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Thread: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bumper

  1. #61
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
    600 grit will work fine for sealer or base coat. I wouldnt go any finer though.
    Thanks Dead!

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Pics of the last couple months' worth of progress...

    JDM GT-B rear bumper - sanded, repaired, step pad holes filled, primed, 320 wetsanded, and ready for next step:




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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    JDM door trim strips obtained from the UK. These were in good used condition, a little dirty. Most of the mounting tabs have been broken off. One strip cracked and chipped at the corner during shipping and required repair. A tapered end cap was being held on by silicone caulk. I cleaned them, removed the old adhesive, and repaired the chip and crack with a combination of Gorilla brand Superglue, 2-part epoxy for plastic, and a cheesy repair product from the autobody supply shop called "Q-bond". After the repairs I shaped and sanded the repaired areas, then sanded off all the original green paint (gobs of elbow grease), applied adhesion promoter, and sprayed flexible primer.

    On arrival:




    Cleanup:



    Hmm how to fix this??


    Gorilla cyanoacrylate on the crack:


    "Q-Bond" - essentially little bottles of plastic "sand" and some basic cyanoacrylate superglue. Pour the powder into the gaps in your repair piece, then drip the glue onto the powder, and it instantly hardens.


    Cut some voids with a Dremel to give the repair material some volume:


    Q-Bond applied:


    Pulled the masking tape off the other side after the glue harned overnight. What a mess.


    Sanded the repair smooth:


    Sanding. This took forever:




    Two strips were black plastic, two strips were white plastic. Probably not originally from the same car. All cleaned up:



    Two-part epoxy to fix this loose end:



    Prepping for primer - taped up my never-used JDM sidemarker lenses, and masked over the back of the trims where double-sided trim tape will later be applied:



    Adhesion promoter and flexible primer sprayed:

  4. #64
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    JDM grille I got awhile back for cheap. Chrome is flaking off pretty badly so I am going to try to restore it.



    Taped the edges so I don't oversand the boundaries, and started in with some 220 grit. Another thankless job. I need to put in another hour or so because of all the curves and nooks.



    This is the product I will try out. I read very mixed reviews, so I'm not getting my hopes up too much. It requires very careful prep with a very finely sanded primer underneath. Another complication is that the JDM grille factory chome is "smoked" or darkened a little bit, and this product is bright chrome. Dead has said that one way to get the smoked chrome appearance is to shoot clearcoat, tinted with a little bit of black base, over chrome. This is what I will probably try. I don't know if there is a flash window to shoot clear over this chrome spray or not - I don't want to wait too long after putting the chrome down if the clear won't adhere.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    After a few hours of careful sanding on the JDM grille, I finally removed 99% of the old chrome. Because it was so much fussy work doing all of this, I am probably not going to use the spray chrome after all. If the chrome spray sucks, I don't look forward to redoing all of this. I will probably shoot it in Black Granite Pearl to match the car. If I really want chrome I will consider getting another JDM grille in better original condition.

    The center section is coated black from the factory, but the bare plastic is grey underneath the paint and chrome. It almost looks like it has been primed but that is just bare plastic:




    I masked the black painted edges to protect them from getting accidentally sanded, but couple a places got slightly nicked anyway.


    I then spent a least an hour masking it up for primer:



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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Your dedication is astounding. I have no good workspace to do this kind of thing, so all of my work tends to be quick and dirty.
    2002 Outback H6 VDC "Blitzen 6"

    Quote Originally Posted by Lancaster6
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by Muse
    Your dedication is astounding. I have no good workspace to do this kind of thing, so all of my work tends to be quick and dirty.
    Thanks... the down side is that this car is sort of consuming my life right now. lol

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Eh. I haven't got a life, so that'd be fine by me.
    2002 Outback H6 VDC "Blitzen 6"

    Quote Originally Posted by Lancaster6
    A sherpa could rip ass somewhere high up in the Himalayas and my Prius will be blown almost off of the road.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Time for an update I suppose.

    Grille primed in grey and sanded with 400 grit:




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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I got a couple cheap IKEA wire racks with casters to stack and roll parts around easily.



