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Thread: 2013 Legacy 2.5i Prem Automatic w/60k miles.

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    SLi nOOb
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    2013 Legacy 2.5i Prem Automatic w/60k miles.

    Sorry if this been ask but I'm new to the AWD/CVT system. I'm coming from a FWD and RWD vehicles.

    I have some question.
    1. Should I do a transmission flush or change?
    2. Is there a trans filter (I did not check underneath to see if it's a pan or housing)?
    3. Front/Rear Differential and torque converter gear oil need to be change at 60k?
    4. Is there anything else that need to done while I'm at it?

    I just got a call from Subaru they only service front ($86) and rear ($96) differential. They do not service the transmission since it's CVT. Don't understand if they can service the differential why not do a trans flush or change?

    Thank You.
    Last edited by amusa; 03-09-2016 at 08:09 AM.
    1999 Acura Integra GS (Show/Track)
    2004 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 (Daily Driven)
    2013 Legacy 2.5i Premium (Daily Driven)

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    According to the manual, the CVT is "Maintenance Free", and has no fluid change interval. It is marked to "Inspect" every 30,000 miles on the maintenance schedule, but there is no dipstick. I am not really sure how you are supposed to inspect it. I will have to look it up in the service manual.

    The Differentials are also "inspect only" on the schedule, but that is every 15k.

    I suppose, here is the better question. Are you having issues with the transmission?

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    Wondering if it's like the Mercedes. There is no transmission dipstick provided with the vehicles. The dealership service department has them. I know you can buy them online. I will check into that over the weekend. I'm going to see my good friend that own a mechanic shop tomorrow night. I'm going to bring that up to him and see what he says.

    As for the front and rear diff there is a filler plug not the drain plug that you take off to see if the fluid (gear oil) is just below the hole and you do this only on level ground. For me I will change out both diff myself since I have access to a (2) post lift.

    I notice when I tried to make a pass. The RPM will shoot up and feels like the power is falling behind trying to catch up. I'm not sure if it's the design of the CVT transmission. My other (2) automatics (non CVT) vehicles the power is there from the get go.
    1999 Acura Integra GS (Show/Track)
    2004 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 (Daily Driven)
    2013 Legacy 2.5i Premium (Daily Driven)

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    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    That sounds like the CVT is doing what it is supposed to. It gears down to get the torque that it needs to work with. The 2.5 litre engine does not have a whole lot of torque to work with and comes on relatively late.

    You may be a little spoiled with the CLK with 125hp more, and almost 150ft-lbs more of torque that peaks at 2700rpm instead of 4100rpm.

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    Super Moderator Dead91silvia's Avatar
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    CVT's are actually pretty reliable in the Subaru's. If it was something American, I would say get rid of it. haha... All joking aside, if it's been driven like a normal human, it should be fine.

    Also, never do a "flush". Unless it's at the dealer and recommended by the manufacturer. It's more so with engines but trans as well. Most of the time it's just a drain and fill. Even diffs dont need that much attention, but inspecting to make sure they are not leaking is a good thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dead91silvia View Post
    CVT's are actually pretty reliable in the Subaru's. If it was something American, I would say get rid of it. haha... All joking aside, if it's been driven like a normal human, it should be fine.

    Also, never do a "flush". Unless it's at the dealer and recommended by the manufacturer. It's more so with engines but trans as well. Most of the time it's just a drain and fill. Even diffs dont need that much attention, but inspecting to make sure they are not leaking is a good thing.
    Generally when we do a CVT service at the dealer it's just a drain and fill of the pan. The severe service schedule does spec a replacement interval but I don't recall exactly what it's at. I wouldn't trust any fluids to be "lifetime" (what's their idea of lifetime? lifetime of the warranty or lifetime of the body until it rusts and falls away?). It's not a bad idea to give it a drain and fill. I've heard of people doing it themselves and I believe there are some DIY threads out there. At the dealership we hook it up to the computer which reads fluid level and temperature to make sure it isn't over or under filled. Expect to pay $13-$20/quart for that stuff, though!

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