5spd swap need wiring?

[harrymaneuvers]

You are correct about Mostars instructions.

yes you will splice the two wires together that are for the AT shift lock... you will see these wires when you remove the AT shifter.

[jjay03]

Ok thanks.

For the starter relay I think ill just take the one out of the donor car.

[jjay03]

The other large connector going to the trans just gets left unplugged I guess?
Under the console there was a few sets of wires also which ones do I need to connect. There was a red and black on the left side going to a solenoid and 2 black wires on the right going to some kind of indicator and then 2 going to a bulb that I guess I can just unplug.

[couchfuzzy]

this is the link dump of everything that I used to complete this swap:

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... rical.html

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13168&p=203200&hilit=ecu+pinout#p203200

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111 ... -help.html

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2461780

http://www.legacycentral.org/library/tr ... ronics.htm

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t86304- ... -swap.html

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... on-107199/

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.p ... 58323.html

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.p ... 36840.html

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ual_scans/

[couchfuzzy]

i also went with a plug and play method for it all in case i'd ever need to put in a 4EAT again

[jjay03]

Reading in one of those links that subikid posted it looks like its the little black indicator piece on the right side. Do you need to leave the solenoid connected tho on the left side cause it looks like one of those wires runs to it in the diagram.

Reading on the surrealmirage.com link he just unplugged the shift lock controller. Guessing that might cause cruise control issues tho not sure. The surrealmirage link also says he swapped cruise computer but those looks to be the same between manual and auto on second gens.

I seen for abs to work you said to keep the white connector plugged into the tcu also. Im not sure mine has a white connector. Do you know if it is B54, B55, or B56? Bottom post here says to unplug the center connector.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1329308

[jjay03]

I got into the wiring a little tonight after work.
First I pulled out the shifter from my 98 and was able to see the connector the wires on the shifter traced to.

Then I got the starter relay and clutch switch connectors out of the donor car. I was able to keep the wire connected that goes from the relay to the clutch switch also after cutting away some tape from the main harness. The relay is a yellow tan color ill get a picture of it later.

Also since no one seems for sure im going to try and just keep the shift lock controller unplugged and see if that works ok. Will help with the clutter under the dash.

[couchfuzzy]

pull the wiring diagram bro, in the '95 at least, the shift lock box was integrated into the fuel pump circuit...i'll have to check under the dash tomorrow to see about the connector to the TCU for cruise and ABS.. i dont remember off the top of my head

[jjay03]

Not trying to be smart but if i could figure everything out from those diagrams I wouldnt be asking here. Thanks for checking.

[jjay03]

This is what the starter relay looks like on the 97.

[harrymaneuvers]

Sorry for the late reply.

The two wires going to the shift lock module connector should be cut. Then crimp on a male quick disconnect to one wire and a female quick disconnect to the other wire. Plug the two disconnects together.

This basically tells your shift lock to stay in unlock permanently.

The TCU which is up above the pedals should only have two connectors on it not three.

Here is my whole build. You will notice an index of all important topics about halfway down the first page.

Here are some notable sections you should read through pertaining to the MT swap:

viewtopic.php?p=319838#p319838
viewtopic.php?p=321124#p321124
viewtopic.php?p=322581#p322581
viewtopic.php?p=323367#p323367
viewtopic.php?p=334081#p334081

I dont have notifications set up to tell me when someone posts here so if you have questions, it might be quicker to msg me on facebook. PM me your name and I will friend you.

[jjay03]

K thanks I sent you a PM.

[jjay03]

Are you suppose to just cut pin 82 and wire into it or just splice into it?

[couchfuzzy]

The pin slot is blank, you'll have to add a pin and then ground it... ECU reads 5v for AT and 0v for MT

[jjay03]

You mean 81 i alrdy got that one. Im talking about 82 for the neutral.

[jjay03]

Awesome my 98 is missing a bolt hole for the pedal box also.

[harrymaneuvers]

If you are really concerned about it, just drill and tap a hole for it OR get a pedal box from the same year and engine of your car but in MT.

If your car doesnt have the bolt hole for it then I would assume that the correct pedal box doesnt have a mounting point there.

[jjay03]

Different pedal box but I had to cut off the same parts this picture shows. Pedals are installed but that was hell lol.

[harrymaneuvers]

Squeezing the pedals in is the hardest part.

[jjay03]

I got the starter relay wired up and the cruise wired up.

For the neutral should I cut pin 82 so the wire from the trans goes to it only?

[couchfuzzy]

Awesome my 98 is missing a bolt hole for the pedal box also.

ah man i know how frustrating that is, i had to drill 3 holes into the firewall for the master cylinder with no reference point at all...

i ended up drawing up a template in AutoCAD and printing it out, lol

[jjay03]

Well I think all the wiring is done I just need to connect the wires by the shifter for the shift lock. I picked up some of the splice heat shrink connectors with the solder in them and those thing are awesome! I might add some loom later on its just electrical taped right now.

[grayguy]

Gonna do a full write up?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

[jjay03]

Yeh either that or just add in some missing parts to another write up. Some good info out there but definitely a lot of gray areas. Getting everything nice and fitted under the driver side dash is the biggest pita by far. I barely had enough room to tuck the TCU under the lower knee panel. With the 5mt pedals the tcu would not fit in its original location.
Crossing my fingers it fires up tonight.

[jjay03]

Well got it all back together and started it up and its missing. I decided to take it down the road and it ran great! Came back and it started missing again. It will run fine for a few minutes then it will start missing.

The reverse lights do not work either I dont get it. I followed the diagrams I dont see how I could of mixed it up but thinking maybe the reverse and neutral connections are mixed up? Why would that cause it to miss tho?

The code I got was p1507.

[couchfuzzy]

hmm...this may help:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1196685

[jjay03]

Yeh why i think maybe my wires got reversed somehow since my backup lights dont work either.

[jjay03]

I got ready early for work this morning and went out to check the connections. The wiring was correct so I unhooked the connectors and put some dielectric grease in them and reconnected them. The reverse lights worked now so that was good and when I started it it did not miss.
It idles at about 1500 rpm though but it possibly could be the throttle cable being too tight. The cel is still on also so I need to pull the code and see if it is the same. I brought the cable to work to I might check at lunch.

Thinking about maybe wiring in some aftermarket connectors and ditching the stock ones now.

[jjay03]

The P1507 came back I need to rewire that I guess with new connectors and I might get a new neutral switch.

[grayguy]

get all your problems worked out?