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Thread: Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by hupshall View Post
    I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.



    I populated these components and tested the board:



    The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)



    I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

    Here it is all complete



    Seems to work just fine.
    When you populated the board, what resistors, diodes, caps, etc did you use? Soldering in some LEDs is pretty straightforward but I'm not sure what to use to populate the other components which are in the circuit. For example, the Security circuit connects to what's labelled as:

    R409
    D401 (which goes to pin 7 on the 30 pin connector)
    C415 & R410 (which I'd assume sets the time constant for the flashing?)
    the sport shift light bulb socket (easy to source)
    D171
    TR172 (perhaps a A1674?)
    CR512
    R174 (SMD?)
    R175 (SMD?)

    Any idea on these? Can you share where you found a diagram or what you did? It would be very much appreciated. I tried taking apart the USDM cluster I took out of my car and it's a different circuit... I have an Impreza cluster I can rob parts off of but this JDM board is a lot more complex than the USDM boards I've messed with before.

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I do have a European market cluster which has the security LED preinstalled, so I will take at look at the components there when I get a chance.

    That said, I know that R174, R175, C512, D171, and TR172 are for the sportshift backlight, not the security light.

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    Thanks rkrenicki, much appreciated!

    I was just tracing the lines when I came up with those...I definitely could have traced wrong but I believe that one side of the sport shift light is in line with one of the security light diodes. Please do let me know when you have a chance.

    -Romy

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    Super informative thread! Thanks for all who contributed.

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    Well, after stumbling across this thread, I bit the bullet and bought myself a 85015AE080 cluster for my 2004 H6 LL Bean wagon. My cluster came with about 6 inches of wire as well as the plugs for the three connection on the cluster side. That said, I have a few questions.

    #1 Do the sockets from Mouser include the necessary male pins and a short bit of lead to solder a small gauge wire to? It is tough to tell from the pics and I'm hoping to build an interface harness, as opposed to re-pinning the wiring in my car.

    #2 Are the halo rings supposed to be a very dim beige/brown color? Even at full brightness, by joining C2 & C3, the halo ring colors look pretty "washed out".

    #3 What a good source for the small gauge wiring used in auto harnesses? This looks to be 20-22 gauge wire based on my wire stripping tool.


    Thanks in advance...

    Justin
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiveZigen View Post
    Super informative thread! Thanks for all who contributed.
    I second that. I'm very excited to get my BFM cluster installed.

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    #1 Do the sockets from Mouser include the necessary male pins and a short bit of lead to solder a small gauge wire to? It is tough to tell from the pics and I'm hoping to build an interface harness, as opposed to re-pinning the wiring in my car.
    The male connectors do have the pins in them, but be very careful soldering to them as the plastic has a tendency to melt. I recommend removing the pins, trimming them down, soldering, heat shrinking, and reinserting them. They just pull straight out.

    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    #2 Are the halo rings supposed to be a very dim beige/brown color? Even at full brightness, by joining C2 & C3, the halo ring colors look pretty "washed out".
    It looks to me that several of your halo bulbs are burned out. They are quite a bit dimmer than the backlight, but they should be pretty noticeable either way.

    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    #3 What a good source for the small gauge wiring used in auto harnesses? This looks to be 20-22 gauge wire based on my wire stripping tool.
    Any electronic store or auto parts store will have it. Otherwise there is always Amazon or even Mouser.com

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    Back to the P0462 Error code on non D type BFM's - Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like this code gets thrown if the input voltage on the ECU monitoring pin of the fuel gauge circuit drops to 0. Honestly, I'm thinking who the heck cares? I'm going to throw together a simple circuit that just always provides 4v to the ECU monitor pin and see if that stops the code from being thrown. It's always a transient fluctuation in the cluster anyway and why the heck the Subaru decided that having a faulty fuel gauge should throw a check engine light I don't know... I'll report back, the parts are OTW

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    I believe it to be aging solder joints for the connectors on the cluster. I think that the fuel gauge source pin on the cluster has intermittent connection due to a cold/poor solder joint. But, being that I have not worked on an A-C type cluster in quite some time, that is pure speculation.

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    rkrenicki - did you ever get a chance to look at the components on your European market cluster with the Security light?

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    Ah, I had forgotten about this. I pulled it apart and snapped a photo moments ago.
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    I hate to be a pain, but I can't read that SMD capacitor or resistor on that board (C415 and R410). Can you check what they say? At least R410; I'd presume a SMD cap of the same size as the C61-C64 group would work and they don't appear to have values on them. I'm also wondering if there's anything connected to the lower part of that circuit. Specifically in the red circle below:



    Sorry to keep bugging you. I've been trying to buy an Euro cluster off of the UK ebay for a bit now, and the guys parting cars there are super flaky and don't want to send pictures for some reason.

