high output alternators?

[jzignig]

Anyone know who sells high output alternators for a 98 gt?

Im looking for at least a 200 amp.

But i cant find anything except custom jobs ranging from 400-800 dollars.

And i dont want anything fancy, used would be even better yet if its cheap. haha

Im poor. 'nough said.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

[1-3-2-4]

I've never seen one :-/

[impreza_GC8]

I heard a rumor the STI alternator was higher output than our stockers. You might want to look into that.

[)2edline]

WHAT A COINCIDENCE. I HAVE ONE I DON'T WANT. lol

I have an STi Alternator with a adapter harness to splice into the stock alternator wiring. I'll take a picture for you... I think its rated at like 95A?

[jzignig]

Hm, not as high of an output as i would ideally want, but itd prolly make a small difference.

Could you pm me the pics? or just put it in the post, if i dont want it maybe someone else does.

Thanks=)

[Grafton]

the stock legacy one is 85 amps, and the 06 Sti is a 90 amp one, if i may ask what are you needing this high output alternator for?

[Bookem]

You would have to have a massive stereo/lighting/electrical to need 200a, there is a place that will make alt that high of an ouput. http://www.ohiogen.com/, I think it would have to be custom, and big $ (around $500 and up) thy are who the big stereo competition guys go to. If it is stereo equipment that you will be running, and for horter eriods of time you would be much happier running more bateries than a high ouput alt. If you have any ?'s on stereo/electrical stuff don't be afraid to ask me, I used to be a competitor myself back 7-8 years ago.

[jzignig]

Yeah, This will be for my system...

I have a 15" RE audio SX's powered by a hifonics bxi1210D in a 4.6 cubic foot box tuned to 32hz, two 12" RE SR series in sealed fiberglass 1.2 cubic foot boxes powered by an older(ish) jbl 400 watt 2 channel, one 10" kicker comp in a sealed 1 cu.ft box right behind my center console (ill have to take pics for you guys) powered by an older hifonics amp, and finally a hifonics TXi 6408 4 channel for my mids and tweets.

AND of course monster cable 0 gauge to the cap and monster 4 gauge to the amps. Big 3 also upgraded to 0.

I made this set up out of the system from my old truck and some spare speakers i had in the shop, but i made it fairly clean.
It sounds VERY nice and crisp though from the wide array of sizes.

I should be drawing somewhere ideally around 150-160 amps, but i figured 200 would be a nice generic number for an alternator.

I'm an electro-mechanical engineering major, so i know a fairly decent amount of stuff. My dream job is working for a sound research company or an acoustic research development lab. that'd be nuts!=)

Also BOOKEM, glad to know theres so other audiophile in this forum. What is your take on my setup? Im between battery and alternator. Id like to get both but im strapped. and im underpowering everything horribly without my trucks alternator. too bad i cant rig that puppy up to the leggy=/ haha plus i miss showing up everyone on campus;)

[jzignig]

OH and i wanted to add that this is by no means for competition, I commute 80 miles a day, and i love having my bump, so it wouldnt be for short bursts, it would be for extended, fairly high volume play.

[Bookem]

One other possibility would be making room and brackets for a second alternator. I've never seen it don in a Subie, other compact cars usually remove power steering pump, not a good idea in a dd with an 80 mile commute. I don't remember all the details but if I remember correctly you just need a diode between the two excite wires (smaller positive) betwen the two alternators. I have gotten kinda rusty on my stereo since moving up here, a lot more comps in Texas than in Nd, Mn, but I'd first try a second battery, my last comp sysytem I had 4 12"s all with seperate 4 Phoenix gold 750 watt amps, I made more gain with 1 battery than 23 farads of capacitors ( one 3 farad and one 20 farad, now caps do help some on the hard hits but you would benefit way more with batteries and a shut off solenoid between the two batteries ( let me know if that's the route you'd go, the best solenoids to use are from a Freightliner semi, and half the price they sell at parts stores, you have dealers in Lancaster, Harrisburg, Leesport an Asland all within 30 miles of Lebanon, Pa!).

Also my experience with mixing subs, normally with two different brand names and or models they don't sound as well due to the fact the frequencies fight against each other but if they sound good and that's hat you have stick with it. Subies don't have the greatest grounds, that's another reason you'd see big gains with batteries and running both pos and neg cables, and go bigger than 0 gauge. Even if you do a high ouput alternator or two sepereate alternators down the road, having two batteries will take a load off the alts and they will last a lot longer since they have somewhere to store energy in.

[Grafton]

well there is room next to the ps pump for one to hange there it would be a matter of custom brackets, like the super charger guys do

[97LGT]

iraggi used to make a 180 amp alternator, but i don't see it listed on ebay anymore. you could probably email them and i'm sure they would produce.

[jzignig]

Thanks for all the input guys! I might reconsider the alternator for a second battery.
I would definitely get away cheaper. As i said, i had a high output in the s10, and just a yellow top in place of the factory battery.

Next year i start a nicely paid internship so maybe ill be looking into both the alternator and battery? who knows.

Bookem, I'll have to keep in touch with you. I like talking to people who know from experience rather than the stigs at the shops who only know from "what the box says"

Might have to go shoppin next paycheck=)


Also thanks for the ebay tip off 97LGT=)

[rougeben83]

MY93-MY98
All models: 75 Amp

MY01-MY02
WRX: 75 Amp
STi: 75 Amp
2.5RS: 90 Amp

MY04:
WRX: 75 Amp
STi: 90 Amp
2.5RS: 75 Amp

MY05:
WRX: 75 Amp
STi: 90 Amp
2.5RS: 90 Amp

MY06:
WRX: 90/110 Amp
STi: 90 Amp
2.5RS: 90 Amp

MY07:
STI: 110 Amp

per subaru manual...there seems to be a mid-model year change on the turbo ej25's to the 110amp alternators...

[ScaryFatKidGT]

wow I wana run like 2 10" 500 watt or 2 15" 750 watt alpine subs with Type-R speakers front and back at 100-110 watts RMS per channel but all this electrical info just went over my head.

[jzignig]

Now i have a few more questions.

Whats everyone's opinion on a good old yellow top compared to a power cell type, such as the Kinetik ones?

In other words:

Yellow top primary battery and yellow top in the trunk.

OR

Yellow top primary and kinetik powercell in the trunk? I think the kinetik i was looking at is rated at 1600 amp.

And if anyone knows off hand what the largest model of yellow top that will fit in the subie's factory spot, I'd love the info.


Thanks, again. :grin:

And if anyone ever has any questions about anything as far as building enclosures or whatever, I'd be more than willing to help. Hell, If you live near me stop by the shop and ill help you build the damn thing. haha

[Bookem]

I have had great luck with all Optima batteries, I used a yellow top up front in my Suburban, another yellow top in back for the endurance and a red top in back for the power to hold up on the quick bursts. But everything I am hearing from people still in the know, Optima has been staying the same on quality while Kinetik is impressing many customers and making them happy. If it's an issue of dollars then get what you can but if buying new I'd go Kinetik

[anothernord]

If you can fit a supercharger onto an engine, you can definitely fit another alternator in there. Its just a matter of getting some metal and pulleys.

There's always the option of sticking a smaller pulley on your alternator to make it give more juice. That probably wouldn't last in the long run though.

[Grafton]

If you can fit a supercharger onto an engine, you can definitely fit another alternator in there. Its just a matter of getting some metal and pulleys.

There's always the option of sticking a smaller pulley on your alternator to make it give more juice. That probably wouldn't last in the long run though.

where would i get a smaller pully i would like to get rid of the annoying "dimming" that happens when i go to idle

[anothernord]

If you can fit a supercharger onto an engine, you can definitely fit another alternator in there. Its just a matter of getting some metal and pulleys.

There's always the option of sticking a smaller pulley on your alternator to make it give more juice. That probably wouldn't last in the long run though.

where would i get a smaller pully i would like to get rid of the annoying "dimming" that happens when i go to idle

Just take your pulley to a machinist and tell them to make a smaller one. It probably won't cost more than $100.

[jey]

If you can fit a supercharger onto an engine, you can definitely fit another alternator in there. Its just a matter of getting some metal and pulleys.

There's always the option of sticking a smaller pulley on your alternator to make it give more juice. That probably wouldn't last in the long run though.

where would i get a smaller pully i would like to get rid of the annoying "dimming" that happens when i go to idle

Dim lights at idle are often a result of poor grounding actually - are all your electronics stock?

[ben g]

If you are drawing 160A from the alt you for sure need a 200A, alts are only made to safely handle 80% which a 200 would be exactly that.

[Grafton]

If you can fit a supercharger onto an engine, you can definitely fit another alternator in there. Its just a matter of getting some metal and pulleys.

There's always the option of sticking a smaller pulley on your alternator to make it give more juice. That probably wouldn't last in the long run though.

where would i get a smaller pully i would like to get rid of the annoying "dimming" that happens when i go to idle

Dim lights at idle are often a result of poor grounding actually - are all your electronics stock?

no, JDM lights wired into the stock harness, but its not just the headlights that dim the interior lights dim as well

[jey]

GIve the ground contact points a good cleaning - over the years rust and junk builds up between the contacts.

[LunchBox04V]

^+1 I need to clean my ground points too. It is a little off topic, but thought I would ask here. I am trying to figure out standard amp load on the alternator before I add some lights. I am planning on running JDM headlights, USDM fogs(55w), and PIAA driving lights(85w). I figured that with high beams on (120w total/ 10amp), fogs (110w total, 9.6amp), and the PIAA Drivign lights (170w total, 14.2amp) would give a total draw of 33.8amp.

Using the 80% rule mentioned above, that would give a safe rating of 60amp on my MY99 alternator. So.... With the lights running at maximum, that would leave a safe extra of 26.2amp. With the other systems running, am I going to overload the system? Any thoughts would be great... Thanks.

I have a mild audio system, nothing that wild at all. Also, can other year alternators be swapped in without issue?.... Thanks for all the help!

[jzignig]

Ideally, lunchbox, you would want to upgrade to compensate for the extra 10 or so amps from the driving lamps you're adding (maybe more with your system, idk what your version of mild is. My version of mild is pretty different from someone elses version of mild :wink: .)

BUT, will everything run ok? Yes.

the only thing that will be hurt in the long run maybe is the life of your alternator, and for that little bit, not by much at all.

I don't feel like looking up what everything factory draws, but from personal experience, my advice is don't worry about it.

Also, consider upgrading your chassis and engine grounds, is does make a nice little voltage polisher. Even 4 gauge would be an upgrade over stock. you could do it very cheap too, less than 30 bucks for 4 gauge im sure. I recommend 0 gauge (or larger) if you plan on upgrading the system at all just to get it done while youre in there. Make sure to get a good clean surface to ground on, and torque it down well.

If anyone thinks otherwise please feel free, but that's my opinion.

[jzignig]

So i found a universal type alternator, but it has plenty of bracket options, If anyone has given these a try id like to know if they need to be modified or not.

220amps... not too bad.

Here's the link http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220

If no one has, then if anyone is curious ill be sure to post how they fit. I'm willing to give it a shot for 300 bucks. But its not going to be for a few months.... So if anyone else is interested ill try to keep posted.

Ill be getting a yellow top and a kinetik powercell once my tuition is partially reimbursed next semester, so im pretty stoked.

Alternator will come shortly after.

Thanks as always.

[LunchBox04V]

Hey thanks. Lol I just read this after I got off the phone with Subie Guys. They said the exact same thing. Slightly shortens the life of the alternator, but not enough to worry. Lol I got a yellow top, and I will clean the grounds and make a grounding kit. Thanks for the input.