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Thread: rkrenicki's 1992 Subaru Sambar SDX - 2017-07-25 - Back on the Road!

  1. #91
    t3h ub3r m3mber dodik's Avatar
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    ouch, hopefully it still has some life left in it. im guessing you are going to overhaul it?
    09 Subaru Tribeca -- slow and ....um fat, definitely fat.

  2. #92
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Depending on the extent of the damage, yes.

  3. #93
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    Got it on a stand, pulled the crankshaft caps.. and found that cylinder 2 rod bearing was toast.




    Tomorrow, I will pull the crankshaft and get it over to a machine shop. Once it is machined, I will order the proper bearings and a replacement rod and cap.

  4. #94
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    didn't it have low oil light on? maybe there was more to it then swapping sensor?
    09 Subaru Tribeca -- slow and ....um fat, definitely fat.

  5. #95
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    How many miles/km's did it have when it let go? I was about to pull the trigger on one, but got worried that near 100,000km was too many miles for $3750. I hear G&R Imports has good prices on parts and replacement engines.
    ver2StiRA BD legacy
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  6. #96
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    It has somewhere around 52,000 or 53,000kms on it.. (I pushed the chassis outside, and I do not feel like going out to look exactly). The issue here was that it was not well maintained.. the last oil change before I received it was about 4 years prior.. even though it had only driven about 1000kms. I also was traveling about 70-75mph with the engine spinning at 6000rpm.

    I have been in communication with G&R and Twin Rivers here in the states, as well as Yokohama Motors and JapanParts.com to source various parts. The only quote I received back was for a replacement crankshaft with bearings at $850 (!!!) plus a $300 core (and core is graded as well) from Twin Rivers. I guess $150-200 for machining and $170 for bearing kits is a much more palatable option.

    Today the crank is out. I have it wrapped up in bubblewrap to prevent more damage, and I will bring it to the machine shop tomorrow.


    I took the head off as well today. Cylinder walls look good, no gouges or visible cracks. The head gasket was also fully intact.


    The head looks okay as well. No valve damage or anything of that sort. I will have it cleaned and pressure tested. I will also have the block cleaned. I measured the head, it is 28cm from one end to the other.. just over 11 inches!

  7. #97
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    After looking at the pieces a little more, it appears that the #2 piston made contact with the head. I am not sure if it just broke the seal of the headgasket or if it cracked the head, but that does explain why the cooling system pressurized and pushed out a bunch of coolant. As such, I no longer trust the head or the piston. I bought today a new head, piston, and a brandy new crankshaft.. as I found one for not too much more than I can have my old one machined for.

    This engine rebuild is beginning to get quite expensive.. but I should not have any more issues for a very long time.

  8. #98
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Well, this has turned into a ground up engine rebuild. Not all of my parts have arrived, but the last few should be here by the end of the week.

    Rebuilt and ported Head, new piston (just #2), new rod (just #2), new rings, new crankshaft, new oil pump, all new gaskets and seals, new thermostat (while it was all apart), new pilot bearing (to go with the clutch I did last month).

    Once the last few packages show up, the pictures will start flowing again. Speaking of pictures.. I just corrected all of my MR pictures from the Photobucket debacle. I need to come up with a good solution for new pictures going forward.

  9. #99
    SLi nOOb Somac's Avatar
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    Oof, that's an unfortunate to-do list of items, especially when it was out of the blue.

    Was it difficult actually finding the pistons and rods for this motor? I'm assuming since you're only replacing one that you got an OEM one. I'm surprised you're still able to!

  10. #100
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Somac View Post
    Was it difficult actually finding the pistons and rods for this motor? I'm assuming since you're only replacing one that you got an OEM one. I'm surprised you're still able to!
    This engine was in continuous production from 1990 to 2012, so parts are fairly straightforward to find. Many parts never changed for the entire run, but quite a few have been updated along the way. The non-supercharged version was used in the Vivio in Europe as well and many parts were for both the NA and SC versions. Not a single part was "difficult" to track down, it really just came down to what vendor could get each part for the lowest cost. I ended up ordering everything from JapanParts.com, Yokohama Motors, and from PartSouq.com. Some really common parts like o-rings and some fasteners I ordered from my local Subaru dealer, Secor Subaru.

    After everything is said and done, not counting tools, cleaners, sealants, and the towing charges... This engine has cost me more to repair than the total cost of the truck by the time it got to my driveway, but given the excellent original price.. It will still be less than the cost to buy one already here.

    Also, it will be an essentially new engine.. I should have no more issues for a long while as far as the engine is concerned.

  11. #101
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Progress!

    While I was awaiting the arrival of parts, I decided to change the oil in the Supercharger. I may mess around with the pully size later on, but I need to focus on just getting the engine working at the moment.


    I also decided to clean up the pistons with some Berryman Chemdip cleaner. I let them each soak for about 90 minutes, and then scrubbed them down. This is a before/after.


    Here are all three cleaned pistons, as well as the new piston that showed up today. There are also brand new rings installed.


    I rehoned the cylinders with a 320grit Flexible Ball Hone. They were not bad to start, but I figure to deglaze them and allow the new rings to properly seat.


    All 4 pistons reinstalled.


    Brand new crankshaft.


    Crank installed top view.


    Crank installed bottom view with all cleaned up bearing caps and new bearings.


    New OEM head gasket.


    Flowtested rebuilt head reattached.


    Unfortunately, I am stalled at this point as my new oil pump has not yet arrived. It might be here tomorrow.. monday at the latest. Once that arrives, I can fully reassemble the engine.

    Did I need to replace as much as I did? No, but since it is fully disassembled, I might as well replace all of these to gain back some power and prevent potential issues.

  12. #102
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The oil pump finally showed up today, so assembly resumed.. until I realized that the oil filter stud is not included with the new pump, and I cannot seem to remove it from the old one. So.. yet another part ordered from Japan, and it will not be here until after I am back from vacation next week. :/

    Water pump, Oil pump, Timing belt, Injector assembly, exhaust manifold, and engine wiring harness installed.


    Engine "Strengthening Plate" and oil pickup installed.


    Oil Sump installed.


    Timing Cover installed.


    All valve lash set.. and the engine spins nicely and in time.

  13. #103
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The engine is reassembled and remounted! I have other pictures, but I need to sort them out later.. In the meantime, here is a video of the second start!


  14. #104
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    The truck is officially back on the road, took it for a drive of about 50kms today to seat the rings and test for leaks. I have a couple of pictures after the valve lash adjustment, that I will pick a couple and post tomorrow.

  15. #105
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    I have been working on completing the engine break in for the last few weeks, so I have neglected to post up the rest of the pictures.

    The engine has been running very very well since it was rebuilt. I still need to re-adjust the valve lashing now that it has been driven 500kms or so as the valve train is being a little chattery. I also need to pick up a Tee for the crankcase breathers, which I will explain a little later on. Today I changed the distributer rotor and cap as they just showed up this morning, as well as the drivers mirror which was very loose and moving around on me while driving.

    But first.. Here are the last few rebuild pictures:

    Coming back from vacation, these were waiting for me: The oil filter stud is obvious, but the valve cover was an OEM option. The red version was no more expensive than a non-colored cover, and it was cheaper than having my existing cover powdercoated.
    2017-07-22 18.02.53.jpg

    I also picked up a magnetic oil drain plug. It uses a M16 thread just like the newer FA and FB series engines. The hex is WAY bigger than the original (19mm vs 14mm), but it works quite well.
    2017-07-23 09.02.41.jpg

    Here is the engine reassembled, clutch installed, ready for going back into the chassis.
    2017-07-24 19.05.20.jpg

    First break-in oil change at 50kms. Lots of stuff on the magnetic plug, and the oil was dark grey with a pearlescent look and a couple of white metal flakes.
    2017-07-26 17.10.25.jpg
    2017-07-26 17.24.59.jpg

  16. #106
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Total list of replaced engine parts:

    #2 Piston
    #2 Rod
    Crankshaft
    All rings
    Main Bearings
    Rod Bearings
    All Gaskets and Orings
    Oil Pump assembly
    Head
    Valve Cover (not required)
    Distributor Cap/Rotor
    Water pump (previous work)
    All belts, including timing (previous work)
    Spark Plugs
    Supercharger Silicone Joiners (previous work)
    Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throw out bearing, Pilot bearing (previous work except for pilot bearing)

    I changed the oil at 50km, 150km, and 400kms. The 1st change was photoed in the last post. 150km was still a little dark, but much fewer metal bits in suspension. 400km was nearly perfect oil, just slightly darker than when it went in. I am going to do another change at 650kms, and do a compression test at that point.

  17. #107
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Compression test results: #1 - 108psi, #2 - 112psi, #3 - 113psi, #4 - 115psi

    I also re-adjusted the valve tappet clearance, and the engine is significantly quieter now. It was a little chattery before, but this is much better.

    That said, I have also developed another exhaust leak somewhere.. I have a feeling I am going to have to have some sort of custom exhaust system fabbed up.

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