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Thread: Replacing premium sub under seat

  1. #1
    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Replacing premium sub under seat

    I want to start working on the audio portion of my car.

    I want to replace the sub under my seat. Is there any subs that arent bad, that will fit under the seat just like the stock one? I may want to get two, put one under each front seat.
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

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    I'm looking for the same thing buddy
    Rick
    1995 Legacy
    2008 Legacy

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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    i found a powered one on crutchfield, not too sure about it though...

    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CVW0w22FrH ... W1&g=51000

    edit: i also noticed i said "deat" in the subject
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    that looks pretty good.

    There's also a Clarion sub that's not nearly as powerful, but has decent output that is a definite fit under the seat (I measured, decided to go with the Bazooka bass tube instead, love it).

    However, the tube doesn't fit under a seat, but it is easily removed.

    Oh, and at that price, you might want to check out the infinity basslinks. They're not under-seat, but they would tuck between the wheel well and the rear of the car fairly nicely, and they're excellent subs with great output. The infinity has one active woofer and one passive (both 10") with 250 watts RMS. They have a much more dynamic frequency range than the Kenwood does.
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    ouch, I may hold off on buying a sub if itll cost that much for a nice one

    maybe I'll go the OEM route

    edit: note: I have no woofer, so the OEM would be an improvement
    Rick
    1995 Legacy
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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    save your pennies, and don't get the OEM, it sucks. Those aren't that expensive, honestly, a good amp is usually around that price, not to mention enclosures and subs. If I could redo it, I would get the infinity basslink.
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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    save your pennies, and don't get the OEM, it sucks. Those aren't that expensive, honestly, a good amp is usually around that price, not to mention enclosures and subs. If I could redo it, I would get the infinity basslink.
    hey man, it's better than the system in my old 96 accord
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Maybe so, but it's not a good investment, IMO.

    I'm a sound perfectionist though, I've got an Eclipse Deck and 4 speakers as well as JL tweeters, and the bass tube.
    ~Mark [SLi Admin]
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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    Maybe so, but it's not a good investment, IMO.
    I do agree. I think I'm going to go with a headunit first. Only problem is my 2 DIN radio and my 1ish DIN 6 cd changer. not sure what to do about that...
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

  10. #10
    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    convert the center console between the seats into a CD changer holder. It would be a creative, and cool project.
    ~Mark [SLi Admin]
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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    convert the center console between the seats into a CD changer holder. It would be a creative, and cool project.
    i dont really use cds... i have a 40gb ipod and xm radio, so i basically trashed all of my cds after ripping them
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

  12. #12
    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    screw it, i'm getting a couple of these:

    http://www.cardomain.com/item/BAZNOS6

    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    well, the NOS part is tacky, but Bazooka makes a good, cheap sub. You look at the power rating and it looks weak, but they're sensitive subs, and it doesn't take much power to drive them.
    ~Mark [SLi Admin]
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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    well, the NOS part is tacky, but Bazooka makes a good, cheap sub. You look at the power rating and it looks weak, but they're sensitive subs, and it doesn't take much power to drive them.
    It was sarcasm. No NOS bass for me thank you.
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

  15. #15
    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    well, I was suggesting one of the normal Bazooka tubes instead. I knew you were joking.
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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark
    well, I was suggesting one of the normal Bazooka tubes instead. I knew you were joking.
    Ok

    If I cant find a good under the seat one, I guess I'll have to go with a normal one, or a tube. Might be cheaper anyways...
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

  17. #17
    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    if you go trunk system, the basslink or a Bazooka tube would be good options (they can be stored fairly out of the way, easy to remove)
    ~Mark [SLi Admin]
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    BTW, I found that Kenwood on ebay for almost half the price that Crutchfield wants for it.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW1-DUA ... dZViewItem
    98 GT Wagon

  19. #19
    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakmobile
    BTW, I found that Kenwood on ebay for almost half the price that Crutchfield wants for it.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW1-DUA ... dZViewItem
    Hmmm thanks.
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

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    stupid question 1: do I need an amp to get a sub?

    stupid question 2: How hard is it to run the wire to the trunk for a sub?
    Rick
    1995 Legacy
    2008 Legacy

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    "FNG" tekkitan's Avatar
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    Not a stupid question! I am not an audio person myself, so I really don't know

    I look forward to the answer.
    2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited
    -Cobb cold air intake
    -Whiteline rear 20-22-24mm adj. sway
    -Borla headers
    -NGK Iridium plugs
    -Powerslot slotted cryo rotors
    -Hawk HPS street pads

  22. #22
    "FNG" The Deej's Avatar
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    audio

    You do need a amp to push a sub, but there are alot of units are out there with on-board power. The Infinty bass link is a great sounding set up, my friend has a leg with one in the trunk, its not too much, but it does what it needs to. Any set-up is going to involve laying wire though. Its not hard to do the wiring. I did all mine, it really depends on what kind of watts your looking to push. I have a 1000 watt amp hooked up to two Apline tens. A little over kill, but i like it. I also have the OEM sub under my seat, IMO its not worth what Subaru prices it at, but would be willing to part with it if some one wants a little extra for there car. The wiring is simple, if you know what your doing. Its almost cheaper to get it done by a place like Car Toys or Best Buy, i dont know. I have burned out a couple cars wiring screwing with stereo, guess i learned by "Trial by Fire"
    Drive it like you stole it.

  23. #23
    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Everything the Deej said.

    Any sub needs a amp with some real power to run it. I'd suggest for simplicity sake that you get a powered sub (which means the amp is built into the enclosure) if you're looking to save space.

    to answer question #2:
    https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=465
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