So, My Leggy... **UPDATE 3/29/2013 My Luck and Parts!

[LGTtoBE]

New plan for the Engine. See latest plans.

So, I WAS planning on having my new block ready before KABOOM!!!! But sadly... (see latest post)

NEW UPDATED PLANS:
EJ251 Short Block (GOT IT)
EJ25D HLA Heads (GOT EM)
11044AA632 .7mm Head Gasket (should provide 10.4:1 compression)
Delta Stage 2 cams
Flat-faced exhaust valves
Port and Polish
Custom exhaust (hopefully to include some 4zero1 pieces)
Upgraded water and oil pumps (GOT EM AND AN OIL COOLER)
The rest is all just add-on/external



May happen later on:
Neon upgraded coil conversion
Kartboy crank pulley
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)[/b]
[/color]
This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)

[chuckthefuk]

Wow what a list.. building a bullet proof N/A daily monster.

The cams and port / polish should give you at least 15-20 but its all in the tune at that point..

Your best bet if your serious is PP6 piggyback..

Good luck with your build.
-Chuck

[LGTtoBE]

That's the idea anyway!
PP6 eh? I'll check that out!

Thanks. I'll eventually start a DIY/Build thread just for this.

[MikeyMeyagi]

if you want more flow, look into the 96 25D HLA heads, huge ports and a different combustion chamber shape. Lower compression though, 53cc chambers vs 46.7cc of the 97-99 25D heads.

[Huffer]

Thread moved to naturally aspirated.

[LGTtoBE]

Well, I finally received my JDM EJ25. Along with the obvious intake manifold and EGR mods, I'll be replacing the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, head gaskets (and bolts of course) and clutch!
It's all here and ready to go (finally)
I'll also be installing my new JDM projector fogs and sidemarkers at the same time.

This IS going to be a LONG project.
I still have to get the 3rds in my 4Runner re-geared and get the A6 on the road all at the same time.

I'll try to keep updating (though it may be slow). I'll add pics as I'm working on it.

[csweston]

Looks like its going to be a good build! Cant wait to see get started.

[chuckthefuk]

wow thats a full plate for sure

good luck post updates!

[anothernord]

Emanage Ultimate > PP6. I've used both. The trick is finding an Emanage for under $400, you'll have to do some looking.

[Grafton]

don't forget that the cams are not cheap for the 25d, ~600 because you need special valves or material welded onto the cam

[rougeben83]

ditch the lower thermostat. Honestly, youre doing your engine no favors by not getting the oil up to the right operating temp where it can do the most work in lubrication. You'll lose more weight by going with a lightweight flywheel vs. a crank pulley. Do fw or both, but not the crank if you have to chose between the two.

From the cams and bolt-ons alone, that's roughly 200bhp from what people have have done with 2.5RS's so youre in the ballpark even without the thousand dollar bling valvetrain parts from TWE.

[Grafton]

Delta Cams (add/grind) stage II have them do the welding VS getting the long valves
Tech Works Ti valve springs/retainers (possibly the shim under bucket conversion) are you raising the red line?
NEED VALVE SUGGESTIONS find flat faced valves and have a 5 angle job done, stock is 3 angle + the flat face bumps compression
ARP head stud kit
Subaru HG (part no. 11044AA610)
FAST MOTORSPORTS 170 Thermostat! eh this just lowers the "normal" temp of your engine not the running hard high temp
Port and polish (the most ridiculously expensive portion, and believe me; I'm looking for a deal) do it yourself and save money
Tech Works 11.2:1 pistons
Eagle forged connecting rods (stock length of course)
Cosworth main and rod bearings overpriced ACL's just get some acl bearing's coated
STi crank you'll need to have the block machined for the #5 thrust OR just swap a phase 2 block in saves you from the crazy machining
Neon upgraded coil conversion adjust the plug gap to take advantage of the upgraded coil
Kartboy crank pulley like rouge said go with a LW flywheel instead
HD timing belt
exhausting it all through a 2.25in. stainless tubing (high flow cat optional) no difference on dyno between high-flow cat and track pipe
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)

