"Overheating"

[Okin DaVanh]

That is where the temp gauge stays if you let it idle until it is warm?!?!?!?
That seems way too low...

Yep. I thought so too.

Have you confirmed that there is a problem and it is not just the gauge throwing you off? Does coolant overfill the reservoir when it overheats? I think that you should try and find a scantool that you can borrow and look at the temps that the computer is seeing.

Look for the time to get up to temp , how well it maintains that temp, the temp that the fan(s) turn on, and the temp that it reaches under certain conditions (city driving, highway driving, idling, ect) This will allow you to tell more specifically when the problem occurs, and how bad it actually is. It will also give you a basis as to the amount that you should rely on your temp gauge on your dash.

-I do still have coolant spitting out, but that now happens after a highway run.
-It warms up fine, and starts to throw warm heat after 5 mins or so.
-And I will try to get a scanner to run it under.
I was thinking my next step should be the Coolant Temp. Switch. but will still test it through the scanner (hoping I get 1 to use) and see what i come up with.

Aaarrrgggghhhhhhhh... I read this from beginning to end over a couple days... I HATE these hidden probs. good luck man!

You're telling me! Look at the date this all started and add a week or 2 before then, and you'll have the last time I REALLYdrove this car!! :smt009

[CORVAIRWILD]

I wonder if my radiator pressure tester would reveal anything? Sometimes the FLAPS will lend certain tools out... My tester could pressurize the cooling system, and it reveals any leaks. Obviously, internal leaks are hidden, but the dropping pressure needle shows a leak. I've used it on a variety of vehicles, and it's certainly a useful tool.
What about some dye that discolors when subject to combustion gas? Or am I imagining something?

[Okin DaVanh]

I did the "Sniff" test (chemical in turkey baste looking set up) and it turned up no fumes in coolant. However, I didn't (was almost about to) do a pressure test.

I'm under the impression that since my fan doesn't come on when it's supposed to, and when it does, both come on... that I should still change the coolant temp sensor. I'm also thinking that there might be an air pocket where that sensor is, due to me changing the temp sender a week or so before this started.

[CORVAIRWILD]

Your "monitor" says "offline" Hmmm....

[Okin DaVanh]

Your "monitor" says "offline" Hmmm....

I know somebody who knew somebody, who seen somebody...

[mshriver]

So two things Im thinking...

Have you tried the same highway test with the AC on? Doesnt have to be cold air but like your heat turned to just defrost. This should cause your fans to be running and you would know if it was a fan issue.

Secondly? have we ruled out a faulty sensor / gauge? I only thought of this when you posted the picture of the low operating temperature. That needle should be dead in the middle at operating temp. It would suck to go replacing all this stuff when it was never really overheating at all.

[harrymaneuvers]

Let me know if you need a scanner... I can doughnate some $$$ and get you a bluetooth OBD2 reader as long as you have an android phone.

[CORVAIRWILD]

I dunno if I'll ever get used to this electronic crap...

And I'm not able to post pix... I re-sized to small, but overcapacity message, or something. do I have to pay dues?

[CORVAIRWILD]

I re-sized to 66KB, and this is the mssg...>>>Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached.<<<

[harrymaneuvers]

@ Corvairwild... go sign up for a photobucket account... its free. It will be the best thing you did in a while.

Once you have uploaded the photos you want to photobucket... then you can just embed them in a post. You just right click the image (from the hosted site like photobucket) and copy "image URL"


Then when you are posting on forums (like SL-i.net) you open up the full editor (not just a quick reply) and click the "Img" button next to the text options.


This will give you a command in which to paste the image url from photobucket. I am going to put it in quotes so you can see what it looks like:

"[img]THIS%20IS%20WHERE%20YOU%20PASTE%20THE%20IMAGE%20URL[/img]"


You can attach photos from anywhere on the internet like this... go to google images and search for something... then once you find the picture on a website... right click, copy the image url and paste it into the forum message like I stated above... BOOM DONE and you didnt even have to upload anything to photobucket.

For the most part, doing it this way, you can put much larger photos in posts because the Forum isnt actually hosting the picture (and taking up space).

