2.2 n/a mods

[jfoster91]

what are good power gains that can be seen with this motor? cams? :cool:

[hallowpoint]

cams yes, theres a few places that do them. but just an ebay intake and exhaust will make it little more peppy. there not a hole lot to do without forced induction.

[seattlelegacy2.2]

cams yes, theres a few places that do them. but just an ebay intake and exhaust will make it little more peppy. there not a hole lot to do without forced induction.

I was just reading that thread of the $20 dollar ebay intake hose swap. do you need to do the exhaust also so the air going in proportion to air going out is the same? for proper backpressure? How much of the exhaust do you have to change to utulize the intake? muffler? header? pipe? I always thought that too much exhaust, in proprotion to intake, is not good? thanks for any answers,
Nate

[hallowpoint]

^^well anything you do to help the engine run more efficiently is going to gain you power. so intake will help the air flow in and exhaust will help it flow out more efficient. so headers and a muffler as far as piping try to stay in the 2'' range for an n/a engine.

[anothernord]

Look here:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11403 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11403)

Otherwise, you're not ever going to make a significant amount of power with bolt-ons for the 2.2. If you really want to dive in, your motor will hold ~5 psi of boost nicely.

[seattlelegacy2.2]

Look here:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11403 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11403)

Otherwise, you're not ever going to make a significant amount of power with bolt-ons for the 2.2. If you really want to dive in, your motor will hold ~5 psi of boost nicely.

Hey, thanks for the link anothernord. Looks like most of the fundamentals are covered, with specifics that apply to suby's. Ok, I have been on dodgecharger.com for years, sold my '68 440 Charger last summer, now I am just sticking with my new legacy, which I love, my 87 bronco, my ford work truck, blah blah.
As I read all that, a couple notions. In mopars, well, muscle car basics, as you move the power curve up the rpms with a big lift cam, and bigger intake and exhast, you really need to put in a higher stall converter. (In the trans, this is like a clutch for an AT trans, lets the rpms get up into power band before applying power to the driveshaft). Also, you pretty much lower the rear differential gears. freeway gears in rear end are "tall", allow for higher freeway speeds at lower rpms. low gears in differential means acceleration and fast reving of engine. so basically, you can put in a cam/intake/exhaust set up, high end power, (like stage 3 cam in suby) and then make use of it with a higher stall in trans. (3000 rpm come on, ) and low gears in differential. this is basics of making a muscle car accelerate.
My question is: the only way I can think of that would be the easiest thing to do would be to put on smaller diamater tire size. I didn't read anything in there about stall converters or gear changes in differentials. I assume this isn't done much on a subaru, and probably could be for major dollars. but they aren't drag cars anyways, right? but building up these motors and making them unstreetable because of loss of low end, would smaller diameter tires be a simple way to lower the ratios ? Does stage 3 with small tires get you closer to streetability driving as staying in the stage 2 or 1 arena and keeping the original tire size? if more acceleration from a stop is desired, daily driving, you say stage one or 2 is practical, but could you offset stage 2 or 3 unstreetablility with smaller diameter wheels? higher rpm power band and more hp with lower gearing in essence. does this make sense? sorry I talked so much, I don't know, just kinda brainstorming.
Nate

[anothernord]

Smaller tires will give you better acceleration only up to a point, because soon you will be shifting gears so often that the added acceleration just isn't worth it. Smaller tires are just giving the engine more leverage on the wheels, and the car as a whole.

IMO, a better option would be to keep the stock diameter, but go lighter wheels, and flywheel, this will free up rotational mass and reduce the amount of mass that needs to be sped up in the whole system, making for more efficiency and acceleration in those low gears. I heard somewhere that every pound taken off the drivetrain is equal to about 100 pounds of vehicle weight in first and second gears.

[jey]

You aren't going to experience enough gains in cams and bolt-ons to require any modifications to your gearing or transmission.