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Thread: Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

  1. #361
    Hi guys, been reading through this thread and you all seem like a brainy bunch so would love to try get some assistance, i have a 2000 b4 legacy revision c with the black face cluster, now the other day i noticed that my ring lighting was not working in some areas so went to replace the bulbs. I used some out of another cluster but i think now that they were the wrong sort, i plugged it all back in and could smell a bad burning smell so switched it off and now i have no ring lighting at all, the clock no longer holds memory and resets to 1:00 every time the power is off, the trip meter also resets when the power is off and the door open display no longer works... Does anyone have anything i could try to attempt to fix it, i suspect i need to replace something on the pcb but im not sure what to look at or for... Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

  2. #362
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    Sounds like youve fried the constant power source.

    If you have a spare cluster id swap that in

  3. #363
    Yeah that was my next plan, was just hoping I could maybe replace whatever I fried to save some money and keep the same kms etc, but it might be too far gone I dont know lol. Thanks for the reply!

  4. #364
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    Yep, without seeing some high-resolution pictures of both sides of the board, it would be hard to say what went for sure.. but if could be repairable if it were just a burned up trace. Perhaps you can find someone local with some electronics experience who can jumper out any burned traces.

  5. #365
    Yeah when it happened I took it out and had a good look over the pcb but couldnt see any visual damage, traces looked okay, all the caps etc looked fine with no bulging or leaks. I suspect maybe a transistor or resistor issue maybe? Or any of the other little ones (not quite sure what those are called) But I'm not 100% sure on how to test them... I could pull it back out and grab some photos, but its not sounding too promising lol

  6. #366
    **Update** all is fixed now, it turned out to be a fuse on the pcb, it looked like a capacitor and is orange in colour. Since it looked like a capacitor I never tested it previously, but once I did, it failed a continuity test. Desoldered it and replaced it and now everything is back to normal!

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    I'm really impressed by the skill level and workload that's gone into these mods, very interesting reading, thanks for posting it up. Have to say, a lot of it goes over my head as electronics aren't my strong point.
    I'm having trouble with my car, it had a BFM from the factory, a C type I believe. Anyway the cluster melted itself around the larger A plug/socket and now it doesn't work anymore. I have repaired the loom and plug but can't find a replacement cluster anywhere. All the ones I can find are type D. I have been sent a type D one in error and have bought a non BFM unit to see if it worked so now have quite a collection but still can't drive my car!
    Does anyone have any ideas,either where I could find a type C cluster or if it's possible to modify the wiring for a type D to work? Or is it easy to wire up the non Bfm to get me back on the road? The wiring diagram I have doesn't show pin outs for the turbo non Bfm. . . .
    My burnt unit is part no 85015AE020, it's a manual car but I believe a type A,B or C cluster from an auto would also work .
    Any advice/ pointers very welcome
    Thanks Joe
    Last edited by motorshed; 03-15-2020 at 01:11 PM.

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    Hi all an awesome job you have don all, i'm doing the same convertion on my legacy 2002 4cyl but i have a problem with the connection of the 3 illumination wires the 5v one and the ground and the input do thy have any thing to do with the halo lights blinking.
    any help and thank you in advance

  9. #369
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rami View Post
    Hi all an awesome job you have don all, i'm doing the same convertion on my legacy 2002 4cyl but i have a problem with the connection of the 3 illumination wires the 5v one and the ground and the input do thy have any thing to do with the halo lights blinking.
    any help and thank you in advance
    Blinking halo lights generally indicates that it is missing a ground or a power wire. There are more of these wires on the BFM than the normal cluster, so you need to split/add more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorshed View Post
    Does anyone have any ideas,either where I could find a type C cluster or if it's possible to modify the wiring for a type D to work? Or is it easy to wire up the non Bfm to get me back on the road? The wiring diagram I have doesn't show pin outs for the turbo non Bfm. . . .
    There are wiring charts at the start of this thread for every type of cluster, so you could do a conversion from the A-C type BFM to D type BFM based on those.

    As for where to find one, Yahoo Auctions Japan will likely be your best bet. Use a proxy service to buy from there and have it shipped to yourself.

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    thank you very much and it works as you said.
    And it works very nice but another thing happened that the door opening indicators keep telling me that the left front door is open... i tried to open the other doors but it does't indicate thy are opened.

    What do think the problem is

    thanks

    best regards

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    I've got a question or the OP and other's who have already completed this project. For those who used JAE connectors on the "JDM side" of the interface board, what sort of crimping tool did you use for the IL-AG5 connector ends?

