AssYriaNrocKer's 98 GT build

[AssYriaNrocKer]

OK....Update?

So this wagon has since gone from running great to running ok with a check engine light. Missfire codes Cyl. 1,3 and 4. Also the occasional EGR codes and Catalyst codes. The rack has torn and leaking boots...the exhaust is rusted from manifold to tail pipe beyond repair...both front axle boots are torn and axles are bone dry and rusty inside...and last but certainly not least ...I am pretty sure the "oil separator" plate on the back of the block is pissing oil. Everything is wet and I have to keep an eye on the oil level.

Anyway who cares this thread is about the Legacy GT limited not the rust bucket daily driver! With that being said....I have decided to junk the wagon. Not without keeping a few goodies of course. By goodies I mean MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Yes it is old, yes it needs to be resealed but it only makes sense. I have been waiting to do the trans swap on the auto leggy since day one and now i have the opportunity with almost every major component I need sitting right there waiting to be had. I have gone too long without any of my projects moving forward. Its time...

From what I understand thus far; I will be keeping the trans, rear diff, and hydraulic parts from the wagon. I already sourced a pedal assembly so I wont need that and the front axles are trashed so I wont be keeping those either. I will need to purchase a clutch kit that includes a fly wheel, front axles, and a drive shaft because I believe the drive shaft in the wagon will be slightly too long. If I am not mistaken the 5mt out of the outback should fit without issue and the X-member should bolt right up as well. I am using the outback rear diff. to pair the gear ratios being as the auto trans and diff. use different ratios which should also bolt up with no problem. I belive installing the pedal assembly and clutch master should be hassle free because from what I have read the firewall already has a cut out for the manual swap it just uses a rubber plug in that location for the autos. If you are wondering why I havn't just looked at my own firewall to make sure the rubber plugged hole is there it is because the car is hibernating. It is under a car cover in the back of my garage which is hard to get to. (I somehow fit 2 cars in a 1 car garage to hibernate over winter)

As far as what I will be driving...I am currently shopping. Looking at getting something like a 06-08 outback with generally low mileage with a 5mt. Something that is a bit healthier than this 800 purchase. I need to have a newer safer vehicle for the newest addition to the family. My first child was born on this past Christmas and he has been a blessing. A future Suby fanatic in the making!

So in conclusion of this post...does anyone one have any tips for my next mission?

Is it 100% certain fact that my drive shaft will not swap from the outback into the gt sedan?

Will the cross member fit directly on without modification?

Does any one have any helpful links?

Does anyone need anything from the Outback that I will be junking? It is 1998 Outback all weather package...let me know


And lastly...I have been doing a lot of searching as you can imagine and I have noticed that Photobucket has ruined tons of forums out there. Thousands of pictures not showing up in some very informative threads. Is there a fix for this? It would be such a shame to not have any pictures from past writeups. Are my own pictures even showing up in this thread?

[admiral snackbar]

I found this on NASIOC of all places and its been super helpful:
to fix your photobucket photos, you just add ~original after .jpg. It starts out looking like this when the photos are broken: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg[/IMG]

It ends up like this: Tdagen/image_zps8e8f28ea.jpg~original[/IMG]

And some of mine had some weird numbers in between the .jpg and [/IMG] like this:
/subysmashedup378.jpg?t=1257112242[/IMG]



From the other end, if you're using Chrome, there's an extension that fixes the images as well.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...giikdkpmcpkaon

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Admiral snackbar that was very helpful info. thank you! What a shame Photobucket would do something like this. Also....that is a a great username.



Before I could start my quest to "gear shifting" I had to find a replacement vehicle for my daily driver. As stated in the last post I was prepared to spend a bit more to have a safe ride for my new born son. With a little bit of patience and persuasion the new daily was found. A clean 2006 Legacy Wagon with 45k miles! Clean carfax, no rust, 5MT and such low mileage...I had to have it. Only problem was...the wife ended up liking it more than myself! It is newer and far more spacious then the daily driver she had (05 Impreza Outback Sport 5MT) and so we made a trade. She got the new 06 wagon and I took the 05 Impreza as my daily. I just replaced the clutch (in the Impreza) and I guess you could say I'm not complaining...but man I love that 06 wagon! So clean and still has that new car smell! Anyway here is a few pics before I move on.








Having two healthy daily drivers for us meant it was a big green light for the tear down on the 98 outback. It sure as hell was not easy. When I first purchased the vehicle I had gotten it undercoated to help prevent any further rust. Whether that helped or not I do not know but I can say that the LF control arm was so severely rusted I could have broke it with a couple hits of a carpenter's hammer! The undercoating made everything a bitch to remove! Every damn bolt had a thick coating of black, disgusting, sticky shit all over it. And guess which other car has been undercoated....yeah the GT... Regardless of the copious amounts of tar on the outback I got her done. I removed; axles, rear diff, transmission, flywheel, clutch cover/pressure plate, clutch cylinder, slave cylinder, drive shaft, and obviously shifter linkage. The shifter arms where pretty rusty so I did a bit of sanding and painting on those and I plan on doing the same to the differential. The axle boots were torn not to mention I buggered up the ends with a hammer trying to get them free so axles will have to be replaced. I have resealed the tail shaft of the transmission along with the access panel on the top. Now when I took it apart I found gaskets. Instead of replacing gaskets I decided to use the red sealant we use at work (Toyota dealer). It is a lot like the Fujibond stuff and it used mainly to seal transmission cases anyway so I don't see that being a problem. I did however use WAY too much but I doubt that will cause any problems either.

Under the knife...FINALLY!


