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Thread: DIY: Turbo the EJ25D

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    DIY: Turbo the EJ25D

    Well, once again, I've changed setups, this time from a JC Sports turbo kit, to a full WRX-style turbo setup. Why did I make this change? Mostly because I had a buyer that was wanting the kit very badly, and willing to pay well for it, within reason, and also because the JC sport kit positions the turbo in a way that will not allow a larger turbo to fit. Since I'd like a bigger turbo, and the cleaner*-install of a WRX-style turbo setup, I pulled the trigger. Call me insane, but I like to tinker.

    If you ever decide to turbo your DOHC engine, this is probably the simplest way to do it besides getting a kit, which are rare and have quirks.



    IMPORTANT: Engine Management

    Here's the deal. If you use 91 octane, a good fuel pump, and have a good intercooler, you can run 5 PSI without engine management. However, any more boost than that requires an engine management system. This stuff has been covered a lot before, but I'll outline it. If you have a pre 2001 car, here are some options that people have had success with:

    Piggybacks:
    RalliTEK PP6
    Greddy Emanage
    Greddy Emanage Ultimate (I use this)
    Apexi S-AFC
    AEM F/IC

    Standalones:
    Megasquirt >>> http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t135220 ... -case.html
    AEM

    The limit of the stock 280cc injectors is about 6-7 PSI, so if you want to run more than that, you'll need larger injectors, such as blue and pink WRX/STi top feeds, or yellow STi 04-06 side feeds.


    First off, here's a list of parts I bought, about 2 weeks in advance of my planned install weekend.
    I got a bunch of this stuff from eBay, so I'll copy the titles in so they're easier to find if you ever decide to do this.

    Turbo Oil Feed line Kit M10 x 1.50mm TD04 TD05 TD06



    IMPREZA WRX/STI 1P EJ25 STAINLESS STEEL HEADER MANIFOLD

    I know for sure that this one will clear the N/A water pump, but the OEM WRX manifold will not clear it.



    Reducer Silicone Hose Coupler 90 degree 2.5" to 2.25"


    SUBARU HKS BLOW OFF VALVE BOV ADAPTER FLANGE

    Obviously, you'll need an HKS-type valve for this, but you can use any BOV you want, just realize that there's not a ton of space to work with.



    02-07 Subaru WRX STi Top Mount Intercooler Y Pipe Kit


    (ACE) 3/4" to 1/2" brass "tee"



    OTHER PARTS:

    -Turbo crossmember w/ turbo swaybar (N/A ones don't fit)
    -Downpipe of your choice 02-07 WRX fitment
    -Catback of your choice (or open stock WRX downpipe, sounds great and is cheap)
    -2" straight silicone coupler
    -2.5" - 3" silicone reducer
    -2.5" "U" bend of aluminum pipe
    -02-07 WRX TMIC (I used an 02, but the 06-07 fit much better)
    -Turbo of your choice (I used a TD04 just to get it up and running, a VF39 will come soon)
    -A 90 degree, 3/8" brass hose fitting for the drain to the valve cover
    -2x 1/2" brass hose fitting for breathers/IACV/PCV
    -Blow-off valve of your choice (I used an SSQV)
    -2.75" straight silicone coupler (for the IC-TB connection)
    -8 feet of 1/2" rubber hose
    -2 feet of 5/8" rubber hose
    -More things I'm forgetting, and will add later



    Since my car is a daily driver, I planned out how I was going to do the install. Here's the basic outline of the main install. The first two days can be done any time, provided you have N/A headers, like Borlas, that will clear the turbo crossmember so you can drive around.

    Day 1: Install turbo crossmember
    Day 2: Tap valve cover, trim firewall and test fit intercooler
    Day 3: Install everything!
    Day 4: Repair small leaks, random problems, make everything look nice
    Day 5: Tune

    That's obviously a rough guide, but it gives you an idea of the time it takes to finish this sort of a project if your car is a DD.

    The first thing you should do is install your turbo crossmember. Any 91-94 Legacy turbo crossmember will be a direct bolt-on. This is a pretty big install, so plan to do this ahead of time. An important note: The stock N/A headers won't clear the crossmember, so plan on using a set of Borla replicas (they clear the turbo crossmember), or just having your car offline while you put everything in. I don't have any pictures of this install, but just know that it involves unbolting the following:

    -engine mounts
    -steering rack
    -both control arms
    -swaybar
    -crossmember itself
    -U-joint to the steering wheel

    Here's what it looks like.






