 11:02 PM
ahhhhh....i finally got to put my old stereo in the outback. i have an alpine cda9852 with an ipod cable....i havent been able to listen to my ipod in my car for a looooong time.

i was very happy to see that the stock sub worked when i turned on the stereo for the first time after install. ill put pics up soon of where i had the ipod cable go to. i like the placement very much. its coming out of the little pocket beside the e-brake (i have an auto) nano's fit perfectly in there :cool:

TheSiege
02-20-2007, 07:23 PM
I installed my stereo a while ago, but I can't make the trim fit over it correctly :/

TheSiege
11-13-2007, 12:50 AM
Well, everything has gone well so far. I didnt have to splice. But I am putting it all back together and cant get the piece of trim that goes around the radio on. Seems the raido is too wide by about an eighth of an inch. Any suggestions? I mean the Subaru gray trim, by the way, not the piece that comes with the radio.
Thanks

I am having the same problem, but I don't see the need to trim. Everything appears to fit fine, yet the trim doesn't fit flat any more. :?

LegacyGT97
08-18-2009, 12:16 AM
Great write up!
I used this to help me do my head unit install today. I swapped the position off my pocket to the top and love it. my aftermarket cd player was about 1/8 of an inch to wide, so I had to set the pocket out more then the cd player and my faceplate just fits perfect width wise in the opening.

easy install over all, just got frusterated with the cd player being just a little to wide. Looks great though!

DonMarcoPolo
10-15-2009, 03:05 AM
+1 on a great writeup! I just finished installing my new Pioneer headunit with the greatest of ease, thanks to this! The only problem I had was already mentioned 2 other times, and that was the trip piece not being wide enough, but I took care of that with a butane lighter, diagonal cutters, and a large flathead screwdriver. Aside from that, it went very well...and why the heck DID they make it where you had to rotate trip piece to get past the 12v? wierd.

bangedlegacywagon97
12-29-2009, 09:17 PM
Off topic,
OP I noticed the seat heater switches were in a non OEM location. Did you get after market heated seats or OEM? Was the wire harness already there? Any relays you had to wire up?

chris_2.5gt
01-08-2010, 08:35 PM
hey guys just did the wiring for my head unit and I'm having a problem. The cluster lights and A/T selector lights are not light up. can someone tell me where the two wires wht/grn and yel/blu connect? I connected them both to the ilumination wire for the radio lights but I have feeling one is maybe a return to the dash lights? Also the radio lights work.

oinn
05-15-2010, 12:08 PM
i need to remove the cigarette lighter from a T reg 1998 legacy estate car

RawlessLorth
04-22-2013, 03:45 AM
Is it possible to re-up some of the pics that are not showing up?

Cleck
12-09-2013, 02:41 PM
^^Would be helpful.

Also, any harness wiring guides? I looked at the links posted for wiring diagrams but can't find any. Trying to figure out why my headunit is creating excessive draw and if I had/have a sub/amp in my wagon.

Edit: my stock head unit did have excessive draw, so I yanked it. For now, swapping in a radio from my other car I'm not driving, but I could REALLY use a picture showing the brackets and how the HU mounts, right now that's where I'm stuck in figuring out if I need a din pocket and something else or just that.