Here is that crusty ass LF control arm. Anyone still rockin these old outbacks be warned this is a rust problem area along with the rear strut towers!


Here is what it looked like when I pulled it out. Dirty, rusty, and ugly. You may even ask yourself "Why is he even bothering using such an old high mileage piece of junk 5MT?" Well the truth is I am doing it because it is going to be cheap. Let's not forget the auto currently in the GT is slipping like crazy...and who actually wants to drive an automatic Subaru anyway. My wife doesn't even drive an auto...




You can see how the leaking oil separator plate left oil residue all over the bell housing. The whole thing was very difficult to clean and the end result is no where near perfect like it was on my 4Runner trans. swap...but IIRC I used some kind of steam cleaner on the 4Runner trans...this time around I used endless amounts of brake cleaner.



While I was working on the trans. and getting it cleaned up I had it standing up on a spare rim inside of a kiddie pool. This helped keep it stable without damaging the shaft and also kept the mess contained. I used a rubber glove to cover the seal so no brake clean/degreaser got into the transmission.



So like I said I used way too much sealant here but I am not too worried about it.



One nice surprise was a broken Shifter Bracket on the back of the trans. Two of the three mounting holes were broken and the previous owner decided to weld it back together. Well the welds did not allow it to sit flush and it was missing a bolt. Not to mention the ugly ass welds did'nt hold anyway. I ordered a replacement for $15 part number: 35033AA022

Here is a pic of the old broken one.



Here is a pic. of the new one Installed.



Here is what it looks like now after a little cleaning and resealing. Like I said not perfect but much better. I am assuming this will be replaced in a few years anyway given it has approx. 200k+ miles





I went ahead and bought a new dust cover for the shift fork ($20) because the old one was gone, aside from a crunchy little lip that was barley hanging on. Here is a pic for anyone still paying attention? I also ordered a new shifter return spring. Actually seeing as almost every 5MT is missing this piece I ordered 4 of them. They are like $1.25 each.




I pulled a few misc. pieces as well such as keyless entry module with fob (no pics) and also this hood scoop. The newer one being on bottom.



So along the way I managed to pick up a few goodies!

Kartboy shifter bushings front



Kartboy shifter bushing rear



I sanded and painted the whole crossmember and purchased RalliTEK crossmember mount bushings and a Group N transmission mount! If your wondering why it looks so shitty it's the undercoating. I wanted to install these tonight but there was soooooo many mosquitos in the garage tonight.....ffuuuccckkk that.



Here is a shot of the shifter arms after light sanding and painting with the front Kartboy bushings.



Last but not least I picked up this Prodrive Axle back Oval Tip exhaust. I am not sure if it will be bolt on or if I will have to Adjust or replace the hangars. Anyone know if it's a direct fit?? I will test fit when I have the old exhaust out for the 5MT install.








I was almost teary eyed...but not really.lol As you can see I removed the brand new tires that were on there and installed some Prius tires from work.



Things to ponder...

Will the outback drive shaft work in my GT?

The rear axles came out without the locking clips on the ends...will this be a problem?

Will the red sealant work as good or better?

Will that exhaust be direct fit or will it need to be modified in some way?

By the way I've come this far all on my own. I used some large tow straps to help lower the transmission without dropping it and it was a struggle but I got it done. I am thinking I may need some help with the automatic seeing as it is a LOT bigger.

Anyone have any input? questions? helpful tips?...I'm all ears..errr eyes...

Goodbye Outback you will be missed...but organ donors save lives.


-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Today I had time to throw on the Group N transmission mount and the RalliTEK crossmember bushings. When I removed the old bushings I noticed 1 pair was installed wrong. Instead of being on either side of the crossmember they were placed on the same side on top of each other...strange. Mosquitos are still out in full force so after that I pulled the GT in and called it a day. These mosquitos are going to be a battle now that its warm out.

Group N on left original on right.


RalliTEK crossmember bushings installed with Group N trans. mount. I got the "soft" bushings opposed to the "hard" Judging by how soft the originals were I am positive it will make a huge difference. The old ones were as soft as a sponge!


I am ready to start tearing into this thing. Should be fun... The wagon was kind of easy because I knew it was going to the junkyard so everything got a taste of the hammer. This time I will be a bit more...gentle.

I may have a connection on a better shape bumper locally. It is the same paint code...hopefully the shade is the same. Then again anything will look better then the current scratched, chipped, bent, and low hanging bumper that is on there now!


I will give her a good cleaning before I start....just for motivation purposes. I will do my best to take pictures and update this page along the way.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Remember kids, always unbolt the torque convertor when removing an automatic trans!

Look at the size difference here. That is one giant magical shifting box...and only 4 damn gears to. I have a spare 4:44 differential now if anyone is interested.



Currently I have all parts in hand and ready to be installed. The old stuff for the auto is all out as well. If you need any of the parts I am not using just let me know. On another note I am surprised by how tight the flex plate bolts are. I'm sure there is loctite on there but still seems really tight. I brought my breaker bars home today and will get them off tomorrow some time. Tomorrow I will also install the pedal assembly.

Yesterday I picked up a replacement bumper. I really dislike the small black portion that is under the headlights but actually I see it on a lot of these legacys. The bumper is not perfect but it will look 100 times better then whats currently on the car.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Since I had such a hard time dropping the auto trans I decided it might be a good idea to replace the rear main seal. I wondered if all the trans/engine movement flexed the seal and started a leak. I was debating at first but sure enough there was a drip of fresh oil behind the flex plate. I decided since I have it in stock anyway I might as well throw it on. After that and a little cleaning I threw on the freshly cut flywheel. Of course I forgot to take any pics of this.