    Next thing to do is tap the valve cover for the turbo's oil drain. I used the 90 degree fitting, drilled a hole, then screwed it in with teflon tape. A rubber stopper went in the hose end so it wouldn't leak while I waited for other parts to come in. I used a 3/4" drill bit, then just screwed the fitting in.






    The next step is really only necessary if you have an 02-05 intercooler. The 06-07 TMIC's are much shorter an don't have fitment issues. Basically, this step involves grinding away part of the lip on the firewall, under the brake lines. I don't think there;s anything really structural, and grinding away a bit won't do much to weaken the unibody.

    Before, the firewall area looks like this:



    And after a bunch of cutting, grinding, and test fitting, it will look something like this:



    Make sure and spray on some clearcoat or something to keep the bare metal from rusting.

    You'll also need to shorten you clutch reservoir. This is easy, just take it off, cut it, deburr, then reinstall.

    Or, you can get a sweet JDM offset reservoir from a JDM BC Legacy. (photo credit: kimokalihi) They're kinda hard to find:



    You may choose to trim off the throttle body and outlet of the intercooler for more clearance. I did, and it makes the intercooler fit much nicer. It will still fit otherwise, but not nearly as nicely.



    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Main install:

    If you have access to a lift, or better yet, a pit, use it. Otherwise just put the car on jack stands.

    The most time consuming thing to do is re-routing the PCV, breather, and IACV lines. I don't have pictures of this, because I'm sure there's a better way to do it, but you'll need to get a T as close to the crankcase vent as possible, and make it very low, and flush to the rest of the stuff under the IACV. I made one line go under the passenger side intake manifold, looping up behind the power steering reservoir, then another under the throttle body, then around to T in with the breathers lines.

    I ran the breather lines on top of the engine, and used the stock T connector to combine them.

    For the IACV, I ran a short bit of hose to a 90" 3/4" barb elbow, which runs up to a fitting on the intake tube.

    Here's what my hoses look like, as an idea.




    Now, you can jack up the engine a bit, bend the power steering lines out of the way a bit, and install the manifold, using new gaskets. If you can, get ahold of one of the turbo suspending mounts, and bolt it on:






    UPDATE: I was dumb and used a plain heater hose for the oil drain line. It cannot hold up to the temp of the exhaust and oil, and had completely degraded after a few weeks. A SS line is highly recommended. Transmission hose would also work.







    Next up to tackle: the coolant lines. I tapped into the heater core lines, using the 2 3/4" to 1/2" tees.



    On the turbo, you need to cut the feed line in the middle so you can flip the top line back so it aims toward the firewall.



    The, run the 1/2" line around.




    Now, install your oil-feed lines. You can either use high-temp thread sealant for the fittings, or teflon tape. Either will work.

    There's a number of different ways to arrange your 1/8" brass tee, but I made mine like this, so it won't hit the alternator.




    Next, bolt up the downpipe of your choice.


    Here's what you'll have on the intake side:

    You'll need to trim the 2.25-2.5" intake coupler to let it clear the intake manifold. The 2.5" intake tube can also be cut to fit at this point. Drill the holes for the brass fittings, and install them as well.




    As you can see, the stock WRX y-pipe won't line up, so we have to extend it to meet the turbo. I wouldn't advise cutting the stock y-pipe and trying to make it seal with a coupler. Just get an aftermarket y-pipe, trust me.



    On the pressure side, you have to extend the y-pipe downward to meet the turbo outlet, using the extra 2" coupler and piece of pipe. Here's an idea:



    Now, you should have something like this at this point.



    Here's everything else mocked up:



    For your BOV/BPV, just bolt it on. My SSQV flange was a close fit:




    At this point, you're basically done! It's just a matter of clamping everything in place, and testing it out! I know I missed some important information, so I'll try and add it in as I remember. Don't forget to get an exhaust made/bolted on.


    Here's my finished product:




    Happy boosting.



    Update #1:

    I swapped out my IACV for an EJ22t version, which has a nifty 90 degree inlet that makes it way easier to route.



    I found that the EJ22t has a one-way valve in the little plate behind it that prevents boost from leaking. It swaps right over to the 25D manifold.



