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Thread: Return of the Twincharge: 2/18 - Datalog comparisons!

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    Return of the Twincharge: 2/18 - Datalog comparisons!

    A long time ago, I cobbled together a twin charger system using an Eaton M62 and custom-mounted TD04. Since then, I've done a full WRX hybrid build complete with forged pistions.

    I also got a degree in Mechanical Engineering, so I'm planning on using some of those skills to make this all work...

    The goal is to increase low end power and reduce turbo lag.

    Phase 1 will set the the wastegate to control the compressor speed to match the mass flow of the M62: a balanced system.

    Phase 2 will get trickier, and will involve an Arduino-based control system to bypass the supercharger once the turbo starts to overtake it. I'll be copying the setup VW uses:




    UPDATE:
    Datalog results and video proof:



    UPDATE: The initial changeover code works: Quick video:




    I've written some pseudo-code for how the control system will work. But I'm still working out whether to use static pressure measurements before and after each air-handling device, or mass flow. The latter seems more reliable since it'll account for changes in air temperature.

    Anyway, this'll be a drawn-out project since this is my only vehicle, and daily driver to and from work.


    So, I picked up another Mercedes M62 from eBay, and started thinking figuring what needs to move and how to mount it.


    The current status of the car:


    More to come...

    - Nord
    Last edited by anothernord; 02-29-2016 at 10:59 AM.

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    Found a new spot for the power steering reservoir, chopped up and welded the bracket, and made up new lines. (The big hose normally doesn't go off in this direction)



    Hopefully I'll have some time to start fabbing up mounting brackets. My plan is to include an "outrigger" engine mount to help shore up some drivetrain slop.

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    I decided there was no good way to mount the blower, again, without moving the ABS pump. But this time, rather than just hacking a hole in the fender and shoving it in there, I fabbed up a sheet metal box to protect and hold it.

    After a few bends on my trusty harbor freight break, and a few tack welds, we have a box.



    Spot welding to the body:




    I put a quick coat of paint on there, and re-arranged the wiring to avoid anything sharp.



    Also, for reference: The way to undo the connector on the ABS pump is to pull out this key. It's a typical German plastic part that is intricate and delicate.




    Test-fitting the M62. It could fit vertically, as there's plenty of hood-clearance, but the outlet to the turbo inlet is tricky. I'll most likely design and 3D print an adapter duct with this orientation.

    Last edited by anothernord; 09-30-2015 at 01:48 PM.

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    This is interesting...

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    Quote Originally Posted by Dead91silvia
    This is interesting...
    True
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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    I'm keen to see how this goes

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    So in phase 1 your turbo is not doing anything for you?

    Or are you using the m62 do low boost and then the turbo to go to high boost?

    I guess I'm just not sure if you want to use the supercharger to get rid of the lag of a giant turbo or as an intermediate step to increase the output of a small turbo.

    What pressures are you thinking of running?

    Meth injection? E85?

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    Quote Originally Posted by nepbug
    So in phase 1 your turbo is not doing anything for you?

    Or are you using the m62 do low boost and then the turbo to go to high boost?

    I guess I'm just not sure if you want to use the supercharger to get rid of the lag of a giant turbo or as an intermediate step to increase the output of a small turbo.

    What pressures are you thinking of running?

    Meth injection? E85?

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
    The real point of the "Phase 1" is to shake out the mechanical side of things, such as belts, pullies, brackets, etc, and making it driveable so I can get to work while the controls side of things gets figured out.

    I'm not trying to make more peak power than my 20G / 91oct can produce on its own right now; just flatten out the torque curve where the turbo can't do anything. The boost won't change from what I'm running now, which is 19-20 PSI at the manifold.

    Really what this system does is causes the turbo to spool sooner in the rev range that it normally would given the load on the engine. With the supercharger on, you're basically increasing the effective displacement of the engine by introducing more air into the engine.

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    Quote Originally Posted by anothernord
    Quote Originally Posted by nepbug
    So in phase 1 your turbo is not doing anything for you?

    Or are you using the m62 do low boost and then the turbo to go to high boost?

    I guess I'm just not sure if you want to use the supercharger to get rid of the lag of a giant turbo or as an intermediate step to increase the output of a small turbo.

    What pressures are you thinking of running?

    Meth injection? E85?

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
    The real point of the "Phase 1" is to shake out the mechanical side of things, such as belts, pullies, brackets, etc, and making it driveable so I can get to work while the controls side of things gets figured out.

    I'm not trying to make more peak power than my 20G / 91oct can produce on its own right now; just flatten out the torque curve where the turbo can't do anything. The boost won't change from what I'm running now, which is 19-20 PSI at the manifold.

