Damn! I'm about to start a profile on NASIOT just to see if he has any of the parts I need! That is one clean Pulsar!Originally Posted by 98legwag
Damn! I'm about to start a profile on NASIOT just to see if he has any of the parts I need! That is one clean Pulsar!Originally Posted by 98legwag
Got some more done... I even got the the interior back together, kinda, just no pics yet.
Changed out the shredded Power steering belt, that was a PITA!
Also pulled off the oil pan and knocked all the dents out. Painted it my signature RED... haha.... Also fitted some extra S13 braided brake lines I had never used on my Silvia.
Also got all the plastics, at least the ones I have, installed under the car. Both wheel liners, down pipe, and I'm now trying to figure out how to build a one piece driveline. This could get interesting... Needs a slip-yoak...
Ok, got some more pics...
The most cool thing I forgot to tell you guys, she has power! I still cant try and start her up yet though, fuel and brake lines still need to be repaired, but this is a start!
So far everything works, other then the power windows (one bad regulator and a bad switch). All the lights work, the wipers (note to self, make sure they are not ON when you hook up the battery and you have no window!), turn signals, high beams, city lights, hazards, and I even got a cd player hooked up! Cant for the life of my figure out why the right front speaker is dead though...
Any way, here are some pics!
Dash lights and stereo!
Trunk light
Head lights, turn signals, tail lights, and city lights...
Only have one socket for the city lights...
Interior shots!
Driver seat (ugly one) from my NX2000 parts car, JDM seat (nice looking one)... The JDM ones are SOOOO much better then the USDM ones! I just need a driver seat now.. ugh...
That's fantastic!!!! I can't wait for you to get her going! I can't wait to see this in person =]
Also, is that an old Volvo I see? :P
-Nick
1991 Subaru Legacy L -221K -Killed in action
1996 Subaru Legacy L -192K -Rust in Peace
1996 Subaru Outback -214K -Drove into ground
1999 Subaru Outback Limited -195K -Kiara. EJ22D. 5 speed swapped dual sunroof BG
1990 Volvo 240 sedan -220K -B230F. M47. I Drift Bro.
1964 Triumph Spitfire 4 Mark 1 -47K -First Love. Continuous Project. #BeingTopless 50whp of British fury!
Originally Posted by Thomistopheles
If you name this car it definitely needs a "Franken" in there somewhere.
not cheap but there ya go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-90-95-Nissa ... 50&vxp=mtr
I cant wait ether! If you ever find yourself in Seattle, stop by!Originally Posted by nikolaus.conrad
And yes, thats the Volvo next to it...
I did name her, "Penny"! You know, lots of copper welding wire, and pennys are made from copper... hahaOriginally Posted by hansvonaxion
For that price, no way! I would get a Bride, MOMO, or a Sparco... I'm not too worried about getting a seat till I'm ready to sell it. Maybe next year or something. I do have a friend that is supposed to get me one though, so I'm not too worried.Originally Posted by elislider
Got some more work done...
I decided to attempt removing my windshield myself... With mixed results... :smt009
Everything was going great! I decided that since no one could guaranty that it would not come out broken, I would save the money and try myself. I got it out, but with a little damage. However, I'm still going to use it since we have NO cars in North America that have the same window.
A friend told me about the torch method. It worked great till I over heated one corner of the window and cracked it. It's a low crack and I might be able to live with it till I can afford a new one from Japan (about $700).
Well here are the pics... I now know how to remove a window with a torch. Simple really, just dont heat up the glass too much. What happens is the paint will detach it's self from the metal and come off with the seal and the glass. I used a wire to cut the parts that didnt detach. Worked excellent!
This is the frame the window was in... frame was cut from another car...
The crack's.... ugh... At least they are low and I'm hoping they curve into each other...
The heated parts of the metal...
