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Thread: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

  1. #151
    Dirt Tech / Vendor Reuben's Avatar
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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Would have been nice if my gtb got a subie screen, i was so fucked off when I found my wiper heaters were gone!!! I'm just going to reclaim it some day.

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Was balancing my wheels when I noticed a torn cv boot....turns out that vibration was not from unbalanced wheel but actually my cv axle was in need of replacment. Pretty easy job...ball joint...end link...swing the hub out of the way and replace the axle. I had to reuse a small shaft that came out of the diff. Everything is riding smooth now. Did an oil change to...





    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    So last month KT was pulling out of the parking lot when a not so smart driver reversed with out looking and hit the suby....pas. side fender and door. Other drivers insurance covered everything. I used the body shop that my dealership uses. They did a great job and even used subaru parts. Ill have pics as soon as I get a chance. Before this happened someone hit the pas. Mirror in a store parking lot and it broke off....prob. cause it was frozen. Got a used replacement on ebay and it is currently getting painted to match.

    Had some starting issues the other day. I just replaced the starter so I was sure it was not the starter....turns out it was a corroded connector on The starter. Replaced it and no problems since.
    Heres a pic of the coroded connector.


    I also replaced the driver side foor panel.
    OLD


    NEW



    INSTALLED


    On a side note I took a pic with a neighbors plane jane legacy.



    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Gotta get them infected with the modding bug, now...
    2002 Outback H6 VDC "Blitzen 6"

    Quote Originally Posted by Lancaster6
    A sherpa could rip ass somewhere high up in the Himalayas and my Prius will be blown almost off of the road.

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    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Ha! Its prob. An old lady driving it for the AWD. It looks pretty clean. It's the only legacy I ever see around here.

    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    So I got the pas. Side mirror back from paint and installed it yesterday. I have no garage and I don't want to abuse the access I have to a full shop at work so I decided to install it at a nearby park. Got to see some deer!








    Then brought her in to wrk for a wash.















    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Well summer is here and it's time to remove the snow wheel set and throw on the v7s. The rear pads where in need of replacement so got that done as well. I went ahead and just replaced the rotors as well. I wanted to use OEM Subaru parts but way too expensive. I went with OEM replacement Brembo rotors because it was half the price! OEM Subaru pads...came with all the shims and holding clips needed.
    PICS

    I had about 2-3mm left on the old pads.






    All set.


    Part number for the pads.


    Part number for the OE replacement Brembo rotors.


    Been getting a lot of comments on the rims and the tires this summer. They look great!


    Slightly "rough around the edges" but still a beautiful car.


    It's time to start planing and making purchases for the transmission swap. I've seen quite a few great donor legacy's on Craig's list for cheap....I just have no room...

    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Still in the area?? Have yet to see this car around the neighborhood!!!!

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick
    Still in the area?? Have yet to see this car around the neighborhood!!!!

    Yup in Des Plaines. Yea we rarely go west of where we live but do you guys still do the Hooters meet in Schaumburg on Wednesdays? If so maybe we can stop by tomorrow. But I gotta say she's been thru a lot....it had rained really hard one day and the area the car was parked in got flooded. I moved the car but not in time, back seat area had about 3" of water front passenger side about 1" driver stayed dry surprisingly. I got it about 90% the first day but of course it still smells. I decided I'm going to remove the carpet clean everything really good and while I am at it throw down some Dynamat! I have the Dynamat in hand ready to install just waiting on a nice hot day off to do it. Needs to be a nice hot dry day to help dry the carpet after I clean it.

    Gonna clean it tomorrow night...for the first time in a while....

    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    So tonight after work (7pm) I installed the two silly little "under carriage covers" I got from the dealership. I was disappointed to see how small they were and how little they covered but I installed them anyway. I then installed the OEM hood scoop cover to help keep warm in winter seeing as I have no real use for the hood scoop. Got her washed...got my self showered and headed straight to the suby meet that aperantley happens at the Hooters in Schaumburg but.......i didn't make it on time....or maybe it doesn't happen anymore I'm not sure...but either way I figured I made the effort so might as well take some pics....maybe next week....

    Driver side "under cover"

    Pas. Side "under cover"

    Not covering much brooooo....

    Fueled up....


    Im not even sure this is the right spot but it seems ideal. Large bright parking lot next to a hooters sounds about right for some suby folk.



