Header Replacement tips

[WolfpackEngineering]

Hey guys,

Replacing my exhaust header this weekend. Any tips or sugestions from people who have done it before. My primary concern is being able to remove the bolts and nuts and not stripping anything. Any body have any other issues that have come up?

Thanks

[Huffer]

Plenty of PB blaster, let soak overnight (or even a couple of days with liberal applications)...be prepared for a hell of a battle and some sawzall work on the header-to-cat connections.

[hallowpoint]

i feel like this thread will definatly help me when i do mine. i know you should heat rap them.

[Airgne]

+1 on pb blaster. also make sure you get new hardware and gaskets. dont get mad just stand back and relax then try again.

+1 on wraping your header. also spray the header wrap to seal it.

[WolfpackEngineering]

Can you get the heat wrap at any auto store?

[Airgne]

most likely. i got cool it wrap and VHT header paint.

[ouch1011]

This probably won't apply, but don't use air tools, that's pretty much a guaranteed way to break something.

The only thing I can say is if the bolt doesn't move, don't force it, because some of the bolts (mainly the manifold to head studs) are small enough that you could break them with a 3/8" ratchet, and you do not want to break off studs in the head. That sucks to fix. Also, don't take apart anything that doesn't need to be taken apart. My header replaced the entire header and both cats, so I removed them as a completely assembly. No need to waste time trying to get to the cat bolts in that instance.

Other than that, like others said, plenty of PB Blaster. And WD40 is not a substitute for a good penetrating lube. WD40 is a surface lube and doesn't penetrate rusted parts.

[d1giPhux]

Why wrap the headers? you don't have to.. that just causes more moisture to build up between the wrap and the metal and will make rust later. Especially if you live somewhere where they salt the roads.. aka new england.

[Airgne]

Why wrap the headers? you don't have to.. that just causes more moisture to build up between the wrap and the metal and will make rust later. Especially if you live somewhere where they salt the roads.. aka new england.

have you seen how close the aftermarket headers run to the oil filter? if not take another look. min is about one inch away. this means your oil gets really hot. not a good thng. also the header wrap spray is to seal it from not geting water under it.

[d1giPhux]

Where do you get the spray stuff? Whats it called? I will be doing this soon.. so its good info to know about.

[Airgne]

header wrap paint. i used the black. also it smells like dounuts when its drying.



http://www.jegs.com/p/VHT/VHT-Header-Pa ... 3/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/VHT/VHT-Header-Paint/749303/10002/-1)

[Huffer]

Header wrap is optional, depending on how close your headers come to the oil filter. I have Borla headers and plenty of clearance. Others who run the knockoffs like a2rinc, speedyracer etc have less clearance.

I used Rustoleum flat black engine paint for paint.

Definitely get all new hardware, gaskets... and go slow.

[Airgne]

Header wrap is optional, depending on how close your headers come to the oil filter. I have Borla headers and plenty of clearance. Others who run the knockoffs like a2rinc, speedyracer etc have less clearance.

I used Rustoleum flat black engine paint for paint.

Definitely get all new hardware, gaskets... and go slow.

mine are borla, but when i wraped them i wraped them tight as hell so it moved them closer to the filter.

[chuckthefuk]

I may be to late but if your replacing your headers with aftermarket UEL versions (Borla/Knockoffs) you will probably run into a few problems:

-Do not use the studs that come with the kit
--> You can reuse your old ones but whats the point spend the $10 on studs

-Do not use the gaskets that come with the kit
--> Wafer style gaskets break apart compared to multi-layer oem gaskets

-Depending on shipping methods the runners might be bent slightly (1mm - 2mm)
--> just pull the runners away from each other with a friend to bend them back into shape

Cheers.
-Chuck

[1-3-2-4]

Why wrap the headers? you don't have to.. that just causes more moisture to build up between the wrap and the metal and will make rust later. Especially if you live somewhere where they salt the roads.. aka new england.


