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Thread: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

  1. #181
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    OK....Update?

    So this wagon has since gone from running great to running ok with a check engine light. Missfire codes Cyl. 1,3 and 4. Also the occasional EGR codes and Catalyst codes. The rack has torn and leaking boots...the exhaust is rusted from manifold to tail pipe beyond repair...both front axle boots are torn and axles are bone dry and rusty inside...and last but certainly not least ...I am pretty sure the "oil separator" plate on the back of the block is pissing oil. Everything is wet and I have to keep an eye on the oil level.

    Anyway who cares this thread is about the Legacy GT limited not the rust bucket daily driver! With that being said....I have decided to junk the wagon. Not without keeping a few goodies of course. By goodies I mean MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Yes it is old, yes it needs to be resealed but it only makes sense. I have been waiting to do the trans swap on the auto leggy since day one and now i have the opportunity with almost every major component I need sitting right there waiting to be had. I have gone too long without any of my projects moving forward. Its time...

    From what I understand thus far; I will be keeping the trans, rear diff, and hydraulic parts from the wagon. I already sourced a pedal assembly so I wont need that and the front axles are trashed so I wont be keeping those either. I will need to purchase a clutch kit that includes a fly wheel, front axles, and a drive shaft because I believe the drive shaft in the wagon will be slightly too long. If I am not mistaken the 5mt out of the outback should fit without issue and the X-member should bolt right up as well. I am using the outback rear diff. to pair the gear ratios being as the auto trans and diff. use different ratios which should also bolt up with no problem. I belive installing the pedal assembly and clutch master should be hassle free because from what I have read the firewall already has a cut out for the manual swap it just uses a rubber plug in that location for the autos. If you are wondering why I havn't just looked at my own firewall to make sure the rubber plugged hole is there it is because the car is hibernating. It is under a car cover in the back of my garage which is hard to get to. (I somehow fit 2 cars in a 1 car garage to hibernate over winter)

    As far as what I will be driving...I am currently shopping. Looking at getting something like a 06-08 outback with generally low mileage with a 5mt. Something that is a bit healthier than this 800 purchase. I need to have a newer safer vehicle for the newest addition to the family. My first child was born on this past Christmas and he has been a blessing. A future Suby fanatic in the making!

    So in conclusion of this post...does anyone one have any tips for my next mission?

    Is it 100% certain fact that my drive shaft will not swap from the outback into the gt sedan?

    Will the cross member fit directly on without modification?

    Does any one have any helpful links?

    Does anyone need anything from the Outback that I will be junking? It is 1998 Outback all weather package...let me know


    And lastly...I have been doing a lot of searching as you can imagine and I have noticed that Photobucket has ruined tons of forums out there. Thousands of pictures not showing up in some very informative threads. Is there a fix for this? It would be such a shame to not have any pictures from past writeups. Are my own pictures even showing up in this thread?

  2. #182
    "FNG"
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    I found this on NASIOC of all places and its been super helpful:
    to fix your photobucket photos, you just add ~original after .jpg. It starts out looking like this when the photos are broken: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg[/IMG]

    It ends up like this: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg~original[/IMG]

    And some of mine had some weird numbers in between the .jpg and [/IMG] like this:
    /subysmashedup378.jpg?t=1257112242[/IMG]



    From the other end, if you're using Chrome, there's an extension that fixes the images as well.
    https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...giikdkpmcpkaon

  3. #183
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Admiral snackbar that was very helpful info. thank you! What a shame Photobucket would do something like this. Also....that is a a great username.



    Before I could start my quest to "gear shifting" I had to find a replacement vehicle for my daily driver. As stated in the last post I was prepared to spend a bit more to have a safe ride for my new born son. With a little bit of patience and persuasion the new daily was found. A clean 2006 Legacy Wagon with 45k miles! Clean carfax, no rust, 5MT and such low mileage...I had to have it. Only problem was...the wife ended up liking it more than myself! It is newer and far more spacious then the daily driver she had (05 Impreza Outback Sport 5MT) and so we made a trade. She got the new 06 wagon and I took the 05 Impreza as my daily. I just replaced the clutch (in the Impreza) and I guess you could say I'm not complaining...but man I love that 06 wagon! So clean and still has that new car smell! Anyway here is a few pics before I move on.








