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Thread: Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

  1. #331
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The "Vehicle Outline" is actually an *output* wire back for the security system and the keyless entry systems. It should output 12V in certain circumstances. The "Polarity" column is more of a note to me about what sort of signal exists on that wire, not necessarily what direction that signal is. The charts are intended to tell you what the equivalent pin is on each model. In this case it should be connected from A23 (US side) to A27 (D-type side).

    I really do not recommend you feed voltages into any pin that do you not know explicitly what it does. That can very likely end up damaging the cluster.

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    Rkrenicki,

    So i shouldn't have any issues related to the illumination dim being "GND" on the A-C Type JDM Non-BFM (A6) and the illumination dim being "12V" on the D Type BFM (B3)?

    I am preparing the harness and noted this difference.

    Also, let me take the opportunity to say thanks for everything in this thread. I wouldn't have the guts to do it if this didn't exist lol

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Apparently, the images in the thread here are incorrect. I had corrected that on the spreadsheet quite some time ago, but I guess I never took new screenshots for the thread.

    All of the "Illumination Dim" wires are 12v. It is the same circuit as what feeds the radio for its dimming function.

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    hi
    first of all awsome treat this is with a lot of info big complimants

    i have a Tk cluster nr85012060 i want to make a rewire harnas for it to fit my B4 but i cant find a diagram for a 12 060 can you help me with that
    my b4 has a cluster with the nr.15ae020
    big thanks al ready

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  6. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    It is an 85012AE060?
    yes it is sorry i fogot the ae stupid me

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    That would be an "JDM Types A-C Normal" cluster. The pinouts are included in the first post for that kind as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    That would be an "JDM Types A-C Normal" cluster. The pinouts are included in the first post for that kind as well.
    awsome mate thank you

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    Hi guys,

    Great thread so far, looking forward to putting this BFM i picked up yesterday into my 2002 BH9 Aussie Outback. Thought I'd post a picture as it has a different part number than I've seen here so far. I've already placed an order with Mouser for some plugs and pins.

    It came from a 2002 Liberty B4, twin turbo, manual, AUDM. Cluster part number is 85015AE180

    1 question I have is about the box which screws onto the back (I unscrewed it in the photo to see what was underneath it), I'm assuming it is for the original alarm or immobiliser? Can I remove it?
    What size wire have you guys used for the conversion harness? #18 or #20 gauge?

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  10. #340
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    The box is the inverter for the lighting. Leave it on.

  11. #341
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Right, the cluster is not part of the immobilizer on the EU/AU vehicles from that generation.

    I did have this part number on my master list of clusters, but I did not have all of the details since I never found photos of one. Can you tell me what the redline is on there? I cant quite make it out in the photo, but I do see that it is a 240km/h scale.

    Basically, as far as I can tell, it should just be a 240km/h version of the Japanese 85015AE040. It should share the same pinout as the normal JDM D-type clusters, since I know for sure that the UK and EU H6 clusters have the same pinout.

    As for the wire, I generally use 18 gauge since that is what I have on hand, but the power draw on these is quite low.. I am sure that 20 would be fine.

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    Thanks guys, I got some power onto the ignition and ground wires, here's how it looks.

    7500RPM redline (sad cause my motor wont even reach that yet)

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    Yep, that would match what I expected. Basically an 85015AE040 (D-type GT-B/RSK MT cluster) with the 240km/h scale from an 85015AE240 (S401 cluster).

    Thanks for the photo, I have updated my spreadsheet with it!

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    No worries, if there's anything else you want me to check, let me Know. It won't be going into the car until my conversion harness is done, about a week or so..

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    All done!

    If i ever do it again I reckon i'd just re-pin the original plugs, there's not much room for extra plugs and wires! I ended up cutting out the metal brace behind the cluster to give me more room for wires.

    Not sure why but i could not find the wires for the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk. I ended up just joining the BFM's C2 and C3 illumination wires and grounding the C3 wire.

