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Thread: EJ22D powered '96 Legacy LSi.

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    EJ22D powered '96 Legacy LSi.

    As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car.

    Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year:

    Engine:
    EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997).
    EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock).
    EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock).
    EJ253 water pump (2006).
    EJ222 block and head gaskets.
    EJ205 oil pump (detailed).
    EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor.
    EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller.
    EJ257 oil pan.
    EJ257 Moroso oil pickup.
    Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE).
    Tomei timing belt guide.
    VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs).
    Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts.
    All new seals and bolts.
    Self milled heads via sanding.
    Lightly ground intake ports.
    Refreshened and seated valves.
    4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod).
    Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules).
    1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets.
    EGR disable.

    Ignition:
    Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4.

    Body:
    1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille.

    Lights:
    JDM RS front headlights with HID system.
    Sequential front turn signal lighting.
    Rear USDM w/VNT red paint.

    Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C).

    Electronics:
    WRX radio.
    Raizin voltage stabilizer.
    New Sony xPlod rear speakers.

    Interior:
    1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood).

    Steering:
    2004 STi steering rack.
    L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint.
    Rallitek steering rack poly bushings.

    How the car looks today.






  2. #2
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    Not all was well at first. With a dying 25D and long work hours, I had little time to come up with a plan, but it worked out well. Still, we shall start from the beginning with the 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi that I had purchased last year for $500.






    The first mod, a 420A ignition coil, was done. spiced things up some from the diamond coil.


    Also added a radio when there was none.


    In my quest to improve the car, I aimed at the grille, primarily out of boredom.







    The completion of the Loyale style grille.



    - - - Updated - - -

    Sitting sometime during the early winter.





    Addition of the Big 3.


    The snow is gone and she finally got plates.







    ECU hunting and testing.




    Ran a stock L 2.2 ECU for a bit, as it proved to be the best for running and conserving 87 octane.

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    Enjoying her a little more while I could, but around this time, the original 25D began to die.






    A 97 Legacy Outback Limited is approached for it's ECU (7X), which later proves to be an awesome instrument.



    Also approached a 420A Eclipse and found a goodie...



    What I left the boneyard with that day...


    Shots of a random Legacy GT and my LSi.





    She passed emissions.


    Got some LED's for the license plate lights.


    Final snowstorm that the 25D propelled me through before it died.


  4. #4
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    A trip to the boneyard yields this nice EJ222 block for about $140.





    Proceeded to clean up a bit.





    EJ222 crank gear and stuck sensor.



    Water pump removed.


    Broken crank gear sensor.


    More cleaning.





    Ej222 oil pump removal.




    MSD 8239 coil on and working fine.


    Another thing that must be discussed is that the 85 ECU I had earlier was from a '99 Outback. It did not work with me airbag and evap system, and so while it will plug right in and run, it will always throw a check engine light. The 9P ECU is what came in the car and is the prime reason why the manufacturer called for 91+ octane. It sucked at adapting for sure, which is why it was replaced. The 7X was the best ECU as it adapted well and communicated with everything. I am still running it now.

  5. #5
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    If anyone wanted to know, some Mini Cooper Supercharged ignition coils will also work as viable performance upgrades, as they are 36kv and similar to the MSD 8239.



    Radio and trim upgrade.



    A good friend's Legacy.




    More straightening up the 222 block.


    Came home with a goodie (black Outback hood).



    222 block cleaned up some more with straight pins removed.



    More goodies.




    Stock baffle installed.


    Moroso oil pickup installed.


    Magnetic oil drain plug.


    "Str8" pinning for increased head gasket and head security when torqued.


  6. #6
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    Detailed EJ205 oil pump with new filter installed and new EJ257 tensioner bracket.


    Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers, 2006 Legacy thermostat, and 1lbs VMS lightweight crank pulley.


    Showcase of EJ20D intake port size.


    EJ20D head internal layout is shim over, if anyone was wondering.


    Str8 pin meets 222 head gasket.


    EJ20 turbo water pump vs N/A 2006 Legacy water pump.


    Passenger side head and STi roller kit installed and torqued down.


    Driver side of the block awaiting head.


    Head installed and belt mock.

  7. #7
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    New bolts and 257 coolant crosspipe installed.


    22D almost ready.


    Longitudinal.




    STi oil pan installation.








    Edging so closer...

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    Received a present goodie.


    The rebuilt EJ25D has finally died for good.


    The trick that made the dying 25D last as long as it did.


    It is time for removal.




