View Full Version : Ken's 1997 Subaru Legacy L
LegacyRebuild
10-15-2009, 12:00 AM
Hey there everyone, I live in East Hartford, CT; My name is Ken & my fiance & I own a 1997 Subaru Legacy L. It has over 193,000 miles on it & still runs pretty strong. I've done things to it little by little & I can't wait to start learning from all of you! Here are the pics of what was & what is.
From about 3 years ago to April...
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture159.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
During the summer time (last pic is w/fiance)...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture280.jpg
A few weeks ago/today...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
Since I've been tinkering with it, it has been a learning experience & when I'm done, I'm probably going to wish I never stopped (if I ever do).
The Good:
Outback Rims w/Low Profiles.
Outback Interior (Door Panels & Front Seats).
Outback Front End Conversion.
FWD Switch.
Fog Lights.
Brembo Rotors.
Napa Premium Pads.
Full Synthetic Axle Fluids.
NGK Platinum Spark Plugs.
The Bad:
Struts/Shocks are done.
Rust in rear quarters above wheels.
Rear seat is stock L gray seat.
The Future Mods:
DOHC Head Swap.
MSD Blaster Coil.
Engine Management.
Headers.
4 Inch Exhaust Tip.
Rear Outback/SUS Seat.
Rust Removal.
Full Paint.
Aftermarket Suspension Replacement.
Well, I met heresmymind (from ctsubie.com) & picked up the Legacy GT suspension from him (thanks for the parts!). The springs were painted because I was bored @ the time. I also installed my 2.25 inch exhaust pipe to the 4 inch aftermarket exhaust. This is what the car looks & sounds like so far. Be warned. There is a fair display of automotive flatulence @ hand.
Pics: Rear Shocks/Struts (Didn't know GT's used KYBs. I had also already installed the front assembly)
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture309.jpg
Mufflers: (The stock muffler is obnoxiously heavy & restrictive compared to the new short muffler.)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
The car as it is this moment...
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture310.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture311.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture312.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture313.jpg
These are videos displaying the differences in sounds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4QpnT-dPJc (stock).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtfsOD4VB9A (aftermarket w/silencer).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g37mVkMEArs (aftermarket w/out silencer).
I noticed immediately that the car uses up more gas w/out the silencer on & gets even better MPGs than the stock muffler when the silencer is on. Top end is a little more noticable but the low & mid range are definitely improved. Also, I am planning a DOHC head swap in the future. Most people have told me to just go ahead & buy a EJ25D but since I already have an EJ22E, it'll do. I'm just wondering what ECU I should use with the future hybrid motor. For now though, I just want to tune the engine to give me it's absolute stock peak without having to tear into it. Any bits of advice on how I can do that?
if you put EJ25 heads on it you'll lose loads of power because you'll drop your CR to about 7.8:1
LegacyRebuild
10-15-2009, 12:35 AM
if you put EJ25 heads on it you'll lose loads of power because you'll drop your CR to about 7.8:1
I haven't really decided what I'm going to do yet. I got a message saying exactly what you said about the heads dropping my CR & I got another message from someone else saying that the EJ20 heads will raise my compression. I want more top end but I'd like to do it without adding a turbo.
Your best bet is to send your current heads to delta cams and get your cams reground, PnP and oversized valves.
Huffer
10-15-2009, 10:13 AM
I noticed immediately that the car uses up more gas w/out the silencer on & gets even better MPGs than the stock muffler when the silencer is on.
Contradictory. If you use less gas your MPGs improve.
Also, I am planning a DOHC head swap in the future. Most people have told me to just go ahead & buy a EJ25D but since I already have an EJ22E, it'll do. I'm just wondering what ECU I should use with the future hybrid motor. For now though, I just want to tune the engine to give me it's absolute stock peak without having to tear into it. Any bits of advice on how I can do that?