JDM yo! And yes, I'm leaving them on! Can anyone tell me what they say? haha
Torch? Why not one of these
work wonders when I pulled my BD glass.. Pivots and all
Have you thought about Lexan glass? Affordable, strong, easy to cut.. just needs up keep to make sure its clear through the months..
I had one of those... One, you need the window fixed, as in cant move... Two, I used mine and broke a Subaru window...
I know how I messed up the glass, so next time it wont be a problem...
As for Lexan, I'm already walking a fine line with legal, illegal, so I'm just gonna do it the right way. Plus the next owner I'm sure would want a normal piece of glass installed... Lexan is only legal for race use only when it comes to cars. A couple Pulsar guys have them in Canada, but they dont like it...
Hmmm... just curious where the window cracked.. was it by the cowling?
I am pretty sure you can use Lexan in the rear.. well just a thought :-D
The crack is down by the cowl... on the driver (right) side...
And yeah, rear is ok, just not the front...
Ya I had the same issue with my tool.. like butter until you have to rotate the tool to get around the freaking clips!
Anyways! Whats the plans for the SR?
Yeah, most the time I use wire to cut windows out, but never had luck with it. The heat work great, I just should have practiced on something not so damned rare!
I would love to get a NEO head (late model) for it, everyone says thats the best head to have and it adds a ton of power, but for now just stock. a bigger turbo might be in the cards, but again just gonna play with it stock for now.
I have a EVO V FMIC I'm gonna pipe in, they say that give a bit of power also since the flow for the intercooler sucks balls. It's right on top of the motor with no flow through like the Subarus have...
Thats about it for now...
Get the Greddy Rocker-arm-stopper and timing chain when you are ready for reliable boost :-D
Cheers and good luck with the build !
Yeah, I hear the rockers are a weak point on these transverse mount SR's...
I'm hoping to drive her in the next month or 2 so I'm getting excited!
I hope to be driving my Spit in that amount of time too!Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
-Nick
1991 Subaru Legacy L -221K -Killed in action
1996 Subaru Legacy L -192K -Rust in Peace
1996 Subaru Outback -214K -Drove into ground
1999 Subaru Outback Limited -195K -Kiara. EJ22D. 5 speed swapped dual sunroof BG
1990 Volvo 240 sedan -220K -B230F. M47. I Drift Bro.
1964 Triumph Spitfire 4 Mark 1 -47K -First Love. Continuous Project. #BeingTopless 50whp of British fury!
Originally Posted by Thomistopheles
The "17" has to do with the year the car was registered. A lot of Japan's date systems use the era instead of the year. right now they are in Heisei era, which started when this emperor took over. Right now it is Heisei 24, so it was registered 7 years ago by that sticker. The numbers around it are 1-12 for the months. You pull off the one that the car was registered in so that way you (and cops) know when it expires just by looking at it. The small one is road tax, if I remember right. I got a couple of stickers and that big one with the number on it the same day so I can't really remember which one is which. I know that doesn't tell you what it said, but gives you an idea of what they are for.Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
Close Yoko, the small one is for JCI, (Japanese Compulsory Insurance) which is an inspection that we have to have every 2 years that says the car is roadworthy, and that can cost around $400-500 depending on the exchange rate, plus you also have to fix any problems they find during the inspection prior to actually passing and getting the sticker, the big one is the Road tax that we have to pay every year, and depending on a few factors determines the price of that, the biggest factor is the size of the engine, if you have a 2.0 liter or smaller than you only pay about $75, if its bigger than that you pay around $200. You are right on the numbers though, that is the 17th year of the emperor that it last had road tax paid, and the JCI was good until the 7th month (July) of the 18th year of the emperor which was 2006.
Wow... cool! I didnt know any of that!