I removed the bumper to have better access to the auto transmission cooling lines that I needed to remove and cap off. I threw the old bumper in the shed for the time being...anyone need it?...It's ugly.... I got the lines out and capped off the ends from the radiator.


Getting the new brake and clutch pedal assembly in was not the easiest thing that's for sure. If you are using the cable type shifter it would be a lot easier but I'm using the hydraulic setup, that came from the outback, which uses an extension rod that has to be routed behind the steering column to reach the clutch master cylinder. After moving a few wires and modules it is possible I promise. The TCU is also in this area by the brake pedal and I have left it plugged in for now. From my understanding there is a plug for cruise, one for ABS, and one for the trans. I am not 100% on this so I left it plugged in for now.


Cant wait to see a shifter here...


Next I will finish installing the clutch kit and throw in the rear diff. along with the trans and driveshaft. I still need to get some front axles...I may or may not have a connect on some used front axles for cheap.


That's all for today.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

I apologize in advance for not taking as many pictures as I would have liked to. I did every bit of this project alone and wanted to keep a forward motion instead of stopping to take pics every step of the way. Besides...dirty hands?...clean phone?...

After the pedal assembly was in I threw the clutch in. I had the old flywheel resurfaced and used a new clutch kit from Exedy. I recently had a bad experience ordering an "Exedy" kit from an online vendor so I decided to order straight thru Exedy this time. Worth every penny. I went with the KSB04 kit which is an OEM replacement kit that includes: pressure plate/cover, clutch disc, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, grease, and alignment tool. I'll mention here that when I was doing the throwout bearing it wouldn't fit! Come to find the previous owner used a sleeve with an oversized throwout bearing to fit over it. Generally you use a sleeve if the snout of the trans is marred and causing a noise. Seeing this, I figured the only way to get a bearing on here that I know 100% will fit is to buy a new sleeve and bearing kit because it is hard to find a bearing that will fit a sleeve...usually they come in kits together. After removing the sleeve....what a nice surprise...no marring or any damage whatsoever! Maybe the previous mechanic had it laying around? Or maybe it was a preventative maintenance item? Either way my bearing rides smooth with no noise I was happy.

Freshly cut flywheel that came out of the outback donor.


OEM replacement Exedy clutch disc.


OEM replacement Exedy clutch cover.


Once the transmission is in place the crossmember bolts into holes that are already there on the vehicle you just have to remove the rubber plugs. These plugs kept the threads in perfect condition! I just moved them over to the newly unused holes for the auto trans. crossmember. After that I installed the rear differential. Just a tip for anyone doing this, it is much easier (in my opinion) to leave the axles in place. I was able to lower the old diff. down and maneuver the axles out, and at the same time I was able to raise the new diff into place and smack the axles completely in. Next was the drive shaft. At first glance I thought I was golden....just throw it in and done...not so fast. The length was perfect but once it was bolted in I couldn't get the differential flange cover on because it would hit the driveshaft. The culprit was the center carrier bearing. On the outbacks it hangs 1 inch lower to accommodate for the lift of the outback. (I guess I forgot to mention the trans. crossmemebers on outbacks also have 2 1" spacers that I had to cut off) After separating the front and rear section of the shaft you can see a staked nut that holds the carrier in place. Remove nut, pull flange, pull bearing, and install it all back together on the manual drive shaft. After swapping the carrier bearing it fit perfect. For front axles I went with Napa brand rebuilds. I heard they use Subaru knuckles to rebuild and they were decently priced. Got the heat shields back on along with exhaust and then it was time for the hardest part (for me)....WIRING.

Anyone out there researching for this swap will find tons and tons of threads on the topic. The problem is when it comes to the wiring people have done many different things and have come to some similar results. Some people have no ABS, some have no cruise, some have CEL codes, and some have a low idle/stalling problem. What I have done here is gathered all the info I can fit into my little brain and used it to do what I BELIEVE to be CORRECT. With that being said, use any information on my build thread at your own risk. My vehicle is a 1998 2.5 GT Limited and my donor vehicle was a 1998 2.5 Outback...if you are using anything other than those two cars YOURS MAY BE DIFFERENT. (but prob. not that different.)

Ill start off by saying I have tried a couple different configurations of the wiring and came across some of the symptoms I listed above. What I have currently setup in the car is working so far with no stalling, perfect idle, no CEL codes (yet), functioning ABS (presumed functioning have not tested), working cruise control, and no other abnormalities. With that being said I don't really have any logged miles on the car just went around block a few times so time will tell if any codes come up....but I feel confident.

The Items that will need to be wired are as follows:

REVERSE LIGHTS

CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH

ECU IDENTIFIER PIN

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

REVERSE LIGHTS

The reverse lights will be wired into the inhibitor switch harness that use to connect to the 4eat. On the inhibitor harness you will be using pins 9-12 for this swap. The reverse light wires on my 5mt were connected to a grey 2 prong small harness. One wire of this reverse harness will go into pin number 9 of the inhibitor harness and the other will go into pin 10. To do this I just cut out the grey harness and used the other end of the inhibitor switch to plug the wire in. This way it is not a harness going to a harness its just one plug and not 2. Refer to the picture below.

CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH

The clutch pedal has 2 switches on it. The top one is the clutch switch you will be using. The lower switch I believe is used for cruise control. What I did was extend the 2 wires coming from the clutch switch all the way to the AC drain hose. The AC drain hose was an easy way thru the firewall and being that the wires are fairly small i am not worried about having any water leak from any gap created by squeezing the wire next to the hose. One of these 2 wire goes to pin number 11 on the inhibitor harness and the other goes to pin 12. This taps into the starter circuit which means you can only start the vehicle with the clutch pedal depressed just as it is intended to work. If you plan on any auto X or other type of racing this is usually checked on inspection. (From what I have read anyway) Refer to picture below.


VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

So luckily for me the vehicle speed sensor was exactly the same for the 4eat and the 5mt. I have not heard anyone else say this in their findings but in my case I was lucky. OK...not EXACTLY the same but same set up just different length wires. All I had to do was plug it in though. From what I have read sometimes you need to extend wires and other times you need to add wires that run straight to the ECU. It all depends on the years of the donor and the car your working on. I guess I caught a break on this one....good luck to everyone else!


NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH

This is where a lot of people differed in their findings. Originally I had this connected thru the inhibitor switch just like all the other wires and that made sense to me at the time. Having it connected thru the inhibitor switch caused me to have low idle and stalling issues which was very scary....coming to a stop with no brake boost is not fun. The reason this happens is we forget that the inhibitor switch does not report directly to the ECU but rather to the TCU. From the TCU the signal THEN gets sent to the ECU. The TCU has 3 plugs. I believe ones is for ABS, one is for cruise control, and the center pug is the shifting solenoids. With the center plug removed the idle drops to normal and you retain ABS and cruise. So like I said the TCU is not sending transmission signals to the ECU without that middle plug. You have to connect the neutral position switch directly to the ECU. To do this one wire has to be connected to pin number 82 on the ECU. This pin has a wire in it already...If I remember correctly it is blue with a red stripe and 2 silver dots. Cut the wire and connect it to the neutral position switch. The other wire of the Neutral position switch gets grounded.

ECU IDENTIFIER PIN

The ECU on my 98 has a AT/MT identity pin. Apparently for these years Subaru used the same ECU part numbers for both auto and manual, the difference being pin 81. On the auto this pin is left empty and measures 5v. On the manual this pin is grounded to show 0v. To convert your ECU to a manual you just plug in a pin and ground it. To do this I removed pin 80 and moved it over to 81. I then cut the wire and ran it to a ground. Pin 80 I believe is an auto diag. pin that is no longer used. Now that the ECU knows it is a manual you will no longer get any automatic transmission related code. I believe pin 80 is a pink wire.

Some pictures for reference...

This picture is kind of useless but I will include it anyway. Like I said I kept forgetting to take pics so this one was taken after I already put the ECU back. The red wire is my ground for pin 81. It is grounded to the body on a dash support. People say it needs to be grounded in a certain way yada yada yada....a ground is a ground 0v is 0v....haters gonna hate.


For the clutch wires I used a small 2 prong plug just in case it ever needs to be removed.



I have a FSM on my hard drive which helps a lot. Here is a reference to the Inhibitor switch. There are 2 plugs left over after you remove the auto trans. The bigger of the 2 will not be use. I just water proofed it and tied it to the side. The other one is the inhibitor switch that is used for revers lights and clutch pedal switch.


Here is my attempt at showing you how things are wired. Not super helpful but I am sure it will help someone out there.


So like I said I have not logged miles but as soon as I am done here I am going out for a drive and a car wash. I will keep this subject updated. I believe everything is correct and I should have no issues. If anyone has any questions or comments always free to chime as usual. Here is a few pics of the finished product. Maybe when I report back I'll post a few pics of this thing actually being clean.

This is the "new to me" bumper. Not a huge fan of the black line under the headlights but it is common on these years. I guess it doesnt look terrible...kinda like eyeliner for the car. As you can see I did not install the fogs because they were trashed and filled with water....time for a fog light upgrade. Decently priced suggestions anyone?


Interior



One last thing I would like to say is....I did this all alone. From lowering the trans to bleeding the clutch I had only 1 helper...this guy...


-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Currently have about 170 miles on the car after the swap. I can say that it drives great! Only bad thing to mention is 10 miles into it CEL came on: P1101 NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH (off). This didn't make sense to me because I know my wiring is correct so I erased it and moved on. 65 miles later it came back. Erased it again and it has yet to return. Yesterday I rechecked my wiring and even checked the voltage at pin 82 (neutral position switch pin). I got 5v when in neutral and 0v when in gear which is exactly what I am suppose to see according to the FSM. I am thinking that the switch maybe sticking at times. Maybe it has something to do with all the cleaning I did when the trans. was out. I used a ton of brake clean and degreaser which may or may not have caused an issue. Either way I believe it is an intermittent issue with the switch and has nothing to do with my wiring. I am going to ride it out until I see it becoming a frequently reoccurring issue at that point I will throw on a new switch. Other then that one small hiccup the car is running great. It is still an NA EJ25 so "fast" it is not exactly a descriptive word for this car but it sure is fun. Currently running the car with no axle back exhaust. With the UEL headers its fairly loud and attracts unwanted attention from the 16 year olds revving their Honda at me because I have a loud Subaru with gold rims... I hope to make it out to the muffler shop tomorrow to fab up a way to mount that ProDrive axle back.

Got in a quick car wash before the rain.












This here is the one ugly ass corner of the car. This fender has been repainted or something by the previous owner and its all chipping and there is no clear coat. I would love to get the whole car painted but that's expensive. Maybe I should just get this one fender fixed for now though. In this corner the hood seems misaligned as well. Not sure if it is the hood or the fender that is misaligned.


At 80mph it sits just under 4k. The outback was similar to this and I always thought that was a bit high. I know with the gear ratios being different my speedometer is no longer exact...I just don't know If it is too slow or too fast.....ratios and math is not my forte. I took it up to about 110mph and I'm pretty sure it was around 5k.


