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View Full Version : WTF Alternator problem



ShadowGT
08-22-2009, 07:23 PM
Here's the dealio my friends, sorry I haven't been around lately.

CEL isn't showing anything, it comes on during the light check at engine ignition but turns off. No stored codes according to Scantool

Saw a little smoke coming out of my hood scoop after driving the car around doing errands. Popped hood and saw that the Alternator rubber / plastic lead wire cover is melting and burning.

Positive battery terminal is corroding at unusual rate but I keep thoroughly cleaning back to new.. and I even replaced the lead positive battery to starter wire twice just to be safe. Had to solder the accessory power to fuse box wire.. but that's fine.

I have disconnected all things aftermarket to be sure.. all 4 rally lights are disconnected from the battery, the dual 12v outlet in the asstray is disconnected from the battery. Power leads for the lighted switches for the rally lights (two switches / 4 lights) are disconnected from the battery.

Alternator still melts the remaining bits of insulation, becomes really hot with a clean positive post on the battery, everything tighter than a virgin for wiring connections and belts..

New battery? It's ancient but works, shows 12v solid on the multimeter. The alternator is original.. 1998 with 147659 miles.

Any advice would be helpful. I have to drive the car like this.. it sucks because it's my daily driver.

EDIT______------------------------

F- it, I'm going to get a reman'ed alternator. I think the voltage regulator is out because now that I think about it..
A lost a few LED's in my cluster.. can't see the odometer anymore at night. The recirc switch on the HVAC works or doesn't work sometimes..
I'm having a few snarky electrical problems that work or doesn't work sometimes. The alternator has been the bane of my existence with that car for awhile. I'll just get another.

1-3-2-4
08-23-2009, 09:45 AM
I was going to suggest the voltage regulator as well.

decke48
08-23-2009, 01:18 PM
check your battery is grounded good. bad grounds = high amp consumption

ShadowGT
08-23-2009, 09:49 PM
I think the voltage regulator is in the alternator. At least one set of instructions shows to pull the alternator apart and unsolder the VR and resolder in the new one. It's a cheap part, the one I found on eBay 18 dollars.. then I found one new for 200 dollars but it looks different, either way it all points at new alternator in one way or another. The one I have is original vintage 1998 and it looks like crap now.

I do need to go check grounds because I had to fix grounds when I first got the car and put the motor back in... the ecu was acting up badly and all things electronic went awry. Fixed some grounds at the firewall, redid the ones at the strut tower and the one under the driver kick panel.. all worked well.

The battery is second hand but ancient as well.
Hey this is the dwindling list of things I need to replace to have an awesome car.

98outbackpdx
09-17-2009, 04:36 AM
my bros have a 99 sus and the cheapest alternator was from the subaru dealer. this was about 2-3 years back, but the subaru part was about $80 and napa was about $150, so i went with the subaru, really pays to shop around

d1giPhux
09-17-2009, 07:56 AM
I wouldn't pay more then $40 for an alternator. Just get a re-maned one from a junk yard.. i'm sure they have plenty!

jey
09-17-2009, 04:14 PM
Some auto parts stores offer lifetime guarantees on alternators. If you keep the car a long time this can really pay off - never pay for an alternator again.