    Having two healthy daily drivers for us meant it was a big green light for the tear down on the 98 outback. It sure as hell was not easy. When I first purchased the vehicle I had gotten it undercoated to help prevent any further rust. Whether that helped or not I do not know but I can say that the LF control arm was so severely rusted I could have broke it with a couple hits of a carpenter's hammer! The undercoating made everything a bitch to remove! Every damn bolt had a thick coating of black, disgusting, sticky shit all over it. And guess which other car has been undercoated....yeah the GT... Regardless of the copious amounts of tar on the outback I got her done. I removed; axles, rear diff, transmission, flywheel, clutch cover/pressure plate, clutch cylinder, slave cylinder, drive shaft, and obviously shifter linkage. The shifter arms where pretty rusty so I did a bit of sanding and painting on those and I plan on doing the same to the differential. The axle boots were torn not to mention I buggered up the ends with a hammer trying to get them free so axles will have to be replaced. I have resealed the tail shaft of the transmission along with the access panel on the top. Now when I took it apart I found gaskets. Instead of replacing gaskets I decided to use the red sealant we use at work (Toyota dealer). It is a lot like the Fujibond stuff and it used mainly to seal transmission cases anyway so I don't see that being a problem. I did however use WAY too much but I doubt that will cause any problems either.

    Under the knife...FINALLY!


    Here is that crusty ass LF control arm. Anyone still rockin these old outbacks be warned this is a rust problem area along with the rear strut towers!


    Here is what it looked like when I pulled it out. Dirty, rusty, and ugly. You may even ask yourself "Why is he even bothering using such an old high mileage piece of junk 5MT?" Well the truth is I am doing it because it is going to be cheap. Let's not forget the auto currently in the GT is slipping like crazy...and who actually wants to drive an automatic Subaru anyway. My wife doesn't even drive an auto...




    You can see how the leaking oil separator plate left oil residue all over the bell housing. The whole thing was very difficult to clean and the end result is no where near perfect like it was on my 4Runner trans. swap...but IIRC I used some kind of steam cleaner on the 4Runner trans...this time around I used endless amounts of brake cleaner.



    While I was working on the trans. and getting it cleaned up I had it standing up on a spare rim inside of a kiddie pool. This helped keep it stable without damaging the shaft and also kept the mess contained. I used a rubber glove to cover the seal so no brake clean/degreaser got into the transmission.



    So like I said I used way too much sealant here but I am not too worried about it.



    One nice surprise was a broken Shifter Bracket on the back of the trans. Two of the three mounting holes were broken and the previous owner decided to weld it back together. Well the welds did not allow it to sit flush and it was missing a bolt. Not to mention the ugly ass welds did'nt hold anyway. I ordered a replacement for $15 part number: 35033AA022

    Here is a pic of the old broken one.



    Here is a pic. of the new one Installed.



    Here is what it looks like now after a little cleaning and resealing. Like I said not perfect but much better. I am assuming this will be replaced in a few years anyway given it has approx. 200k+ miles





    I went ahead and bought a new dust cover for the shift fork ($20) because the old one was gone, aside from a crunchy little lip that was barley hanging on. Here is a pic for anyone still paying attention? I also ordered a new shifter return spring. Actually seeing as almost every 5MT is missing this piece I ordered 4 of them. They are like $1.25 each.




    I pulled a few misc. pieces as well such as keyless entry module with fob (no pics) and also this hood scoop. The newer one being on bottom.



    So along the way I managed to pick up a few goodies!

    Kartboy shifter bushings front



    Kartboy shifter bushing rear



    I sanded and painted the whole crossmember and purchased RalliTEK crossmember mount bushings and a Group N transmission mount! If your wondering why it looks so shitty it's the undercoating. I wanted to install these tonight but there was soooooo many mosquitos in the garage tonight.....ffuuuccckkk that.



    Here is a shot of the shifter arms after light sanding and painting with the front Kartboy bushings.



    Last but not least I picked up this Prodrive Axle back Oval Tip exhaust. I am not sure if it will be bolt on or if I will have to Adjust or replace the hangars. Anyone know if it's a direct fit?? I will test fit when I have the old exhaust out for the 5MT install.








