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Thread: DIY: BD/BG/BK DOHC EJ25D Power Steering re-seal 2-20-14

  1. #1
    Super Moderator Dead91silvia's Avatar
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    DIY: BD/BG/BK DOHC EJ25D Power Steering re-seal 2-20-14

    So you have a 2nd gen Legacy and it's pissing oil all over the place, but you're not really sure where from?! Have you looked at you power steering pump closely? Well, those little bastards like to piss out fluid and hide it.

    Subaru has you run AT fluid in all the late 90's PS pumps so it can be hard to find the leak because as we all know, EJ25D's like to leak anyway. Well, a lot of people dont realize that using the wrong PS fluid can kill the seals a little faster.

    The pump in this DIY is on my BD with 260,000 miles, as of last night and I did this DIY yesterday. This IS the original pump and still works great, but leaks. I'll be going through re-building/re-sealing one of these pumps with a Subaru kit.

    This is AT YOUR OWN RISK! I do NOT take responsibility if you damage you car.

    NASTY!


    Skill Level: 2-3

    If you cant change your belt's, dont try this. It's not really hard, but you do need to have a few odd tools and be mechanically inclined.

    Time to complete: 1-2 hours

    This is the kit from Subaru


    First things first, you need to take the belt off along with the guards.
    No pic... If you cant figure that out, stop and take it to someone else... :smt016


    Next you will want to remove these 2 10mm bolts for the lines.. You will see why later.




    I removed the belt pulley first. 19mm wrench and a big pry bar.



    This is what will come off.. The pulley should slide right off.


    You want to brake this bolt lose. Dont take it off yet, but get it broke lose. It will be really hard to do so if the pump of flopping around. 14mm wrench... Also take the hose clamp off right above the hard line and crack the rubber return line lose.


    Look at the nastyness!
    Remover these 3 12mm bolts at the front of the pump.




    Next is a 12mm bolt WAY down there... The one almost under the intake manifold. Remove that...


    Now that the pump is lose, pull that hard line bolt and the rubber line off and the pump is off. Propping the lines up will help the lines from leaking out and make the system easier to re-fill when you install the pump.


    Have a drip pan ready. I use cookie sheets from Costco. Work great and are super cheap!


    You will need some snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring...




    Next you need to remove the tank. There are 2 12mm bolts. One inside and one at the back.






    Tank is off... This is what you will have... I then took this to my parts washer and cleaned it up to keep dirt and other crap from getting in. Also I like working with cleaner parts.


    It's aluminum so they clean up pretty easy.


    remove the rear mounting bracket. 2 12mm bolts


    Remove the 4 rear case bolts. 12mm


    This is a little bit of a pain. You need to split the case and make sure NOT to have parts spill out! I have had it happen once the first time I did one, was a pain to figure it all out. Just take you time.


    This is why you dont want to have it "fly" apart. I took this apart to look and inspect it t make sure it wasnt burned up and everything looked good.


    You now need to drive this shaft out. Make sure you use a rubber mallet or something that will NOT hurt the shaft. You can also use a press.


    It will come out looking like this. with the bearing attached.


    Almost forgot about this guy... This is the hard line fitting. You will also need to pull this. I used a crescent wrench since it broke lose with the hard line bolt. Not sure of the size, but it's a big mofo.


    First seal to change is on the fitting. Make sure you have the right one as there are a few sizes in the kit.


    And this is most of the leak... The inner seal.


    You can use many different tools, but I just used my flat head screwdriver. It was the closest tool... haha


    I drove the new seal in with this socket. I'm sure other mechanics are up in arms about this, but meh... This is how I learned years ago. haha


    It's all driven in properly and set well. Make sure not to damage it other wise it will still leak.


    This is a seal on the inside of the pump, on the forward part of the case, the other side as the big seal we just did. Pop it off and replace it.





    Time to drive the shaft and bearing back in. I have a big piece of metal I use for doing wheels bearing that has a hole in the middle. If you dont have something likt this, thats ok. Just make sure it's level and will not mar the case of the shaft. I used a hammer with some cardboard to drive it in. Dont do it to hard because you WILL damage the shaft and thats not good. Take you time when doing this.




    Install the new snap ring...


    Make sure it's seated properly...


    It's now time for the big seals. The big metal gasket in the kit and make sure you install the big O-ring as well. You will want to hold the back part of the case in your hand to make sure the workings of the pump dont fall out.


    It might be a tight fit with all the new seals. Just take you time and wiggle and press them together by hand.

    I then installed the 4 rear 12mm bolts to suck it all together when the haves were close together. Then also install the rear bracket. Make sure to use the right one as there are 2 different ones. Also, pop the pulley on and make sure that the shaft spins like it should. It will be tight with the new seals, but not crazy tight. You might need to loosen the bolts a little and work it in and it should ease up when they set.


    Replace the O-ring at the bottom of the pump


    The bolt from inside the pump should have the little O-ring still on it. replace that one as well.


    Install inner pump tank bolt. Take you time. It will be a pain. Make sure not to cross thread it or the pump is done.


    And there we go! One shinny new re-sealed power steering pump ready to be installed!


    Dont forget to re-install the filter also...


    I installed the rubber soft line first and then the hard line.


    Then the mounting bolts. I always get the rear bolt threaded first and then thread the front bolts. Just seems to work better for me that way.


    Pulley and bolt go on the same way as they come off..


    Finally you install you belt and fill the system. It will take a few minutes to get the system filled, but she should be working nicely when all is done.

  2. #2
    t3h ub3r m3mber harrymaneuvers's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: BD/BG/BK DOHC EJ25D Power Steering re-seal 2-20-14

    You should note what the correct procedure is for bleeding any air from the system once it is refilled but otherwise AWESOME WRITE UP!
    Harry Maneuvers
    1999 Legacy Sedan 30th Anniversary Edition EJ251/EJ22 High Compression Frankenmotor http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?15427
    2004 WRX Wagon widebody swap - The Braggin Wagon http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?15237
    2006 Forester XT - Mrs. Fancy http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?15753

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Dead91silvia's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: BD/BG/BK DOHC EJ25D Power Steering re-seal 2-20-14

    Thanks! In all honesty, I bleed them improperly anyway.... haha.... but, if done this way, it will be super easy. I used 1/2 qt of ATF and it was finished. I had nothing much leak out of the lines.

    Update: Since install, I have had no leaks and n other problems. Wish I would have done this years ago!

  4. #4
    SLi Supporter WPEC's Avatar
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    great write up I will do mine as soon as new engine is installed
    1995 L-Wagon 45B : Sold
    1997 GT-Sedan 54A

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