Hey do you know where I can get agx struts at?Originally Posted by meepers
Hey do you know where I can get agx struts at?
Here is a great source for information on AGX struts: http://bfy.tw/44GT
2010 SH9 Forester X Limited
1992 KS4 Sambar SDX S/C - JDM Kei Truck
2017 BN9 Legacy 2.5i Premium Eyesight - Wife's car
2013 GP7 Impreza Sport - Daughter's car
2004 BEE Outback Sedan - Legacy B4 RS30 Project - Scrapped
Thanks!
Hey guys I'm fairly new to the forum and I'm looking to lower my car/have an aggressive wheel setup for this summer. Sadly i am on a budget so please keep that in mind! i have a few ideas lingering in my head but i really need y'alls input.
1) Kyb gr2s with ground control lowering springs. (problem is i don't know where to get a ground control kit for our cars)
2) Kyb gr2s with lowering springs with high spring rate
3) Bilstein struts w/ lowering springs (iso springs with a high spring rate so i can run pretty beefy wheels)
4) coilovers...trying to stay away from them if i can
At the very most I'm trying to drop the car 1 to 2 inches. my goal is to run 17x9-10's or 18x9-10's...yes i understand offset and tire size is a factor, I'm still working on it. Also i know i will probably have to roll and flare my fenders, already have the proper equipment for it. Input needed guys!:smt111
As far as I know, most lowering springs won't really give you the spring rate, they just say the amount of drop they provide, and I believe that most of them will have progressive spring rates to provide a more comfortable ride as opposed to linear springs which are more predictable in a performance situation. You can get a pretty good drop with GR2s and lowering springs though.
Why the baller wheel size? If performance is what you're after then you're headed the wrong way, scrub radius is gonna be way off in the front, and linear spring rates/coilovers are typically gonna give the best response for handling performance. That's not to say that struts + springs can't handle good, a nice strut + spring set up will most likely provide better performance than my BC racing coils. If it's a stance thing then go for it, but most stance guys are running coilovers anyways to dial height, and camber in more easily, not to mention the fact that you can custom order coilovers with various spring rates so you know exactly what you're getting (unless you get racelands). So you could order a high spring rate like 10k, 12k, 16k etc to help prevent the suspension from compressing and buckling fenders and bottoming out.
Whatever the case may be, if you're going to run a crazy wheel spec like that, don't go cheap, chances are you're going to regret one of the purchases down the road and end up having wasted that money because now you have to upgrade.
From a quick google search this car has 18x9 +15, so get ready to chop the quarter panels and fenders:
1999 Outback On BC Racing coilovers and Desmond Regamasters
"You ruined your car" - Dad
"Your car looks good!" - Mom <--- Always the supportive one.
Methinks you will rub like crazy. I would look into coilovers. They can be had for cheap, the reason all the dudes with crazy specs run them is so they can adjust their setup easily. Plus I think you will find more examples of similar setups that way. And you can flip em quicker if you change your mind.
- - - Updated - - -
Keep us posted!
i just bought a set of wheels that were 17x10 with a +15 offset. So now I'm going to save for a set of coilovers for sure. thanks for the input!
as of right now I'm trying to go for the functional stance look. at the same time i plan on doing fender flares which i already have in my basement. I'm definitely going to be getting coil overs now that i just bought 17x10's yesterday. i appreciate the help man.As far as I know, most lowering springs won't really give you the spring rate, they just say the amount of drop they provide, and I believe that most of them will have progressive spring rates to provide a more comfortable ride as opposed to linear springs which are more predictable in a performance situation. You can get a pretty good drop with GR2s and lowering springs though.
Why the baller wheel size? If performance is what you're after then you're headed the wrong way, scrub radius is gonna be way off in the front, and linear spring rates/coilovers are typically gonna give the best response for handling performance. That's not to say that struts + springs can't handle good, a nice strut + spring set up will most likely provide better performance than my BC racing coils. If it's a stance thing then go for it, but most stance guys are running coilovers anyways to dial height, and camber in more easily, not to mention the fact that you can custom order coilovers with various spring rates so you know exactly what you're getting (unless you get racelands). So you could order a high spring rate like 10k, 12k, 16k etc to help prevent the suspension from compressing and buckling fenders and bottoming out.
Whatever the case may be, if you're going to run a crazy wheel spec like that, don't go cheap, chances are you're going to regret one of the purchases down the road and end up having wasted that money because now you have to upgrade.