-RONI-

[Sub-Goon]

All speedometers read a higher speed than reality, the manufacturers see to that! Download a gps speed app on your phone to see what you are actually doing and compare to your speedo.

[webberjames95]

nice work keeping her going

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Sub-Goon you are correct. I used a GPS app and found it to read 5mph slower than my vehicles speedometer.

Webberjames95 Thanks man. It's a slow and long road but much more to come.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Garaged for the winter. Had a great time driving this thing all summer with no issues.

This year I will be leaving the 4 runner out of the garage and will have more room to continue any work and maintenance on the GT. Next on the list as of right now is steering wheel replacement and control arm bushings.

-RONI-

[ryu_haneda]

Hope you are doing very well. It’s been a long time since I’ve driven a BD GT, I saw one on the road and was like WOW

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Hope you are doing very well. It’s been a long time since I’ve driven a BD GT, I saw one on the road and was like WOW

Wow...no post since 2019...

I have been well. Well and busy. I have since sold the 95 Toyota 22re 4 runner. It was my baby for over a decade and took me on many adventures. However given the circumstances (divorce), I was forced to make some financial changes. I refuse to let go of the GT and the 4runner had blown rings so the choice was easy. I collected my pennies and continued to play with the GT. Unfortunately that has led to a minor setback, but rest assured I had a huge smile on my face the whole time.

It was the beginning of the pandemic sometime in February 2020 around 9pm on an eerily open highway. literally not a soul in sight; no police; no traffic; no one at traffic lights. I decided it was a great time to have some fairly safe fun on the highway. I do not condone unsafe driving on public roads ...I just figured it was so empty it was a once in a lifetime chance to have some fun right on I94. Going down a smooth straight away I was accelerating somewhere around 135mph (beyond the numbers on the speedo) and just under redline. As soon as I released the accelerator the engine shut off and was unable to restart. I was able to safely stop on my exit and was towed home by a co-worker. I have since purchased a new home and towed it into the new garage. She hasn't ran since but I have a decent garage to work in now: compressor, air tools, bench, engine stand, engine hoist, etc. So needless to say I just pulled her out and.....the rod bearings are toast! Bank one head did not seem to have any damage to the cam journals what so ever but bank 2 suffered some minor scoring. I am going to take the heads over to a local machine shop to get a better assessment. I am currently on the hunt for a 2.5 NA DOHC engine. Much harder to find than I expected. Might end up buying a whole running car and just pull the engine. YYESSS I do eventually want a turbo setup but I would really like to have this thing running in the mean time. So....Anyone local to southern Wisconsin have a 2.5 laying around?

Can someone verify for me, are my photos in this thread still viewable? I'll try to post some photos.

Hope everyone has been having as much fun as I have with their Legacy.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Finally found an engine! 2.5 DOHC out of a 1998 Outback. Purchased from Fairfax Salvage and Repair in Fairfax VT. I was told the car was running with no major engine malfunctions with 154k miles. Upon receiving the engine it was clear the head gaskets had been leaking for quite some time. After a quick power wash I drained and removed the oil pan. The oil that came out showed no signs of metal debris to any degree. Also yanked on the rods just checking for loose damaged bearings. No concerns found so far. I had some time to remove the intake manifold as well as the timing components. Valve guides look to not be dropping and in decent condition. So far the only concern I have is 1 stubborn seized exhaust stud. I was able to remove the other studs that were broken and damaged using a torch and vise grips. I am more than likely going to be sending the heads out to a machine shop for pressure testing, cleaning and surface decking. Hopefully they can help me out with the corroded stud. Here is a few photos to show you guys what I am working with here. So far I am fairly pleased with my purchase from Fairfax Salvage.





This is after the power wash.






I was able to remove the stud shown on the right but that left one is seized pretty good. I'm hoping the machine shop can take care of that one.


Here is how it sits for now. Christmas is here. Hoping for more positive updates after the holidays.



I'm excited to get this engine running and get this polished turd back on the road!


-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

I was pleased to see the oil staining was actually not that bad, indicating the previous owner likely kept up with oil changes. No significant scoring on the bores and journals either.


This is what the short block looked like before any cleaning was done.


I cleaned it up using lots of brake clean. I tried to remove as much of the corrosion and oxidation as I could using a wire wheel.





To keep the buckets in order I like to use little organizer boxes. They are like 4 bucks from Harbor Freight. I have the cams, caps, and buckets neatly set aside. I also have all the bolts soaking in white vinegar. I guess it helps remove rust and oxidation. We will see how well that turns out.


The heads were sent to the machine shop and returned pretty quick. I had them pressure tested, vacuum tested, cleaned, and surface decked. The guides and valves look healthy so I will not be messing with them.




So far It is going pretty smooth. I pretty much have 2 of everything so I can choose the healthier of the 2 options. I will be taking smaller items to work and use the parts washer to cook and clean some of the smaller parts. For the machine work I used Dons Machine Shop in Kenosha Wisconsin. I have used them plenty times in the past when I worked for Kenosha Subaru. I would imagine there are better shops around but I got a decent price and very fast service. Vacuum test shows 100% seal and no cracks on pressure test. .004" on the deck surface. Also they were able to remove the one exhaust stud that was seized. The surface of the head at the exhaust manifold side is very pitted but I will try and deal with that when the time comes. Maybe some exhaust gasket goop or something idk. Slowly but surely she is coming along. I have OEM head gaskets on order.