No point doing cams if you are swapping heads later, your SOHC cams aren't compatible with a DOHC head. Save your money.
And - FIX THAT RUST...and the exhaust hangers. It's pretty droopy and looks botched.
LegacyRebuild
10-15-2009, 04:50 PM
Contradictory. If you use less gas your MPGs improve.
- When I had the silencer off, I could smell the unburned gas. My instructor told me that was a result of extremely low back pressure (I will be getting an MSD ASAP to counter this wasted precious 89 grade that costs $2.65 a gallon here.)
No point doing cams if you are swapping heads later, your SOHC cams aren't compatible with a DOHC head. Save your money.
- I'm @ a crossroads with the whole DOHC/SOHC thing. It's like wondering whether I should jump into the pool of the unknown (just because no one else around here has tried it) or stick with what I already know works (SOHC w/good response).
And - FIX THAT RUST...and the exhaust hangers. It's pretty droopy and looks botched.
- Trust me, I will definitely do what I can to save this car from that growing metallic fungus. There aren't too many Legacy sedans like mine around here. I'm 1 of 2 BDs @ my school. The other one is a GT with the exact same color. Most of the '95-'99s are Outbacks & craigslist is littered with Outbacks or EJ25Ds w/head gasket issues (a result of negligence).
hahaha loss of backpressure. Back pressure is a myth. Plus your cats are hella more restrictive then a muffler.
Again if you're keeping the ej22 short block theres absolutly no point in swapping heads. Unless you're going turbo.
LegacyRebuild
10-15-2009, 07:39 PM
hahaha loss of backpressure. Back pressure is a myth. Plus your cats are hella more restrictive then a muffler.
Again if you're keeping the ej22 short block theres absolutly no point in swapping heads. Unless you're going turbo.
I've heard/read that the EJ22E isn't too good for boost. A kid in from another class told me that anything over 8lbs is asking for trouble. There is a 20lbs boosted EJ18 on YouTube but that motor has forged pistons. Again, I am a learning student so I'm open to suggestions/advice.
well you've read wrong son. the EJ22e is hella more reliable for boost then the EJ25. Its most durable and most reliable subaru engine ever built. Tons of people have boosted these only tuned with a SAFC. This one guy on RS25.com has over 200,000 miles on his and is pushing 12psi daily without a single problem.
LegacyRebuild
10-16-2009, 03:35 PM
A short while ago, I noticed a black plastic thing on the side of the front passenger side behind the fender. It's connected to the intake. I've been wondering whether to remove this or not because it makes this deep pitched 'woooo' sound & I hate it.
Nope do not take that off its your snorkus and it tunes the intake resonance so your MAF can read properly. Read this thread if you dont beleive me or want more info.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1471819 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1471819)
LegacyRebuild
10-16-2009, 11:31 PM
After reading a few threads, I have learned that single port headers are scarce so I've decided to make my own to turn the buzzing sound of the motor into something that says "I'm a Subaru." I've also read some threads of people who have fabricated their own exhaust & I've looked at their examples to get a clue on how to do it.
2 Inch Header Elbows (13 inches long):
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture319.jpg
2 Inch Straight Pipes (18 inches long):
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture320.jpg
2.25 Inch Straight Pipe (18 inches long):
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture317.jpg
2.25 Inch Elbow & 2 Inch Turndown: (14 inches long & 11 inches):
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture318.jpg
Lengthwise, everything added up to 74 inches. Now all I have to do is get under the car & measure the length of the stock piping.
Theres a vendor over on RS25.com that sells them. I have them and they're great!
