Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567
Results 181 to 191 of 191

Thread: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

  1. #181
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    OK....Update?

    So this wagon has since gone from running great to running ok with a check engine light. Missfire codes Cyl. 1,3 and 4. Also the occasional EGR codes and Catalyst codes. The rack has torn and leaking boots...the exhaust is rusted from manifold to tail pipe beyond repair...both front axle boots are torn and axles are bone dry and rusty inside...and last but certainly not least ...I am pretty sure the "oil separator" plate on the back of the block is pissing oil. Everything is wet and I have to keep an eye on the oil level.

    Anyway who cares this thread is about the Legacy GT limited not the rust bucket daily driver! With that being said....I have decided to junk the wagon. Not without keeping a few goodies of course. By goodies I mean MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Yes it is old, yes it needs to be resealed but it only makes sense. I have been waiting to do the trans swap on the auto leggy since day one and now i have the opportunity with almost every major component I need sitting right there waiting to be had. I have gone too long without any of my projects moving forward. Its time...

    From what I understand thus far; I will be keeping the trans, rear diff, and hydraulic parts from the wagon. I already sourced a pedal assembly so I wont need that and the front axles are trashed so I wont be keeping those either. I will need to purchase a clutch kit that includes a fly wheel, front axles, and a drive shaft because I believe the drive shaft in the wagon will be slightly too long. If I am not mistaken the 5mt out of the outback should fit without issue and the X-member should bolt right up as well. I am using the outback rear diff. to pair the gear ratios being as the auto trans and diff. use different ratios which should also bolt up with no problem. I belive installing the pedal assembly and clutch master should be hassle free because from what I have read the firewall already has a cut out for the manual swap it just uses a rubber plug in that location for the autos. If you are wondering why I havn't just looked at my own firewall to make sure the rubber plugged hole is there it is because the car is hibernating. It is under a car cover in the back of my garage which is hard to get to. (I somehow fit 2 cars in a 1 car garage to hibernate over winter)

    As far as what I will be driving...I am currently shopping. Looking at getting something like a 06-08 outback with generally low mileage with a 5mt. Something that is a bit healthier than this 800 purchase. I need to have a newer safer vehicle for the newest addition to the family. My first child was born on this past Christmas and he has been a blessing. A future Suby fanatic in the making!

    So in conclusion of this post...does anyone one have any tips for my next mission?

    Is it 100% certain fact that my drive shaft will not swap from the outback into the gt sedan?

    Will the cross member fit directly on without modification?

    Does any one have any helpful links?

    Does anyone need anything from the Outback that I will be junking? It is 1998 Outback all weather package...let me know


    And lastly...I have been doing a lot of searching as you can imagine and I have noticed that Photobucket has ruined tons of forums out there. Thousands of pictures not showing up in some very informative threads. Is there a fix for this? It would be such a shame to not have any pictures from past writeups. Are my own pictures even showing up in this thread?

  2. #182
    "FNG"
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    62
    Points
    3,974
    Level
    40
    Points: 3,974, Level: 40
    Level completed: 12%, Points required for next Level: 176
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsO.G.
    I found this on NASIOC of all places and its been super helpful:
    to fix your photobucket photos, you just add ~original after .jpg. It starts out looking like this when the photos are broken: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg[/IMG]

    It ends up like this: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg~original[/IMG]

    And some of mine had some weird numbers in between the .jpg and [/IMG] like this:
    /subysmashedup378.jpg?t=1257112242[/IMG]



    From the other end, if you're using Chrome, there's an extension that fixes the images as well.
    https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...giikdkpmcpkaon

  3. #183
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    Admiral snackbar that was very helpful info. thank you! What a shame Photobucket would do something like this. Also....that is a a great username.



