02_Legacys Supercharger build 6/16 oops :-(

[02_Legacy]

hmm I do like the idea of an 03-04 bumper cover, the vehicle will be getting resprayed sometime in the future so maybe it will happen then, as for currently, if anything I may enlarge the middle hole so that it is a high as the one on the side. However I am not messing with my bumper reinforcement beam or anything in that area. I actually don't think that it is too bad, everything except the section where the bumper beam is should be getting a good flow of air through it. I will keep an eye on my intake temps and decide what needs to happen from there. I am also thinking of wiring the fan that is right behind it to a switch so that in town/ stop and go traffic I can keep the fan on which will draw air through it.

I will have an update after this weekend. It is the first time in a while that I have a freeish weekend so that I can work on it. The IAC valve should be done this weekend, I am planning on getting the pipe from the S/C to the I/C (lol) made on Monday. Then I just have to fab up something to hold the throttle and cruse cables and then everything will be coming apart for powder coating.

[02_Legacy]

man I suck at updating this thread. Last weekend I did end up getting the IACV plumbed in and I also made the bracket to hold the throttle and cruse cables. I got the pipe made on friday at a local shop ($77 ) Sorry no pics of any of this because it all went over to a friends to get sandblasted and powder coated.

Just did some small stuff today. finally permanently wired up the water pump for my AWIC, ran the wire for the S/C clutch, and painted some small stuff.

Now I have to wait for my parts to come back (he said it may be a couple weeks) In the meantime I am going to start making up a map for the emanage so that I can get this thing fired up as soon as I get it back

[lord flashheart]

I'm super interested in this. I would love to see some dyno numbers.

[02_Legacy]

Ya I'm definitely planning on getting it on a dyno when I get it running good. There is a place with an AWD dyno jet an hour away from here that will do 3 pulls for $110.
Anyway I started attempting to make my map for the EMU and the resolution of the 3-bar MAP sensor was not good enough. So I somehow managed to find someone parting out a Grand Prix GTP 5 mins away. so tomorrow I will be picking up a 2-bar MAP sensor and pigtail for $20. Hopefully I will have better luck with it.

[lord flashheart]

I really like the idea of a supercharger build, just for the sake of being different. I really want to supercharge my wires car lol.. and my 4runner. That's not a bad price for 3 pulls. Why was the 3 bar not clear enough? Was it just a cheapo one or what? Anyways I really like your set up. The more I see the 3rd hens the more I like em

[02_Legacy]

I got the 2 bar instead of the 3 bar simply because the 2 bar is more practical. The 3 bar divides 5v into 42PSI (14psi of vacuum and 28 psi of boost) a 2 bar divides 5v into 14psi of vacuum and 14 psi of boost. So it is simply easier to tune when each psi is represented by .2 volts instead of .1 plus I wouldn't be using much of the 3-bar range since I am shooting for 6 psi.

Do you ever do any tuning lord? I am starting to make a map for the EMU and am wondering what A/F ratios I should be targeting. Here is what I have right now. And anyone who knows anything about this can give me any information I am a total noob when it comes to tuning.

The middle map is target A/F ratio based on rpm (top) and MAP voltage (Left side). 2.30v represents 0psi relative and then every row after that increases by 1psi. Let me know what you think.

[lord flashheart]

um yes and no, ive done a bit of tuning, but im not even slightly familer with the greddy systems.

if i had to guess, i would say thats a pretty rich map. from what i understand you want it to be right around 12 thru the majority of the map, but get a smidge richer in the peak torque area of the engine because thats where your peak VE will be. but this depends on the ignition map as well. i usually set target for 12 then add a little timing, check it, add some timing, check it. etc. then when your start to ping, i back it down a few degrees.
i always learned "leaner is meaner" you want it to be as lean as possible with out hurting the engine, which is about 12-12.5:1 then use timing to bring in the power.
but i am a noob as well and have only worked with stand alones.

[02_Legacy]

So shame on me for not updating this more, but... I'v got boost!!! Not without issues though, when I moved the TB to before the supercharger I found that I have vacuum leaks all over the place. So much so that I am not using any iac right now (the passage is blocked off). I was idling at 2k rpm at first, I have chased down some of them and it is now down to 1k rpm idle with no IAC. second, I do not think my EMU is effecting a/f ratios at all during boost, and I do not know why this is but until I get it corrected I am pretty leery about getting on it too much. So its a work in progress but school and work are slowing me down quite a bit. I will try to get some final pics of everything mounted and in place one of these days.