-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Boy these forums really died huh? Whatever I'm still going to keep updating this picture heavy build thread.

I have not gotten the heads on yet but I have been getting organized and collecting some more parts. Although I did not snap a picture I have decided to use the Phenolic intake spacers from Grimm Speed. The idea is to lower intake manifold temps while also increasing intake manifold volume. The science makes sense to me. I found it intriguing and decided to purchase it with the money I saved on the oil pick up tube. I will have to figure out how to extend the EGR pipe since the holes will now be 8mm farther apart. I will be running a Killer Bee oil pick up tube. Although it is their first generation design it is still far stronger than the stock original and I had it laying around the garage so no need to purchase one this time around. I did however purchase the Killer Bee windage tray which will help keep the oil down in the pan while also directing oil to the pan at a faster rate. The pan will be the OEM STI part number 11109AA151. Although it holds slightly less oil, it is shaped in a way that keeps the oil right at the pick up tube to avoid sucking air while the oil sloshes around during cornering. With this pan I will have to run the STI dip stick and tube. Parts ordered. PCV valve and repalcement OEM hoses have been ordered along with OEM oil pressure sensor and new oil separator plate.

I have 3 oil pumps on hand. 2 that came off of these older motors that are filled with metal shavings and scoring that wont be used and one that I had in the garage that is clean and ready to use. The pump that will be used is stamped with a 76 which I believe means it is a 10mm pump. I was hoping to be running an 11mm pump however this is what I have on hand and ready to use. The old pump is stamped with a 78 which I believe is 11mm. I will have to take these apart and take some measurements of the rotors for myself and find out. Maybe I can swap the rotors with they look healthy enough? Not sure....any ghosts out there want to chime in?


1st generation Killer Bee oil pickup tube Will be cleaned up and used this time.


Here is the entire exhaust setup. Borla imitation header, stock cat that needs to be replaced, custom bent pipe, pro drive axle back. Header has been removed and handed over too Herzogs Hot Rods and Fab for a small leak repair weld. Once I get that back I will be spraying some high temp coating and wrapping with Fiberglass exhaust wrap. It will be my first time wrapping an exhaust so should be fun. The cat will be replaced with a cheap after market unit. It is no longer available from Subaru but I need to pass emissions so hopefully the Evan Fischer replacement performs as its suppose to. I will spray the rest of the pipe with the high temp coating and buff the Pro Drive axle back. I also have some 10mm polyurethane exhaust hangers to keep it from wobbling around, hopefully they fit.



As for the old block I will be disposing of it. I removed the crank, rods, and pistons in hopes of making a cool lamp. The case halves will be recycled. Here you can see how bad the failure was. Number 2 and 3 rod bearings spun. The small photo below was suppose to be a video showing the moverment in the rods but I cant get the video to post properly. You're just gonna have to take my word for it.





I will update as I go. Also try to add some pics of the small goodies before they go on.



-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

I removed the oil separator plate and cleaned that pcv area out. That spot usually gets gunked up pretty bad. The plate bends easily upon removal and I believe is listed as one time use part. The older design had a plastic cover that always leaked. This one had 10mm bolts that I have not seen before. The correct bolts are 4mm Hex bolts (I believe). New plate and correct bolts in hand just waiting on some fresh fuji bond. The extra tubes I had all went bad.



I used OEM Multi layer gaskets.



Heads are bolted on.



Sprayed the header and exhaust with Heat resistant exhaust coating. Came out looking very decent, hopefully it lasts. Next is to wrap the header.




I stripped down the intake manifold and hot tanked it. Putting it back together should be fun. Lots of vacuum lines that need to be replaced and a very crunchy wire harness.



-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Got some fresh Fuji Bond and got around to installing the new oil separator plate on the back of the block. Also installed a new rear main seal. I know many of us have used various techniques for installing seals such as, large sockets, the old seal, or just a hammer. I can not stress enough how the right tool for the job is KEY to installing seals PERFECTLY. Granted, as a Subaru technician I have access to every special tool and seal installer available...But man it makes such a huge difference in ease and making sure you have your seal at the correct depth exactly where it was intended to be.


I want to keep all original hardware so I did my best to clean it all up. The hardware sat in white vinegar for about 2 weeks. This helped remove a lot of the rust and pretty much all of the sealant that was stuck to threads. The bolts came out a lot cleaner and with a dry gray finish to them. I have been hitting each bolt with the wire wheel before installing. Here you can see the dried bolts that just came out of the vinegar. You can see the 4 at the bottom there have been wire wheeled and ready to be installed on the coolant crossover pipe.

Oil pump bolts after vinegar treatment and wire wheel love.


Killer B windage tray installed with the Pick up tube. I'm lead to believe the pick up tube I am using is a first generation Killer B tube. It is far sturdier than the stock counterpart. I contacted Killer B about the 0 Ring that is used for the tube. I had an OEM O ring on hand but felt it was a bit small. Killer B motorsports confirmed that although they recommend their O ring kit the OEM o ring should seal just fine. Not gonna lie...I was a little paranoid and decided to use a little Fuji Bond on the outside of the O ring as a precaution.


STI oil pan installed. I was a little upset to see that this brand new part came out of the package all scratched up like that but decided to use it anyway. Gold plug magnetic drain plug installed. Group N motor mounts installed. USDM OEM oil filter installed.


