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Thread: DIY Ghetto Whiteline ALK kit

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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    DIY Ghetto Whiteline ALK kit

    Ok all, I did this mod when I was swapping out all my suspension for WRX bits. My car is an outback so it came from the factory with the lift kit. Please note this will NOT work for anyone with the subframe spacers and ONLY work for cars where the suspension members bolt directly to the unibody.

    I am sorry for lack of photos, as I was covered in black goo and did not want to touch my brand new Galaxy S5.

    Items needed for this:

    Outback transverse mounts. Blown mounts work the best.
    Whiteline bushing kit #W0562. This the service kit for KCA359.
    3M Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane, Black, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge PN# 08609

    Sharp utility knife or thin saw blade.

    Total cost for this mod was: $80.00 vs $270.00
    Blown outback bushings: Free. They came off my car.
    Whiteline Bushing kit $ 63.00 http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merch...Category_Code=
    3M Urethane $14.00 From my local auto paint store http://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Windo.../dp/B000FW61EW

    Now I recommend having a spare set of the outback mounts as this process takes 2 days before you can install due to the urethane cure time.

    Step one: Press out the stock Outback bushing from the aluminum housing. LEAVE THE STEEL SLEEVE IN! I only pressed out the actual rubber and left the steel outer ring in the housing. I did this for several reasons, first, the outback housing hole is physically larger then the replacement bushing as it was not designed for this. Also, the rivits inside (you will see what I mean when you push out the guts) helps keep the new bushing aligned.

    Now depending on how blown your mounts are, they may or may not have fluid in them. Just be aware this gets messy.

    Step two: With hot soapy water, clean the mounts extremely well. Scrape as much of the old rubber out as possible. Let dry COMPLETELY!

    Step three: Take your super clean empty mounts, now mark them left and right. This is important as if you reverse one of the mounts, you wont be happy.

    Step four: Take your bushings, notice the small notch on the fat end. This is the bottom. I took a sharpy and made a line all the way back following the casting mark as to keep the top and bottom lined up. This is your point of no return.... From the fat end of the whiteline bushings, you want to cut them 2/3rds of the way back completely through.

    Step five: Take the fat part of the bushing, press the steel sleeve through. The tapered end will be on the front. so the same side as the fatter end of the bushing. now insert this into the emptied mount. Make sure the notch in the lip points straight down. Do the same for the second bushing. make sure at this point that you have a left and a right, they should be mirror images.

    Step six: This is the messy part. Using a caulk gun, fill the back side of the housing with urethane. I made sure to fill all the way to the very edge as to not get any air pockets. At this point, take the smaller section of the bushings you cut, make note of the marking for the bottom to line it up. Press this over the steel tube and compress completely. You should get some ooze from the inside. I slowly worked the bushing back and fourth to make sure i got all the air out and completely had it covered. Complete for the second bushing.

    Step seven: This is where things will be different for you depending on what you have. I had a spare set of control arms and hardware, so I simply installed the mounts on the control arms, placed the fat washer over the back like it was on the car, and tightened the nut until the bushing made contact with the base of the control arm like so:





    The urethane can take up to 72 hours to cure depending on the temp. I let mine sit for 2 days in the Arizona sun. After that, I unbolted from the control arms, peeled the overflow urethane off, and installed them on the car. Here is the finished product on mine:






    I have so far put 200 miles on the car with this setup. Car feels great, no funny sounds, and handles like a dream. Basically, the DIY saves you $180.00 for a set of gold anodized chunks of aluminum.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

  2. #2
    t3h ub3r m3mber r3v_v3ng3's Avatar
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    Re: DIY Ghetto Whiteline ALK kit

    Great diy! The gc sti aluminum control arm is getting more and more expensive

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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    Re: DIY Ghetto Whiteline ALK kit

    Yeah they are! This really was a great upgrade. Especially since my mounts were leaking. Head over to pick and pull, grab some outback transverse mounts, Profit! lol. With my manual steering rack, it sure has direct steering response. I love it. when I get my car up on the lift to weld up my muffler, I will get photos of them installed on the car.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Re: DIY Ghetto Whiteline ALK kit

    Hmmmm, I may do this.

    Any commentary on this vs. the STi GroupN control arm rear bushing kit, which is ~$100?

    link: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/prod ... 4d5236163f
    ~Mark [SLi Admin]
    2015 Dodge Charger AWD
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    Former vehicles:
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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    I was very happy with this mod for the 500ish miles I got to drive my car before it was rear ended. This does 2 things. First, it gets rid of the liquid filled or emptied as my case was bushings. When I lowered my car removing all of the body spacers, I was able to use the housings to get the same effects as the ALK with using my outback rear mounts. If you are doing this on your forester in your sig, if you have the body spacers in, this mod is not for you.... and the Group N bushing kit will be what you want, or other such rear bushing replacement. The ALK has an offset bushing since you are in essence, lowering the rear control arm mount, adding caster, and changing the suspension geometry.

    I have ordered up the white line roll center kit as well, and when I do my drivetrain swap, I will be installing these pre alignment.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

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    "Proby"
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    Didn't know 2nd gen OB has this aluminum ALK as stock.
    03 350Z - 120K DD
    99 RS - Currently swapping JDM V9 207
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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    aluminum drop bracket with oil filled bushing. and boy is it nasty work
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

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