Grafton
10-16-2009, 11:51 PM
keep in mind, if you are going on my example anyways, i do not have the stock cats anymore just a single high flow that is in a different position in the exhaust system than the stock ones. ie the headers on my car meet the cat in a different way than the stock cats would allow
LegacyRebuild
10-16-2009, 11:57 PM
keep in mind, if you are going on my example anyways, i do not have the stock cats anymore just a single high flow that is in a different position in the exhaust system than the stock ones. ie the headers on my car meet the cat in a different way than the stock cats would allow
I actually have a picture of your example on my iPod so that I can get a viewpoint on how it was done. I'll probably have to take a different route concerning the cats since inspection is coming up on the 4th of November. I'm going to get under the car tomorrow,measure the stock piping up, & see how it fits in.
LegacyRebuild
10-18-2009, 08:42 PM
I have gotten under the car & I've done the measurements. It turns out that I have too much piping for the future custom header.
For me to retain the cats, I have to keep the headers very close to this design (pis borrowed from NASIOC so don't kill me.) This looks a LOT like my set of headers:
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/headers3.jpg
These are Grafton's (please excuse me Grafton for using this pic as an example):
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/header2.jpg
Now I'm thinking of using this approach:
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/HeaderExample.jpg
I figure that if weld the left pipe straight up into the pipe coming from the right instead of into the curve, I may be able to get that rumble. The piping is 2 inches to 2.25 in diameter. Any thoughts regarding this?
Perdue
10-18-2009, 09:45 PM
You may get some rumble, but at what cost to exhaust flow? That's a pretty sharp turn in the stock manifold, so why make it worse?
LegacyRebuild
10-18-2009, 10:16 PM
You may get some rumble, but at what cost to exhaust flow? That's a pretty sharp turn in the stock manifold, so why make it worse?
I get what you're saying. The left pipe going straight in like that would congest the exit flow, which is why that curve is needed to make the flow easier/smoother. I figured that since the piping was @ a larger diameter, I could get away with it since more exhaust would flow. Now I'm going to have to think of another way to create this header. Would larger diameter piping give me that rumble?
Huffer
10-19-2009, 10:28 AM
A horizontal 4 cylinder engine will give you the rumble. The header, cats and axleback are all "just" mufflers.
LegacyRebuild
10-19-2009, 01:57 PM
A horizontal 4 cylinder engine will give you the rumble. The header, cats and axleback are all "just" mufflers.
I know that now from listening to my Volvo 850 with a cracked downpipe but thanks for your input. I have a rough example of what the headers look like in my mind after having seen, measured, & gathered up the inches. They will be created tomorrow....pics will be up.
Perdue
10-19-2009, 06:14 PM
A larger pipe will only create more dead space in that area and decrease velocity. I'd suggest building a header like Grafton's, or copy the design of the Borla UEL style headers.
LegacyRebuild
10-19-2009, 08:56 PM
A larger pipe will only create more dead space in that area and decrease velocity. I'd suggest building a header like Grafton's, or copy the design of the Borla UEL style headers.
I've been looking for a pic of the Borlas for the longest so I could have something to go by but I couldn't find anything. The part # is 17199, right? I have been looking for pictures like mad.
LegacyRebuild
10-19-2009, 08:59 PM
Taken from RS25.com & turbowholesale.com...
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/watermarkjpeg.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/IMG_1117.jpg
EXCELSIOR! At LAST I have examples! However, I'm going to have to change the design a little. I've read WAAAY too many threads about these cracking out on people. Dammit, looks like the welding will have to wait a little longer.
its not the design that cracks its the welds that Borla put on that crack. Alot of people buy the ebay knockoffs and they're much more durable.
LegacyRebuild
10-21-2009, 07:10 PM
I ran into an problem which was solved. About 200 miles after I put the GT struts/shocks/springs on, I started hearing a 'clunk' every so often. Then it turned into a rhythmic 'pop' & the right side began to vibrate very rapidly. I ended up disassembling the entire right front end @ school (I'm an automotive student & one of the few Subaru fans there so excuse my lack of knowledge or term use) to find the problem.