    Really what this system does is causes the turbo to spool sooner in the rev range that it normally would given the load on the engine. With the supercharger on, you're basically increasing the effective displacement of the engine by introducing more air into the engine.
    Ah, ok, I think I'm getting at where you want to go with this (watching the VW youtube video helped as well)

    So, have you looked at the 20G compressor maps to get an idea of when you think the crossover will happen? That transition zone seems like the trickiest part to control. You'll have to size the S/C pulley to give you pretty good boost, but once you start getting to it's limits (via ineffecient compressing or reaching that 14000 max spool) you will have to slowly dial back that wastegate opening to transition smoothly. I would think that starting the transition zone as soon as possible would be ideal.

    What sensors are you going to use as your input for the control algorithm? Are you going to add a pre-turbo/post S/C pressure sensor to help control the wastegate?

    This sounds like a nice fun challenging project, I hope this is not your daily driver. You're not to far from me being up in Ft. Fun and I think I've seen you post on AWDPirates before; maybe I'll have to come see the project some time when I'm up north.

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    I'm not quite sure when in the rev range the transition will happen, since it will be really dependent on the load, and how much the supercharger speeds up the turbo during it's transients.

    I think I've got a pretty good plan to control the crossover. I've started procurement on:

    Arduino Mega 2560 controller (on order)
    2x GM map sensors
    High-speed hobby servo (to actuate the valve)


    Basically, I'll be able to detect when the turbo starts to move more air than the supercharger (positive pressure differential), and begin opening the bypass valve. At some point after the valve is open, the SC clutch can be switched off. The pressure sensors will be placed before and after then turbo's compressor to measure the pressure differential caused by the turbo wanting to move more air.

    The Arduino can easily read the 0-5V signal from the transducers, as well as drive a servo. I might even close the control loop on the valve by tapping into the throttle position sensor on the old EJ25D throttle body I'm planning on using. This would allow some fail-safes to be put into the software to prevent, say, the SC from getting turned off if the valve isn't opening.

    Oh, and this is my daily. I've gotten very good and making sure it runs at the end of each evening

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    Re: Return of the Twin-Charge: Eaton M62 + 20G = ???

    Some updates:

    I have the blower position where I like it. And once again, it's sitting flat. This will make the plumbing much easier, as I will be able to weld up a simple box for a "plenum" on the outlet, and bolt the bypass throttle body straight to it.

    I ditched trying to adapt brackets to the green bracket of death, and make my own that I think is much studier and clean-looking:

    It's attachemnt points include the 2 M8 bolts on the back of the IM by the turbo, the single M8 originally used to mount the GBOD, and 2 M6 bolts on the cylinder head itself. I may add some more gussets here and there, and tie it into the large bar that goes across, but with the addition of second piece of angle iron to place the bolts in double-shear, it will be plenty strong.

    *excuse booger welds*








    I started on the design for a pulley adapter. The pulley will consist of this 8" Ford Lightning SC pulley ring, an adapter plate, and a Kartboy crank pulley, modified with a hole pattern.

    Thankfully, at my place of employment, we have some nice measurement tools. Here, I'm measuring the distance from the pulley face to the flange that will bolt to the adapter.

    Zeroing the dial indicator:


    And the first z measurement (I did multiple to get the tolerance).


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    I am going to be waiting to see the outcome of this. I am glad you are working on this again. I am loving your wheels!


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    Nord, you are a twisted beautiful bastard.... I always love watching the Nord Skunkworks appear. You have some awesome designs. Cant wait to see how this works out.
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
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    Quote Originally Posted by meepers View Post
    Nord, you are a twisted beautiful bastard.... I always love watching the Nord Skunkworks appear. You have some awesome designs. Cant wait to see how this works out.
    I got a good laugh from this. Thanks!

    A few more updates:



    I also ordered most of the electronics to actuate this Bosch electronic throttle body I found. Coincidentally, it's also from a Mercedes C230. It uses a simple PWM single that should be easy to get working with the Arduino.


    The new AOS (IAG Performance) will go where the washer fluid bottle was. I'll probably get one from a newer Impreza that goes in the fender.


    She's a little taken apart, but things will be coming together a little more quickly in the coming weeks.


    Oh, I finally bought another vehicle to drive while I work on the Subaru. 2001 Tacoma with 254,000 miles.
    Last edited by anothernord; 04-20-2015 at 01:30 PM.

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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    Haha, Glad I could give you a laugh! I really do love your builds as they are always pure awesomness!
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
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    SLi Lurker nepbug's Avatar
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    So what is the engine management plan?

    Are you building an entire arduino-based ECU? It kinda sounds like the arduino is just controlling boost, right?

    Megasquirt? ECU conversion? RRFPR and cross fingers?

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    Lol hey anothernord its been a while! Your still crazy as ever i see!
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    Quote Originally Posted by nepbug View Post
    So what is the engine management plan?

    Are you building an entire arduino-based ECU? It kinda sounds like the arduino is just controlling boost, right?

    Megasquirt? ECU conversion? RRFPR and cross fingers?
    My car is EJ205/EJ257 swapped, so I just use a Tactrix cable and Romraider.

    The Arduino is only controlling the supercharger clutch and it's bypass. So really it will be an independent system.

