My car is not an H6, but I've got an autodimming mirror in it, but the compass doesn't seem to work.Originally Posted by YamazakiSubaru
My car is not an H6, but I've got an autodimming mirror in it, but the compass doesn't seem to work.Originally Posted by YamazakiSubaru
Originally Posted by nepbug
fo reals?
no illumination, or no calibration?
Is that the one I sent?
Yeah, it's the one you sent. No illumination, so I'll look at it, might be able to repair it.Originally Posted by superu
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
You have my attention.Originally Posted by nepbug
Try Pressing and holding the power button for the auto-dimming mirror. The compass should turn on after a few seconds.
2010 SH9 Forester X Limited
1992 KS4 Sambar SDX S/C - JDM Kei Truck
2017 BN9 Legacy 2.5i Premium Eyesight - Wife's car
2013 GP7 Impreza Sport - Daughter's car
2004 BEE Outback Sedan - Legacy B4 RS30 Project - Scrapped
I went ahead and used the Subaru-fun-fund (aka paypal) and bought some all-weather mats (p/n J5010LS300) and a hood deflector (p/n E2310LS101) for the Outback. Hooray for the Baja, if it wasn't for that model going until 2006, I don't think those parts would still be available otherwise.
Now, I need to sell a few more of the parts I've got around that I won't be using to build up the fun-fund some more.
Well, it's a snowy day today so this seems like a good garage activity to do when the kids nap this afternoon.Originally Posted by Muse
00-04 2.5L Outback Muffler Autopsy
Alright, I went out and cut open the muffler.
Before, inlet on left:
After:
Inlet on left
Inlet on bottom
Nothing obviously dislodged or clogged. The inlet pipe has that small hole drilled in it (can be seen in bottom left of the last photo), maybe that is the whistler?
I might have to do some more probing around and see if anything else turns up.
I've tried that with both buttons, no dice. I think I'll be taking it apart over Christmas.Originally Posted by rkrenicki
Differential Crossmember Bushing Upgrade
Well, I was cleaning up the garage a bit and since I have a 4.11 VLSD waiting to go in as an upgrade and it had the diff crossmember piece with it, I decided to do a little upgrade to the bushings since I won't get around to installing the diff for a little while yet.
I had a little bit of 3m Windoweld left over from making some faux group-n transmission mounts, so I decided to inject it into the voids of the diff cross-member bushings.
First, I cleaned them up with a stiff bristle brush.
Popped them in the oven for a bit to dry faster and soften the rubber a little.
Taped off one side of the bushings with aluminium tape
Stuffed the Windoweld tip into the bushing void and squeezed until it oozed out of everywhere.
Lather rinse repeat.
Now I have to wait a few days to a week for it to fully set before it will be ready for install.
This pretty much finished off the last of the tube of Windoweld for me, otherwise I would consider doing the rear diff bushings too.
doing a nice job on the upgrades. looks like your wheel is bent forward. I would try giving it a couple of gentle to not so gentle tugs at the ends of each spoke to close the gaps back up. I had to do this on my momo as well. I think someone may have beat on it to try and get it off the old steering shaft as they cross threaded and tore out the actual puller bosses.
Did you notice any performance gain at all with the 3.0 muffler? I would suspect any would be very slight at best, but hey, every little bit helps.
Make sure to post pics of the key illumination install. I have been thinking about getting one out of a later car for my 98, just havent researched the needed parts yet.
Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.
Yeah, I think the steering wheel is bent. It will take more than I can pull to straighten it, but I've got a couple ideas to try.Originally Posted by meepers
No big noticeable gains from the H6 muffler, other than sweet silence, so I'm tentative to say there were any.
The illuminated key ring is coming, just need the time. If the weather cooperates I might get it done over Christmas weekend.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Could cross reference illuminated ignition ring from the DI.
The problem with that is that the 00-02 Outbacks definitely don't have a "body integrated unit" like my Impreza did, so it's a bit different.Originally Posted by superu
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Are you positive on that? I seem to remember Rkrenicki pulling one from a pre-facelift Outback on one of our junkyard runs.
What nepbug said is correct, there is no BIU on the 2000-2002s. It took me forever to find one for my car, as it had to be a 2003-2004 and it had to be an automatic.
Interestingly enough, the GD/GG BIU is identical to the 2003-2004 Legacy/Outback one, with the exception of the mounting bracket. When I had just about given up on finding one, I snagged an AT BIU from a GG figuring I would modify it to work. As I was on the way out, I found a 2004 Legacy L Automatic in the wrong section, so I grabbed both. I decided to try the GG one and it worked perfectly.