    Check out that STI rack angle....makes for some awkward u-turns.

    In motion!

    Hopefully this thing still goes on and I can catch some people next time.


    In other new I removed the strut bar and decided I'm going to shave off the little tabs underneath the mounts to make it more flush and not hit the hood. Other than a leaking power steering pump and an auto. Transmission that is slowly dieing the car is running great averaging 20mpg.

    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    DUDE!!!! you definitely gotta come out to the meet next week, theyre ALWAYS up and running every wednesday from roughly 6 til whenever, heres a pic from the other week ago, hit me up during the week or something, itd be sick to roll together and meet up. 847 208-5109


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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    And yeah, I live off golf and elmhurst roughly haha youre probably super close to where Im at

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    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick
    And yeah, I live off golf and elmhurst roughly haha youre probably super close to where Im at

    Yeah you are not far from me at all. I have your number saved in my phone now so I'll hit you up next time. The only issue is I get off work at 7 wed. Nights. So I would have to rush and show up in work clothes to barely make it.

    I'm getting ready to do the dynamat install today! I'm pretty excited.....i hope it all goes smooth and the carpet has time to dry.

    As usual I will post pics later...


    -RONI-

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    The Dynamat floor panel install went smoothly. The carpet came out ok...we tried our best but those front seat sections get a lot of use. At least now I can say it's clean with no nasty rain water residue from the flood. The Dynamat itself is a pretty basic install. Removed interior and carpet. Lifted up misc. Wires, ducts, cables and covers. Cleaned surface really good and began applying the dynamat mat. As far as cutting and shaping I basically placed the raw piece in a section, measured what I need to cut out and covered as much as possible using the largest pieces as possible.

    So here is the work space...my dad's garage. He lives in the city so it's a pretty cramped space with limited tools but it all worked out great.



    It begins...

    Interior and carpet out. You can see the wires and covers that have to be raised to place the dynamat underneath directly on the metal.




    Lifted some of the wires and ECU. I placed dynamat under the ECU and also on the cover that goes over it.

    This is the cover for the ECU. Also you can see a raw piece of dynamat. I guess I forgot to mention I'm using dynamat "Xtreme".


    Here's the carpet hanging to dry. You can see how the most used parts are stained.

    First piece installed. Getting under that duct was difficult but obviously possible.








    And getting all back together...



    Smooth install and I can say I noticed a difference right away. I can't wait to do the doors and trunk. I think the doors will make the biggest impact. I started with 9 sheets and I used every ounce of 5 sheets. That leaves me 4 sheets for the other surfaces.

    -RONI-
    Last edited by AssYriaNrocKer; 12-16-2022 at 09:44 AM.

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Man that car is really starting to take shape. I'm kind of jealous lol. Love the stance with the wheel combo. What are your next mods? If your going to put a 5spd in there I would consider a 5spd out of any 05-09 legacy gt. They are the strongest 5spd Subaru has to offer. Your going to need a hydraulic clutch slave and master cylinder along with everything else that comes with a 5spd swap.

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    Dirt Tech / Vendor Reuben's Avatar
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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    Man, she's gonna be luxurious!

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    Re: AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

    the meets usually go till like 8 or later,should still come through anyways!!

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    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatgc8 View Post
    Man that car is really starting to take shape. I'm kind of jealous lol. Love the stance with the wheel combo. What are your next mods? If your going to put a 5spd in there I would consider a 5spd out of any 05-09 legacy gt. They are the strongest 5spd Subaru has to offer. Your going to need a hydraulic clutch slave and master cylinder along with everything else that comes with a 5spd swap.
    Quote Originally Posted by Reuben View Post
    Man, she's gonna be luxurious!

    Thanks guys! I was hoping to have at LEAST parts purchased and plans made for the manual trans. swap by now. The truth is not only do I have no where to do the project but I don't even have a place I can store parts. Between the mini truck, the 4Runner, and the Suby I have parts hiding in every corner of my Apt. as it is! Large projects like this will have to wait till I have a garage I can call "home" which I'm hoping will be in the next year or so. Even if it takes longer The Legacy and the 4Runner are not going anywhere anytime soon.


    Lately on the Legacy...


    Got the old "YOU ARE DUE FOR EMISSIONS" letter in the mail and decided it was time to get rid of that ABS light. I decided this under the notion that I would not pass the "safety" portion of the emissions test with an ABS light on. Now I've been told that the ABS light makes no difference in the test as long as your check engine light is not on. Regardless the damn light has been on long enough and I just convinced my self to assess the light in time for the test just in case.