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    There is a good amount of room on top of the AC duct, as long as you route your wires behind that metal plate.. Otherwise repinning is a great option.. I've done it on three cars now, the last one I removed the dash harness, stripped it all back and made it look as factory as possible... Although that does require that the dash pad be removed from the car.

    Otherwise, looks good! Can't argue with results!

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    Yea I'm happy, cheers for all your info and work you put into this thread.

    I do have 1 last annoying thing, the damn adjustable dimmer!

    I found a wire (A12 on the non-bfm which comes from the "illumination control module") that goes from .1v to 12 when you adjust the lights on the indicator stalk. But it doesn't seem to do anything for the cluster when connected to C2 or 3.

    I can't figure out how the 5v and input wires are actually meant to work.

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    I'm finally getting ready to install my BFM in my 04' LL Bean wagon. I think i'm going to go the route of re-pinning my factory harness as it seems to be the best solution given the limited space behind the factory cluster. That said, I have a question about the C2 & C3 wires. You mentioned twisting them together to get full brightness, which I understand based on previous posts, but then you also mention grounding the C3 wire. What does grounding the C3 wire accomplish? Like yourself, I'm a bit clueless in what to do with the factory dimmer switch. I'm happy to bypass the factory dimming circuit, if it gives me full dimming of the BFM with the headlights on and off, I'm just not really sure where to start in my process.

    Quote Originally Posted by crjohnson View Post
    All done!

    If i ever do it again I reckon i'd just re-pin the original plugs, there's not much room for extra plugs and wires! I ended up cutting out the metal brace behind the cluster to give me more room for wires.

    Not sure why but i could not find the wires for the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk. I ended up just joining the BFM's C2 and C3 illumination wires and grounding the C3 wire.

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    Sorry mate but i can't remember what grounding (or not grounding) the C3 wire did. I did end up not joining the C1 and 2 wires though. The dash was too bright at night!

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    Quote Originally Posted by hupshall View Post
    If you want to do this, it's probably the easiest thing about putting in the BFM - splice the three wires coming out of the BFM dimmer circuit to the corresponding three wires of the dimmer switch. You have to disconnect the dimmer switch from the regular subaru illumination module so you won't be able to dim any of the other lights anymore.

    Honestly, 5 minutes with the wiring diagrams available on this site will show you want to do.
    Maybe I'm making this WAY harder than it need to be, but after scanning this entire thread, I still have questions about the BFM dimming functions. I have looked over the wiring diagram for my vehicle, and have found this.

    It appears we have a Black wire (PIN10) a blue wire (PIN11) and a green/yellow wire (PIN 12)Name:  dimmer wiring.JPG
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    Are you saying I should splice C2-C4 into PINS10-12 and disconnect the dimmer circuit's factory connection to the lighting control module? Needless to say, I'll need to distinguish the line vs load side of the wiring, which should only take me about 5 seconds with a digital multimeter, but the ground is very obvious.

    Wouldn't it just eb

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    Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one left scratching their head regarding the dimmer functionality of the BFM and how to best duplicate that function with our US headlight stalk mounted dimmer switch. Can either the OP or another power user in this thread chime in with advise, tips or better yet pictures of how YOU got the dimming to work??

    Thanks...

  22. #352
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    In lieu of hacking up the factory dimmer on the headlight stalk, would it be possible to wire one of these in place, to allow dimming for the BFM backlight feature, both with the headlights on and off ?

    https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Dimmer-L...gateway&sr=8-1

    It seems this dimmer would wire up directly to the three wires from the meter harness, and given it's relatively small size, should be pretty easy to hide on the driver's left side, near the fog and cruise control buttons.

  23. #353
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I did make up a simple diagram for the dimmer.. let me see if I can find it...

  24. #354
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    Yeah, this is pretty easy - you're looking at three pins, which basically are:

    BFM C2 Which is +5v - - this goes to B71 Pin 12
    BFM C3 Which is Input, this goes to B71, Pin 11
    BFM C4 Which is Gnd, this goes to B71, Pin 10

    Seriously, don't worry about hacking your dimmer on the stalk, you probably never change it anyway.