    Before I could start my quest to "gear shifting" I had to find a replacement vehicle for my daily driver. As stated in the last post I was prepared to spend a bit more to have a safe ride for my new born son. With a little bit of patience and persuasion the new daily was found. A clean 2006 Legacy Wagon with 45k miles! Clean carfax, no rust, 5MT and such low mileage...I had to have it. Only problem was...the wife ended up liking it more than myself! It is newer and far more spacious then the daily driver she had (05 Impreza Outback Sport 5MT) and so we made a trade. She got the new 06 wagon and I took the 05 Impreza as my daily. I just replaced the clutch (in the Impreza) and I guess you could say I'm not complaining...but man I love that 06 wagon! So clean and still has that new car smell! Anyway here is a few pics before I move on.








    Having two healthy daily drivers for us meant it was a big green light for the tear down on the 98 outback. It sure as hell was not easy. When I first purchased the vehicle I had gotten it undercoated to help prevent any further rust. Whether that helped or not I do not know but I can say that the LF control arm was so severely rusted I could have broke it with a couple hits of a carpenter's hammer! The undercoating made everything a bitch to remove! Every damn bolt had a thick coating of black, disgusting, sticky shit all over it. And guess which other car has been undercoated....yeah the GT... Regardless of the copious amounts of tar on the outback I got her done. I removed; axles, rear diff, transmission, flywheel, clutch cover/pressure plate, clutch cylinder, slave cylinder, drive shaft, and obviously shifter linkage. The shifter arms where pretty rusty so I did a bit of sanding and painting on those and I plan on doing the same to the differential. The axle boots were torn not to mention I buggered up the ends with a hammer trying to get them free so axles will have to be replaced. I have resealed the tail shaft of the transmission along with the access panel on the top. Now when I took it apart I found gaskets. Instead of replacing gaskets I decided to use the red sealant we use at work (Toyota dealer). It is a lot like the Fujibond stuff and it used mainly to seal transmission cases anyway so I don't see that being a problem. I did however use WAY too much but I doubt that will cause any problems either.

    Under the knife...FINALLY!


    Here is that crusty ass LF control arm. Anyone still rockin these old outbacks be warned this is a rust problem area along with the rear strut towers!


    Here is what it looked like when I pulled it out. Dirty, rusty, and ugly. You may even ask yourself "Why is he even bothering using such an old high mileage piece of junk 5MT?" Well the truth is I am doing it because it is going to be cheap. Let's not forget the auto currently in the GT is slipping like crazy...and who actually wants to drive an automatic Subaru anyway. My wife doesn't even drive an auto...




    You can see how the leaking oil separator plate left oil residue all over the bell housing. The whole thing was very difficult to clean and the end result is no where near perfect like it was on my 4Runner trans. swap...but IIRC I used some kind of steam cleaner on the 4Runner trans...this time around I used endless amounts of brake cleaner.



    While I was working on the trans. and getting it cleaned up I had it standing up on a spare rim inside of a kiddie pool. This helped keep it stable without damaging the shaft and also kept the mess contained. I used a rubber glove to cover the seal so no brake clean/degreaser got into the transmission.



    So like I said I used way too much sealant here but I am not too worried about it.



    One nice surprise was a broken Shifter Bracket on the back of the trans. Two of the three mounting holes were broken and the previous owner decided to weld it back together. Well the welds did not allow it to sit flush and it was missing a bolt. Not to mention the ugly ass welds did'nt hold anyway. I ordered a replacement for $15 part number: 35033AA022

    Here is a pic of the old broken one.



    Here is a pic. of the new one Installed.



    Here is what it looks like now after a little cleaning and resealing. Like I said not perfect but much better. I am assuming this will be replaced in a few years anyway given it has approx. 200k+ miles





    I went ahead and bought a new dust cover for the shift fork ($20) because the old one was gone, aside from a crunchy little lip that was barley hanging on. Here is a pic for anyone still paying attention? I also ordered a new shifter return spring. Actually seeing as almost every 5MT is missing this piece I ordered 4 of them. They are like $1.25 each.




    I pulled a few misc. pieces as well such as keyless entry module with fob (no pics) and also this hood scoop. The newer one being on bottom.



    So along the way I managed to pick up a few goodies!