    I was lucky enough to snag the last prototype board from Hupshall (many thanks), which has the JAE connectors on both ends.

    I suppose I COULD splice two ends together that already have the crimped ends to complete my plug to plug ends, but I'd rather NOT have 62 soldered splices to troubleshoot down the line if something goes wrong.

    I've read some stuff about the Engineer PA-09 and PA-10 crimping tools, as well as the PAD-01 KIT. I'm just not sure which crimp tool will work for the JAE IL-AG5 ends.Name:  IMG_20200623_204302.jpg
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    A Million Thanks in Advance...
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  13. #373
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I highly recommend the Engineer PA-09. You can get them on Amazon.co.jp for cheaper than anywhere else, and they will ship worldwide.

    https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B002AVVO7K

  14. #374
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    Thanks for the recommendation Rkrenicki.

    I just ordered the Engineer PA-09 crimp tool from Amazon. I went the US route, as it will be here by the weekend, along with my IL-AG5 pins and 18 pin socket from Mouser.

    It's only taken me TWO YEARS, but I can FINALLY see the finish line for this project.

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    Well, I've got my adapter board all soldered and my adapter harnesses fully assembled and tested. My cluster will be installed tomorrow...wish me luck.Name:  IMG_20200626_233156.jpg
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  16. #376
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    If anyone else is looking for one of the UK market 85015AE110 clusters.. I just stuck the one from my "RS30" project up on eBay. This does include my PCB adapter too.

    I am open to some reasonable offers, and I am more apt to accept it if it is done outside of eBay and do not have to pay their fees. You can PM me here, or message me on facebook.

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    Thanks to this awesome thread I was able to do this in my 2002 liberty RX. Managed to pickup some white LED's to make the rings look nice. If i was to do this again I would have extended the wires as it does become a tight fit once you add on more wires.



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    Started my harness build. Talk about tedious.
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    @rkrenicki just to be sure, what are the proper positions for the door pins? is it just swapping the fronts or all left and rights?

    US A7 LF BLU/WHT should go to the JDM BRN/red @ A25?

  20. #380
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    I labeled the pins for their absolute position rather than "Driver Front"/"Passenger Front", so Left/Right Front is accurate between both charts. Basically: Connect Left to Left and Right to Right, and do not go by color for those.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    I labeled the pins for their absolute position rather than "Driver Front"/"Passenger Front", so Left/Right Front is accurate between both charts. Basically: Connect Left to Left and Right to Right, and do not go by color for those.
    thanks, maybe one day ill find a dang car to use this in...still searching!

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    @rkrenicki I looked but couldn't find anything on the kph converter. Was there any progress on replicating them?

  23. #383
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thwipp View Post
    @rkrenicki I looked but couldn't find anything on the kph converter. Was there any progress on replicating them?
    Not really. I switched to the Dakota Digital SGI product which was far more flexible since it could be adjusted, and I did not do any additional work on the SVASpeedos part. Looks like the newest version is the SGI-100BT.

  24. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    Not really. I switched to the Dakota Digital SGI product which was far more flexible since it could be adjusted, and I did not do any additional work on the SVASpeedos part. Looks like the newest version is the SGI-100BT.
    oof. i was already unhappy with spending $50 lol.

    at least i'm familiar with dakota i suppose, i've installed multiple of their setups over the years so i know its a quality part. i think i have one of their fan controllers in a box somewhere waiting to go into my FC for an electric fan swap.

    i picked up an oem dimmer wheel from an older subie to use as a separate dimmer control. i figure its just a pot and would work, will report back here on that one.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334107932972

  25. #385
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Yea, the new SGI-100BT seems to be quite a leap in price. At the time the SGI-5C could be found for around $50.

    As for the dimmer, as long as it is just a plain-jane potentiometer, then it will work just fine. I've used some generic potentiometer in my testing rigs in the past, as it is just looking for a voltage divider.

  26. #386
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    so the dimmer switch i bought was for a 2000ish legacy but it's too big for any of the blanks. gonna search for one that fits unless anyone knows off hand what to look for.

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    hey @rkrenicki ive sent you a couple of pm's. are they not going through?

  28. #388
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Sorry, I do not check my PMs very often here anymore. I just replied to the one about the ECU.. I do not see any others from you though?

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    i sent one a month or so ago asking if you had the files for the conversion board as i wanted to build myself one, doesn't matter now.

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