    I was almost teary eyed...but not really.lol As you can see I removed the brand new tires that were on there and installed some Prius tires from work.



    Things to ponder...

    Will the outback drive shaft work in my GT?

    The rear axles came out without the locking clips on the ends...will this be a problem?

    Will the red sealant work as good or better?

    Will that exhaust be direct fit or will it need to be modified in some way?

    By the way I've come this far all on my own. I used some large tow straps to help lower the transmission without dropping it and it was a struggle but I got it done. I am thinking I may need some help with the automatic seeing as it is a LOT bigger.

    Anyone have any input? questions? helpful tips?...I'm all ears..errr eyes...

    Goodbye Outback you will be missed...but organ donors save lives.


    -RONI-
    Last edited by AssYriaNrocKer; 05-31-2018 at 03:34 AM.

  4. #184
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Today I had time to throw on the Group N transmission mount and the RalliTEK crossmember bushings. When I removed the old bushings I noticed 1 pair was installed wrong. Instead of being on either side of the crossmember they were placed on the same side on top of each other...strange. Mosquitos are still out in full force so after that I pulled the GT in and called it a day. These mosquitos are going to be a battle now that its warm out.

    Group N on left original on right.


    RalliTEK crossmember bushings installed with Group N trans. mount. I got the "soft" bushings opposed to the "hard" Judging by how soft the originals were I am positive it will make a huge difference. The old ones were as soft as a sponge!


    I am ready to start tearing into this thing. Should be fun... The wagon was kind of easy because I knew it was going to the junkyard so everything got a taste of the hammer. This time I will be a bit more...gentle.

    I may have a connection on a better shape bumper locally. It is the same paint code...hopefully the shade is the same. Then again anything will look better then the current scratched, chipped, bent, and low hanging bumper that is on there now!


    I will give her a good cleaning before I start....just for motivation purposes. I will do my best to take pictures and update this page along the way.

    -RONI-

  5. #185
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Remember kids, always unbolt the torque convertor when removing an automatic trans!

    Look at the size difference here. That is one giant magical shifting box...and only 4 damn gears to. I have a spare 4:44 differential now if anyone is interested.



    Currently I have all parts in hand and ready to be installed. The old stuff for the auto is all out as well. If you need any of the parts I am not using just let me know. On another note I am surprised by how tight the flex plate bolts are. I'm sure there is loctite on there but still seems really tight. I brought my breaker bars home today and will get them off tomorrow some time. Tomorrow I will also install the pedal assembly.

    Yesterday I picked up a replacement bumper. I really dislike the small black portion that is under the headlights but actually I see it on a lot of these legacys. The bumper is not perfect but it will look 100 times better then whats currently on the car.

    -RONI-


  6. #186
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Since I had such a hard time dropping the auto trans I decided it might be a good idea to replace the rear main seal. I wondered if all the trans/engine movement flexed the seal and started a leak. I was debating at first but sure enough there was a drip of fresh oil behind the flex plate. I decided since I have it in stock anyway I might as well throw it on. After that and a little cleaning I threw on the freshly cut flywheel. Of course I forgot to take any pics of this.

    I removed the bumper to have better access to the auto transmission cooling lines that I needed to remove and cap off. I threw the old bumper in the shed for the time being...anyone need it?...It's ugly.... I got the lines out and capped off the ends from the radiator.


    Getting the new brake and clutch pedal assembly in was not the easiest thing that's for sure. If you are using the cable type shifter it would be a lot easier but I'm using the hydraulic setup, that came from the outback, which uses an extension rod that has to be routed behind the steering column to reach the clutch master cylinder. After moving a few wires and modules it is possible I promise. The TCU is also in this area by the brake pedal and I have left it plugged in for now. From my understanding there is a plug for cruise, one for ABS, and one for the trans. I am not 100% on this so I left it plugged in for now.


    Cant wait to see a shifter here...


    Next I will finish installing the clutch kit and throw in the rear diff. along with the trans and driveshaft. I still need to get some front axles...I may or may not have a connect on some used front axles for cheap.


    That's all for today.

    -RONI-

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