    Kartboy shifter bushings front



    Kartboy shifter bushing rear



    I sanded and painted the whole crossmember and purchased RalliTEK crossmember mount bushings and a Group N transmission mount! If your wondering why it looks so shitty it's the undercoating. I wanted to install these tonight but there was soooooo many mosquitos in the garage tonight.....ffuuuccckkk that.



    Here is a shot of the shifter arms after light sanding and painting with the front Kartboy bushings.



    Last but not least I picked up this Prodrive Axle back Oval Tip exhaust. I am not sure if it will be bolt on or if I will have to Adjust or replace the hangars. Anyone know if it's a direct fit?? I will test fit when I have the old exhaust out for the 5MT install.








    I was almost teary eyed...but not really.lol As you can see I removed the brand new tires that were on there and installed some Prius tires from work.



    Things to ponder...

    Will the outback drive shaft work in my GT?

    The rear axles came out without the locking clips on the ends...will this be a problem?

    Will the red sealant work as good or better?

    Will that exhaust be direct fit or will it need to be modified in some way?

    By the way I've come this far all on my own. I used some large tow straps to help lower the transmission without dropping it and it was a struggle but I got it done. I am thinking I may need some help with the automatic seeing as it is a LOT bigger.

    Anyone have any input? questions? helpful tips?...I'm all ears..errr eyes...

    Goodbye Outback you will be missed...but organ donors save lives.


    -RONI-
    Last edited by AssYriaNrocKer; 05-31-2018 at 03:34 AM.

  4. #184
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    Today I had time to throw on the Group N transmission mount and the RalliTEK crossmember bushings. When I removed the old bushings I noticed 1 pair was installed wrong. Instead of being on either side of the crossmember they were placed on the same side on top of each other...strange. Mosquitos are still out in full force so after that I pulled the GT in and called it a day. These mosquitos are going to be a battle now that its warm out.

    Group N on left original on right.


    RalliTEK crossmember bushings installed with Group N trans. mount. I got the "soft" bushings opposed to the "hard" Judging by how soft the originals were I am positive it will make a huge difference. The old ones were as soft as a sponge!


    I am ready to start tearing into this thing. Should be fun... The wagon was kind of easy because I knew it was going to the junkyard so everything got a taste of the hammer. This time I will be a bit more...gentle.

    I may have a connection on a better shape bumper locally. It is the same paint code...hopefully the shade is the same. Then again anything will look better then the current scratched, chipped, bent, and low hanging bumper that is on there now!


    I will give her a good cleaning before I start....just for motivation purposes. I will do my best to take pictures and update this page along the way.

    -RONI-

  5. #185
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    Remember kids, always unbolt the torque convertor when removing an automatic trans!

    Look at the size difference here. That is one giant magical shifting box...and only 4 damn gears to. I have a spare 4:44 differential now if anyone is interested.



    Currently I have all parts in hand and ready to be installed. The old stuff for the auto is all out as well. If you need any of the parts I am not using just let me know. On another note I am surprised by how tight the flex plate bolts are. I'm sure there is loctite on there but still seems really tight. I brought my breaker bars home today and will get them off tomorrow some time. Tomorrow I will also install the pedal assembly.

    Yesterday I picked up a replacement bumper. I really dislike the small black portion that is under the headlights but actually I see it on a lot of these legacys. The bumper is not perfect but it will look 100 times better then whats currently on the car.

    -RONI-


  6. #186
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    Since I had such a hard time dropping the auto trans I decided it might be a good idea to replace the rear main seal. I wondered if all the trans/engine movement flexed the seal and started a leak. I was debating at first but sure enough there was a drip of fresh oil behind the flex plate. I decided since I have it in stock anyway I might as well throw it on. After that and a little cleaning I threw on the freshly cut flywheel. Of course I forgot to take any pics of this.

    I removed the bumper to have better access to the auto transmission cooling lines that I needed to remove and cap off. I threw the old bumper in the shed for the time being...anyone need it?...It's ugly.... I got the lines out and capped off the ends from the radiator.


