I also completed the Snorkus Delete, Torque Box Delete and the Hybrid CAI, but I did it a lil different than I have seen. Mine uses almost all OEM parts! So I should be able to pass smog with out having to change stuff out, not that it is a big hassle. I used the Intake pipe off a '96 Legacy 2.2L and should have grabbed all the associated hoses, but I got it sorted. Just needed 4' of 1/2" hose for the Valve Cover Breathers. Most people seem to use the Weapon R or the "Ebay $30" unit, which both are probably better and larger in diameter, but for now I wanted a factory look, at least till I judge if it works well!

In order to hook this up, I had to block 2 connections on the new Intake pipe. I only had (3) 1/2" hoses and (5) fittings. The 1/2" Vacuum plugs were to big so I just fit the 3/8" ones on!
Here's the next thing I did a little different. Most people seem to cut the elbow off the Snorkus, where it enters the Airbox. I want to be able to revert back to stock easily. So I used this for the elbow, that way its pulling air from the front of the fender.

Here you can just see it entering the AirBox from the fender well and ziptyed in place

Here it is inside the fender well, pointed forward. The red arrow is pointing out the duct that pulls air from behind the headlight and dumps it just in front of the new elbow!
I have a few more ideas to add and upgrade this setup. I'm going to add a Spectre Velocity stack to the elbow, so that the air has a smooth transition into the intake duct. Then a K&N Filter Sock over the Velocity stack,

to limit water, sand & dust enter the system. Change out the Fram filter for a K&N, unless the next idea pans out. I am going to investigate using a MAF adapter and HKS filter, inside the Airbox! I also want to provide a better source of cold air to the inner fender, and not from behind the Foglight, where it gets dirty and wet! Maybe a post'99 Legacy duct from the radiator support?! Will it fit?! After that, if I keep going on improving it, it'll mean getting rid of the bottle necks. Which means an aftermarket mid-pipe between the MAF and TB.
Since I was doing the battery cables at the same time, it made it easy to do the ECU reset. Once I was done the battery had been disconnected for several hours (10 mins is recommended) and then the only other thing to do was start it up and let it idle til it was at normal temp. Then I took a drive for close to 45mins! It is definitely noisier engine wise, its also more responsive. I'm not sure if I gained or lost any HP or torque, but it did fine. I am happy with the increase in response. And the drive I did was up a steep hill, 2k feet over 10 miles?!? It climbed nice and seemed to keep pulling from low rpm to high (5-6K?!).