This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)

my suggestions in red

things to add:
oem oil cooler/turbo water pump
upgraded radiator
manifold spacers
TWE headers
upgraded clutch

[LGTtoBE]

Delta Cams (add/grind) stage II have them do the welding VS getting the long valves I figured on the welding (what I called add/grind)
Tech Works Ti valve springs/retainers (possibly the shim under bucket conversion) are you raising the red line? For Safety's sake I thought it may help but if it's unnecessary I'll leave it out.
NEED VALVE SUGGESTIONS find flat faced valves and have a 5 angle job done, stock is 3 angle + the flat face bumps compression Ok... that's not something I considered. But I'll look into it.
ARP head stud kit
Subaru HG (part no. 11044AA610)
FAST MOTORSPORTS 170 Thermostat! eh this just lowers the "normal" temp of your engine not the running hard high temp My idea with this was to prevent the thermostat from being stuck in the "closed" position. My understanding was that this thermostat will default to "open" to allow the coolant to continue to flow and cool instead of warping heads etc.
Port and polish (the most ridiculously expensive portion, and believe me; I'm looking for a deal) do it yourself and save money Now I know that you have the skill to do it but I don't know what I'm really getting myself into...
Tech Works 11.2:1 pistons
Eagle forged connecting rods (stock length of course)
Cosworth main and rod bearings overpriced ACL's just get some acl bearing's coated Oh yeah?
STi crank you'll need to have the block machined for the #5 thrust OR just swap a phase 2 block in saves you from the crazy machining I'd consider the phase 2 block swap but I have no idea what I kind of $ I'd be looking at on the machining or the block.
Neon upgraded coil conversion adjust the plug gap to take advantage of the upgraded coil Spec for gap?
Kartboy crank pulley like rouge said go with a LW flywheel instead I've been told just don't do both... and what sort of adverse effects might the lightened flywheel have?
HD timing belt
exhausting it all through a 2.25in. stainless tubing (high flow cat optional) no difference on dyno between high-flow cat and track pipe High Flow cat it is... I have VEIP here in Maryland to deal with
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)

This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)

my suggestions in red

things to add:
oem oil cooler/turbo water pump (I'd say that sounds like a wise investment)
upgraded radiator (who makes one though?!? or should I look for a "universal" with the right size and inlet/outlet locations and figure mounting out on my own?)
manifold spacers (was wondering if this would make any sort of significant difference. the $ is negligible in the overall scheme of things)
TWE headers (just because they're EL? and is it really a 7hp difference in UEL and EL?)
upgraded clutch (that's also part of the plan. I hate how everyone labels clutches in stages but very few companies provide you with any torque and "holding" numbers to make sense of their ratings. Most list HP and that is kind of relative taking things like vehicle weight, and drivetrain efficiency into account, correct?)

Hey Graf,
I've read through your thread(s) and looked at some of your videos in prep for this project.
Check out the green? I'll take any advice I can get when it comes to NA build tips.

[Grafton]

Hey Graf,
I've read through your thread(s) and looked at some of your videos in prep for this project.
Check out the green? I'll take any advice I can get when it comes to NA build tips.

props for researching!

just because they're EL? and is it really a 7hp difference in UEL and EL? there is supposed to be a lot more "non peak" power aka a wider and healthier powerband up to 15hp pre-peak

upgraded clutch I was just thinking non-oem level replacement.

adverse effects might the lightened flywheel have? in combo with pulley can cause misfire codes, the rev's change much quicker than stock, potential nvh increase

Spec for gap? trial and error start stock and then adjust bigger in increments with a bit of driving between adjustments you'll get to a place where you have misfires you've gone too big and need to dial it back a few steps to account for wear

Oh yeah? yeah when ACL's were out of stock everywhere so were cosworth's and someone came out and said it on nasioc


BTW I was sooo tempted to just go with purple and add to what was there...

[LGTtoBE]

I finally began tearing-down of the temporary EJ25.