    1996 EJ25D and 1997 EJ20D intake ports are about equal size.


    All accessories removed from 25D.


    Gotta grind down intake manifold edges on the big plenum 25D manifold to fit the 257 coolant crosspipe.




    Coolant crosspipe sensor will work. 2 out of 3 wires for the Phase 2 sensor match the Phase 1 wiring. Installation pretty much explains itself after you get the Phase 2 connector with extended wiring.

  9. #9
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    22D is almost ready.






    Secondary power steering bracket doesn't line up with the bolt hole with the 257 crosspipe, so I removed it. everything now fits perfectly.

  10. #10
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    Skip a little past the installation as I lost those pics permanently. The EJ22D is installed and pulling hard for an EJ22. At this point, I had not discovered the power level and so was just enjoying the engine for what it is. The Legacy itself had gone through a few changes.










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    My exhaust setup:
    UEL's w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler.




    My buddy's 22D-T powered Legacy wagon.










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    On that same day.






    22D alive and well.




    Sometime after.






    10k milestone of ownership, 8k miles after the 22D installation.


    Closer to the present.




    The name on the plaque is my instagram name.



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    Upgraded to WRX Momo wheel and Outback SUS Safari interior.



    The day of the ECS Performance dyno testing 10/18/2017.






    On the rollers...






    Dyno graphs.




    Youtube videos.




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    Comparison of the MSD 8239 to the Accel super SRT-4 coil.



    Accel coil installed.


    How the car looks today.






  15. #15
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    Update:

    The Accel coil continues to do well. For the money, it seems to be an even better bargain than the MSD 8239, but there is a catch and I will find it.

    Overall feel of the car is balanced and I am certain that I would give any stock 3rd gen Legacy with an EZ30D a great challenge above 3500rpm.

    The project shall continue, as my next move will be to update the intake into something a hell of a lot better. I have reached the limit of the intake pipe when it comes to turbulence.

    I will also beef up the fuel system a bit to bring in fuel where it is needed so I won't run that lean on the top.

  16. #16
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    Project Esperanza Log:

    The rear end began to pull yesterday, and so I performed the "dime" test, which yielded the rear tires being low in depth and tread. To prevent center differential damage, a 10a fuse was put into the FWD fuse slot and now, I am driving around in FWD mode until I can get new rear tires with my check this Friday.

    However, though the strain was greatly lessened, I still felt a smidge of pull and inspected the rear diff to find that it is slowly leaking at the drain plug. I will inspect further in the morning to see what the issue is. There is no wheel bearing damage or play, but the right side wheel provides significant resistance compared to the left.

    I will also note that in FWD mode, the power delivery is exceptional, and I have even lesser difficulty at all getting up to high speed. 90mph comes up surprisingly and fuel economy is better +3mpg city and +2mpg hwy. I will likely convert the FWD fuse into a toggle switch as I have done so many others to have that extra modicum of control.

    The plan next is to create an advanced intake of some kind to bring even more air in on the low after I solve the rear differential issue, and following that will be as many fuel mods as I can pull off to get this engine at it's maximum on the stock ECU before I eventually get a good piggyback for tuning.

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    You might also consider that your transmission is experiencing torque bind issues. Might be time to drain and refill the ATF and add a friction modifier like LubeGard ATF Protectant.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
    You might also consider that your transmission is experiencing torque bind issues. Might be time to drain and refill the ATF and add a friction modifier like LubeGard ATF Protectant.
    That is a good suggestion. Thank you. I will put in some LubeGard ATF Protectant as soon as I am able. Also, I worked out the rear diff issue. Apparently, it ate through the fresh synthetic fluid I put in it. Fluid came out like water. Put in new fluid and both sides roll easily and freely when spun.

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    All tires are new and matching. AWD works like a peach. Also removed MAF screen to increase airflow. The 22D ran more harmonious than ever recorded on any ECU graph I have had before. Look at the highest values of the STFT and LTFT. She might have run lean, but the MPG rose to about 31mpg at 71mpg and torque was EVERYWHERE on the low end of the rpm where the ECU usually runs rich. I am running a stock MAF sensor now, but will descreen my next one for sure. The drivebility in the city was too much for me to let go.

    Fuel trims:



    ECU graph:











    Needless to say, removing the MAF screen was probably one of the better things I have done before resetting the ECU. I also have a Z32 MAF in my trunk for which I have to retrofit a two way connector to plug it up without destroying my own connector. As soon as I have time, I will undergo that experiment.