From a quick google search this car has 18x9 +15, so get ready to chop the quarter panels and fenders:
whoa
might chime in on this just for a bit
im running 4th gen bilsteins
with the oem spec b springs it dropped the car more than KYB-GR2 and H&R springs set up
that car was SUPER comfy too boot!
this is the ride height i ended up with
/o/ hates everything /o/ cant afford
17x10 +15?
Have fun with that... I did a ton of work to fit 17x9 +15 in the rear, and still haven't swapped my adjustable arms in yet. Fronts have even less room...
What did you have to do to fit them?
Without adding adjustable arms, all you can do is roll/pull the rear quarter panels. There is no factory camber adjustment in the rear, and the toe adjustment is minimal at best.
That makes sense. I plan on doing fender flares anyways, mostly because my rear quarter panels around the fender are pretty beaten up already.
Wow a white legacy, I haven't seen one of those yet. That is actually a pretty good drop in height. But I have my mind already set on coilovers because of the wheel set up I'm going withwhoa
might chime in on this just for a bit
im running 4th gen bilsteins
with the oem spec b springs it dropped the car more than KYB-GR2 and H&R springs set up
that car was SUPER comfy too boot!
this is the ride height i ended up with
You can throw rear camber bolts in, I have Eibachs and I was able to get about -3.5 degrees in the rear according to the alignment rack. Other than that you're going to need adjustable arms, and chances are the bolts are gonna be seized so toe adjustment is gonna be a no-go anyways. Mine were frozen solid, but my toe was zeroed out so I didn't have to mess with those.
I drive a 2nd gen wagon though, I don't know how much bigger the 3rd gen bodies are and I don't know how much the suspension was updated.
If you get coilovers then you should have enough camber adjustment in the front from camber bolts + camber plates to give you a more track oriented stance. In the rear you might be able to order rear camber plates and adjust from there, but if not, camber bolts should help do the trick. Like I said, I had about -3.5 degrees rear camber according to the alignment rack.
My setup isn't as aggressive as yaya's though.
1999 Outback On BC Racing coilovers and Desmond Regamasters
"You ruined your car" - Dad
"Your car looks good!" - Mom <--- Always the supportive one.
Rear is multi-link on the 3rd gen, just like the newer legacies. So, no traditional camber bolts. Whiteline does make an eccentric bushing that goes in the upper arm, but I don't think it will get him the adjustment he's going to need. Megan racing makes an adjustable upper arm for the rear that offers more adjustment.
Has anybody used, or have Monomax coilovers? I've seen some sites that have them up for sale but Idk if anybody on here has ever used them before. If you have, what's your take on them?
Please keep all of your questions in one place, you do not need to start a new thread anytime you come up with a new version of the same question.
I have merged everything together into this one thread.
As for your question, I know nothing about Monomax coils, but someone else here might be able to weigh in on it.
2010 SH9 Forester X Limited
1992 KS4 Sambar SDX S/C - JDM Kei Truck
2017 BN9 Legacy 2.5i Premium Eyesight - Wife's car
2013 GP7 Impreza Sport - Daughter's car
2004 BEE Outback Sedan - Legacy B4 RS30 Project - Scrapped
I have no experience with Monomax coilovers, but they are made by Godspeed Performance, who don't necessarily have the greatest reputation for making amazing parts, a few of my friends went the cheaper route and bought Godspeed control arms and ended up having to fight the dealer. One of my friends ended up getting shipped the wrong control arms 4 times before he finally asked for a refund. Another friend got parts that were damaged or seemed like they had been previously installed and removed and possibly returned.
So I haven't had personal experience with any of their parts, but I'm a bit hesitant to buy Godspeed parts just because of my friends prior experiences with those parts. Godspeed could have stepped up their build quality with these coilovers, but it could also just be low quality junk too. The price point that they're selling for is also a bit low so I wouldn't expect too much out of them.
I have BC Racing coilovers, and they are probably the lowest budget entry level coilovers that I would buy, they have a lot longer track record of satisfied customers over the years. BCs are usually right around the $900-$1000 price point but I bought mine through Import Image Racing and they were $850 shipped.
1999 Outback On BC Racing coilovers and Desmond Regamasters
"You ruined your car" - Dad
"Your car looks good!" - Mom <--- Always the supportive one.
would these fit my car?
http://www.tunersports.com/tein-flex...s4_p54557.html
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