Time for a brake job. Advice?

[Payback45]

I have had my car since around 42,000 miles now at 87,000 miles and in that time I haven't had to change the pads or rotors yet, I feel it is time because the pedal is getting a bit soft and it just feel like it is time. There isn't any noise saying it is time but it couldn't hurt to do it.
What do you all recommend when it comes to pads and rotors? OEM, aftermarket, drilled, slotted ect?

Also, I have bigger rims now so can I get bigger rotors and maybe 4 pot calipers?

Also, what are the benefits of 4 pots?

Thanks guys

[MyogiNightKid]

I have had my car since around 42,000 miles now at 87,000 miles and in that time I haven't had to change the pads or rotors yet, I feel it is time because the pedal is getting a bit soft and it just feel like it is time. There isn't any noise saying it is time but it couldn't hurt to do it.
What do you all recommend when it comes to pads and rotors? OEM, aftermarket, drilled, slotted ect?

Also, I have bigger rims now so can I get bigger rotors and maybe 4 pot calipers?

Also, what are the benefits of 4 pots?

Thanks guys

Recommendations :
1) Grammar. It's "brake" not "break" :lol:
2) Pads go for EBC or Hawk
3) OEM Rotors if the current ones can't be turned (machined)
4) 4-Pots only if youre making big big power to justify a 4-pot setup's ability to stop you in a hell of a hurry. Or if you like track days. 4 pistons per caliper mean significantly more stopping force than the 2 piston per caliper setup I'm guessing you have from the factory.

No problem :smt023

[Payback45]

Do I need to touch the brake fluid if I am changing out pads and rotors?

[jey]

I like Axxis Ultimate pads but they are very dusty.

Just top of the brake fluid. Though if you have a squishy pedal it's more likely the problem is you fluid needs to be changed.

[MyogiNightKid]

Do I need to touch the brake fluid if I am changing out pads and rotors?

You do not. You may want to check your brake fluid color in the reservoir under the hood. If it's blackened enough (instead of red or gold) it might not be a bad idea to flush the system though.

[Payback45]

I have changed pads before but never rotors, Is it an easy thing to do?

[rougeben83]

I have changed pads before but never rotors, Is it an easy thing to do?

remove the two big bolts (17mm) instead of the little ones so you can get at both the rotors and pads at the same time.

[d1giPhux]

+1 on the axxis ultimates.. now known as Axxis ULT. They are SICK pads. Tons of dust.. but man they are great. The bite in the cold is awesome.. and the bite when they are really hot is great as well. Plus.. cant get anything better for the price. If you don't want as much dust.. you can get the Axxis Deluxe.. or whatever they are called now.. its one step under the ULT's.. but they are good as well! I would say def get these over the EBC and the Hawk or w/e

[Payback45]

Anyone else like axxis pads?

[Payback45]

I have decided to go with Hawk Pads for front and rear now it is the rotors. When it comes to just blank rotors do you guys have any advice or preference? Like the Brembo blanks Vs a cheaper brand. Will I feel a difference? Or only see a difference in my wallet?
I know I want drilled rotors for what ever performance they provide and appearance but they are pricey and I am kind of on the fence about them.
Also, would it matter if I only got front drilled and the rear blank?

[slaytalera]

I have decided to go with Hawk Pads for front and rear now it is the rotors. When it comes to just blank rotors do you guys have any advice or preference? Like the Brembo blanks Vs a cheaper brand. Will I feel a difference? Or only see a difference in my wallet?
I know I want drilled rotors for what ever performance they provide and appearance but they are pricey and I am kind of on the fence about them.
Also, would it matter if I only got front drilled and the rear blank?

brembos are a waste, most people here just get Napa Premium from what ive seen. Drilled is more for looks now days, it used to be functional when pads used to "gas out" but you wont get that with most modern pads, especially the hawks pads

[Payback45]

why are they a waist?

[Grafton]

why are they a waist?

yeah i would like to know as well, the brembo blanks are almost the same price for me as the oem's @ advance auto

[rougeben83]

why are they a waist?

yeah i would like to know as well, the brembo blanks are almost the same price for me as the oem's @ advance auto


Because Napa/autozone rotors cost about $35/ea. At the end of the day, rotors are consumables, and there's really no difference in how often one or the other will "warp" (bedding in the pads is more important here), or change braking performance on a street driven car. Even one that's "aggressively" driven.

[Huffer]

I have the Brembo blanks on the front. What I like about them is they have a "dimple" in the rotor that when it is gone, you change the rotor out. No need to wait for the screeching. They were a bit more expensive, but they are solid cast with great vents. They also seem to be a little more resistant to the rust build up around the top/outside of the rotor.