[chuckthefuk]

Thanks for the update.

[mlitz]

um yes and no, ive done a bit of tuning, but im not even slightly familer with the greddy systems.

if i had to guess, i would say thats a pretty rich map. from what i understand you want it to be right around 12 thru the majority of the map, but get a smidge richer in the peak torque area of the engine because thats where your peak VE will be. but this depends on the ignition map as well. i usually set target for 12 then add a little timing, check it, add some timing, check it. etc. then when your start to ping, i back it down a few degrees.
i always learned "leaner is meaner" you want it to be as lean as possible with out hurting the engine, which is about 12-12.5:1 then use timing to bring in the power.
but i am a noob as well and have only worked with stand alones.

12 is a good number for power... I personally would shoot for 11-11.5:1 and see if you can run a little more timing; or see if you can run 12 with less timing just depends on hp numbers and when and where you see knock. Might try to run VD in the background while you are doing your pulls to get some sort of hp number to work with and see what is making more power. Just remember to go slow and make tiny adjustments, don't get excited or to comfortable and make a mistake.
Also are you running a knock light? might not be a bad investment or at least get someone to help you tune to just watch the computer even if they know nothing about cars tell them that if this colored line (point at the knock signal on the graph) moves at all while I am doing a pull tell me to stop!
Also there is no need to do 4th gear pulls on the street (to dangerous), a full 3ed to 4th then let off will give you a very good street tune until you can afford a dyno tune if you decide to go that route.

[lord flashheart]

Yeah on higher boost engines we stick around 11.5 but with lower boost engines and n/a applications ill do 12.


so wtf guy. We need pictures and videos.

[02_Legacy]

Oops, I took pics of the finished product a while ago but I guess I forgot to post them here (don't hate on my welds, they do the job lol)






As far as progress, I haven't done much recently, between classes and work I have little time to work on my car. I fixed the vacuum leak issues and now have a normal idle with the IAC hooked up. It is still not really tuned, I am having issues with my plan to force the vehicle into open loop and I think it may have to do with the diode that I installed. I need to pull the passenger foot well apart to get to the ECU so I can take a look but have been putting it off.
It works OK for the time being but it has issues with the transition from vacuum to boost. If I just mash the pedal the ECU freaks out and cuts all fuel. If I baby it a little and slowly transition from vacuum to boost the fuel catches up with the extra air and then it takes off. So there are issues that need to be worked out but this issue is my schedule, I just don't have the time right now.

[02_Legacy]

Well I haven't updated this much, truthfully that is because I haven't done much. Everything had been going well until today. I was out beating on my car and all of a sudden it was misfiring. I limped it home, which wasn't far, and pulled the codes. There was a cylinder 4 misfire. The coolant overflow bottle was filled to the top and air bubbles were being pushed out the tube from the radiator. I took the rad cap off and started the engine and gases were visibly coming out of the radiator
So I am going to do the headgaskets but I was wondering what you guys thought about using thicker than normal headgaskets from cometic. I know this would lower compression, but I dont know if thicker gaskets would it be less prone to failure or more likely to fail. Any input on this? Also anyone know the thickness of stock headgaskets?
Thanks for any help.

[02_Legacy]

been doing some more thinking and research and only have more questions now lol, any help is appreciated.
1) I noticed that on cometics site they have MLX style headgaskets that are supposed to seal around the cylinder better, but no thickness is listed for these. Any opinions on them?
2)Anyone ever try changing headgaskets in the vehicle? I am temped to only change the left side without pulling the engine sense that would save a lot of time. Is this a bad idea? If I only did one side I would probably do it without pulling the engine but I would pull the engine to do both sides. I did just do the headgaskets about 20K miles ago because they were externally leaking.

Thanks for any input.

[unsullied_spy]

Doing the head gaskets in the car is doable but very difficult. It is best to remove the engine. Fortunately the engine is easy to take out.

[Garrison]

Doing the head gaskets in the car is doable but very difficult. It is best to remove the engine.

Fortunately the engine is easy to take out.

+1

[lord flashheart]

the head gaskets are lpretty thin. if i were you i would put the stock STi gasket on there they are a bit thicker. dont go too thick on the HG cuz the manifold wont line up if you do.