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View Full Version : Moved from a 92 BC to a 98 BK; My Impression, Your Thoughts?



Soul Shinobi
08-27-2009, 03:58 PM
Introduction:
It's sadly time to put my 1992 Legacy L Sedan (BC) 5MT (271,000 miles) to bed, and in pursuit of practicality (well actually it was just $300 so I couldn't say no) I've pick up a surprisingly-pretty-good-condition-for-the-price 1998 Legacy L Wagon (BK) 5MT (204,000 miles). And then I rebuilt the engine. It will probably fail catastrophically. So needless to say this isn't the car of my dreams and I don't want to dump a whole lot of money into it, but I certainly have some plans and goals in store (what I'd really like is a 1999 Legacy L wagon in good condition, first year of the phase II 2.2L, last year before the chassis gained 300 pounds).

http://home.comcast.net/~subrosa135/car/98_001.jpg

Driving Impressions:
On to business. Now I threw that '92 BC around a lot in the snow (my favorite pastime!) and in the rain. My friend who happens to own the same '98 BK that I do now always wanted to drive it. There's nothing special about it, he just liked how it felt. I now know what he was onto; this '98 BK is soft. It's not god-awful, in fact it's nice that it's quieter, but there's definitely less chassis communication to the driver. The average guy is pleased by this perhaps, but me? I'm scared.

I took the BK down a downward on-ramp in the rain as I have my BC, and where the BC's rear end would step out gradually; letting me know by a change in vibration in the rear; the BK holds traction. Fine, it's got a rear sway bar, the freakin' BC didn't (which I must say taught me to balance the car's weight well). But when I push the BK a little faster, then the rear steps out. I didn't feel it. I though I felt something, I'm not sure; but I sure as hell saw it as the car began to rotate.

Maye it's the tires, maybe it's the alignment? Surely it's tweaked a bit when the car was $300 from some New Hampshire woodsman. Well indeed the front tires are worn and the rear's are different and near new, but setting the pressure 36/34 F/R should keep things predictable. As for the alignment, it's likely tweaked, but even so my BC's alignment is fucked, so I know how to handle that, that's not the issue; the car isn't talking to me.

Similarly, in the dry, I plowed into an upward off-ramp at speed in the BK, moderate braking, turn, a little tire squeal, and copious understeer; and scarier still is that again I had to see it before I felt it significantly. In my BC I could feel the tires straining under pressure, not a lot but I could, and in the same situation the turn in would have been sharper and the weight shift more complete on the BC.

Plans:
For starters I planned to some chassis reinforcement. Front and rear strut braces, I might shell out for the Whiteline rear with quick-release. Ideally I'd be putting good bushings in all-around, but it's just not worth the work right now, especially for this rusty BK. Endlinks all-around and a rear sway bar are planned, as well as steering rack bushings. Most importantly I need to do more to make the rear end talk to me. I don't want NVH (noise vibration and harshness) to take a leap, but a small increase is fine. So I assume that means that locking down the rear subframe is out of the question, but are there subframe bushing kits? Strut tops? This is where I need some help, I'm not sure where to go with mods. What do you guy think?

Thanks for reading. :grin:

Huffer
08-27-2009, 04:17 PM
You went from a lightweight sedan to a tail heavy wagon. You gained weight, wind resistance, and cargo space. It's got a lot more sound deadening and the suspension was tuned specifically for commuter comfort.

Soul Shinobi
08-27-2009, 04:43 PM
To my surprise this BK wagon is only about 50 pounds heavier than my BC, and mind you the BD sedan is actually 100 lbs lighter than my BC; these figures all apply to the AWD L models.

track8
08-28-2009, 11:46 AM
My car handled like crap when I got it too. I gained a bit of feedback doing the urethane steering rack bushings. Find an Outback rear swaybar, 4 matching tires, good struts (maybe springs too, they helped mine more than anything else) and an alignment. These things helped a lot, so much so in fact that I've considered doing a track day with it.

I think Group N has top hats for BK's, I need some soon. Good brake pads and S.S. hoses helped a bunch too.

Soul Shinobi
08-28-2009, 01:22 PM
After much thinking and looking around my mod list looks like this so far:

Step 1, getting things straight:
-Brake pads and rotors (need them bad and rotors can effect alignment)
-Tires (alignment again)
-Steering rack bushings (Might effect alignment)
-Rear subframe lockdown bolts (seems it doesn't increase NVH as much as I thought)
-Alignment
Cost: ~$480

Step 2, reinforcement:
-Whiteline quick-release rear strut brace
-eBay front strut brace (I already have it)
-Stiffer pitch stop
-Whiteline Front of rear diff support lock
Cost: ~$230

Step 3, handling:
-Endlinks front and rear
-Rear swaybar
Cost: ~$200? (easy to find used so hard to say)

jey
08-28-2009, 01:47 PM
Tires. Your average highway all-season tire is designed to be quiet and do the job without transmitting any feedback to the steering wheel. Get some good tires on there and you'll know what the car is doing.

Soul Shinobi
08-28-2009, 02:27 PM
I'm sure that you're right about the tires, and I just looked into it a bit. I'd like to go with a good set of tires but it's just a bit too much money right now; something like $230 vs $350 for tires, mount and balance, and a four wheel alignment. The reason my first option is so cheap is because I'll be getting tires from a reputable used tire warehouse that only sells tires with 80% tread or more.

Soul Shinobi
11-06-2009, 01:39 AM
Update time. The following mods have been installed:

-Steering rack bushings
-Front of rear diff support lock (outrigger bushings)
-Stiffer pitch stop
-Tires

Install Pending:
-Rear subframe lockdown bolts
-Alignment
-Cusco rear lower arm bar
-Shifter bushing

Purchase Pending:
-Brake pads and rotors
-Whiteline quick-release rear strut brace
-Endlinks front and rear
-Rear swaybar


So after installing the mods I have, the differences aren't large. I was hoping that good tires and playing around with pressures would make a bigger difference but the car still understeers at the limit. It's better, but not great. I think the rear end stiffness of my old sedan with rear strut brace helped a lot (even though it lacked a rear sway bar!). A rear strut brace may take precedence over brakes for me (just having good tires helped my braking more than I expected anyway).

As for the alignment, I actually went in for one when when I had the tires mounted. Long story short they told me everything was rusted and that they could only zero out the front toe for me. I made a post about that here (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16072). They're giving me 30 days to get things loose and they'll try again at no charge. I think I'll try to loosen the rear subframe to get my custom lockdown bolts in before I go back. In the mean time I'm giving all the suspension parts PB B'laster therapy.

track8
11-08-2009, 11:17 AM
I can tell you that the non-plastic rear swaybar endlinks will improve roll resistance a bit. Mine did, for sure. Not a whole lot but definately more than placebo-effect.

Thinking of making a rear strut brace, all the wagon specific ones I've seen seem kind of yucky. Let us know which one you get and your impression of its effects.

LunchBox04V
11-08-2009, 05:57 PM
Yeah my first mods to my '99 BK was the alloy end links, sway bars, and strut tower braces. Again they all helpped a little, but there was still a little understeer on throttle, coming off throttle did a nice weight shift and gained oversteer. I had a '93 BC L and I know what you mean about making it "step out." lol

I also did the tire pressures like yours, higher in the back and that seemed to make it close to nutural. Though I have the 18-22mm adjustable Whiteline rear sway bar. : )