    And a small update:

    I got the Bosch throttle body (mostly) working with the Arduino. It's crude and there needs to be some refinement in the code, but it'll do the job for now.

    The Bosch throttle body has 2 variable resistors that read opposite of eachother, so it's easy to build a voltage divider circuit. A voltage divider circuit is basically the same way that your typical potentiometer circuit works, so the Arduino ends up just reading a 0-5V signal.

    The valve's motor uses a PWM signal provided by a TIP120 transistor. It basically just switches the power to the motor on and off at whatever frequency is applied to the base pin.

    In the video, I'm just using a 10k potentiometer to control the valve. On engine, I'll have a simple switch, as well as the aforementioned pressure sensors that will provide the signal to open/close the valve.

    *** Click for video ****



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    Anothernord please post up here
    https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?t=19038
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    Status report:

    The pulley adapter plate has been designed and sent out to the machine shop. I went with Proto Labs, which charged $218 for the plate with a 3 day turn around.

    Everything will get held together with these handy shoulder bolts from McMaster. I found that the lightning pulley has holes that provide about .004" diametral clearance on with these bolts, so the pulley will located nicely to the plate with minimal runout.




    The Kartboy crank pulley will still need holes drilled and tapped in it, so that's the only thing left to do with the pulley.

    I also have ordered all the piping, so that will be getting fabbed soon as well.

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    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    Well, I had to get brain surgery for a minor hemorrhage, but I'm ok and recovering.

    And here's the pulley adapter plate that came in.

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    I found a random piece of metal at work that pilots both my adapter plate and the Kartboy pulley pretty well, then used a 10mm center punch to pretty accurately locate the six holes to be drilled and tapped on the pulley. I think I got it fairly close to concentric, but one of the 6 holes didn't quite line up with the adapter plate holes, so I'll have to enlarge that hole.





    Some work got done on the piping as well:



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    A little more progress...

    Inlet flange + pipe (not pretty but it will work)


    Charge piping to the inlet:


    You can see where the last piece of the puzzle will go: A flange for the Benz throttle body, and a "Y-pipe" to spit incoming air to the bypass throttle body or supercharger inlet


    Hood clearance... err, what hood clearance? If I'm livin' right, I'll be able to just cut out some of the support and have the piping clear. Otherwise there will be an awesome charge pipe out in the breeze.

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    Super Moderator Yamazaki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anothernord View Post
    Hood clearance... err, what hood clearance? If I'm livin' right, I'll be able to just cut out some of the support and have the piping clear. Otherwise there will be an awesome charge pipe out in the breeze.
    I don't know why, but I laughed when I read this. But why have an open bit of hood? Why not fab in a little bump in the hood like in the older Eclipses?
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    Here's what I ended up doing with the hood:


    And more updates: I'm very close...

    Here's what happens when you don't lubricate and torque your turbo's fasteners enough:


    DIY turbo inlet with a piece of 3" pipe and HPS offset coupler (2.25" - 3". Requires bending of the fuel lines.


    Looking more like an engine:


    Idler/tensioner support:


    Close-up of the pulley:


    Bracket:




    Belt, all tensioned and check for clearance:


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    Woot woot!

    It's running! I shook it out over the weekend and it runs pretty well. The last thing to do is get the controller working with the bypass; right now I'm just switching the SC off and on manually.

    Video proof:





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    SLi Lurker meepers's Avatar
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    super sweet. I hate that I can BARELY fit a stock 06 Top mount under my hood let alone that GIANT beast you have. Stupid stock non turbo intake manifold!. I had to cut a space for my BOV to fit through the hood scoop. lol. Looks good. Once you have all the finishing touches on, that thing will look the business!. How is off the line pull with the SC running?
    Ruby 2.0 1999 Legacy Outback LTD: Getting Ruby 1.5's drive train.
    Ruby, 1998 Legacy Outback: officially a turbo car. Wounded, but being brought back.
    Courtney, 1997 Legacy Outback: DD and off road fun. Going to my sister for a reliable beast.
    Green Machine, 1998 Legacy L wagon: Only one I could not save... She is giving life to others.
    Sapphie, 1962 Nova: Going to be my Daughters sweet ride.

  28. #28
    SLi O.G. anothernord's Avatar
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    The low end is very nice to have. I used the SC a bit going over Trail Ridge Road (highest cont. paved road in the US) the other day and didn't have to downshift at all at 12,000'.

    I have the code working to open and close the bypass right now, so it's basically just a 2-mode system: SC mode, or turbo mode.

  29. #29
    "Proby" dynonacht's Avatar
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    pics with hood closed?

  30. #30
    Super Moderator Dead91silvia's Avatar
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    Been a while since I looked at this build but this is some amazing work! I'll admit, I'm a bit confused on a some bits, but super cool anyway!

    I do agree that it would be kinda cool to do what @Yamazaki said, do a small bump in the hood, like an old Eclipse would have.

    I'm sure this will be a bit of a noob question, but whats the MPG you are getting and what fuel are you using?

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