    Getting the new brake and clutch pedal assembly in was not the easiest thing that's for sure. If you are using the cable type shifter it would be a lot easier but I'm using the hydraulic setup, that came from the outback, which uses an extension rod that has to be routed behind the steering column to reach the clutch master cylinder. After moving a few wires and modules it is possible I promise. The TCU is also in this area by the brake pedal and I have left it plugged in for now. From my understanding there is a plug for cruise, one for ABS, and one for the trans. I am not 100% on this so I left it plugged in for now.


    Cant wait to see a shifter here...


    Next I will finish installing the clutch kit and throw in the rear diff. along with the trans and driveshaft. I still need to get some front axles...I may or may not have a connect on some used front axles for cheap.


    That's all for today.

    -RONI-

  7. #187
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran

    4eat --> 5mt swap update

    I apologize in advance for not taking as many pictures as I would have liked to. I did every bit of this project alone and wanted to keep a forward motion instead of stopping to take pics every step of the way. Besides...dirty hands?...clean phone?...

    After the pedal assembly was in I threw the clutch in. I had the old flywheel resurfaced and used a new clutch kit from Exedy. I recently had a bad experience ordering an "Exedy" kit from an online vendor so I decided to order straight thru Exedy this time. Worth every penny. I went with the KSB04 kit which is an OEM replacement kit that includes: pressure plate/cover, clutch disc, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, grease, and alignment tool. I'll mention here that when I was doing the throwout bearing it wouldn't fit! Come to find the previous owner used a sleeve with an oversized throwout bearing to fit over it. Generally you use a sleeve if the snout of the trans is marred and causing a noise. Seeing this, I figured the only way to get a bearing on here that I know 100% will fit is to buy a new sleeve and bearing kit because it is hard to find a bearing that will fit a sleeve...usually they come in kits together. After removing the sleeve....what a nice surprise...no marring or any damage whatsoever! Maybe the previous mechanic had it laying around? Or maybe it was a preventative maintenance item? Either way my bearing rides smooth with no noise I was happy.

    Freshly cut flywheel that came out of the outback donor.


    OEM replacement Exedy clutch disc.


    OEM replacement Exedy clutch cover.


    Once the transmission is in place the crossmember bolts into holes that are already there on the vehicle you just have to remove the rubber plugs. These plugs kept the threads in perfect condition! I just moved them over to the newly unused holes for the auto trans. crossmember. After that I installed the rear differential. Just a tip for anyone doing this, it is much easier (in my opinion) to leave the axles in place. I was able to lower the old diff. down and maneuver the axles out, and at the same time I was able to raise the new diff into place and smack the axles completely in. Next was the drive shaft. At first glance I thought I was golden....just throw it in and done...not so fast. The length was perfect but once it was bolted in I couldn't get the differential flange cover on because it would hit the driveshaft. The culprit was the center carrier bearing. On the outbacks it hangs 1 inch lower to accommodate for the lift of the outback. (I guess I forgot to mention the trans. crossmemebers on outbacks also have 2 1" spacers that I had to cut off) After separating the front and rear section of the shaft you can see a staked nut that holds the carrier in place. Remove nut, pull flange, pull bearing, and install it all back together on the manual drive shaft. After swapping the carrier bearing it fit perfect. For front axles I went with Napa brand rebuilds. I heard they use Subaru knuckles to rebuild and they were decently priced. Got the heat shields back on along with exhaust and then it was time for the hardest part (for me)....WIRING.

    Anyone out there researching for this swap will find tons and tons of threads on the topic. The problem is when it comes to the wiring people have done many different things and have come to some similar results. Some people have no ABS, some have no cruise, some have CEL codes, and some have a low idle/stalling problem. What I have done here is gathered all the info I can fit into my little brain and used it to do what I BELIEVE to be CORRECT. With that being said, use any information on my build thread at your own risk. My vehicle is a 1998 2.5 GT Limited and my donor vehicle was a 1998 2.5 Outback...if you are using anything other than those two cars YOURS MAY BE DIFFERENT. (but prob. not that different.)