    I put my trusty sawhorse on a furniture dolly, but I needed a flat board between them for the legs to fit:


    I over-engineered this easy-change filter system for the inlet air fan. I probably should have just taped the
    filters into place, but oh well lol:



    The slot in the paint booth sheeting where the fan goes:


    Inlet fan in position:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    GT Sideskirts cleaned, scuffed, and scratches filled. Needs a pass of adhesion promoter then some high-build-
    primer in black and then sanded to fill in the texture of the bare plastic:






    Filler sanded smooth with 220/320 grit:



    Handy dandy sawhorse on wheels in action:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Also on tap is to color match these JDM Mud Guards/Spats. They are flexible rubber so they will require special attention (flex agent). I wondered if I ought to leave the side that faces the tire unpainted, but I was told by Huffer to paint/clear the entire exterior:



    Cleaning them up... all 4 spats had the old original mounting tape still stuck on the back. The tape on the two rear spats came up fairly well:



    ...But the two front spats had horrible, torn and dried up mounting tape that wouldn't let go:

    Ugh this job SUCKED big time lol

    Yummy gummy:


    Cleaned, cleaned, cleaned, and finally clean, will be ready for fresh 3M trim tape when it's time to mount them up after paint.

    Ready for the next step before color-matched paint. Should I scuff the smooth surfaces with 400 grit, then apply adhesion promoter, then skip primer and go straight to base coat? Should I do base/clear with flex agent? Or should I do single-stage Black Granite Pearl with gloss and flex agents to keep the build thin, but glossy and flexible?


    If I paint the whole exterior of the spats, I hope that this situation doesn't destroy the paint on the side that faces the tires come wintertime:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    The paint on the inside will get messed up. It did on mine.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
    The paint on the inside will get messed up. It did on mine.
    Thanks Dead, in that case I will probably make a soft edge transition at the crease.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    So, how would you paint a part all around (including inside edges) that you can't hold with your hand (handling marks in wet paint), can't set down before spraying (one side or the other won't get painted) or after spraying (wet paint gets ruined), can't hang loosely on a stick or cylinder (would make a paint spray shadow or might get blown around from the air pressure of the paint gun), but still be able to securely grab or turn over to get complete coverage? Here is what I came up with, lol:




  16. #76
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Lovin the home made booth! Are you using spray can or gun? Looking good so far, can't wait till its all done.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by r3v_v3ng3
    Lovin the home made booth!
    Thanks, here is the only wide shot I have, with one wall open for access:


    Quote Originally Posted by r3v_v3ng3
    Are you using spray can or gun? Looking good so far, can't wait till its all done.
    Thanks, I have a pair of cheapie HVLP spray guns. I got them several years ago from Costco, of all places:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I have been posting updates more frequently on the SL-i Facebook page, so I will be trying to carry over some of those posts over to here.

    I had asked for some advice on refinishing the faded BK roof rack and these window trim pieces as part of my repaint project. Dead and others told me to use rubberized trim paint, so that will come in good time.The trims come from the factory with a slightly rubberized finish. Over time, they have developed a crackled appearance, like cracking clearcoat. The window trim looks like shiny metal underneath, and has a flexible tape-like coating on top:



    The giant closeup of my thumbnail marks shows how soft the trim is:


    Here are a couple version of the trim paint product:
    Gloss Black, Aerosol: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LKP1I/ref ... W6E8C7FINI
    Gloss Black, Pint: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3I0JZ4/ref ... ZUE1EJ1UE3
    Matte Black, Aerosol: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EM019O/ref ... 9MO8ZHXJTS

    I tried various trim conditioners last year when I spent a couple days detailing the car and evaluating the overall paint. I couldn't get those marks out at that time, so last week I tested wetsanding with 1500 grit, followed by various polishing compounds. With a bit of work, some of the marks will buff out. I don't know it I can match the factory glossy finish afterwards, though:


    Closeup - gently wetsanded at 1500 grit, before polish:


    One of a few polishing compounds I tried (by hand, not machine):


    The last product I applied before wrapping up tests that day:


    Closeup of the polished, tested trim (left) vs. untested, unpolished trim (right):

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I had to troubleshoot my small HVLP gun... last used several years ago, all the old seals/O-rings were swollen, broken, or dried out. I ordered a rebuild kit from ebay a couple months ago and finally got around to putting the thing together. Generic gun with basic diagrams in the documentation aren't specific enough to tell me which exact O-ring goes where, but I think I might have finally solved all of the air leaks and material leaks:



    Made it to the paint shop late in the day last week and picked up some material at NorthWest Auto Paint Supplies (black epoxy sealer, clear, reducer, flex and activator). They did a test mix of my paint code 54A Black Granite Pearl, but it didn't come out right, so they asked me to leave my gas flap so they could try to mix it correctly the following day. I brought lots of photos, a couple trim parts that will be painted, and my small and large generic HVLP guns for them to see what I'm working with. I've managed in the past to successfully paint single-stage, panel-at-a-time with my small gun on my little compressor, and it would work well on mirrors, trims, and spats, but the paint shop guy said that gun would be too small for 2-stage work on the larger items (bumpers) that I have ready to shoot. My compressor is 110V, 1.5HP, 15 gal, 4.9SCFM @ 40PSI and is just adequate for my small gun, but the big gun consumes 10CFM @ 43PSI, so I thought I was going to have to catch some bigger air. I spent an afternoon doing some testing, and I think I will be able to make it work with the compressor I have.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Custom mix Subaru 54A Black Granite Pearl. The first base coat test mix that the paint shop tried came out very brown, so they had me leave the gas door with them overnight as a reference so they could try again the following day. I picked up my base coat the following day, they told me that they nailed the color on the next try. I haven't cracked open the can yet to see. There is only 2 quarts or less in that 1 gallon can.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Again attacking the problems of handling and "wraparound paint", I built some holders for my JDM Door Trim Strips. They are ~1"x2" boards cut to length and drilled where the trim mounting tabs fit through. The boards were covered in blue masking take to keep wood splinters from blowing around into my wet paint. They are just wide enough to be stable when set down on a flat surface, but just narrow enough that the bottom edges of the trims are not obscured by the boards, so the bottom edges can be painted:




    Then they were taped with extra sticky green tape to the trims to keep them in place. The boards also solve the problem of the trim strips being very flexible and quite droopy if not supported along their entire length:



    Holds fast, even upside down:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I shot epoxy primer over my GT side skirts to get things kicked off and test my setups. The guy at the paint shop told me to skip the reducer in the mix on the first two coats if I wanted to fill in the fine texture and get a smooth finish. I had already sanded the skirts down pretty smooth, then sprayed adhesion promoter and spotted in spraycan primer over the filled scratches, and then wetsanded everything quite flat, so there was really very little texture left. The epoxy went down with more texture than I was hoping, so I had to sand it down nice and smooth again before I shoot the sealer coat.

    Bare plastic, filled and sanded fairly smooth before primer:


    Adhesion promoter:


    Spot primer:


    Wetsanded and cleaned:


    Epoxy primer sprayed from the big HVLP gun, after another pass of adhesion promoter:


    That fine texture of the unreduced epoxy primer:



    Epoxy wetsanded smooth with 400 grit, thoroughly cleaned, and ready for sealer coat:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    simply incredible!!!!!! looks amazing, I cant wait to see everything done and mounted. Love it man I just love it!
    Sloanaconda
    Todd Sloan
    1998 Subaru Legacy Outback

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by Sloanaconda
    simply incredible!!!!!! looks amazing, I cant wait to see everything done and mounted. Love it man I just love it!
    Haha thanks, I've never known anyone to get so excited by primered parts! lol
    Thanks for the kind words though. I hit a speedbump with my first basecoat/clearcoat test, so hopefully I can get that solved and your excitement (and mine) will be justified

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I continue to work on this project, even though the updates here haven't been keeping up.

    A couple weeks ago I shot basecoat/clearcoat with flex additive on a piece of test sheetmetal and the four rubber JDM spats. My logic was that I wanted to be sure that I had an accurate color mix before shooting sealer on the plastic parts such as the bumpers, since that would put me in a 24-hour recoat window. If it turned out my color mix was off, I probably couldn't get it corrected before the recoat window had expired. Since I figured the flexible rubber spats should have a minimum material build to help keep them flexible, I felt I did not need to apply epoxy sealer to the spats (and the paint shop was in agreement). The spats would become part of my sprayout test along with the scrap of sheetmetal.

    The color was good, but I was plagued by a contamination problem of some sort which caused some ugly "fish eye" defects. I undertook a lot of troubleshooting, but was unable to determine *exactly* what the problem was. However, I think there may have been a surface irregularity issue with the rubber surface of the spats that was part of the problem, even though they were repeatedly cleaned, scuffed, and sprayed with adhesion promoter prior to basecoat.

    I sanded down much of the work, resprayed basecoat, and had some improvements but there were still defects due to operator error. If I remember correctly at this point I had intended to shoot clear at this stage, but the batch I had mixed had already gelled up in the mixing cup and couldn't be sprayed. I called it a day at that point and decided to start fresh the next day.