Oil pump has been disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled. I used a dial caliper to measure the rotors and verify it is indeed a 10mm oil pump. I would have run the 11mm pump if I had one but I am ok with using the 10mm pump seeing as it is what Subaru calls for on this particular engine. Research shows more flow and psi can cause things you don't want such as heat and frothing of the oil. I doubt I will have an issue on this non turbo engine. I do not plan on doing any road racing at this time...just some spirited driving. New oil seal installed. I also installed the left side buckets, cam shafts, and caps. I decided to hold off on installing the right side. I want to go though the valve adjustment procedure before continuing. I have never adjusted this style head before and the procedure is a little different than I expected. Apparently you leave the cam installed and just push down on the bucket to remove and replace shims. I have the special tool in hand and will get to it when I get to it.
Cross over pipe installed. STI dipstick and tube installed but left loose to allow installation of timing cover. New OEM oil pressure switch installed. OEM water pump, idlers, tensioner, and belt on the way.



Party on Wayne...

-RONI-

[BD5_Legacy_RSb]

Got some fresh Fuji Bond and got around to installing the new oil separator plate on the back of the block. Also installed a new rear main seal. I know many of us have used various techniques for installing seals such as, large sockets, the old seal, or just a hammer. I can not stress enough how the right tool for the job is KEY to installing seals PERFECTLY. Granted, as a Subaru technician I have access to every special tool and seal installer available...But man it makes such a huge difference in ease and making sure you have your seal at the correct depth exactly where it was intended to be.


I want to keep all original hardware so I did my best to clean it all up. The hardware sat in white vinegar for about 2 weeks. This helped remove a lot of the rust and pretty much all of the sealant that was stuck to threads. The bolts came out a lot cleaner and with a dry gray finish to them. I have been hitting each bolt with the wire wheel before installing. Here you can see the dried bolts that just came out of the vinegar. You can see the 4 at the bottom there have been wire wheeled and ready to be installed on the coolant crossover pipe.

Oil pump bolts after vinegar treatment and wire wheel love.


Killer B windage tray installed with the Pick up tube. I'm lead to believe the pick up tube I am using is a first generation Killer B tube. It is far sturdier than the stock counterpart. I contacted Killer B about the 0 Ring that is used for the tube. I had an OEM O ring on hand but felt it was a bit small. Killer B motorsports confirmed that although they recommend their O ring kit the OEM o ring should seal just fine. Not gonna lie...I was a little paranoid and decided to use a little Fuji Bond on the outside of the O ring as a precaution.


STI oil pan installed. I was a little upset to see that this brand new part came out of the package all scratched up like that but decided to use it anyway. Gold plug magnetic drain plug installed. Group N motor mounts installed. USDM OEM oil filter installed.


Oil pump has been disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled. I used a dial caliper to measure the rotors and verify it is indeed a 10mm oil pump. I would have run the 11mm pump if I had one but I am ok with using the 10mm pump seeing as it is what Subaru calls for on this particular engine. Research shows more flow and psi can cause things you don't want such as heat and frothing of the oil. I doubt I will have an issue on this non turbo engine. I do not plan on doing any road racing at this time...just some spirited driving. New oil seal installed. I also installed the left side buckets, cam shafts, and caps. I decided to hold off on installing the right side. I want to go though the valve adjustment procedure before continuing. I have never adjusted this style head before and the procedure is a little different than I expected. Apparently you leave the cam installed and just push down on the bucket to remove and replace shims. I have the special tool in hand and will get to it when I get to it.
Cross over pipe installed. STI dipstick and tube installed but left loose to allow installation of timing cover. New OEM oil pressure switch installed. OEM water pump, idlers, tensioner, and belt on the way.



Party on Wayne...

-RONI-

Any updates?

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Any updates?

I wish there was! It's pretty cold and although my garage is heated I still haven't been overly motivated to be out there working on it. Currently I am procrastinating valve clearance measurements. I am hoping whatever shims I need I have in stock otherwise I will have to order them. Aside from household projects keeping me busy, I am also tired of the smell the heater gives off in the garage. it is an open flame natural gas heater. I have a small exhaust fan and a CO detector but still the fumes are so strong and it seeps into the living room. I have a neighbor with the same setup and similar complaints. Not fun, so I'll just try to embrace some patience and wait for the warmer weather. Thanks for checking in! Updates will come as soon as I make some notable progress.

-RONI-

[ryu_haneda]

Still nice to see activity in this forum. Think I'll make the rounds again...

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Finally made some more progress on this project. After figuring out how to use the Subaru special tool I was able to make my valve clearance checks. Not all of the valve clearances needed to be adjusted thankfully. The special tool certainly makes life easier but it took a minute to figure out how to use it as it does not come with any instructions. Basically you place the tool between the exhaust and intake valve of one cylinder. as you tighten the 10mm bolt the tool wedges itself so it sits still. as you turn the 17mm bolt the arms force down the buckets which allows you to remove the shim and replace with the correct shim after doing the magical mathematic equation found in the FSM. I'm not going to go into anymore depth on the valve adjustment at this time. If anyone needs any info I can share more details if requested. Unfortunately I did not have the required shims for exhaust valves on cylinder three but I was at least able to move forward with everything else while waiting for parts to arrive.

Here you can see just how the tool is placed. You can also make out the part number for the tool. 498187200 (Its expensive!)


Here is a closer look at the arms that push down on the buckets and how it should be placed.


So...Although I don't have the last 2 shims I need, I decided to move forward with everything else while leaving the one valve cover off. This included assembly of the intake manifold. It was a little confusing getting all the wiring and vacuum tubes back in order. I was able to get it done while also replacing the old cracked up rubber lines and retaping small portions of the harness. I cleaned of harness connectors and installed new large style zip ties in the stock locations. Before putting the intake manifold on I installed the previously mentioned phenolic spacers. Install was about as simple as can be. I used OEM gaskets on both sides of the spacer. The kit came with some fancy hardware which is longer than the OEM bolts for obvious reasons. The hard part was extending the EGR tube. I basically torched the S*** out of it and kept bending and stretching. Eventually I got it in place but it was not easy! The kit should come with a new tube in my opinion....just sayin. Timing covers were cleaned and installed along with the light weight crank pulley. A/C compressor installed.