I was surprised to find so many differences in the accessories attached to it.
I was aware of the intake manifold (and lack of an EGR system) but unaware of the differences in the power steering pump, and A/C compressor. Also I didn't know that there was a slightly different configuration for the thermostat.

I haven't removed the pulleys, cams or heads yet b/c I'm still trying to find bolts to get it onto my engine stand. (can't figure the size or pitch... 10mm 1.5 is what I thought but they didn't work) ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?


Here's a couple of pics of what was done. (I'll post a couple more later)

[02_Legacy]

I haven't removed the pulleys, cams or heads yet b/c I'm still trying to find bolts to get it onto my engine stand. (can't figure the size or pitch... 10mm 1.5 is what I thought but they didn't work) ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?

grab one of the tranny bolts and bring it to the hardware store so you can match the size and thread pich, plus they should have some gauges there that you can use.

[Grafton]

or use the transmission bolts plus the 2 studs on the bottom, works great for me

[LGTtoBE]

just a few pics of the SLOWEST automotive project I've EVER undertaken

[4U2Envy]

I plan on doing a similar build next year and am very interested in your results, keep the updates coming

[rougeben83]

If you have a BE, you can use any of the aftermarket radiators made for the GD WRX. I have a Megan 2 row in mine.

[LGTtoBE]

Took me a while but the temp engine is back together and may just get dropped-in the leggy tonight.

Here's a pic.




And for those of you that have purchased an earlier model EJ25... you'll want to replace the 2 pc belt tensioner with the 1 pc and have to order the new belt tensioner bracket (Subaru Part # 13156AA041). Along with that you'll be converting to the new water pump style and therefore have to trim the timing cover to clear the pump housing (highlighted below).




I've been slacking on this project but hopefully we can get to the good and fun stuff (the NEW build) soon!

[LGTtoBE]

The engine is in!

Still have to put the new plug wires on (as soon as I can find them). Put on old wires to try and start it but no luck. The heat in cyl #2 was so great that it partially melted and cracked the plastic boot/tube on the wire. Little concerned about the HLA's too.
I really hope I can get this thing running soon. I wish I could find a fellow Subaru enthusiast in the area to just bounce idea's off of.








NEXT STEP: Make it run.
after that I can finally tear into a serious build.

[TGX4776]

where are you located?

[LGTtoBE]

Odenton, MD not exactly down the street....

[TGX4776]

lol noooo there are some pretty smart guys with a shop in Winchester, VA that i would recommend talking to. One's a DSM guy from florida and the other is a Subaru guy. they dont have a shop name yet but if you want i can get you their number

[LGTtoBE]

sure! that would be great. Want to PM it to me?

[TGX4776]

sure i'll do it soon

[LGTtoBE]

I DESPERATELY NEED HELP!!!!!!

At this point I don't have an operable vehicle to my name. (that's what I get for having 2 in "project phase" and having the 3rd develop a mechanical issue.)

So, I've found that I have compression, AIR, FUEL, and Spark (even replaced my coil when 2 and 4 didn't seem to fire). I am soooo frustrated!!! My concerns come with these HLA heads, crank and cam position sensors.
My next step [I guess] is to check that all of my timing marks still line up (I don't see how they would have changed.).
The engine turns with the starter and a constant "normal" cranking sound and will begin to "catch" (as if it's going to start) any where from 1 to 3 times in a row but never actually starts.

If somehow the timing was out sooo much that it wouldn't start wouldn't there be valve interference?!?!? From what I understand you can have these engines out about 13 degrees before interference though... Is there an "in-between" where the timing is out enough to NOT allow it to run but also within 13 degrees (as to NOT cause interference)?

[LGTtoBE]

On a side note: I've begun tearing into the pulled engine

[r3v_v3ng3]

when i rebuilt my ej25 phase 2 block with a 25d heads, i had the same problem starting it. Turns out that i had to use the arrow indicator on the crank gear to line up with the notch instead of the line. When i rebuilt my friends ej251, you have to use the line.