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Thread: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

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    SLi Resident ooberdoob's Avatar
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    Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

    NUMBER: 03-52-03R
    DATE: 07/15/03

    APPLICABILITY:
    1995-2002MY Legacy;
    1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
    1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
    All models have Manual Transmission.

    SUBJECT:
    Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised)

    INTRODUCTION

    In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal
    not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal
    feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the
    following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect
    certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system
    under certain weather conditions.

    PROCEDURE

    To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that
    match your vehicle using the following procedure:

    For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

    1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

    2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this
    procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the
    clutch pipe and bracket.

    3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new
    parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N
    114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be
    replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening
    torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.
    lbs.

    4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

    5) Add brake fluid.

    6) Bleed the air from the system.

    7) Install the intake chamber.

    8) Check the following items:

    a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
    leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

    b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.



    For Turbo models

    1) Remove the intercooler.

    2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the
    clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be
    removed.

    3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in
    the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the
    connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones
    when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37
    +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs.

    4) Add brake fluid.

    5) Bleed the air from the system.

    6) Install the intercooler.

    7) Check the following items:

    a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
    leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.



    b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

    This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.




    thanks for the sticky, shane!
    rally racing... because football, baseball, and basketball only require one ball.

    2000 Impreza 2.5RS Blue Ridge Pearl (Finally!)
    1998 Legacy GT Wagon, Quicksilver, 5MT. A few goodies. (Gone to a new owner and some needed TLC.)
    1968 Ford Bronco Project

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    SLi nOOb JPaul99GT's Avatar
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    mine did this about 3 months ago... a local transmission shop replaced both hydraulic cylinders for 300 bucks.... problem went away.

    did i get jacked?
    ~JPaul
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    SLi Resident ooberdoob's Avatar
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    maybe maybe not...

    everyone i've talked to.... well it's been split 50/50 on which it is.

    so i have both. i'm gonna change the slave first, as it's the cheapest and most logically the one.
    rally racing... because football, baseball, and basketball only require one ball.

    2000 Impreza 2.5RS Blue Ridge Pearl (Finally!)
    1998 Legacy GT Wagon, Quicksilver, 5MT. A few goodies. (Gone to a new owner and some needed TLC.)
    1968 Ford Bronco Project

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    SLi nOOb subieyacht's Avatar
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    welp, guess i know what wrong now. hahaha, crap
    BEWARE OF LEGACY DRIVERS!

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    t3h ub3r m3mber Sarra's Avatar
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    I had this problem in my BE, but only when driving offroad for long periods of time (IE, going 10-20 mph in first or second gears). The clutch pedal would not return all the way, then pop back up making an annoying sound. If I kept driving in those conditions, the pedal would not return at all. If I started driving using third, fourth, or fifth gears and higher speeds, the problem would resolve itself.
    2002 WRX Wagon, Silver
    Currently saving for a Legacy project car

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Mine squeaks like it's starting to stick...good post David.
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    "Proby"
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    I got a new slave cylinder a few months ago and my clutch has never worked better. $90 bucks from the dealer. Good fix.
    04 WRX OEM+

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    This was a very easy install, though I did get a little worried about bleeding it because the pedal would drop to the floor so fast. I read in the FSM that you should hold the pedal and let it drop slowly to bleed it properly.

    A great improvement in clutch feel would be the stainless steel braided clutch hose that can be bought from www.techna-fit.com for about $20. I have a BD and used part number SUBC-110.
    JD - 2005 Legacy GT LTD Wagon 5spd
    jay-d.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarra
    I had this problem in my BE, but only when driving offroad for long periods of time (IE, going 10-20 mph in first or second gears). The clutch pedal would not return all the way, then pop back up making an annoying sound. If I kept driving in those conditions, the pedal would not return at all. If I started driving using third, fourth, or fifth gears and higher speeds, the problem would resolve itself.
    I have experienced EXACTLY the same thing... except speed wasnt the same... I was using rimarily 2nd and 3rd gear, driving hard, dirt roads... I thought temp. might be to blame.... goes away after some long, higher spped runs, as mentioned.
    '06 Outback 2.5i wagon, stock.

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    -KYB Struts...............-KB Short-throw
    -Sonrkus-ectomy.......-PIAA 580 series lights
    - WRX Seats
    It's all fun & games until
    somebody loses an eye!

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    Had my clutch medal staying on the floor after shifting in high rpms (4500+) or long drives. Replaced the clutch slave with OEM and line with Techna fit Braided Stainless and now my pedal is very "light". Granted I upgraded to a Stage 1 Clutch but my pedal depresses too easy . Oh well. Was told I should do my Master next so when time allows I'll do that next.
    1998 Legacy Outback Limited 5mt-
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Necro bump!

