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Thread: 110 Amp Alternator swap wiring question

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    SLi nOOb shoguy's Avatar
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    110 Amp Alternator swap wiring question

    Installed the 110 amp alternator from an 05+ Legacy into my 98 outback. the 3 wire plug has the center pin for ignition on or "wake-up" for the alternator to start producing juice when the engine starts. The 98 ignition wire is constant power and is actually directly linked to the larger power supply wires, meaning it is constantly powered, leeping the alternator constantly "awake" from what I can see. Has anyone who has swapped these alternators in rewired the center pin to an ignition on only circuit? reading a lot of swaps listing the alternators as not lasting that long, and after seeing this, I am wondering if the alternator being constantly "alive" eventually burns out the alternator, or am I reading this wrong?
    -Rick
    1998 Outback-Lift kit, plasti dip camo tan, 03 WRX calipers, slotted rotors, header, high flow cat, custom 2 1/4 catback, vibrant muffler, fresh rebuilt .020 over EJ25D w/ 251 block, strut tower bar, etc...
    04 35th anniversary H-6 Outback-Dynomax VT Muffler, power mode mod, not much else......yet!
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    have you solved this?

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    SLi nOOb
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    not sure what the OP is talking about, all alternators have a regulator or otherwise would drain the battery.

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    SLi nOOb shoguy's Avatar
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    I did only hook up the 2 wires, and there have been zero problems with it, the alternator does shut down correctly, no battery drain and has been in a year, it is so much better than the factory alternator, there is no way I would stick with the weak original unit!
    -Rick
    1998 Outback-Lift kit, plasti dip camo tan, 03 WRX calipers, slotted rotors, header, high flow cat, custom 2 1/4 catback, vibrant muffler, fresh rebuilt .020 over EJ25D w/ 251 block, strut tower bar, etc...
    04 35th anniversary H-6 Outback-Dynomax VT Muffler, power mode mod, not much else......yet!
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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    That "shut down" wire is a signal back from the ECU. When you are running high RPMs (such as WOT), then it shuts down the alternator (and AC Compressor in most cases) to reduce parasitic loss when you want all the power.

    If you dont connect that wire, then the alternator runs no matter what RPM.. no big deal.

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    ahhhh, that is the reason for it, thank you!!
    -Rick
    1998 Outback-Lift kit, plasti dip camo tan, 03 WRX calipers, slotted rotors, header, high flow cat, custom 2 1/4 catback, vibrant muffler, fresh rebuilt .020 over EJ25D w/ 251 block, strut tower bar, etc...
    04 35th anniversary H-6 Outback-Dynomax VT Muffler, power mode mod, not much else......yet!
    85 V65 Magna
    86 'Zuki Quadsport-fun machine

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    Alright, so I'm poking around the idea of doing this for my 97obk as well. Anyone know the differences between the alternator for an 05-09 leg/obk vs a turbo 05-09 leg/obk? I'm curious to know if it would be different enough to be unusable, or if that would be a suitable second option for replacement.

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I checked 2005 and 2008.. both years have the same 110Amp alternators for Non-turbo, Turbo, and H6 cars. I would expect that the whole generation was the same.

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    An alternator is an alternator, for the most part anyway. You might have to make a bracket to fit, or modify the case of the alternator, but you can fit anything from a 30amp 80's ford fiesta, to a 200 amp ford plow package alternator. Just depends on what you're plan is. Though this is more meaning the older pre-2005 ish cars, that don't use the computer to regulate the amount of power coming from the alternator.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkrenicki View Post
    That "shut down" wire is a signal back from the ECU. When you are running high RPMs (such as WOT), then it shuts down the alternator (and AC Compressor in most cases) to reduce parasitic loss when you want all the power.

    If you dont connect that wire, then the alternator runs no matter what RPM.. no big deal.
    The alternator in my '98 GT Wagon died last night (noisy bearings, gets HOT, kills engine). Looking for an upgraded alternator. Sean with the STi swapped Baja tossed a 130 Amp alternator from a 3.6R into his Mattrax "YETI" and has has been very happy since. It's a 3-wire plug like the 110-amp unit covered in this thread. I'd like to see if I can get this into my EJ25D wagon (less than $100 shipped on ebay for used OEM) but this thread doesn't quite go into the rewire in detail. Help appreciated. Pics would be awesome but remember Photobucket Free is useless for remote photo hosting now...

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    From
    http://bbs.22b.com/forums/showthread...l=1#post396079

    Quote Originally Posted by John Stevenson
    Gerritrightupyae Daz


    3 Pin

    Looking into the alternator with the Connector Lock at the top. From left to right is Common, 12V Ign and Charge Light.

    The common is left disconnected, the 12v Ign not surprisingly goes to a 12v Switched feed, and the Charge light pin connected to one side of bulb on dash.


    2 Pin

    Looking into the alternator with the Connector Lock at the top. From left to right is 12V Ign and Charge Light. 12v is usually heavier wire and White.

    The 12v Ign and Charge light just mirror the Two pin Alternator as to where they connect in the car.

    ---Auld Git---
    Last edited by John Stevenson; 28th August 2013 at 19:33.

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