    Before I continue I should mention the Subaru ABS "sensitivity" issue. I do not know much about the subject but from my understanding...when the ABS is properly working, any loss of traction, bumps, or "panic" braking triggers the system to engage. In turn this dramatically increases stopping distance. According to others in similar forums this happens far more often in rain, snow and ice ....for obviuos reasons. Like I said I have not looked deeply into the subject and have not witnessed this on our Legacy but it's worth mentioning I guess. Maybe I have not witnessed this because my ABS light being on means that the system is inoperable?


    So to start I needed to find a way to retrieve the code from the ECU. I tried connecting several scan tools to no avail. Using All Data I found out there is a separate diagnostic harness that is used to diagnose the ABS system. This harness has two loose "Diagnostic terminals" attached to it. Mine were taped to the harness with electrical tape witch made it a little hard to identify. Here is the diagram I used to find the connector. This diagram is a little vague so I will also include a couple pics of the real life connector. I was snapping these pics in a hurry so they are not the best.

    All Data's Diagram


    My actual ABS diagnostic connector


    It kinda pissed me off how long it took to find this damn thing so when I finally found it I threw a quick label on there to make it easier for the next guy......oh wait that's probably gonna be me huh?....


    After locating the connector (which took ME some time) I pulled the code by connecting one of the Diagnostic terminals to terminal 6 on the connector. Terminal 6 is the bottom right terminal as shown in the diagram. Once connected I turned the key to the on position and counted the flashes. The first digit will be long flashes and the second digit will be short flashes. It can store up to 3 codes at a time so be sure to watch for it to start all over again. I had 2 long flashes and 3 short flashes witch gives me code 23 left front wheel sensor. This code repeated itself over and over meaning I only had the one code. I already knew this sensor was the issue so I had the part in hand and installed it right away.

    To clear ABS codes I connected the same diagnostic terminal to terminal 6 again but this time insert and remove it 3 times within 12 seconds.

    Checked for codes again and just my luck....another code. I know the system can store 3 codes at a time but why it only gave me one I don't know This time I got code 56 "G" sensor. This is also known as the "yaw rate" sensor or "decel" sensor and it is usually positioned towards the center of the vehicle. I believe it measures "G" force the vehicle endures moving forward, backwards, and side to side. Last summer the Suby unfortunately got flooded with rain water so my first thought was corroded connectors. I opened up the center counsel to find out. Luckily you do not have to remove the whole counsel just lift the lid remove the two interior screws and lift off the cover that goes around the e-brake handle. Here is a couple pics of the location and the sensor itself.



    G-Sensor


    I noticed some slight corrosion around the entire sensor and decided to carefully clean it using electronic cleaner. I would not suggest using anything too harsh to clean this thing. It is pretty sensitive and could turn into an expensive piece of trash if you drop it. Oh and its filled with mercury (I think) so "Don't lick the contents" :toothy5: I then tested it using the procedure provided by all data. This involved back probing the sensor and using a meter to read the voltage the sensor has in different positions. Basically holding the sensor 90 degrees forward gave a specified voltage reading....holding it horizontal gave a specified reading...holding it 90 degrees backwards gave another specified reading etc. Luckily my G sensor was giving normal voltage readings and the codes cleared... it was a Christmas miracle in May.

    With all dashboard lights off it was time to go take the emission test....but I can't just go like that...it's summer time I have to do it in style! Time for v7's! This year they are wrapped in 225/45 Michelin Pilot Sport ps2's and I must say these are the best tires I have ever driven on. They provide more than adequate traction while remaining exceptionally quiet and unbelievably smooth. The first day I drove on them it was pouring rain and I could still tell the difference in traction compared to any other tire that has been on this Legacy. It's only been about 60-70 miles on these tires but we are loving them. Worth the pretty penny I paid for them no doubt.

    Good bye winter look


    Hello sexy summer time look






    My paint really needs some lovin...







    That's all for now folks! Anyone interested in purchasing a 1987 Toyota Land cruiser fj60?lol

    Oh yeah...front and rear sway bar end links on order....and replacement fog lights coming soon as well.


    -RONI-
    Last edited by AssYriaNrocKer; 07-08-2015 at 07:28 PM.