    I sanded everything down to a smooth surface again with a much finer grit, resprayed base coat again, then took stock of the items. I was still finding some minor imperfections, so I carefully wetsanded the surface yet again, this time being very careful to not burn though the last layer. A week or two later I finally did I respray the clearcoat, and thankfully, no more fish eyes. It wasn't until later that I read that metallic basecoat is not supposed to be directly wetsanded due to color shifts, so the spats came out slightly less dark than the other parts. I also had a significant dry clearcoat overspray issue in the paint booth for the spats and several other parts as well, so many items had to be carefully wetsanded (1000/1500/2000/4000 grits) and then polished up afterwards. As you might imagine, I am pretty sick of wetsanding, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do, right?

    Basecoat/clearcoat test - color and gloss are good, but orange peel and fish eyes are bad:


    Spats - first attempt. Fish eyes, yuck.




    At least the paint shop's custom color mix was a great match. Here the freshly painted/clearcoated spat is compared to the original factory finish of the gas door:


    Defects sanded away, but I not only burned through the top clearcoat, but also the basecoat down to the bare rubber:


    Re-sprayed basecoat. Sanding scratches are still pretty obvious underneath:



    The ring of burn-through can be seen under the fresh basecoat:


    I waited too long to spray the remainder of this batch of clearcoat with flex additive - it turned into a dead jellyfish on the beach:


    It's actually I good thing I didn't shoot that clear, because I wanted to re-sand at 1000 grit to conceal my sanding marks from my prior work:



    A third(!) attempt at basecoat and I put it on a little heavy... I had a sag in the wet paint that never fully flowed flat on one spat:


    Sand again. Fun times. lol. Special attention to the sag to flatten it out. This was before I learned not to sand metallic basecoat before applying clearcoat.


    Ready to respray clearcoat:


    A few days after clearcoat... I had to wetsand and polish the orange peel and overspray.


    Again, the flex additive seemed to turn the clearcoat mix into a gummy consistency before I was finished shooting, and my parts ended up with a fibrous mess when I tried to spray the second coat of clear:



    Finally shiny:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Maaan, you have incredible patience... Honestly, between you and Robin, I think the PNW is set for good paint guys... If you somehow got Thom out there to care for the cars after they're painted, everyone on the forum would migrate there...
    2002 Outback H6 VDC "Blitzen 6"

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    A sherpa could rip ass somewhere high up in the Himalayas and my Prius will be blown almost off of the road.

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    Quote Originally Posted by Muse
    Maaan, you have incredible patience... Honestly, between you and Robin, I think the PNW is set for good paint guys... If you somehow got Thom out there to care for the cars after they're painted, everyone on the forum would migrate there...
    Mostly it's a comedy of errors, but hey, I'm learning, right? lol I havent posted the pics yet, but my GT sideskirts came out great with the base and clear. Everything else... needs additional work.

    I do remember Thom mentioning wanting to move to the PNW someday, and I know we'd love to have him over here

  28. #88
    SLi Lurker camroncamera's Avatar
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I decided that my paint booth was not accessible enough... so I had my buddy help me install drywall zippers for much easier ingress/egress.
    Before:


    Installation:


    Product:


    Installed:


    Ridiculously posed Action Shot (to demonstrate the ease of rolling items in or out of the booth):


    Booth sealed and filtered fan pumping air inside:

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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    After the experiment with the spats, I moved forward with epoxy sealer on the rest of the parts:



    I had trouble with dry overspray build-up with the sealer:


    A lot of it ends up on the floor or in the outlet filter:


    Due to the overspray buildup, I was forced to sand my parts smooth again before base coat:




    I missed my 24-hour recoat window to shoot basecoat over my no-sand epoxy sealer, so unfortunately I was forced to sand all of my parts. And clean them. And address any burn-through spots along a few edges, etc. Here they are staged together after sanding/cleaning:

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    SLi Lurker camroncamera's Avatar
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    Re: Partial or complete repaint of Wagon and GT-B Limited bu

    I had some pretty big concerns about getting complete base coat coverage into all of the nooks and crannies of the front bumper (foglight cutouts and lower "vents"), and the grille (a deep, narrow channel on the inside edge of the main surround). I addressed these areas by shooting base coat with my little airbrush, which is perfect for detail work, before shooting everything with the big HVLP gun:





    In this way I would be SURE that I would not miss coverage on any of the difficult-to-reach interior zones of the bumper with the bulky HVLP gun:


    For the grill surround, I was able to get great coverage with the airbrush, no HVLP needed:



    Outside in the daylight I was able to confirm complete coverage into the recessed channel around the surround:


    Same story with the sidemarkers:


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