"Aggressive" wheel fitment on second gen BG Legacy?

[aekOne]

yeah i've encountered one problem which is that on the rears, the tyres are just nicking the struts so i'll need to use some spacers (when we first measured it up it looked like we had a few mm to spare. My measuring obviously isn't so good lol). Hopefully get some this week sometime

[teh luckinator]

car finally clears this saturday so i'll be picking it up, so i'm gonna get this thread started again.

already have some coilovers in line, helix dna or whatever.

i also found some cr kai knockoffs, drag dr31 i think it's called, but it's 17x9 +28. crap. luckily for me, my good friend with a subaru just got some 17x9 +42 wheels, or somewhere close to that, so i'll be test fitting those ass soon as i get my coilovers on, and work from there. issue i'm worried about now is getting camber. the coilovers come with front camber plates stock, no idea how much i can get there, i'm thinking maybe up to -3 degrees. main issue is the rear, i've been reading camber bolts barely give you any adjustment, MAYBE like -+1 degree. how do people adjust camber besides that? lateral links? someone fill me in please.

[cusco-awd]

+28 is a HUGE jump from +42

[teh luckinator]

yeah pretty much an inch, i figure i could pull an inch out haha.

[teh luckinator]

found cheap wheels



original plan is cr kai knockoffs, but these are cheap and come in +42. what do you guys think? i'm trying to imagine them on a wagon...

[aurelius]

What size are they?

I just got 17x7.5 +45 and will be running 15mm spacers all round I think.

[teh luckinator]

17x9 +42

i'm pretty sure i'll be going with the drags haha.

[aurelius]

OMG YES PLZ

lime green?

[teh luckinator]

well the plan is either white car, white wheels, or red car, white wheels. i love red, but with white wheels it seems really "racecar" you know? picture of red legacy with white wheels anyone? sedan or wagon, i just need inspiration haha.

[lazerface]

yeah, somebody post a photo, or photoshop something. i've been wondering about the red/white combo too.

[subie/legacy]

All Photoshop requests POST HERE
try posting your request there. I have with good results.

[sybir]

Previous owner of my Enkeis. Hope that helps.

[urban_outback]

im on 02 wrx shocks and h&r lowering springs. i want new springs in the front to get rid of the saggy butt

anyways on 18x9.5 +38 with 235/40s





stole em off my friends wrx

[Matty2Hotty]

Finally someone with a ref once 9.5" wide... Serious fender work would need to be done to have a real flush look without poking any. I think I'm going 9" wide for sure now.

[urban_outback]

yeah thats with stock fenders and 0 degrees camber. im shure they would fit with a little pull and some camber

[sybir]

Fender work is an understatement, lol. You're poking at least an inch and you're not getting much more than 1/2" out of the fenders without massacring them. But run stiff coils and you'd probably be ok. Some S13 overfenders would be slick with that setup if you matched them to the lower cladding, and cut away the fenders for clearance or something.

[wiisass]

I mean I don't know anything about how the BG fenders are constructed, but it looks like that could tuck nicely if you lower it another inch or so, give it a little more camber and roll them as much as you can and hammer a bunch of stuff. But if you can 1/2" out of the fenders, you can probably make up the rest with some camber. It looks like it could be done without overfenders.

[sybir]

Strut cars lose camber under compression, they don't gain it like the multilink cars. Makes everything more of a PITA....trust me, lol. Those tires will never tuck in, you have to bring the fenders out around them, and you can only do so much before you're making shelves, lol.

[wiisass]

Well that's not true. If the angle between the lower control arm and the line between the strut mount bearing and lower ball joint is less than 90*, a strut suspension will gain negative camber. If it's greater than 90* it will lose negative camber.

If lower the car only that much makes this an issue, you should deal with the suspension geometry problems and then you'll have an easier time fitting wheels. I'm sure there are some options for dealing with this.

[sybir]

Take a look at your front LCA's on any Subaru lowered more than an inch, and get back to me, lol. I know what you're saying - what I'm saying is that Subaru strut suspension geometry loses camber once the control arm goes above horizontal, for the reasons you specified with relative angles. I don't care how low or high the car is, under hard compression, once the arms go above level, you lose negative camber. The multilink in the rear is a huge improvement for this reason.

[LiCelsior]

damn 18x9.5 +38 is mad poke, 18x9 +30 should be about the same no? damn, fender flares time.

[jdmg3]

Take a look at your front LCA's on any Subaru lowered more than an inch, and get back to me, lol. I know what you're saying - what I'm saying is that Subaru strut suspension geometry loses camber once the control arm goes above horizontal, for the reasons you specified with relative angles. I don't care how low or high the car is, under hard compression, once the arms go above level, you lose negative camber. The multilink in the rear is a huge improvement for this reason.

For that reason I took out the lifting block off my Outback and also swapped the rear cross member for an STI one witch the mounting location for the LCA are higher. A roll center kit would also help to prevent/minimize that positive camber under compression!

[sybir]

Take a look at your front LCA's on any Subaru lowered more than an inch, and get back to me, lol. I know what you're saying - what I'm saying is that Subaru strut suspension geometry loses camber once the control arm goes above horizontal, for the reasons you specified with relative angles. I don't care how low or high the car is, under hard compression, once the arms go above level, you lose negative camber. The multilink in the rear is a huge improvement for this reason.

For that reason I took out the lifting block off my Outback and also swapped the rear cross member for an STI one witch the mounting location for the LCA are higher. A roll center kit would also help to prevent/minimize that positive camber under compression!

Yep, makes a huge difference. I still haven't gotten around to yanking the spacers on my OB, with all of the other little BS that's needed (new dogbone, steering coupler, etc). Might do it when I swap steering racks since I'll have half of that stuff out anyways.

[jdmg3]

Dont forget the tranny subframe, shifter to floor mount, the rear trailing arms, RSB mounts! Its alot of stuff. I had a buddy that wanted his wagon to be the Outback height so we swaped everything!
If ever you need tips for your rack, I just did my conversion and I did it in a way that I will always use the wrx/sti steering u-joint!

[sybir]

Yep - haven't stared at the tranny subframe so I couldn't remember if the lift there was integrated or spacers like the front and rear subframes. I'd need a full donor to do it in a way that would make me comfortable - original plan was bolting all the WRX bits up when I did a swap, and then I went and bought an STi and stopped caring as much. I've got both types of u-joints sitting in the garage, so I can weld one up to match whatever, but changing the shaft spline is a good idea to be able to use stock parts from something else in an emergency. I'm lazy enough that I'll probably just toss a rebuilt factory rack in when this one finally goes.