Removal of rear caliper bracket bolts? Tips? (00-04 BE, GT)

[frogger]

I'm in the middle of swapping out my rear brakes. Removing the calipers from the brackets was no problem. What I'm having trouble with is removing the bolts holding the caliper brackets to the backing plate.

It appears the mutli-link rear suspension design requires a special knuckle layout that makes it much more difficult to get to these bolts than on other Subarus. The bolts are pretty much covered by the knuckle and there's very little space in between. To get to the bolts, you have to use a socket extension and pass the socket/extension though cutouts in the knuckle assembly. And then there's the problem of finding space to get some leverage.

What I'm using so far:
1/2" ratchet (breaker bar won't fit)
Socket extensions
Galvanized metal pipes to put over the ratchet handle for leverage
Liquid wrench
Propane blow torch

How did you do it? Any tips, tricks?

[frogger]

Figured it out. Used a 10 inch socket extension and a metal pipe over the ratchet handle and it went pretty easily.

[rsm05sublegfixer]

Along the same lines of "access to work", about a year ago, I was trying to find a way to support working under my Camaros without having to wind my way physically around the necessity of using Jack Stands while deep under the vehicle and doing so much pulling and tugging when breaking hard-to-reach or difficult bolts loose and worrying about having the cars drop on me. What I came and came up was a solution I call "Car Stackers".

Essentially, they consist of sections of brand new, treated 4"X4" treated fence post lumber sections that are cut into 8" to 12" lengths, then wrapped individually and completely in Duct Tape. Then after laying these segments out two at a time and positioned flat and level and side-by-side, I joined them together on either end with sections of oak wood stripping about 1" X 2" in dimensions and secured the two segments together using two strong carbon steel screws on either end. This essentially forms a very durable, strong and sturdy rectangular platform. I realized that I could stack these one upon the other like opposing Lincoln Logs (or Leggos, if you prefer) and by using pairs of these, I could achieve a high degree of stability, especially when positioned on top of and within the support grooves of a pair of extra wide truck ramps. These worked wonders after being properly positioned under frame members and afforded me a much greater peace of mind while I was clambering around in and out from under my Camaros and doing a complete LS1 Brake Conversion for the first time in years with a much greater degree of freedom and safety. I had succeeded in finding a way to very quickly jack and support my cars and eliminate the worry of Jack Stands slipping when I was under my cars.

Recently, I purchased a 2005 Subaru Legacy and soon discovered a similar problem of not having stable points where Jack Stands would fit and support the car when elevated without making those creepy, creaky noises as soon as a breaker bar or other tools were in play. Enter my "Car Stackers"... in particular, for working under the rear section on the brakes (and facing the same problem you did with difficulty in gaining access to the bracket bolts hidden by the rear suspension knuckles) I found that by placing the truck ramps with the sloping end towards the front wheels and cross mounting a pair of "Car Stackers" atop each perfectly, after elevating and positioning these ramps/stackers just right, I was able to lower the Legacy atop these supports and they fit perfectly, giving me an uncommon access and height while working on the rear brakes... both outside and while under the vehicle.

Please understand that I took great pains in selecting new treated lumber that was straight and square, without any defects and used several rolls of Duct Tape to ensure the "stackers" were sealed from weather and water elements and adding additional strength before final assembly. So if you decide to try this out (at your own risk) make sure that you don't attempt to use just any old lumber that's been lying around in your back yard. If poor quality wood were to be used, even when wrapped in all that shiny Duct Tape cocooning, they could crumble under the weight of the vehicle and you would be no safer than if you were when using ill-placed Jack Stands that tend to slip. If you would like to see images of these "Car Stackers", please visit my public photo bucket site here and you'll find them in an album called "engineassemblytools". I hope this proves helpful... Please just be certain that you make your own out of quality materials and assemble them "square"... Good Luck!

(They also make Great Wheel Stops (Chocks)...too!)

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19 ... MBLYTOOLS/ (http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/ENGINEASSEMBLYTOOLS/)

-==Bob==--

[frogger]

Good tip, thanks for sharing.

I used concrete cinder blocks on all 4 corners with 2"x10"x10" pieces of wood stuck between the car and the blocks so that the car wouldn't be resting on bare concrete.

My pneumatic hand pump jack doesn't really go as high as I would like. Even at its highest, I have difficulty creating enough space under the car to use a breaker bar effectively. I can only get about 15-20 degrees of motion and leverage is significantly inhibited (sometimes I use my legs to push on the bar).

[Payback45]

I am right where you were and I dont see how to get the bolts off. It is way to tight to get any of my tools in there and like you I have no leverage

[dodik]

i think ill be doing some work on the car this weekend ill look into it, i know it didnt take me too long nor did i use special tools when i did rotors last year. dont really remember but ill take a pic of how i did it. i know for sure it all came apart pretty easily.

[rougeben83]

There's a hole thru the hub by which you can get a socket through to get at the bottom caliper bolt if you don't have an offset box wrench.