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Thread: 01 Legacy Wagon Stereo Install (BH)

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    Question 01 Legacy Wagon Stereo Install (BH)

    Well, hello everyone. This is my first thread here on sl-i, but I would greatly appreciate any input.

    Since I am only 17, and my little 60k mile BH isn't quite mine yet, an STi engine/manual swap is out of the question, so I am stuck with a slow and heavy wagon with a slushbox, but I need something to sink my time and money into, so why not put in a stereo? A proper stereo system, as slapping in a big flashy head unit doesn't count as a real stereo install. Before I get into too much detail, here are the important parts: replacing all factory speakers, adding amplifiers in "trunk" with an 8 inch sub in a small sealed box.

    I've looked for months to gather all of the resources I can find, but there are some things that just aren't well documented.

    Here is where I need some input.
    Firstly, I am considering putting in some sound deadening material under all of my carpet. Does anyone know how time consuming it is to remove all of the carpet in this car without tearing it out?

    Next, does anyone have any clue how to fit aftermarket 6.5" speakers into the doors, and what sort of issues I will run into? This page says that there are splash guards/shrouds that the factory speakers fit into. Supposedly they can be modified to fit a normal speaker, but then I've got to worry about fitting a foam baffle in to protect the speaker from water. Is this actually an issue? I have found speaker adapters on eBay, of all places, but the only ones listed as fitting in the front don't have a large enough cutout for the speakers I have, and they cost 30 bucks. If anyone has put speakers into their Legacy of the same generation, please share what you needed to do to make them fit.

    Here I go with the "I've searched for this before", but it is true. I have seen members on this forum install a complete stereo in their Legacies, but it is usually just mentioned in their mod list without going into much detail about how they installed everything. Thanks in advance for any input.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrSwaggerWagon View Post
    Here I go with the "I've searched for this before", but it is true. I have seen members on this forum install a complete stereo in their Legacies, but it is usually just mentioned in their mod list without going into much detail about how they installed everything. Thanks in advance for any input.
    That is largely because it is dead simple. I am fairly sure there is a DIY around here somewhere, but replacing the stereo and speakers are simple enough that people do not really need to write it up. The only piece of advise you will need is this: The front speakers need to be fairly shallow to clear the window. The rear, you can go nuts.

    My cars have two different speakers for the front. The RS30 has Infinity 6032si using the adapter ring that came with the speakers, and the Blitzen has Kenwood KFC-1665S speakers that mount straight up without adapters. Both sets are sufficiently shallow.

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    For the carpet, the seats, center console and door sills will have to come out. After that, it's easy and shouldn't have to damage anything. I didn't use any special tools. Be careful not to strip the seat bolts when reinstalling. Since your seats will be out, maybe replace them with ones from a WRX or STi.
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    Thanks for that info, but the issue is that my speakers have no adapter plates with them, at least the front ones. I've got Skar FSX65's, and they have a larger cutout diameter than that adapter I found. Also, will I need to shield them from water or is that just a non-issue?

    If push comes to shove, I can head over to my dad's work and program custom adapter/spacers into the laser. Stainless steel always makes things cooler.
    Last edited by MrSwaggerWagon; 01-19-2017 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Adding info.

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    Yeah, it would be nice to pop in some nice seats, but I'm 17 working maybe 5-10 hours a week at a touch over minimum wage, while saving for college next year. There is always so much month left at the end of the money, isn't there?

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    Quick update: I've gotten out the seats, console, and lower interior trim panels. I was just starting to pop the clips to remove the carpet when the call for dinner came. Took 2.5 hours to get this far, having only one issue with my power driver's seat. After a half hour of trying to pinch the tabs on the plastic cable anchor on the bottom of the seat, I ended up just grabbing some wire cutters and snipping it free of the seat. Is it less than ideal? Yes. Was it easy? Also, yes.

    I'm not sure if anyone else would benefit from it, but after I take care of some calculus homework and finish removing the carpet, I will put up some details about how I did it, maybe some pictures. I'm excited to have an entire week of driving with some weight reduction.
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    It only gets harder from what I hear. Then again, I'm looking at mechanical engineering, so I would expect it would. I'm hoping to knock out all of my wiring this weekend. I may or may not sound deaden. I know that it makes a massive difference for sound quality and road noise, but I don't have the cash on hand at the moment. However, pulling out the carpet really wasn't that hard.

    After I put the carpet back in and I find some time, I will try to write up some more specific instructions, as the service manual missed a few things that had me scratching my head for longer than I would like to admit.

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    Okay, just got back from my dad's house and I managed to run pretty much all of the wires and install the head unit. Turns out I will need adapters for the front and back door speakers, so I ordered some off Amazon. I've been taking pictures of the progress. I will post them later.

    Biggest pain was running speaker wire through the front door jambs, which is always the biggest pain of a stereo, but it absolutely sucked on this one. It sucked so much that I need to reuse the stock wires for the tweeters I'm putting in. Once I complete the install, probably next weekend, I will update you on the final result, including some tuning with an RTA and, at a later date, gain-setting with an oscilloscope. 20170129_141728.jpg

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    Progress update: In between several-hour stints of writing this physics paper, I've managed to completely reinstall the interior (except for the door skins) in about 3 hours. I only have two fasteners left in my part trays, but everything is secure, so I couldn't care less about that. God, it was 20 degrees and snowing yesterday morning, 60 degrees and sunny today, and 40 degrees with rain tomorrow. Absolutely no time to work on the car, so I'm stuck without any music for a third week. I'm way too close to temporarily putting my garage stereo in my trunk to hold me over until I mount the amps and hook up the speakers. Speaking of mounting amps, I'm putting my 6 channel on the back of the seat with self-piercing sheet-metal screws (not self drilling, since the seat back is too thin of a gauge), but I'm not sure where the small amp for the back doors will end up. I was thinking of mounting it on the trunk floor next to the big amp, but then I can't put my all-weather mat down. Any suggestions?

    PS: I managed to squeeze some 20 gauge wire through into the front doors for my tweeters. I REALLY should have done it at the same time as the wire for the mids, but I didn't have the wire on hand. Not going to lie, it took two hours to get it through to the passenger door and another three hours to get a run through to the driver's door. I started by undoing the 10mm bolt holding the little door stopper to the body so the door would open all the way. Then I popped the wire boot out of the body and door. Noticed on the door side that there is a lip, then a groove for the metal of the door to sit in, then a chamfer so it will pop into the door. However, the boot seems to extend deeper into the door, so I sliced a 3/4 inch slit into the part that extends into the door. I pushed a really stiff 10 gauge solid core wire through the inside of the door and grabbed it from between the door and body, outside of the rubber boot. Pulled about 2 feet through the door, then pushed down through the slit I made, down to where I could grab it with pliers and pull it through. Then I tied and taped the 20 gauge to it and pulled back up through the boot. SUCCESS, pulled about two feet into the door, then realized that after an entire HOUR of work, I hadn't run the tweeter wire through the body of the car yet, so I had to untangle 60 FEET of wire, run it all through the body, then all of it back to the trunk. 1 hour job just turned into a 2 hour job.

    The driver's side had more wires in it already, so I ended up using a length of TIG rod down through the boot. That also should have been about 90 minutes, but it took 90 minutes to figure out an alternative to my thick wire that wouldn't fit. Realistically, if I'd run the tweeter wire at the same time as the main wire, it would have been like 1 hour for the front doors, plus 30 minutes for the back doors.

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    COMPLETE! Well, the back door trim still isn't in, since the adapters stick out so far that the speaker grill hits before the pins get within 2 inches of the door, but GOOD ENOUGH! Planet Audio P706 running in 3 way mode, Infinity REF-075 tweeters on channels 1-2, Skar FSX-65 mids in the front doors on channels 3-4, Rockford Fosgate Punch P1S2-8 8" sub in a sealed box bridged across channels 5-6. Got a small Fosgate Punch 60.2 running the RF 6.5" coaxials in the back doors. To avoid a picture dump, here is a link to an album.
    "If it ain't broke, keep fixing it until it is." - AvE
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