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    Stickyyyyy Michysssss!!!! Car looks great man! I agree with you on the paint job and the fog lights have also seen their better days. JDM fogs?

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    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatgc8 View Post
    Stickyyyyy Michysssss!!!! Car looks great man! I agree with you on the paint job and the fog lights have also seen their better days. JDM fogs?

    Hell yeah man JDM fogs ftw.

    UPDATE:


    Hit up the local junkyard last week and struck gold. A 97 Outback with the same leather seats and interior trim!:toothy8: The seats in the legacy where torn on the bottom half on both the pas. and driver seat since day of purchase. As you can imagine it only got worse with time. I was collecting some info on local upholstery shops and was not happy about the prices. Sure the seats might come out looking great but man....150 just to put my ass on something that is not torn? And then another 150 for my passenger? Gotta be a better option.... sure enough I got lucky at the yard. The only difference in the seats is that they have the heated seat option (which would be AMAZING to have!) and also they have a "Outback" logo on the seat backing. The logo is hard to see and not a big deal to me at all. Katie (owner/DD) had a little hissy fit about it but she got over it once she realized how much better condition the new seats were in. To think that these seats are a whole year older than our originals smh.....goes to show you what the AZ sun does to your car! I wonder how hard the heated seat option would be to wire up....

    Here is a look at the old pas. side seat.



    Old pas. side seat on the left and its replacement on the right.


    I swapped the rails from my old seats because the ones from the yard were rusted to shit. (as you can see in the first pic.)


    Install of the seats was super easy. Hardest part was removing the rusted seat rails from the 97 Outback. I did not have my work tools so all I had was my trusty 1963 Snap On 3\8 ratchet. Thing still gets shit done! From there its just basic seat install...don't forget the harness for the OEM "subwoofer"LOL
    Here you can compare the newer pas. side seat to the old driver seat.


    Here is both seats installed. Sure they are not perfect...(pas. side has a small scuff in the middle of the bottom half and the driver side has wear marks on the door side shoulder but they are a major upgrade form the originals. At 20$ a seat I am very happy with the outcome.



    You can't even make out the "Outback" sign in the pics.....told you it was hard to tell...

    While I was at the yard I also found a few steering wheels in great condition. The only problem was I did not have the torx bit to take them of ..............OF COURSE I CAME BACK THE NEXT DAY ARE YOU KIDDING!:toothy8:

    Here is the original. Leather tearing from years of use and years of AZ sun cooking/frying/baking/melting ...you know usual AZ stuff.


    The only difference in the 2 wheels is the original had some fancy leather wrap with stitching where as the replacement although in great shape has no stitching on the inside part of the wheel. We don't mind because it sure beats that hideous tear...not to mention it was kinda gross and sticky when you put your hand there....I guess I should also mention I did replace the air bag as well due to a tiny tear in the original.(you can't see in the photos). Wheel and air bag sold separately. 10$ for the wheel and 30$ for the airbag.


    Removing the wheel is fairly simple. Safety first...anytime you are messing with an air bag you are going to want to cut the power so unplug those battery terminals. After disconnecting the battery remove the torx bolts on each side of the steering wheel. Now the air bag can be pulled forward revealing the 2 harnesses behind it. Unplug the yellow air bag harness by sliding the green tab to the right while pushing the yellow button down and pulling it out. Unplug the cruise control harness and the air bag can be removed. From here all you have to do is remove the 17mm nut in the center and pull....easier said then done. It is a good idea to give the wheel a few taps (carefully....and on the metal not the leather) with a hammer after you have removed the nut. Make sure the wheel is straight before pulling of the wheel. Also the harnesses goes through the wheel so be careful not to damage the harnesses. Once it's off you reverese the steps to install.


    This is a crappy photo but the wheel is installed and looking pretty regardless of the photo quality.


    Being the picky, meticulous, junkyard hunting guy that I am you know I grabbed more stuff.....Check this out. I FINALLY replaced the broken radio bezel! Might not seem like that big of a deal but man it was annoying while driving. Every time you accelerate it would fall forward, every time you grabbed the lighter it fell forward, and the ashtray?! ppfft forget it...shit would get stuck open and not close till you rigged it all back in. Needless to say the wood grain radio bezel was hard to find but this 97 outback had it and it was a perfect fit. I also grabbed the wood grain trim that goes around the shifter. Nothing was really wrong with mine but the one I got at the junkyard had less scratches/blemishes. All together 5$.