2010 SH9 Forester X Limited
1992 KS4 Sambar SDX S/C - JDM Kei Truck
2017 BN9 Legacy 2.5i Premium Eyesight - Wife's car
2013 GP7 Impreza Sport - Daughter's car
2004 BEE Outback Sedan - Legacy B4 RS30 Project - Scrapped
All-Red Tail Lights
I didn't care for the amber in the tails and didn't care to pay the price for JDM tails, so I did the next best thing and made all-red tails to get rid of the amber.
Here's the paints I used to accomplish this:
I'm really liking Duplicolor stuff lately, this time around I'm using the adhesion promoter, MetalCast Red and the wheel clear (extra clear I had from doing some wheels).
First I scuffed up the lens with some 1000-grit wet sandpaper. Then sprayed some adhesion promoter over the entire tail light.
After that was dry I masked it off to spray the red.
2-3 light coats and one medium coat of red and I end up with this:
Now I repeat for the other side (ideally I'd have done them together to ensure a match, but they came out good still).
Now I do some 1500 grit wet sanding to remove some of the orange peel and marks from the masking tape.
Then I mask it again, this time for clear over the entire tail light.
After clear I wet-sanded it with 2000-grit until ALL orange peel was gone and it was a uniformly cloudy and smooth surface over the entire lens.
Then it was time for a buff/polish and voila, done.
Before:
After:
Very good looking.
Thanks, I'm pleased with how they turned out.Originally Posted by Muse
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Aah, copy that. Different beasts.Originally Posted by nepbug
Carry on
Flippin cold!
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Well, not doing a lot with the cars lately with all the snow and cold we've had since Christmas, but I went out today and upgraded one of the single-din cubbies to an enclosed version.
Hood Deflector
The sun came out and temperature rose to 33°F so I jumped at the opportunity to get something done. Install the hood deflector since it is big, awkward and always in the way in the garage? Sounds like a plan!
The deflector is much cleaner than the rest of the car, but nothing is getting a wash for a few days as everything melts out around here.
Oil Pan Heater
I decided that I would install an oil pan heater on the Outback. No real downsides to doing this, all upside in my book.
I installed a Kat's 24100 100W 4"x5" Silicone Pad Heater. It's the right size physically and power-wise for our cars, and is less than $30.
Step 0: Warm up oil.
Before starting everything I ran the car a little to get the oil warm.
Step 1: clean off oil pan.
I used some degreaser at first and finished with some brake cleaner. The Kat's instructions say to sand down to bare metal, but I did not like that idea; I'll risk it.
Step 2: Apply heater.
I applied it on the front/bottom of the pan. It conforms well and the adhesive is stronger than I was expecting. Roll out bubbles as best you can.
I made sure to place it in a manner so that any oil drips while doing oil changes wouldn't get on the pad.
Step 3: Use high-temp silicone to seal the edges.
This will prevent grime/moisture from migrating under the pad and causing it to lift. I used Permatex 81160, which turns out to be a good color match too!
Step 4: Route cord.
I routed mine along the lower radiator hose and then up near my battery. I think I will eventually grab one of these power outlets (or similar) to make a clean and convenient place to plug in.
In other little maintenance stuff I also replaced a headlight bulb that was finnicky and the driver side tail panel bulb holders as there was some corrosion causing connection issues there.
The oil pan heater install was so simple and cheap that I'm going to slap one on my Impreza and Forester as well.
That heater pad is pretty interesting...is it worth it even though yo only get cold weather half the year
Yeah, it's not like I live in Minnesota, but I figure I will use it several times throughout the winter and at $25 it will be easy to feel like I get my money's worth.Originally Posted by LeggyxPower
That's not bad at all how do you " turn it on" is it wired in with your block heater?Originally Posted by nepbug
Living in Minnesota i would love this, but no where to plug in at my apartment :/
Great write up.
It just plugs into an extension cord coming from my garage. I pop the hood and grab it and plug it in. I will eventually move on to a solution in which I don't have to pop the hood and don't have a cord dangling out the front of the car.Originally Posted by LeggyxPower
Actually, I don't have a block heater, just an oil pan heater now. The way I look at it, the oil pan heater is nice for the engine, block heater is nice for the passengers (faster heat). Though block heaters do tend to help warm the oil some too.
I might eventually do the block heater as well, but I'll do that at the same time as a coolant flush.
Yeah, Minnesota is where these things would shine. Apartment living sucks for having cars as a hobby. I don't think I could ever adapt back to apartment living now that I have been in a house for the last ten years.Originally Posted by dynonacht
Also, I'm glad I don't have to deal with Minnesota winters, Denver is actually pretty mild during the winter. Yesterday was 50-something degrees and sunny, that's not uncommon.
Well, I plugged in the oil pan heater last night for a test run (I really should get a timer so that I don't run it all night).
It got down to the low 20's, so not crazy cold. Engine start up was nice and smooth and was quieter than usual; the heat came through the vent noticeably quicker too (though not as quick as I would expect out of a block heater). Overall, I'm quite happy with the install.