    Ill start off by saying I have tried a couple different configurations of the wiring and came across some of the symptoms I listed above. What I have currently setup in the car is working so far with no stalling, perfect idle, no CEL codes (yet), functioning ABS (presumed functioning have not tested), working cruise control, and no other abnormalities. With that being said I don't really have any logged miles on the car just went around block a few times so time will tell if any codes come up....but I feel confident.

    The Items that will need to be wired are as follows:

    REVERSE LIGHTS

    CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH

    VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

    NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH

    ECU IDENTIFIER PIN


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    REVERSE LIGHTS

    The reverse lights will be wired into the inhibitor switch harness that use to connect to the 4eat. On the inhibitor harness you will be using pins 9-12 for this swap. The reverse light wires on my 5mt were connected to a grey 2 prong small harness. One wire of this reverse harness will go into pin number 9 of the inhibitor harness and the other will go into pin 10. To do this I just cut out the grey harness and used the other end of the inhibitor switch to plug the wire in. This way it is not a harness going to a harness its just one plug and not 2. Refer to the picture below.

    CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH

    The clutch pedal has 2 switches on it. The top one is the clutch switch you will be using. The lower switch I believe is used for cruise control. What I did was extend the 2 wires coming from the clutch switch all the way to the AC drain hose. The AC drain hose was an easy way thru the firewall and being that the wires are fairly small i am not worried about having any water leak from any gap created by squeezing the wire next to the hose. One of these 2 wire goes to pin number 11 on the inhibitor harness and the other goes to pin 12. This taps into the starter circuit which means you can only start the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed just as it is intended to work. If you plan on any auto X or other type of racing this is usually checked on inspection. (From what I have read anyway) Refer to picture below.


    VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

    So luckily for me the vehicle speed sensor was exactly the same for the 4eat and the 5mt. I have not heard anyone else say this in their findings but in my case I was lucky. OK...not EXACTLY the same but same set up just different length wires. All I had to do was plug it in though. From what I have read sometimes you need to extend wires and other times you need to add wires that run straight to the ECU. It all depends on the years of the donor and the car your working on. I guess I caught a break on this one....good luck to everyone else!


    NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH

    This is where a lot of people differed in their findings. Originally I had this connected thru the inhibitor switch just like all the other wires and that made sense to me at the time. Having it connected thru the inhibitor switch caused me to have low idle and stalling issues which was very scary....coming to a stop with no brake boost is not fun. The reason this happens is we forget that the inhibitor switch does not report directly to the ECU but rather to the TCU. From the TCU the signal THEN gets sent to the ECU. The TCU has 3 plugs. I believe ones is for ABS, one is for cruise control, and the center pug is the shifting solenoids. With the center plug removed the idle drops to normal and you retain ABS and cruise. So like I said the TCU is not sending transmission signals to the ECU without that middle plug. You have to connect the neutral position switch directly to the ECU. To do this one wire has to be connected to pin number 82 on the ECU. This pin has a wire in it already...If I remember correctly it is blue with a red stripe and 2 silver dots. Cut the wire and connect it to the neutral position switch. The other wire of the Neutral position switch gets grounded.

    ECU IDENTIFIER PIN

    The ECU on my 98 has a AT/MT identity pin. Apparently for these years Subaru used the same ECU part numbers for both auto and manual, the difference being pin 81. On the auto this pin is left empty and measures 5v. On the manual this pin is grounded to show 0v. To convert your ECU to a manual you just plug in a pin and ground it. To do this I removed pin 80 and moved it over to 81. I then cut the wire and ran it to a ground. Pin 80 I believe is an auto diag. pin that is no longer used. Now that the ECU knows it is a manual you will no longer get any automatic transmission related code. I believe pin 80 is a pink wire.

    Some pictures for reference...

    This picture is kind of useless but I will include it anyway. Like I said I kept forgetting to take pics so this one was taken after I already put the ECU back. The red wire is my ground for pin 81. It is grounded to the body on a dash support. People say it needs to be grounded in a certain way yada yada yada....a ground is a ground 0v is 0v....haters gonna hate.


