Stretched clutch cable? [video]

[Levi B]

Hi,

I have a '96 legacy wagon 2.2 with a 5 speed.

A few months ago I pulled the engine out to do some maintenance which included a new clutch. After the motor went back in, I could never get the clutch cable adjusted correctly. I was able to get it drive-able, but it just feels sloppy/spongy. The clutch engages really low, and is fully engaged at about half of the clutch pedal's travel. The remaining upward travel is just slop. I have a spring that helps eliminate that slop, but it just feels like a band-aid to the problem - not a solution. It's easy to tell what is spring and what is clutch.

When I adjust the cable to eliminate the slop and have the pedal rest at the top of it's travel, I can not get the car into gear no matter how far down the clutch pedal is pressed.

Is this symptomatic of a stretched clutch cable? I have never knowingly experienced one before. As much as I would like to just go ahead and replace it (for preventative maintenance if nothing else), I can't enjoy such luxury being a college student.

I repeated a lot of what I said in the video, but you can visualize what I am talking about by watching the video.



PS: I'm not sure why my car sounds like a tractor in the video. In person it idles quietly haha.

[ctbrighton]

didnt watch the video but all I can tell you is I had zero problems with my clutch replacement on a 98 brighton and consequent cable adjustment at 146K, now at 190. The clutch feel lightens dramatically after replacement.

[Levi B]

I'm glad your clutch adjustment went well, unfortunately that doesn't really answer my question. The amount of force required to push the pedal is a little lighter, but that's not the issue. The adjustment is not correct, and when the pedal does have the correct adjustment I can't get the car into gear.

[ctbrighton]

Why did you replace the clutch in the first place? What were the symptoms that warranted replacing it? Was the clutch pedal good before you went and pulled the engine and replaced the clutch? Those are questions that would in my mind point to a bad clutch fork installation, those spring clips dont do the greatest job in holding it to the pivot ball.

[Dead91silvia]

Have you inspected the clutch fork? I just replaced a cracked one for a customer and that fixed their problem. They crack right on the pivot ball in the bellhousing.

[Levi B]

The clutch was of unknown age when the motor was pulled. It was working fine, I just figured I might as well replace it since I was right there anyway. The same reason I replaced my timing belt, main seals, etc.

The clutch fork was fine when I had the motor out. The visible part of the clutch fork still looks fine. Is there a way to replace it or look at it without pulling the motor? I can't really think of any except maybe pulling the rubber away from it's hole in the bell housing and shining a light in there - but I don't think that would allow for enough visibility.

[Levi B]

A little update. My friend replaced a clutch in another legacy outback using the same clutch I did, and has the same problem - he can't get it adjusted. He's far more mechanically inclined than I am. Anyway, we have decided that it is due to a weaker pressure plate with the new clutch, not the cable.

Which sucks haha.

[ctbrighton]

What brand? Exedy oem replacement i hope. If so then you got me dude.

[Levi B]

It was a Sachs clutch. I had a "hook up" on them. I suppose this is a classic case of you get what you pay for. It still works, just doesn't feel ideal. I'll definitely increase the quality of my next clutch.