    Old shifter trim on left and new on right.


    I really need to stop being lazy with my picture taking because this picture sucks to but you can see both the radio bezel and the shifter trim installed.


    As far as junkyard finds that got installed that is it. However.....I grabbed a bunch of pocket goodies.:smt077 clips... EGR vacuum modulatorS...barometric pressure sensorS...oh yeah and a few manual trans. swap preparation goodies! These include a clutch pedal assembly and the shifter boot. I am a long way away from the swap but a small piece here and there doesn't hurt anyone.

    The clutch pedal assembly. (before I cleaned the hell out of it.) 10$


    Shifter boot in pretty good condition. 5$




    OK...enough junkyard parts... lets install something brand new yeah? Whiteline front sway bar end links. Thank God my Suby is from AZ because end links are not fun when you need to use a torch. No torch needed on mine but they were quite stubborn.

    Compare



    Installed.


    Installation is straight forward. The instruction's pictures suuuuucckkkk but with the labels in the pictures its fairly understandable.




    That's all the new goodies for now folks. Rear end links soon along with fog lights. Anyone want to share some good links for my manual trans swap? Questions and comments always welcome as usual. Thanks for checking out our Subaru story. I love this thing.


    -RONI-

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    SLi nOOb AssYriaNrocKer's Avatar
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    She was complaining about intermittent power loss. Like serious power loss as in the car is about to stall. I took it for a ride to verizon and yeah...fuel pump failed in the parking lot. I was able to rent a fuel pres. gauge from autoszone and diagnose it on the spot. When turning the key to the on position I noticed the fuel pump was not making a sound at all. I had her turn the key while I gave the pump a few love taps and sure enough it started making noise and the motor started. I had her sit in the back seat tapping the pump every so often and we limped home going about 30mph with about 10-15psi of fuel pres. lol Hey it worked.

    I have a Walbro 255 pump along with the full fuel pump assembly at my dad's house and I will be posting a fix soon.

    -RONI-

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    Manual swap is pretty easy. Let me dig through the posts that I used that helped me out with the wiring. Overall it is a pretty damn straight up swap and wiring. I did not pull my motor when I did the conversion, I did it ghetto style on the floor with jackstands and a floor jack. The auto trans is a frigging PIG. The wiring is easy, and you will run into some annoying clearance issues when you go to bolt in the pedal assembly as the wiring/carpet makes it a tight fit and you dont want the wiring to be pinched.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by meepers View Post
    Manual swap is pretty easy. Let me dig through the posts that I used that helped me out with the wiring. Overall it is a pretty damn straight up swap and wiring. I did not pull my motor when I did the conversion, I did it ghetto style on the floor with jackstands and a floor jack. The auto trans is a frigging PIG. The wiring is easy, and you will run into some annoying clearance issues when you go to bolt in the pedal assembly as the wiring/carpet makes it a tight fit and you dont want the wiring to be pinched.

    Wow I would really appreciate the thread sharing especially from someone with some auto/manual trans swapping experience. I believe you on the pedal assembly because it was a pain in the ass to pull it out of the donor vehicle. With all of the left over wires from the previous owners alarm system I would def. be having a tough time down there. I might finally look into removing the unused alarm system before attempting the trans conversion now that you say that....It should have been done a while ago anyway but removing old alarm systems can be intimidating. I would appreciate any help you send my way meepers.




    ----------------------------------------

    Fuel Pump

    So like I said, I was dealing with a fuel pump failure. My first thoughts where "oh no prob. I have an STI fuel pump assembly hanging around somewhere". The problem was this STI fuel pump assembly was fitted with a Walbro 255 fuel pump! With my NA motor I think it was quite obviuos that a Walbro 255 would be pushing far too much pressure for my stock fuel system. I ended up ordering an OEM replacement pump form Bosch. Part number 69499. I read a of a few people having installation issues regarding the wiring terminals but I had no such issue, it was a direct and perfect fit. So upon removing the old fuel pump and assembly the first thing I noticed was no filter on the end of the pump! :smt076 I am assuming this is what caused it to fail. The second thing I noticed was it was an aftermarket pump made by a company called "Carter", which I never heard of, so obviously the P.O. has replaced it before. I was happy to find the inside of the tank was spotless. No water (from what I could tell) no rust, corrosion, debris, or any other foreign materials. I did however find the filter sitting at the bottom....it looked brand new like when the installer stuck it in it fell off immediately and was never used. (btw i use the term "filter" loosely here...it's the sock/bag thing on the bottom of the pump not the actual fuel filter)


    Here is a comparison of the STI fuel pump assembly and the 98 NA Legacy fuel pump assembly that was retrieved from the tank.