[CORVAIRWILD]

I have a PB account, and the last time I used it, several yrs ago, it said I was at my limit, of some sort, and I havn't looked since. But I agree, I need it for CL ads, etc... We're planning a weekend trip to drop off my California Suburban (diesel 4x4) to a body shop 300 miles away, and was going to pk up my 1998 OB 250 the other way, and tow it back, and it 's gonna snow in Connecticut, and we're rite now planning a trip to Florida next month and stopping at the Biltmore Estate on the way home, using up airline credits I've accumulated from trips gone bad/cancelled. and I have to get my passport, and finish welding up the Subby tow bar adapter... MY usual busy day!

[Okin DaVanh]

So two things Im thinking...

Have you tried the same highway test with the AC on? Doesnt have to be cold air but like your heat turned to just defrost. This should cause your fans to be running and you would know if it was a fan issue.

Secondly? have we ruled out a faulty sensor / gauge? I only thought of this when you posted the picture of the low operating temperature. That needle should be dead in the middle at operating temp. It would suck to go replacing all this stuff when it was never really overheating at all.

1st- Yes I did, and it will NOT overheat.
2nd-That gauge does rise to mid and even to the shaded mark next to the "H" level.
I got a video of some of it's shenanigans. I'll post them when I get settled in. Shows the elevating of the needle and both fans etc...

[Okin DaVanh]

Didn't upload the video yet, but I did manage to get a Solus hooked up to it. At 203 degrees, both fans would kick on.

As of Friday, it now has:

New radiator
New Thermostat
New Coolant Temp. sensor
New Temp. Sending sensor
Waterpump replaced
Burped.

[02_Legacy]

As of Friday, it now has:

New radiator
New Thermostat
New Coolant Temp. sensor
New Temp. Sending sensor
Waterpump replaced
Burped.

As long as you did a good job getting all the air out and you are sure there are no leaks, that pretty much leaves one thing... I think we all know what it is.

[mshriver]

Didn't upload the video yet, but I did manage to get a Solus hooked up to it. At 203 degrees, both fans would kick on.

As of Friday, it now has:

New radiator
New Thermostat
New Coolant Temp. sensor
New Temp. Sending sensor
Waterpump replaced
Burped.

So is it still overheating?

[CORVAIRWILD]

Pressure tester???

[Okin DaVanh]

So is it still overheating?

If i drive with the defrost on, I'm good for city driving. If I don't, It will go from where it is to the middle and if I throw the defrost on, it will return to the mark it runs at which is the 1/4 mark. If I take it on the freeway/highway, after 15 mins or so, when I exit, it will also start to creep up and then begin to back flow into the overflow, at which time I pull over and let it cool down then fill it following something like this:




pop the cap/fill it/ squeeze the top hose to burp/top off/ barely twist cap back on/ fire up car/remove cap again/ top off radiator while running (heat off at 1st, but in heat position) throttle car up to 2500-3000 rpm and watch bubbles flow up/ release throttle and turn heat on full blast/ then fill/burp hose again/ repeat til I have a flow of antifreeze going inside the radiator/ Cap and drive. The failsafe or both fans don't come on until they reach 203 degrees, parked and jacked up in the front after I did this to it too.

Pressure tester???

That's next on the agenda. Even tho I did a sniffer test on it, I might as well try.

[subleg69]

i had a simular problem after changing the thermostat, rad, rad cap, water pump, timming tensioner, nothing worked. had the head gasket changed 15k ago. tearing the motor out pretty sure its a cracked head. a shop ran all the tests they could and nothing worked or came back with any answers.

[mshriver]

So is it still overheating?

If i drive with the defrost on, I'm good for city driving. If I don't, It will go from where it is to the middle and if I throw the defrost on, it will return to the mark it runs at which is the 1/4 mark.

Every Subaru I have ever owned run in the middle of the temp guage. Its never stopped at the 1/4 mark. So not sure if its a good thing your car is running cooler or a weird thing.

If I take it on the freeway/highway, after 15 mins or so, when I exit, it will also start to creep up and then begin to back flow into the overflow,

This sounds eerily like a HG issue