    I had this problem on a long 7-hour drive to NY and it got progressively worse over the time I was there, and when I returned home. I replaced the master cyl, slave cyl, hose, and bled it with no difference. my trans has also developed the "Subaru squeal" so I need to do a snout kit and clutch job soon, although I don't think that would fix this problem.
    Subarus never die, they live on to breath life into other subeis.
    RIP 96 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.2L 5MT | RIP 97 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | RIP 98 Legacy GT - 2.5L 4EAT
    98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 99 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | 97 Legacy GT Outback - 2.5L 5MT

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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    We have replaced the slave first, then the master. Had these bled professionally. Still have same problem with clutch pedal. :smt026

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    "FNG" 98OBW's Avatar
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Same here, I wish I knew about the braided line before I got the OEM one.
    Subarus never die, they live on to breath life into other subeis.
    RIP 96 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.2L 5MT | RIP 97 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | RIP 98 Legacy GT - 2.5L 4EAT
    98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 99 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | 97 Legacy GT Outback - 2.5L 5MT

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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    I have a 1999 Legacy Outback wagon, just spent $2000 in parts, r&r: head gaskets, timing belt kit, plugs, wires, clutch, flywheel, a few other parts. The clutch will not gravity bleed. I'm not a fan of just throwing parts at things, so tested the system, found slave cylinder was bad, replaced, still will not gravity bleed. Called a Subaru dealership...long story short, waste of time. Replaced slave cylinder hose (from firewall to slave) and still nothing, attempt to bleed it and nothing comes out, pedal hits the floor, have to manually pull it back up. I've turned my share of wrenches, and my friend who helped me on this job is a master technician, and he's never seen anything like this either. One thing that does not make any sense to me is why the bleeder is below where the fluid comes into the slave cylinder, I mean how do you gravity bleed a clutch when the placement is backwards from what works? Same design from 1995-2005, seriously, any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and every thing is clear, will allow fluid through, totally stumped here.

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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Just unbolt it and hold it higher. It's not too hard.

    Most people recommend bench bleeding the clutch systems, its much easier.
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    "FNG" 98OBW's Avatar
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    My problem with this issue went away after replacing the clutch and installing the snout kit.
    Subarus never die, they live on to breath life into other subeis.
    RIP 96 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.2L 5MT | RIP 97 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | RIP 98 Legacy GT - 2.5L 4EAT
    98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 99 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 5MT | 98 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | 97 Legacy GT Outback - 2.5L 5MT

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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Tried bench bleeding the slave cylinder, that didn't help either, We tried to bleed the clutch for hours, and not much would come out of the bleeder. The master cyl. only went down about half an inch, while my friend was operating the bleeder, I was operating the clutch pedal by hand. The really strange part is that while attempting to bleed it (all the pumping) nothing would change much at all. There would be about an inch of resistance just off of the floor, then after bleeding that little bit and leaving the bleeder closed the pedal would start to make it past the detint in the middle of the pedal range after about five manual pumps by hand. All of the other work done to the car is awesome, no leaks, no engine lights nothing, just the stupid clutch issue. I bought the most expensive aftermarket slave cyl. now I'm wondering if the new one from Subaru could actually be any different, after looking at them both they sure appear to be identical.

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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Maybe next time I will settle for a wussy automatic. At least when those act up its usually just a sensor.

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    "FNG" 98OBW's Avatar
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Automatics suck. And they're not a 50/50 AWD bias
    Subarus never die, they live on to breath life into other subeis.
    RIP 96 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.2L 5MT | RIP 97 Legacy Outback Wagon - 2.5L 4EAT | RIP 98 Legacy GT - 2.5L 4EAT
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    t3h ch33se Wiscon_Mark's Avatar
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Quote Originally Posted by subyclutchfromhell
    Maybe next time I will settle for a wussy automatic. At least when those act up its usually just a sensor.
    Not true. They frequently suffer from Torque bind and fried DutyC Solenoids. Both expensive problems to fix if not caught early (as with all auto transmission issues).

    Quote Originally Posted by 98OBW
    Automatics suck. And they're not a 50/50 AWD bias
    Not entirely true. Autos are capable of 50/50 but don't default to it unless locked in D1 or D2. They can swing the power to the back wheels when needed.

    I will agree with you about not liking a reactive AWD system. Give me power evenly where its needed all the time so it's more predictable.
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    Re: Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

    Couldn't agree with you more as far as manual vs. automatic. It would be awesome if Subaru would design a new slave cylinder where the bleeder was higher than the fluid intake, then it might actually bleed. Now my speedometer quit working, having a real blast with my first Subaru... getting pretty frustrated with it, just seems to need one thing after another. Maybe Ken Block has an old Suby sitting around up for grabs.

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