You guys think it would be possible to get some new ones from over there? At least the big round one thats a little deteriorated? I've been wondering about all the registration stuff over there. My car has 194K Kilometers (If I remember right). Thats pretty high from what I have heard...
have to change the little one out ever 2yrs, once it come off its useless. the one with the 17 is the year that cars inspection died. cant get those either.Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
194k is normal for the gtir. peopel normaly dont junk them unless there is something majorly wrong. japanese have to take there cars to a shop for everything, so it gets expensive. my laurel is almost at 122k, and runs like a top.
2013 VW GTI(Daily)
1991 Nissan Laurel(Weekend warrior)
1997 Nissan Laurel ClubS25t(Sold)
1997 Nissan Laurel Medalist RB26DETT swapped(Sold)
1997 Nissan Laurel ClubS25t Drift Missile(Junked)
2001 Legacy Gt Ltd(Sold)
1992 Legacy SS(Sold)
1991 Legacy L(Sold)
Quote "I must reconcile courage and surrender in equal measure." Charlton Heston RIP
Do you think there would be a way to get a scan on one of those stickers? I can have them make over here if I have a scan. The little one is in good shape, but the other one is so trashed..
Also, I know that plates are car/region specific. You guys wouldnt by chance know what the plate would look like on my car, would ya? Would be cool to have them for car shows...
The region on the plate has to do with where it was registered. If you look at the pictures, Crash and I have different plates on our cars. The kanji at the top of the plate shows where it was registered. Mine shows Yokohama. I don't know where Crash had his registered so I can't say what his is. The car specific part is the numer after the kanji. Legacy's are 500 plates because of their engine size. I haven't seen any Pulsars around so I don't know what numbers yours would be. If someone on here can find those numbers for you, it would be easy to make a plastic replica - just find one of those fake plates and turn it around so that it is white and get decals made for kanji and numbers across the top. The plates that I really like that I have seen out here are the back lit ones. From time to time I will see one that the characters are lit up with green lights from behind.
There used to be 2 GTI-Rs here on base, I know for a fact that 1 guy lives in the same dorm as me, If I see his car soon Ill snap a picture of his plate, they are 500s as well if I'm not mistaken, anything 2.0 Liters or smaller is a 500 plate, bigger is a 300. I thought mine was registered in Tachikawa, but that's not the symbols for Tachikawa, the way most of us here remember Tachikawa is a shake and three fries ??, so I don't know. The back lit plates are special order, from what I have been told they are very hard for Americans to get, I don't know why.
A friend of mine has one just like this, but it's a LHD.
Even the same color.
Mechanic @ PonCat/Caterpillar
2001 Subaru Legacy 2.5GX
1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2GX (Soon to be 2.0GT)
1987 Subaru Leone 1.8 GL Coupe
1985 GMC Jimmy Blazer 6.2D
Shake and fries is funny. For Yokosuka, we remember Skinny guy fat guy watching TV with a pot on the stove. ???.
I think making a plastic plate with decals to match would be easiest. Since you know that it is a 500 plate, you can copy Crash or mine. You can get creative and put a different city's kanji on top. Maybe find out what city the Pulsar was first produced in and put that on there.
Well, I havent got a chance to get one of the Pulsar, but it is a 500, same as mine, so here is one of mine, his just has different numbers from the 79 86 on mine
Well, I got a couple things figured out...
Replaced the driver window motor... That was interesting... Found that the left rear door motor from a USDM 1998 Sentra was exactly the same! So the driver door window works now! I just need to figure out why it like to bind on the way up...
As for the passenger door, this one is being a pain to figure out. Found a new switch from a 89 Sentra that plugged in. It has power, but I cant get anything from it. No up or down. I can run the window up or down with jumper wires, but thats it... cant figure this one out to save my life!
Do you still have access to the Sentra you got the parts from? Maybe try using the window buttons from that. The buttons you are using might be dead or have dirty contactors.
I got it from a rear door, they never get used... My Pulsar switch does the same thing also... The driver switch in the Sentra was gone also... I did have to do some wire repair, so that might have something to do with it... I dunno... I had to walk away and leave it alone for a bit, it was driving me nuts.