@ school:
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture198-1.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss226/850DegreesF/Picture197-1.jpg
Yeah, that second pic still gets to me. The day after I got the suspension, I asked a friend of mine to help me since my wife was leaving work in 45 minutes. I told him to take his time & to read the Haynes so that he could torque the bolts down properly. When everything was finished, I asked if he did everything right & he said that he did so I trusted his word. Well, to make a long story short, after I discovered this f**kup, I put everything back together & drove home (a 15 minute drive literally PRAYING that strut did not fall out of place.) When I got home, I had a pretty loud argument on the phone with him, which got even louder when he told me that it's 'nothing to worry about'. I parked the car, jacked it up & put it on jack stands, then disassembled everything again. I had kept the seats from the old suspension so I lucked out. 5 hours with twist-type spring compressors, getting the seat off the strut, getting the spring on wrong a few times, then having to do it again have left my arms feeling like jello.
Huffer
10-22-2009, 10:21 AM
Ah - you had to replace the top hat (seat).
LegacyRebuild
10-24-2009, 06:14 PM
Well, I didn't have enough time for myself to build the headers @ school nor @ home because of an insane schedule so I ended up using some of the materials for a 2 inch axleback exhaust that looks & sounds better than before (there no exhaust leaks now.) However, I'm gonna' use something that's UEL, 2 inch in diameter,& it's also nothing like the Borla 17199. It's basically a combination of the stock header(allows me to keep my cats) & and Grafton's design(rumble).
Ah - you had to replace the top hat (seat). - So, that's what it's called :P That thing was pretty bitchy to situate.
LegacyRebuild
10-26-2009, 06:27 PM
Well, upon removing the exhaust system, I discovered small cracks along the left side of the left manifold leading to the cat & now I know why my CEL pops up every now & then. Instead of working with something that's damaged (I could weld it but why?), I'm going to stop wasting time & get a MS3 UEL header. I like the way it looks & I'm pretty sold out by various videos on YT.
(Oh, yeah! Almost forgot that I used some of the piping needed for the manifold for my exhaust & figured out that I had chosen the wrong metal for my project! It kept balling up & falling when we tried to weld it! I'm such a dumbass! :P)
Props on getting a MS3 header! I have it and its great!!!
You must have your welding machine set too hot becuase thats the exact same pieces I used to build my axle-back and I didnt have any problem whatsoever, going on my 3rd harsh and salty canadian winter and it hasnt rusted yet :)
LegacyRebuild
10-26-2009, 09:34 PM
Props on getting a MS3 header! I have it and its great!!!
You must have your welding machine set too hot becuase thats the exact same pieces I used to build my axle-back and I didnt have any problem whatsoever, going on my 3rd harsh and salty canadian winter and it hasnt rusted yet :)
it's funny that you mention an axleback because I have a 2 inch to 2.25 inch pipe with the cannon attached to the end of it. That came out pretty well but we used a different welder for that one.
Perdue
10-27-2009, 05:28 AM
Check your power settings on your welder. My lincoln has recommendations for everything listed on the inside of the door to the spool.
LegacyRebuild
11-07-2009, 09:33 PM
Update:
I have use some of the piping for the exhaust system so now I have a very successful 2 to 2.25 inch axleback & my MS3 UEL header comes in a few days. Since I have removed the whole system, I'm going to use the rest of the piping to make as much of the system a 2 inch. Will post pics when the time comes.
ilovemy96
11-10-2009, 11:51 PM
congrats man on getting the ms3 headers.. post a vid up when you get em on. lol
(need to save,to get my own )
(btw i commented on one of your Youtube vids and you told me to join the site... lol)
LegacyRebuild
11-11-2009, 06:50 AM
congrats man on getting the ms3 headers.. post a vid up when you get em on. lol
(need to save,to get my own )
(btw i commented on one of your Youtube vids and you told me to join the site... lol)
Hey, how's it going? This site has pretty much everything for our cars. I've been here for a while still learning about mine. As for the MS3 headers, they have been confirmed to be here next Thursday. Videos will go up when it gets here for sure!
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.