    STI


    98 LEGACY (missing "filter bag")



    So there I was about to install the brand new Bosch OEM replacement pump when I thought (of course) why not try to "kill two birds with one stone" here. I remembered I was having an issue with fuel starvation during hard cornering. This would usually (if not only) happen during right turns with 1/4 tank of fuel or less. From what I understand this happens because the fuel is moving over to one side and leaving the pumps fuel inlet empty. To compensate Subaru uses what I think is called a "jet/transfer" pump on the driver side that pumps fuel over to the pas. side where the fuel pump is. In the older versions of this set up you see the "jet/transfer" outlet just leads to the general area of the fuel pump in hopes of keeping fuel near the fuel inlet zone. However in the newer versions of this setup found in (I want to say 04 and up) STI's the "jet/transfer" pumps outlet leads directly into what is called the "surge box" witch keeps the fuel directly around the filter bag, meaning the inlet has constant fuel flow around hard corners which means.....no more fuel starvation! Now this Legacy is no track queen but it sure is fun to drive. Hitting a corner half way decent and having the motor sputter to a stop due to fuel starvation is pretty upsetting. I decided to "see what I can do" and do my best to have the best path for that transfer pumps outlet to stop this fuel starvation once and for all. I used the pieces from the STI assembly and transferred them to my Legacy assembly along with the replacement pump. So here is a pic with some helpful "arrow thingy bobs" and names of "thingamajigs".



    As you can see in the picture the hard lines for the transfer pump outlet are longer on the STI version than on the legacy which meant I had to extend the rubber fuel line hose to reach the further away surge box. On the STI version the surge box also has some fancy bracket that holds the surge box in place. This bracket is not easily transferred over and I ended up not using it. To fit the surge box I cut the opening around the filter bag to be a bit larger to allow more room around the legacy fuel pump inlet. From there I connected the newly extended hose and left it at that. The box does not move freely and I feel confident the surge box will not move or fall off once installed in the tank. Also I will mention I read on a forum somewhere that one user had a difficult time fitting the surge box in the tank due to the tank being smaller and not allowing the box to fit forcing him to create his own home made surge box. I do not remember what year or model his Suby was but I can say that mine although slightly tight it did fit. I even installed it and then removed it, to make sure nothing moved and then reinstalled it. Here is a couple pics of the 98 legacy fuel pump assembly fitted with the new fuel pump (wrapped in a sound deadening rubber sleave) and the surge box with the extended transfer pump outlet.





    Just as a triple check I will be opening up the fuel pump again sometime after a tank or 2 to be 100% certain that the filter bag and surge box do not come off as it did for the previous installer. On a side note the sound deadening rubber sleeve was found on the old pump and I decided to use it again. I read up on this idea and lots of people were saying "what about the fuel pump overheating?" and to that all I can say is this vehicle was driven with that sleeve installed in 120 degree Arizona heat. I have full confidence that overheating did not cause the fuel pump to fail but rather the absence of the filter bag is what made it fail. This was a fun one and hopefully takes care of fuel pump and fuel starvation issues for years to come. I will keep updated.

    Rear end links and fogs still coming soon.

    Hope everyone had a safe 4th of July. :usa2:

    -RONI-

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    Damn.... Now I wanna get a complete sti pum/sender for my car. If you still lived in AZ I would have no problem helping you with the swap. I need to find all the links and PDFs I downloaded and will gladly send them. Having the fsm PDFs is great. Using my iPad in the car with every diagram needed. Saves time.

    Lemme do some hunting.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

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    Haha I didn't even realize your location was PHX. I do not regret my move but I must say I've lost a lot of valuable resources since moving. The full pump and sending unit can get pretty pricey. I got mine from my brother (Fatgc8) after an unfortunate end to his STI's life back in.....oh I want to say 2012? I've just had it in my collection of misc. parts this whole time. I sure do miss that car....

    No rush on the swap info. Its gonna be while before I can start that project.