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    Now, What I did - because I'm an absolute lunatic was make a little arduino board which reads the wiper stalk position and controls a dual digital pot that sends a signal to both the BFM and the Dimmer Control Module.

    The board is available here:

    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/pn7InHbk


    Code here:
    Code:
    #include <SPI.h>  
    int thermistorPin = 0;
    float Vcc = 5;
    //float rConstant = 2000;
    float thermistorSeriesResistor = 9960.0;
    //float buffer = 0;
    const int CS = 10;
    const float StepResistance = .04033;
    int previousStepValue = 0;
    
    void setup() {
      pinMode (CS, OUTPUT);   
      Serial.begin(9600);
      SPI.begin();    
      Vcc = float(readVcc());
      Vcc = Vcc / 1000;
    }
     
    
    float Resistance(int pin, float knownResistor)
    {
      int raw = 0;
      float buffer = 0;
      float Vout = 0;
      float R2 = 0;
      
      raw = analogRead(pin);
      if (raw)  
      {  
          buffer = raw * Vcc;
          Vout = (buffer) / 1023.0;
          buffer = (Vcc / Vout) - 1;
          R2 = thermistorSeriesResistor * buffer;
          R2 = R2 / 1000;
      }
      return R2;
    }
    
    long readVcc() {
      // Read 1.1V reference against AVcc
      // set the reference to Vcc and the measurement to the internal 1.1V reference
      #if defined(__AVR_ATmega32U4__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega1280__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega2560__)
        ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX4) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
      #elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny24__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny44__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny84__)
        ADMUX = _BV(MUX5) | _BV(MUX0);
      #elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny25__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny45__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__)
        ADMUX = _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2);
      #else
        ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
      #endif  
     
      delay(2); // Wait for Vref to settle
      ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start conversion
      while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // measuring
     
      uint8_t low  = ADCL; // must read ADCL first - it then locks ADCH  
      uint8_t high = ADCH; // unlocks both
     
      long result = (high<<8) | low;
     
      result = 1125300L / result; // Calculate Vcc (in mV); 1125300 = 1.1*1023*1000
      return result; // Vcc in millivolts
    }
     
    void loop() {
      float calculatedResistance = Resistance(thermistorPin, thermistorSeriesResistor); 
      //Serial.print("Resistance Reading: ");
      //Serial.println(calculatedResistance);
      
      int stepValue = 1;
      // if the calculated resistance is > 9.5 then just set the resistance to 9.5 (upper limit - 236)
      if (calculatedResistance >= 9.5)
      {
        stepValue = 255;
      }
      else if (calculatedResistance < 1)
      {
        stepValue = 23;
      }
      else
      {
        // calculate the STEP index is calculatedResistance / 39 which is the step resistance
        stepValue = (calculatedResistance / StepResistance) - 1;
      }
      
      //Serial.print("What the MCP42010 wiper needs to be set to: ");
      //Serial.println(stepValue);
    
      // Don't bother writing to the chip unless the value is different than what was just calculated.
      if (previousStepValue != stepValue)
      {
        previousStepValue = stepValue;
        MCP42010Write(stepValue);
      }
    }
    
    void MCP42010Write(byte value) 
    {
      // Note that the integer vale passed to this subroutine
      // is cast to a byte
      
      digitalWrite(CS,LOW);
      SPI.transfer(0x13);
      //SPI.transfer(B00010001); // This tells the chip to set the pot
      SPI.transfer(value);     // This tells it the pot position
      digitalWrite(CS,HIGH); 
    }

  26. #356
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Wow.. yea, that would work, but seriously overkill for what the job entails. It is seriously just three wires.. hah!

    It took me a bit to find it in my various notebooks, but this is the diagram that I drew up for someone last year.
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    HEY rkrenicki thanks for posting that up! Yes its only 3 wires and seems simple, but i'd never and thought to join the 2 wires at the module.

  28. #358
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    That essentially sets the illumination brightness to max for things like your HVAC and dash switches. If you do not connect the wires together, then all of those will be not lit. I connect those together right at the column.

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