    Update #2

    I really hated how the intercooler sits really far back, and has to be all crooked due to the EGR valve.

    So, I did a couple modifications to make it sit nicer.

    First was chopping down the throttle body. I never use cruise control, so I just took all the pieces off the threaded rods (in order), the ran a die to create new threads, cut off the excess of the rods with a grinder, and put everything back together.

    On the throttle body itself, I just lopped off about an ~1.5 inches, then cut/dremeled out around the chunk of metal that holds the throttle plate arms.



    Comparison with stock throttle body to show differences:





    For the EGR valve, I just elongated the hole on the bottom towards the valve, then sliced open the one on the top so it can sit lower. Then, I ground down the metal where it would otherwise cover up the openings so as to not reduce flow.



    Update:

    At about 16 PSI, E85 or 330 CHP, this is what happens to the 25D rods:

  2. #2
    SLi nOOb
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    wow, tell it how it is brotha! Ill save this for the far future.

  3. #3
    t3h ub3r m3mber MRLancaster's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    So how much total lol

    And how reliable?
    Yes officer, I did hit a pedestrian, but instead of dwelling on that why not focus on how many I've missed?

  4. #4
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    It's as reliable as you make it. I put in about $800 so far.

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    t3h ub3r m3mber MRLancaster's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    And you didnt have to change the pistons or anything??? How much boost do you have?
    Yes officer, I did hit a pedestrian, but instead of dwelling on that why not focus on how many I've missed?

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    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Same engine as my other builds - stock. I'm running 13 psi on E85; it's all in the tuning.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    NFS makes it look so easy.

    Great writeups as always! I will never do this, but kudos to you for making it very clear.
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Nice man! Now put a vid with it for motivational purposes.
    TJ

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    A little bit of Wrx, a little bit of 2.5RS, a little bit of STi, a LOT of SVX!

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Now Im getting thoughts again to turbo my car, thanks haha. But good work, now time for some videos!

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    I need a camera mount. So you can all see the hood lift up when it spools: mostly due to the bad stock suspension.

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    t3h ub3r m3mber r3v_v3ng3's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    what are you using for engine management?

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Greddy Emanage Ultimate. It's one of the best piggybacks; I wouldn't trade it for anything.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    This is a good write up, I love it. I have a question though. In your first picture of the underside of your car, what is the orange goopy stuff between the exhaust headers and cylinder head?
    98 Legacy GT. Kartboy LW drive pulley, KB short throw shifter, KB front / rear shifter bushing kit, KB stainless shift knob, Cosmo Racing "Custom" CAI, SpeedyRacer (thermal taped) UEL, K&N cone filter, K&N Dry Filter, Exedy Street clutch, Fidanza LW flywheel, Group N engine mounts, GN pitchstop, GN rear diff armor, GN strut top hats, ebay front / rear strut bars, KYB GR2 struts, paranoid fabrication ground kit, N1 axleback. Falken Sincera tires, Konig Zero wheels, Brembo Rotors, Stoptech SP Pads, Lots of little custom mods. 160,000 miles.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Nice write up I was hoping you would do this.. I was thinking about doing this down the road but a EJ22 spare motor..

    one question.. well maybe two..

    What about the uppipe? and if you put a turbo crossmember on then that means NA headers wont fit?

    *edit well I answered my own question as far as the uppipe
    back
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    1 2
    Front

    97 Legacy Outback Wagon



    <--- 252,xxx miles!

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    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Turbo crossmember + stock N/A headers = sad face. Borla N/A headers do work.

    The orange stuff is copper RTV. It works well for temporary exhaust gaskets.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    This is awesome, I'll be using this next spring : )
    '03 Legacy BE

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Quote Originally Posted by anothernord
    Turbo crossmember + stock N/A headers = sad face. Borla N/A headers do work.

    The orange stuff is copper RTV. It works well for temporary exhaust gaskets.
    Copper RTV. Cool, thanks.
    98 Legacy GT. Kartboy LW drive pulley, KB short throw shifter, KB front / rear shifter bushing kit, KB stainless shift knob, Cosmo Racing "Custom" CAI, SpeedyRacer (thermal taped) UEL, K&N cone filter, K&N Dry Filter, Exedy Street clutch, Fidanza LW flywheel, Group N engine mounts, GN pitchstop, GN rear diff armor, GN strut top hats, ebay front / rear strut bars, KYB GR2 struts, paranoid fabrication ground kit, N1 axleback. Falken Sincera tires, Konig Zero wheels, Brembo Rotors, Stoptech SP Pads, Lots of little custom mods. 160,000 miles.

  18. #18
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Thanks for the write up! You really helped me with my build.

    Would you think front mount would be easier than top mount?
    -Dann
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  19. #19
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Noooo, the front mount it a way bigger undertaking. Go check the DIY for it.

    You basically just put the TMIC in the engine bay, and trim bits here and there, if you need to.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    I'd like to see what kind of power you're making with this. How's it feel?

  21. #21
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    It should be somewhere around stock STi power, at least at it's peak. I've ridden in "Stage 2" WRX's that felt like dog in comparison.

    It feels like a warp drive is kicking in around 3100 RPM. It tapers off quite a lot past 4500 though. Hence the need for a larger turbo.

  22. #22
    SLi nOOb Drakien's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Just a question about tuning, did you use the same piggy back from your S/C setup or are you running this without a tune?
    -Dann
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  23. #23
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Yep, same Emanage. This setup would not be good to run without a tune.

  24. #24
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Added in some stuff on coolant lines, and engine management.

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    id like to see a dyno sheet on this thing

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    did you do anything to your fuel rail? i've read on other rails, they do a parallel mod on it but i don't know if the ej25d needs it. also i see in the pic that you have the stock fuel regulator and wondering if an adjustable one is needed. thanks

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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    I'm going to turbo my 99 Legacy Brighton with single port EJ22.

    Here is the parts list for my setup

    Walbro 255
    02 WRX up pipe, down pipe and cat-back
    02 TMIC and oem bpv
    02 WRX turbo
    WRX crossmember
    12:1 FMU
    manaul boost controller
    wideband o2, boost gauge and oil temp gauge

    try to keep 5-6psi with out EM

    just want to see that the WRX crossmember is direct bolt on or not and the turbo swaybar is really needed??

  28. #28
    t3h ub3r m3mber Garrison's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Why 12:1 on the FMU?

    Quote Originally Posted by BG5
    I'm going to turbo my 99 Legacy Brighton with single port EJ22.

    Here is the parts list for my setup

    Walbro 255
    02 WRX up pipe, down pipe and cat-back
    02 TMIC and oem bpv
    02 WRX turbo
    WRX crossmember
    12:1 FMU
    manaul boost controller
    wideband o2, boost gauge and oil temp gauge

    try to keep 5-6psi with out EM

    just want to see that the WRX crossmember is direct bolt on or not and the turbo swaybar is really needed??
    I've been to boost and back again my friends... and it was good

  29. #29
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    Quote Originally Posted by BG5
    I'm going to turbo my 99 Legacy Brighton with single port EJ22.

    Here is the parts list for my setup

    Walbro 255
    02 WRX up pipe, down pipe and cat-back
    02 TMIC and oem bpv
    02 WRX turbo
    WRX crossmember
    12:1 FMU
    manaul boost controller
    wideband o2, boost gauge and oil temp gauge

    try to keep 5-6psi with out EM

    just want to see that the WRX crossmember is direct bolt on or not and the turbo swaybar is really needed??
    WRX crossmembers have wider control arm spots, requiring spacers, and the steering rack is different*. Get a Legacy Turbo crossmember; it's a simple bolt-on.

    Ditch the aftermarket FPR. I don't know where people got the idea that those were the most awesome thing in the world to use, but it's about the most ghetto way to control your fuel possible. If you're getting a $150 wideband, you might as well get at least a S-AFC to control fuel.

    I never messed with my fuel rail. If you're engine is that high-strung that a minute difference in fueling is going to hurt something, you'd need to rethink your whole tune.

  30. #30
    t3h ub3r m3mber Garrison's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: Turbo your car

    You'll be happy to know that I just tapped my valve cover today (following your instructions)
    And since I had to replace the valve cover gasket, I did that as well.

    Scared myself a bit with the position of the oil drain fixture (same as yours, but I had trouble sliding it back down into position); but I figured it out. I had to go sideways, rear to front, sliding the valve cover across the side of the engine.
    Thanks again for the great how-to!
    I've been to boost and back again my friends... and it was good

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