    - - - Updated - - -

    The Legacy in it's growing glory.






  20. #20
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    Esperanza Log: Z32 MAF adaptation worked up to a point. I managed to create the double ended connector for the Z32 MAF, plugged it in, and even got the car running and idling on it. However, when it came to actual driving, the ECU capped me out at 3k rpm, running as rich as possible, as it numerically read more air coming in than there actually was. In failing to get it to work with the stock ECU, I succeeded in obtaining data for anyone wishing to adapt it for use on the stock harness so they can follow up with a piggyback or a standalone (this is how to make a double ended wire connector):

    Subaru Yellow + Nissan Fat White Wire = 12v.
    Subaru Blacks + Nissan Blacks = Grounds.
    Subaru Thin White + Nissan Thin White = 5v.

    You WILL want to break a male end out of a Subaru MAF sensor to have the male end you need to complete this connector.

    Nissan Z32 MAF sensors are called "N62" and Subaru MAF sensors for N/A cars are called "RA0."

  21. #21
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    Esperanza Log: Restored stock MAF sensor a few days ago and removed its screen and now my LTFT is at 18.9%. Didn't think the MAF screen removal would do all that much, but the ECU has bumped up fueling to match the extra air coming in. There is clearly more torque across the entire rpm range. I will hold off on the intake mods and increase fuel mods. Once I finish fueling and intake mods, a Greddy Emanage Ultimate is next to reel everything in.

  22. #22
    SLi Lurker Go Mifune's Avatar
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    Ken, would the screen delete be worth trying on an otherwise stock EJ22? Also, have you tried headers on an EJ22 and noticed an improvement?
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Go Mifune View Post
    Ken, would the screen delete be worth trying on an otherwise stock EJ22? Also, have you tried headers on an EJ22 and noticed an improvement?
    I managed to build a hybrid intake for the 22D and it refined everything, even bringing down the LTFT 10%, but I would say that if you do not have the extra spark capacity, do not do it. You are better off as is. Also, headers on any N/A Subaru will yield a definite improvement, considering the stock exhaust manifold is far too small.
    Last edited by Alucard; 07-01-2018 at 11:32 AM.

  24. #24
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    Update: I constructed an intake for smoother flow and that brought the LTFT down to it's regular numbers. It drove normally and nothing nearly as rich as what the ECU was commanding, but was clearly more powerful than when the car ran on the dyno.

    However, the 22D failed in December of 2017 when the timing belt tensioner lost hydraulic pressure, taking the valves with it. This coming Thursday, I pick up an EJ20D from New Jersey and after which, I will build the final draft EJ22D that will be installed. I will also include detailed pictures from the rebuild.

    I have taken pictures of the car before the 22D failed, and when I can, I will post pictures of that and the rebuild of the final draft high compression 22D.

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    Hey Alucard, im jnspired by your work and plan to work on my legacy as well. I have a ‘96 legacy LS completely stocked and was wondering what I should do first? I really want it to look nice and be able to run smooth and fast

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    Quote Originally Posted by Holiboy1 View Post
    Hey Alucard, im jnspired by your work and plan to work on my legacy as well. I have a ‘96 legacy LS completely stocked and was wondering what I should do first? I really want it to look nice and be able to run smooth and fast
    First, bring everything up to date. Fluids, filters, parts, etc. Get as fresh of a base as you can first, then start improving it. You want a long lasting car before one that looks good, imo.

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    Alright, sounds good. And do you mind me asking you a kind of step by step process? Lol, sorry I just recently bought this car and it’s my first car. And also..,my Transmission dipstick is stuck shut like someone super glued it. I can’t seem to pull it out no matter how hard I try any ideas on how to it get it out? Thanks!

  28. #28
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    Esperanza Log:

    Okay, so beginning from my last point, after the engine failure, me and my friends rode out to New Jersey to get this EJ20D for $300. I'd assumed that it had the same big port heads like the last pair I had on the EJ22D. These are pics of the EJ20D.



    Lobes are still pretty fat (8.5mm lift on both intake and exhaust side).





  29. #29
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    Continued: Now we get to the fun part.




    EJ22D is dead.




    EJ20D examination.







    ^-Shim over bucket like the 97-99 25D heads.

  30. #30
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    High compression pistons. Wasn't expecting these types. Even some Subaru EJ veterans had never seen them before.



    ^-No EGR port.


    ^-Pistons come up like, 0.3mm over the deck like all other Phase 1 pistons.


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