2nd gen FWD auto to AWD manual swap

[98Outbackdream]

[ I'll add pictures and more info over time when I can and as I get more time to do so ]
Looking to 5mt swap your 4eat? Looking to AWD swap your non-AWD Subaru? Tired of hearing people say just buy a manual car instead or an AWD one, what about both? Most Subaru manual transmissions are interchangeable and a good bit of early 90s to early 2000s Subarus are in the junkyards and you can get EVERYTHING you need for about $600 tops, so why should you sell your beloved, hard worked on Subaru just to have a manual transmission or AWD Subaru? Why not build your own? The core parts are easy and are all bolt in ( atleast in a BD Legacy ) Subaru was nice and put little plastic caps into pre-threaded holes where all the manual stuff would swap into. * except the master cylinder *
Mechanical: You'll need the following
5mt trans
5mt trans crossmember
5mt clutch and flywheel WITH flywheel bolts
Clutch master cylinder---
Manual pedal assembly
Matching geared Rear diff with your trans
Manual shift boot and knob
5mt Starter
Correct driveshaft for your model ( all 2nd gen Legacys have the same wheelbase they're all interchangeable )
Special tools needed:
Clutch alignment tool **
Large diameter bi-metal drill bit, can't think of exact size, I bought a whole kit for $30 at Harbor Freight
** If you're lucky like me, the flywheel from my junkyard donor car had surface rust and we were able to align the clutch perfect with it **
--- The clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly both require you to drill a total of 3 holes into your firewall. 2 studs come through from the pedal assembly that are also the mounting studs for your master cylinder, the master cylinder itself has a rather large diameter section in the center which needs to go through the firewall, these are the ONLY 3 holes I had to drill in my car.
** FOR FWD 4EAT to AWD 5MT
Extra stuff needed:
AWD gas tank ( Preferably the Evap system too so we don't have to use a Brass T as your vents ) ... I'm still working on this, I'll edit it once I get it right
Entire rear suspension carrier, rear knuckles, and lateral links ( FWD knuckles are an inch shorter than AWD where the lateral links connect )
Rear axles and axle nuts, rear diff carrier outrigger with brackets and bushings
ELECTRICAL:
In short
So you can remove your key : auto gear selector plug wires spliced together ( cut the plugs off of the gear selector and spliced them together after the plugs )
Swap speed sensor from 4eat to 5mt, extend wires between auto speed sensor plug and done.
Reverse lights: Pins 11 and 12 from the 4eat 12 pin clip in the engine bay need to be connected or spliced with the grey plug wires from the 5mt
Brake lights: switch plug or connector on the pedal assemblys
M/T identifier: Google and find out which pin is your M/T identifier, Preferably join SL-i.net and download your correct Factory service manual for your year and model ( also join the Facebook page )
You'll have to access your ECU and ground this pin, i just grounded it to the ecu's cover plate with the nut for the cover plate.
NSS ( neutral safety switches ): I haven't got around to yet. alternatively you can just run a wire from your battery's (+) through your firewall to a switch and then run a wire from the switch to the starter's (+). When your car's key is in the (On) position just flip the switch until the car starts then unflip it, or get a starter button upset emoticon I'll edit the correct info in when I get here
***FOR AWD gas tank wiring***
If you need your car right away, ignore the new to you secondary fuel sending unit and pump, and just swap your FWD pump in and plug it right in.
If you want to do it right, you have to have the two sending units to work in a series with the FWD wiring ( i haven't got around to this yet )

[meepers]

Pretty decent down and dirty parts list. For manual conversion dont forget the complete brake/clutch pedal assembly. Also note the differences in body spacers/shift linkage and pitch stop mount between the Outback models (longer).

Check your drive shaft bearings. The drive shaft carrier bearing is also OUTBACK/non outback specific. BUT>.... this can be gotten around by using your EXISTING carrier bearing. Also, if getting a junk yard drive shaft, check all the bearings for slop or rough spots. These are NOT user serviceable, and replacing them at a driveshaft shop can get quite expensive.

Auto to manual conversions are easy. I also prefer Hydro clutches to the cable clutches (both are available on the Legacy) My 99 is cable??? while my 97 is hydro.

from my own PERSONAL experience,

You are better off buying a parts car with a grenaded motor to do these swaps so you have everything you need. I converted my 98 OUTBACK from slush box to WRX 5speed.

I needed all new bolts for the transmission xmembers and to make spacers to push said xmember down to OUTBACK spec. I used thick walled tubing and cut my own spacers and had to make several trips to the hardware store for the correct sized bolts at the 11th hour.

Then, when I removed the Outback spacers when I did the STI suspension and motor swap, I was very happy to have a parts car to use all the correct factory hardware to get down to ground level.

As far as wiring goes, these are about the easiest swaps you can do. I think putting a metra plug on an aftermarket radio to plug into your factory harness is actually more time consuming to do.

Hopefully soon, I will be putting the 99 parts car trans/diff into my old mans slushbox 1990 first gen. I will be sure to take lots of pics and document this swap as well as I can.


Dont wait toooooo long to do the NSS/clutch switch. When this is not hooked up or has a poor connection, it WILL throw your 2nd gen into limp mode when pulling away from stoplights or while motoring down the freeway whenever it wants. It will limit your revs to about 3500... cause serious bucking. a simple restart will clear it for a while. I had a bad connection on my clutch switch that caused all sorts of scary moments when I first did the swap 2 years ago.


I will aslo be able to document the reverse of converting a manual to automatic for a 99MY second gen with the Phase2 motor after I get the 5 speed parts into my dads car. This car will be keeping the Phase2 2.2l motor and receiving a Phase1 slush box and needed TCU stuffs.

Being addicted to Subaru's gets to be quite time consuming. lol