On the rears I run the cheapest Autozone rotors, $35 each. But I run Hawk HPS pads all around.

Honestly, it doesn't matter if you run the cheap rotors all around, just bed your pads in properly and you'll be good to go. You CAN pay more for a brand name but you should make sure it's for a reason (ie. something tangible like rust-resistance or wear indicators or great heat dissapation).

Drilled/slotted rotors aren't necessary on a daily, unless you are canyoning every morning to work (I wish I was!).

[Payback45]

Thanks for all your advice. I went with Brembo Blanks front and rear and Hawk HPS all around.

[lozanoa11]

Good rotors are not always a waste. At the dealer i work at we have no problems with aftermarket rotors on gm's but on the hondas they do not like them. They warp quicker and cause squeaks even with honda pads. Some cars like them others don't.
Drilled and sloted rotors are a waist for a street car. The holes can crack and i have only experianced brake fade once on the street and i was beating the hell out of the brakes.

[Payback45]

I am changing my rotors and pads today and it has been quite a fun day. I finished my right front rotor and pads in no time but the left (driver side) is giving me a headache. It took me over an hour and a trip to walmart to get off the last rusted bolt so my caliper would come off and I could get the rotor off. When I did the right side the rotor just slipped off left side it isn't moving an inch. Am I missing something here or is there a higher power at work here?
How do I get it off?
BTW I am in a 02 Legacy GT
I have pulled the crap out of it and it just sits there and laughs at me.

[AkumaMax]

I am changing my rotors and pads today and it has been quite a fun day. I finished my right front rotor and pads in no time but the left (driver side) is giving me a headache. It took me over an hour and a trip to walmart to get off the last rusted bolt so my caliper would come off and I could get the rotor off. When I did the right side the rotor just slipped off left side it isn't moving an inch. Am I missing something here or is there a higher power at work here?
How do I get it off?
BTW I am in a 02 Legacy GT
I have pulled the crap out of it and it just sits there and laughs at me.


A Good old Sledge hammer is your friend. Tap on one side, Move the rotor tap on that side then repeat with as much force as needed and it will come loose.

[Payback45]

I ended up using 8" screws to get it off.
I am done with the front brakes now I am tackling the rear. First thing I see is how in the world do I get the rear calipers off? I got the pads off with no problem but to get to the bolts that release the rest of the caliper are to tight to get any of my tools into to get them off. Especially the bottom one. There is just no room for anything.

[rougeben83]

I ended up using 8" screws to get it off.
I am done with the front brakes now I am tackling the rear. First thing I see is how in the world do I get the rear calipers off? I got the pads off with no problem but to get to the bolts that release the rest of the caliper are to tight to get any of my tools into to get them off. Especially the bottom one. There is just no room for anything.

You need this:

http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/Photos/tools/lectrolite_db2022_3003_wrench_offset_f_cropped_inset2.jpg

Conversely, I've used a 14mm socket with extension and a u joint with good success.

[Payback45]

What would you call that type of wrench?

[Huffer]

Offset box wrench I believe.

Make sure you clean off as much rust as possible behind the rotors (on the hubs) - that's why your one rotor was sticking. I also slather the area with brake grease.

[Payback45]

Well I gave it the old college try this morning and it just aint happing. I bought the offset box wrench and i was able to reach the dreaded bolt and I thought I was having a bit of luck when the top caliper bracket bolt came off rather easy. Then it came to the bottom and it just wouldn't move. For one I think I stripped it a bit and two I just don't have any leverage. They couldn't have made that bolt more inaccessible if they tried. Nothing takes more time that trying to get a rusted bolt off.
So for now the rear rotors will have to wait until I can take it to a lift and try it that way. Thanks for all the help guys.

[jamal]

short socket and an extension?

[Payback45]

no room for a socket

[Huffer]

Soak the bolt in PB blaster. Heat it up a little to work it in there.
Get a cheater bar (hollow pipe) big enough to slide over your wrench, and use the extra leverage.
OR
Link another two or three wrenches together like so (wear eye and hand protection):
http://g-typeracing.com/engine/removelsd/pics/03.jpg

[rougeben83]

there's enough room, I've used my 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet on both caliper bolts. Like I said, there's a hole in the hub for the lower bolt that will allow you to get a socket onto the bottom bolt. You may need a U joint and extension but there is certainly ways to get a longer lever on those bolts.

[d1giPhux]

+1 on the heat.. use a blowtorch and torch that fucker.. it will come off. If you stipped the hell out of it.. might need to use pipe wrench or something.. if it will even fit.