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    Are you asking these sellers for pictures of the inside of clusters?

    As for the parts, decoupling capacitors rarely are labeled with values, but I would guess something along the lines of 0.1uF at 16v. The circled item is a double via, likely connecting to the ground plane of the board. As for the resistor.. I guess I will have to take the cluster apart again. I will try to get to that sometime during the week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    Are you asking these sellers for pictures of the inside of clusters?
    I'm simply asking for pictures of the clusters themselves. I just want to confirm it's a black face meter and has no damage.

    Thanks for taking apart your cluster again. My background isn't electrical so this is a learn as you go kind of thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Romy View Post
    I'm simply asking for pictures of the clusters themselves. I just want to confirm it's a black face meter and has no damage.
    The BFM was quite uncommon in Europe. It was only on the Turbo B4 in mainland europe, and on the 2002/2003 Outback H6 in the UK. As such, the non-H6 meter is still in Kilometers, but is "LHD" so the inverter box on the back on the opposite side.

    The UK market 2002/03 Outback H6 meter is the only BFM that has an MPH scale, but is only available as an Automatic and the tachometer is tuned for H6 engines.

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    I've been searching for a 85015AE110 or 111 BFM cluster for a while now. I like that it reads in MPH and includes the security light. If you ever decide to sell yours, I'd be interested.

    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    The BFM was quite uncommon in Europe. It was only on the Turbo B4 in mainland europe, and on the 2002/2003 Outback H6 in the UK. As such, the non-H6 meter is still in Kilometers, but is "LHD" so the inverter box on the back on the opposite side.

    The UK market 2002/03 Outback H6 meter is the only BFM that has an MPH scale, but is only available as an Automatic and the tachometer is tuned for H6 engines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    I've been searching for a 85015AE110 or 111 BFM cluster for a while now. I like that it reads in MPH and includes the security light. If you ever decide to sell yours, I'd be interested.
    I actually do have one available. I currently have three in my possession, and only two cars that can use them. I was going to be listing it for sale at some point, but I havent gotten around to it. I will try to get some pictures later this evening and post it up.

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    Is there a part number or source for the light bulb sockets that illuminate the halos? I thought I had a light out on my BFM, but to my surprise the entire socket has gone missing. It must have rattled out and disappeared behind the dash, as I haven't found it rolling around on the floor. I haven't found it stuck in some nook and/or cranny either...
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    The part number earlier in the thread (which I havent looked through at the moment) is for the bulbs with sockets for the whole cluster.. When I get home, I will find the post and quote it here.

    EDIT: Found it back on page 9.

    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    I was able to get my hands on an original halo bulb kit. There are 8 bulbs in total. The Subaru part number is 85091AE000.


    6 of the bulbs are the larger 14V3WL made by Toshiba. These have a blue base with a yellow paint mark.


    The other 2 are the smaller Type 80 bulb, also made by Toshiba. These have a black base with a blue paint mark.


    Toshibas part number for the larger bare bulb is A7824. It is a 6.5mm-T2 W2.2x5.2D wedge rated for 214mA @14V, with 15 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "61 431"
    Toshibas part number for the smaller bare bulb is A7429. It is a 5.0mm-T1.5 W2x4.6D wedge rated for 140mA @14V, with 8 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "80"

    The type 80 bulb is physically the same as a Type 74, except that its operational life is 5 times longer. (5000hrs vs 1000hrs)

    I am trying to find a US source for these bulbs, and I will update this once I find them.

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    The bulb holders are Toshiba V-2, available on Amazon, ebay, etc.. Just look for a T5 twist lock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    The part number earlier in the thread (which I havent looked through at the moment) is for the bulbs with sockets for the whole cluster.. When I get home, I will find the post and quote it here.
    Did you ever get around to documenting the process to wire the BFM into the US dimming circuit on the turn signal stalk ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    Did you ever get around to documenting the process to wire the BFM into the US dimming circuit on the turn signal stalk ?
    I have not.. I did write it up earlier in the thread, but the process of taking pictures requires me to pull stuff apart, and I just have not been motivated to do that as of late.

    Perhaps I will make a drawing instead..

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    If you want to do this, it's probably the easiest thing about putting in the BFM - splice the three wires coming out of the BFM dimmer circuit to the corresponding three wires of the dimmer switch. You have to disconnect the dimmer switch from the regular subaru illumination module so you won't be able to dim any of the other lights anymore.

    Honestly, 5 minutes with the wiring diagrams available on this site will show you want to do.