    For the clutch wires I used a small 2 prong plug just in case it ever needs to be removed.



    I have a FSM on my hard drive which helps a lot. Here is a reference to the Inhibitor switch. There are 2 plugs left over after you remove the auto trans. The bigger of the 2 will not be use. I just water proofed it and tied it to the side. The other one is the inhibitor switch that is used for revers lights and clutch pedal switch.


    Here is my attempt at showing you how things are wired. Not super helpful but I am sure it will help someone out there.


    So like I said I have not logged miles but as soon as I am done here I am going out for a drive and a car wash. I will keep this subject updated. I believe everything is correct and I should have no issues. If anyone has any questions or comments always free to chime as usual. Here is a few pics of the finished product. Maybe when I report back I'll post a few pics of this thing actually being clean.

    This is the "new to me" bumper. Not a huge fan of the black line under the headlights but it is common on these years. I guess it doesnt look terrible...kinda like eyeliner for the car. As you can see I did not install the fogs because they were trashed and filled with water....time for a fog light upgrade. Decently priced suggestions anyone?


    Interior



    One last thing I would like to say is....I did this all alone. From lowering the trans to bleeding the clutch I had only 1 helper...this guy...


    -RONI-

    Last edited by AssYriaNrocKer; 07-04-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  8. #188
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran

    *update*

    Currently have about 170 miles on the car after the swap. I can say that it drives great! Only bad thing to mention is 10 miles into it CEL came on: P1101 NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH (off). This didn't make sense to me because I know my wiring is correct so I erased it and moved on. 65 miles later it came back. Erased it again and it has yet to return. Yesterday I rechecked my wiring and even checked the voltage at pin 82 (neutral position switch pin). I got 5v when in neutral and 0v when in gear which is exactly what I am suppose to see according to the FSM. I am thinking that the switch maybe sticking at times. Maybe it has something to do with all the cleaning I did when the trans. was out. I used a ton of brake clean and degreaser which may or may not have caused an issue. Either way I believe it is an intermittent issue with the switch and has nothing to do with my wiring. I am going to ride it out until I see it becoming a frequently reoccurring issue at that point I will throw on a new switch. Other then that one small hiccup the car is running great. It is still an NA EJ25 so "fast" it is not exactly a descriptive word for this car but it sure is fun. Currently running the car with no axle back exhaust. With the UEL headers its fairly loud and attracts unwanted attention from the 16 year olds revving their Honda at me because I have a loud Subaru with gold rims... I hope to make it out to the muffler shop tomorrow to fab up a way to mount that ProDrive axle back.

    Got in a quick car wash before the rain.












    This here is the one ugly ass corner of the car. This fender has been repainted or something by the previous owner and its all chipping and there is no clear coat. I would love to get the whole car painted but that's expensive. Maybe I should just get this one fender fixed for now though. In this corner the hood seems misaligned as well. Not sure if it is the hood or the fender that is misaligned.


    At 80mph it sits just under 4k. The outback was similar to this and I always thought that was a bit high. I know with the gear ratios being different my speedometer is no longer exact...I just don't know If it is too slow or too fast.....ratios and math is not my forte. I took it up to about 110mph and I'm pretty sure it was around 5k.


    -RONI-

  9. #189
    SLi Lurker Sub-Goon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    431
    Points
    2,599
    Level
    30
    Points: 2,599, Level: 30
    Level completed: 99%, Points required for next Level: 1
    Achievements:
    1 year registered1000 Experience Points
    All speedometers read a higher speed than reality, the manufacturers see to that! Download a gps speed app on your phone to see what you are actually doing and compare to your speedo.

  10. #190
    nice work keeping her going

  11. #191
    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    114
    Points
    4,045
    Level
    40
    Points: 4,045, Level: 40
    Level completed: 48%, Points required for next Level: 105
    Achievements:
    1000 Experience PointsVeteran
    Sub-Goon you are correct. I used a GPS app and found it to read 5mph slower than my vehicles speedometer.

    Webberjames95 Thanks man. It's a slow and long road but much more to come.

    -RONI-

Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •