2.2l SOHC timing belt

[kevbot]

I'm planning on doing the timing belt on my girlfriend's 1995 lsi, just wanted to post and see if any one who has done it has any pointers. It is a 2.2L SOHC. Looking forward to digging in, thanks for looking!

kevbot

[subyfreak619]

hahah just remember where #1 cyl is because when i did my t belt. i put #3 cyl in tdc position. haha i was younger. but other than that mark, the belt and pulley with white out, then pin the old belt up againt the new belt, transfer your marks, and walla. dont for get to do the cam seals and front main seals while your are in there. o and an eazy way to get the crank shaft pully off is to take your breaker bar and place it on the bolt and resting it on a cinder block under the car on the driver side, unplug your spark plug wires and blip the key. nut is cracked!

[impreza_GC8]

^ Breaking the pulley loose with the starter does work just take extra caution to ensure you do it right, you don't want a break bar flying about your engine compartment.
Depending on the mileage of the vehicle you are going to want to replace some other items as well. When I replaced the one of my 2.5RS I also put a new water pump and thermostat in but I did not replace any cam or crank seals.
If you have the luxury of time you should disassemble it and then take a look at any other components that could be worn before ordering parts but at the very least it is a good idea to replace the water pump and thermostat all at once. I personally would've replaced the crank seal too as it is quite easy to remove once you already have the crank pulley off but hindsight is 20/20 and so far mine is not leaking.
My Outback on the other hand does have a leaky crank seal so in order to replace it I have to effectively do all the required parts for a timing belt change. Therefore I'm going to go ahead and and take it apart and at the very least put a new timing belt on it, if not replace the water pump and thermostat as well. I haven't made up my mind on that just yet because my engine has only 50,000 miles on the build so I don't think a new thermostat or water pump is needed yet.

[lewisd]

with out the cam sprocket tool, is there a trick to keeping the cam sprocket/pulley from turning and if it does will it mess the timing up? Can you safely turn the cam pulley back to marked position? Can you loosen the cam pulleys bolts while the belt is still attached to everything (like the Crankshaft pulley). would that hold them still and work? I've read about clinching the pulley with a piece of timing belt and vice grips. reason I ask is because I plan on replacing the cam seals.

[907bum]

There is a notch in the cam to which a dowl on the pulled slides in so getting your pulley misaligned on the cam "shaft" is hard to do. I recommend grabbing a chilton's manual if you havn't already it has a decent description on how to properly set your timing (there are marks on the cam pulleys and crank sprocket).

I would recommend doing the water pump and cam seals while your in there, might as well since they are buried :).

[kevbot]

Thanks a lot thats all great advice! I have the Haynes manual, so I have a firm idea of the procedure, but the book doesn't tell you what else you should do while your in there!

Thanks again!
kev-bot

[lewisd]

is yours an automatic or manual? let us know how it goes. I'm hoping to wrap mine up by tomorrow.

[kevbot]

2.2l auto

[lewisd]

I have 99 automatic also. I held the crankshaft (pulley)still (loosening and tightening) by putting a long stout screwdriver into the access hole just behind and below the throttle assembly, look at it from the passenger side. catch one of the holes in the flywheel (?). be carefull not to let it press against the throttle position sensor when tightening. Used a breaker bar with 1-2 ft pipe extension. I was able to loosen the cam sprocket bolts at the same time while old belt was still on. for tightening I didn't want to chance the stretching or skipping tooth with the new belt so I tightened the cam sprocket bolts with a craftsman strap wrench (big red one). It held enough for the torque required.

I had all the marks at 12 o'clock but the drivers side cam still rolled back slightly. when putting new belt on I slowly moved it back to position and held belt on pulleys with small clamps. I've seen pictures of some using clothespins. my new belt lines lined up just right and I still double checked tooth count. First time doing this and I'm paranoid. I haven't started it yet, got delayed when I couldn't find the clamps for one of my new radiator hoses.

[lewisd]

finished mine up Sunday. I did the oil pump check and new water pump thermostat stuff to. I pulled the whole radiator out but wouldn't do it again. I had a bear of a time getting to the lower radiator and transmission cooling line clamps next to the radiator. couple were so old rusted they broke so I just cut the lines and replaced hoses and clamps. Figured they were so old anyway. Next time I may just take out the electric fans. It's running fine so far. well, at least till my prior problem resurfaced today. My engine seems to cut in and out while driving at times. after reading other posts, I think I know what may be causing it. I'll address that in my other thread concerning that problem. I'm glad I did the TB now so I don't have to worry about that breaking. I had about 140,000 on that belt. after inspecting it I saw couple bad cracks and where those strands were stretching out. won't do that again. Luck was on my side this time. Good luck with yours.

[subie/legacy]

Any updates on your progress?
I found this DIY with pics for SOHC EJ22 timing belt and water pump replacement.

:arrow: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDoc ... erPump.htm (http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm)
Hope this helps

[kevbot]

Sorry, I haven't done it yet, I've been too busy rebuilding my 2.5l dohc. But, now I know how to do it (after pulling the motor out of my outback, I got it all figured out.) I need to know how to get the cam pulleys off though.
I'm doing the head gaskets on the 2.5l.