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    Question cost for PCB BFM adapter ?

    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    Not a problem! I am glad to have helped!



    Unfortunately, I do not. It was not a cost effective item to build ($80ish in parts, and hours of time to assemble), and people did not want to spend $125 on an adapter, so I stopped making them.
    Any chance you might have the time/interest to make a one-off adapter for my 85015AE110 BFM cluster? I bought the cluster off of you last year, and haven't yet gotten around to installing it into my '04 LL Bean wagon.

    I was thinking about doing the whole harness myself with the mouser pins and socket adapters, but your PCB is just too nice to ignore. If you DID build another adapter board, what would it cost me? I know you said it's cost prohibitive, with $80 in parts and hours of labor, but could you give me an estimate anyways?

    Feel free to PM here if that's easier...

    Thanks in advance,

    Justin

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    Question need help wiring up an 85015AE110

    First off, as I've said before, thanks to EVERYONE that has contributed to this thread over the years, but especially rkrenicki. After sitting on the BFM cluster I bought from rkrenicki for over a year, I'm hoping to get it installed before snow flies. That said I've got a few questions.

    After looking at the first few postings, I have a question about the wiring necessary. I have a 20004 H6 wagon that I'm planning to install a 85015AE110 Type D cluster into. Before buying the 85015AE100, I had bought an 85015AE80 cluster which registers in kilometers. After comparing the two sets of wiring plugs, there appear to be some MAJOR differences between the two clusters from a wiring standpoint.

    That said, what I'm seeing leads me to believe that each BFM cluster has it's own specific wiring setup, aside from the basic 12v battery, ignition and grounds for the cluster itself. Can anyone kindly supply me a wiring diagram highlighting the pin wiring for my 85015AE110. I can very easily match the wire colors in my existing USDM cluster harness to the wire colors for the 85015AE110, but the last thing I want to do is fry my rare and somewhat expensive 85015AE110 cluster by somehow putting a 12v for a turn signal where a ground for another gauge is supposed to go.

    Thanks a million guys...

    Justin

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhill1977 View Post
    After comparing the two sets of wiring plugs, there appear to be some MAJOR differences between the two clusters from a wiring standpoint.
    All D-type BFM clusters have identical wiring. I am 100% positive that the chart is correct for the 110 that you have, as well as the 080. The only real differences between D-type cars would be the optional wires such as Automatic Gear indicators, VDC, or Sportshift wires being absent or present.

    The pigtails that I included with the 110 were very likely from a US car and have US wire colors, so do not use that as any sort of guide. They were just something I picked out of my bin-of-connectors. The C connector shouldnt even have any wires in it at all since it was brand new.

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    Awesome, so all the talk I saw about requests for wiring diagrams and excel docs are a moot point? It didn't even occur to me the plugs you sent were likely from a USDM vehicle, now it makes more sense. I just tested both my 110 clusters with my 080 plugs and everything seems to be working with one odd exception. Can you confirm that the LED for the seatbelt reminder is missing from the 110 cluster? The icon is printed on the cluster cover, but there's no bulb LED bulb behind the indicator. Oddly, my 080 cluster has the LED, but it's missing from both my 110 clusters. Gain the MPH speedometer gauges ,but loose the seatbelt dummy light...GRR

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    Well.. you would know better than me by looking at both of your clusters. I would have to pull the one out of my car to check, but if you have two different 110 clusters and neither has an LED there.. then I guess there is no seatbelt light.

    I thought the 110 did have one, but I cannot really say without looking, which you have already done.

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    I just figured I'd ask, as I was pretty sure you've got at least one of these clusters installed in your fleet of Super Subarus. :-)

    On a related note, what's involved in installing an LED for that spot ? I know a question was asked about adding the security LED, to the non-UK BFMs, but seeing this bulb doesn't flash, I'm assuming it's a much easier install?

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    Question Did I find an error in wiring charts ??

    SO, fellow BFM fans, I've got a question for the group.

    In the D-TYPE BFM wiring diagram, A27(VEHICLE OUTLINE), the white-red wire is listed to connect to 12V. But in my testing outside my vehicle dash, if I hook this to 12V and then trigger any open door or the trunk by grounding that wire, my whole cluster goes dark. Grounding this wire, like any of the door or trunk triggers does nothing.

    Oddly, in my factory H6 cluster, grounding the same wire at position A23 (VEHICLE OUTLINE) does indeed cause the vehicle outline to light up independently of the door triggers. But just as with the BFM gauge, it's marked for 12V in the wiring diagrams supplied earlier. Feeding 12V as listed in the USDM wiring chart does nothing.

    Has anyone else run across this anomaly ?

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