    -RONI-

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    UPDATE!!!!!!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatgc8 View Post
    UPDATE!!!!!!!!!
    Nothing new to update really, everything is running the way it should. Still eating snow for breakfast like a champ...here she is with with the winter boots...again...





    Here is the future....lol Thanks fatgc8 for the early christmas gift! :smt066

    EJ257 short block

    Not happening anytime soon...but it will happen.



    I was a little worried about storing it so I used a product called Fogging Oil by Sta-Bil to protect from any surface rust that may occur. I then wrapped it in a blanket and then a giant drop cloth.



    -RONI-

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    The 4 runner has been taking a beating lately and sprung a leak! That's not gonna stop us from camping though...the suby stepped up to plate while the 4 runner waits for parts. I love this damn car...it is just so damn comfortable and fun to drive. Even though that power steering pump is leaking all over and actually starting to howl it handled the 5 hr drive easily on our first trip. Destination was Giant City State Park in southern Il. We actually ended up in a nearby campground to be more secluded, it was a great time. She is extremely dirty and tired in these pics but Ill post anyway. Got it dirty going through a little but of mud from the rain. It was a blast...and funny to see 2wd trucks stuck when I couldn't get stuck if I tried!











    Yes all of this fit without issue!




    Second trip was much closer to a some what local campground in Marengo, IL. Great spot to get away for the weekend. The very next weekend I might add...so no wash. It doesn't get much dirtier than this...so many dead insects.......








    When I installed the Ohlins struts I never replaced the strut mounts. Now with the stiffer suspension beating the hell out of the mounts you can only imagine how horrible it sounds on bumps! I have just placed an order for some Group N Subaru strut mounts. They should pair nicely with the Ohlins struts....wish I had done it when I was installing the struts but the funds where just not there at the time. Next I need to take care of the power steering pump. I was thinking about buying the gasket kit and just tearing it down....but maybe with the 04 STI steering rack in there it is demanding more than the pump can handle? Maybe I will rebuild it only to have it start failing again due to the stress of keeping up with the STI rack? I have done a little searching and haven't found anything about a pump swap. I know that the pumps are very different and require the reservoir to be mounted separately but I have not seen a write up of any kind ...yet....I will keep searching. If anyone has any info on this please feel free to share.

    Summer wheels going back on soon.


    I keep saying I'm going to replace those hideous dead fog lights.....I'm slacking.....

    -RONI-

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    Love the new carpet smell lol

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    Not much new on the GT. Replaced the old yellow top Optima with...well... a Yellow top Optima.lol In other news a did make a new purchase. As some of you may know my daily driver was a 1994 2wd 22re 5spd Toyota Pick up. This is not the greatest vehicle to be driving in the blizzards of Chicago. As a matter of fact it might be the worst...So I decided to part with it and get me a Subaru of my own. I sure did love that little truck but some times you just gotta let go and move on. The dude who bought it seems like he will care for it as much as I did...or at least try.

    Anyway I was looking to buy a beater. Something for 1k or less that I can do a little work to and drive everyday no matter the weather. I wanted the Outback but I also didn't want to end up buying something that was gonna need head gaskets in a month. I knew that the 1996 Outback was available in a 5spd with the reliable 2.2 motor but I only found one available in my area and it was a rust bucket! It squeaked, rattled and jangled all through the test drive and like a dumby I STILL made the guy an offer. Thank the Suby Gods that he declined my offer of 400$! After researching I found out that the updated versions of the head gaskets have "tabs" that can be used to identify a new vs. old head gasket Sure enough I found one not too far from my house with the tabs and decided to gamble on it. The guy took my first offer of 800$...I was a little sceptical that he was so eager to take my first offer. I really don't want to have to take this thing apart and do head gaskets....I just wanna drive it to work and back with maybe a camping trip or 2? So far I have done; timing belt, water pump, replaced RR door, plugs, wires, coil, diff fluids, radiator flush, oil change, rear struts, master clutch cylinder, slave cylinder, alternator, refurbished the wheels, new tires and alignment. Last week I also had it undercoated as a last ditch effort to stop the rust from advancing. In all I am 1800$ into this wagon and that includes the price of purchase/title transfer. I am happy with it thus far...it's been about 4 months with no issues other than the ones I fixed. (timing was off but no bent valves!) I even found the original dealership window sticker in the glove box!

    Here she is...1998 Legacy Outback Wagon 5spd N/A EJ25










    I'll miss my pick up forever...







    -RONI-

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