I decided to replace the PCV tubing. Surprisingly it did not get damaged on removal like I expected it to so now I have a used spare if anyone needs one.



Here you can see the stretched EGR tube vs a regular one. It onle has to be stretch a small amount but it was very difficult.





Just waiting on the last 2 shims on cyl number 3.



Its nice to have less parts laying around and my work space cleaned up a little.



Next on the agenda was wrapping the exhaust header. Now this is my first time ever doing this and I gotta say I thought it would be easier then it actually was. I used a black fiberglass wrap with small metal twist ties as well as large metal zip ties. The metal zip ties are a little annoying to get tight but using a needle nose and a twisting motion while setting the locking ball inside the lock is what I did to get it as tight as possible. Once it was all wrapped I used a "thermo 2000 degree heat coating".

This is after wrapping just before spraying on the heat coating.



This is after the heat coating. I sprayed 1 coat and then with gloves on I tried to smooth down the fibers with my hands before applying another coat. I purposely used one entire can.








That's all for now. I forgot to mention I have plugs and wires on order along with those shims.

-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Couple more pictures of this PIG while I wait for the shims.





-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Finally received the correct shims. Apparently Subaru has decided to stop offering a lot of the shim sizes for this motor. Fortunately I was able to get my hands on the 2 2.58mm shims I needed. With all the correct shims in place I was finally able to close her up and drop her in. The clutch does not have many miles on it so I reused all of the parts except the throwout bearing. I didn't like the way it sounded and we had one in stock at work so I threw a new one on.









I'm doing my best to clean each part before installation. I took the radiator fans apart and hot tanked the fans at work while also getting the shrouds as clean as I could. The fan blades had some undercoating over spray on them so I imagine cleaning them will have helped with any balancing issue there may have been. Cleaned and installed power steering pump, alternator, and starter as well.





That's about were she sits for now. Time to crawl underneath and get the exhaust parts together.

Update more as soon as I get more done.

-RONI-

[ryu_haneda]

Very nice. Too bad you had to really work to get the part(s) required. Thanks for posting!

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Very nice. Too bad you had to really work to get the part(s) required. Thanks for posting!

Yes it was a little annoying but it was all worth it in the end!

She is running and has never sounded this good! I was a bit nervous with the used short block but very thankful it all worked out. Lets just say so far so good. No knocking or piston slap. Valves sound quiet and the valve ticky noise is gone. I am not sure if it is because of a better valve adjustment this time around or if it truly is the exhaust wrap keeping the headers valve noise down. Either way it sounds great. The only noise that is annoying me right now is the intake not having the intake resonator installed. I don't believe I ever had one but I can tell you one is ordered because that droning vacuum sound is way too annoying.

One problem I am having is power steering. I have no power steering and I cant seem to figure out why. I have tried swapping pumps to no avail. I tried draining and filling as well with no positive results. My only guess at this time is a collapsed hose. Maybe during the time the pump was just hanging out it may have kinked the lines and done some internal damage? I am not sure but that's what I am rolling with right now. New lines were only 85 bucks so I ordered new OEM lines.









Finally figured out how to upload videos.....errr I think. You can really here that intake vacuum sound in the second video!







Comments and questions always welcome. Ill keep updating as I go.

Next:
Oil change
coolant flush
fuel filter
power steering lines
find the dang title and get it registered!


-RONI-

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Picked up the intake resonator/silencer on ebay for 40$ and threw it in. Best 40 dollars ever spent! That intake humming noise is so obnoxious. I also read about some tuners insisting on the use of stock intake resonators due to air intake turbulence that occurs without it. I'm not sure about all that...I guess its plausible...but the noise was just unbearable. No more humming intake noise in the engine compartment.




This is looking inside the right front fender well where the resonator gets mounted.


Not sure if there is a small shroud that is missing or if this is how it is suppose to look from the factory but here is the air inlet.


Picked up a free battery. Not my choice but free is a good price. The one I had before was temporary as the posts were opposite sides.


A newer battery tray and tie down were installed with the battery as well. Here is a current photo of the engine bay. Looks good. Feels good. I have about 1000 miles clocked so far with minor issues. I did have an exhaust gasket fall apart and start leaking. It was a cheap paper type that I had on hand. Replaced that with an oem metal gasket which seems to be holding well so far. The only other issue I am experiencing is a p0400 code. EGR flow. I'm pretty sure it is due to the bends I made on the EGR pipe in order to stretch it to fit with the new intake spacer. I will have to see if I can just create a new pipe. It doesn't kick the code all the time. just once in a while. I just clear it and party on for now. Other than that motor feels great and drives great. Need a left front wheel bearing. Also haven't washed this thing AT ALL....gotta get on that.




-RONI-

[xrayspecs]

damn i love how the BD'S look. such a good looking sedan!

it does look like you are missing one part of the intake assembly, a small intake duct from the FSM.

[AssYriaNrocKer]

damn i love how the BD'S look. such a good looking sedan!

it does look like you are missing one part of the intake assembly, a small intake duct from the FSM.

Oh dang! Time to hunt that piece down. Thank for the heads up.

Some parts that have been waiting for installation. Momo steering wheel, JDM fogs, and new power steering lines.


-RONI-