I never wrapped mine.. I've had my headers on for what about two months now they are a nice golden color now :)

As far as the head studs they came out better then i thought.. one of them screwed out of the whole head but it was no big deal just the nut never screwed off and thats with PB blaster.

my header came from speedyracer never had to bent anything to get it to fit

[anothernord]

My header install was such a pain, I ate through 2 sawzall blades trying to cut the bolts, even after liberal PB Blaster application. I ended up dropping the entire exhaust and using a huge breaker bar to break the nuts off.

In the end, I think that its a little easier this way because you can work with the whole thing while it is on the ground and you don't have to be squeezed under a car when toiling away at those bolts. PB Blaster helps in any case.

[1-3-2-4]

lol you should of saw me.. I was on my back, my side, my stomach haha I used a dremel but the motor brushes got a little hot so my tool was cutting in and out.


Dec or Jan I'm going to fix some areas up.. I like the axleback I got but it's not loud enough for me :razz:

[Huffer]

My header install was such a pain, I ate through 2 sawzall blades trying to cut the bolts, even after liberal PB Blaster application. I ended up dropping the entire exhaust and using a huge breaker bar to break the nuts off.

In the end, I think that its a little easier this way because you can work with the whole thing while it is on the ground and you don't have to be squeezed under a car when toiling away at those bolts. PB Blaster helps in any case.

You needed a lift, and a torch to head up the bolts.

I just did this on a Toyota Sienna with the original bolts that had rusted from 10mm to 11mm in size, and had a nice ant-hill style corrosion around the bolt. 15secs with a torch and the nuts came loose without any real issues.

There are some things that are just so simple with the right equipment. I think from now on I'll be rolling into my friend's garage for things like exhaust installs. Unless the car has under 100k and is from a non-salt state.

[YVK]

be prepared for a hell of a battle and some sawzall work on the header-to-cat connections.
i thought i was the only one that had to experience this sh#t. omgggg.

[Huffer]

^^ it sucks doesn't it?
I refuse to do exhaust work anymore - I would rather pay a pro to do it right than lose skin and hair because I lack the tools, space and expertize. I'll do what I do best, which is buy stuff. :P

[grayguy]

It's so easy to drop the whole system, that's what I do whenever I have to work on any subaru exhaust.

[YVK]

It's so easy to drop the whole system, that's what I do whenever I have to work on any subaru exhaust.
ya ended up doing that. but i just re-installed them for the 2nd time, (1st time i dont think i tightened them hard enough and lost a few nuts) and now it has some sort of whistle coming from somewhere.. takin it down to a shop tomorrow..

i'm thinkin maybe it has something to do with how i put these on ? i put the smooth side facing the block..

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282658_238246566197386_100000361330125_810137_5924975_n.jpg

[grayguy]

I've always put them smooth-side to the heads, makes sense to me

[YVK]

hm. might try switching them over tomorrow.. ugh. going to be the 3rd time re-installing em.

[Huffer]

Are those OEM gaskets?

[grayguy]

My theory has always been that the smooth side seats up against the nice smooth head surface, and the non-smooth side is slightly more squishy and will conform to the less smooth/even surface of the manifold...just a theory.

I still haven't figured out why sometimes the dealer gives me those ones, and sometimes they give me the all smooth ones...

[YVK]

Are those OEM gaskets?
ya, i have these that i got from the dealership and the ones that came with the headers. i'm thinking the OEM ones are the best ones to use ? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif

[chuckthefuk]

Do not use the dimpled gaskets that come with these Chinese headers! They crack and are made of cheap stamped material.

OEM or at least OE equivalent.

[YVK]

Do not use the dimpled gaskets that come with these Chinese headers! They crack and are made of cheap stamped material.

OEM or at least OE equivalent.
yep i switched to OEM ones. looks like it was just not tightened hard enough. no more whistle.

[99' legacy l]

yaa idk if its still relevent but ive heard that using a wire brush attached to a drill to go arround the head studs and plenty of pb blaster.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

Lets say I don't wrap my headers is there a chance of cracking them from them getting hot and them plowing through snow?

[chuckthefuk]

Its impossible to say..

My knock-off's have been through 4 years of snow bankin', plowin', ice, water, flooding and the temp changes never cracked the pipes.

Honestly if your looking for any real gains heat wrap is going to be the most efficient / durable.

-Chuck