So you've bought youself a JDM twin turbo eh?

[Reuben]

I'm seeing a lot of TT's starting to pop up stateside now, I've helped out a couple of the boys out in the pacific northwest with theirs, but there's more and more entering the states now that they've hit that sweet 25. SO. This thread is for those that just got their own TT, and now have the joy of working on them... There's going to be tips and tricks, pitfalls, and work arounds. Don't worry, there's only a small bit of devil magic in these engine bays, otherwise they are pretty straight forward!!! I will be updating this thread as it progresses, and adding Q+A's into this first post.

Working on Subarus Sequential Twin Turbo.

Pictured, an 1996-1998 BG5B GTB


Working on a twin turbo is very similar to signle turbo, only a bit more shit. As far as removing turbo's, playing with exhausts, this should all be like USDM stuff... But when it comes to vac lines, it's easy to get yourself in trouble.

Tip Number ONE: DO NOT PULL THE VAC LINES OFF THE BLACK BOX. On top of the black box is a 10mm bolt, securing down a fork shaped clamp. The fork shaped clamp is holding in up to 4 vacuum plugs, that have up to 4 vac lines on each plug. These plugs are numbered, and keyed, so it is impossible to fuck it up. The intercooler has it's own plug, the secondary turbo has it's own plug.... knowing this one fact will help you not fucking up your vac system!!!
The black box (of Death)(Aka BBoD), is the muscle of the twin turbo operation. Inside the black box is multiple solenoids, as wll as your map sensor. Like sinlge turbo, you have a pressure select solenoid inline before the map sensor, and you have a boost control solenoid. Important to note is the boost solenoid inside the black box is not actually controlling boost, it's actually the secondary turbo exhaust valve. The cars boost control solenoid lives in the left (passenger side) fender. Also in here are solenoids to control your secondary boost bypass valve, your intercooler secondary butterfly valve, and some other random shit. You won't ever need to know this stuff cause it's just not part of any maintenance or repair you'll ever do. I work with these cars on a semi profesional basis, and I never have had to go into the guts of a BBoD, any boost issues are normally outside of this box, usually because muppets have fucked with something in the engine bay and broken it.









Here's a video on how to remove and re-fit the intercooler properly!!! This is the easiest way, trust me, I've only done it 100 times.


Another issue you will likely face, is a TT that isn't performing right. Sometimes if they perform so poorly, they can throw the dreaded code 66! Never fear, code 66 is widely missunderstood. In all my dealings with it, it's never been major, it's always been some vac line someone has changed, or that has snapped. Though I have read of people who have needed to clean out their BBoD to sort it. Put simply, code 66 is the ECU figuring out that yo car aint boosting proper! that's it. Unlike the other 60 codes, it's not linked to a specific solenoid or sensor. It usually comes on when you've got the engine loaded, that is, say, going up a hill, but the primary isn't coming on boost. The last 66 I solved a few months ago was a customer who had just bought a GT VDC, but it looked as though the engine had been replaced with a non VDC engine, and the mechanics who had put it in had done the vac lines up following a non VDC vac diagram. I corrected the vac lines, and presto, primary started to boost proper and code 66 went away. I've also seen 66 in cars where people had replaced their vac lines with silicone. Don't be that guy, you're just opening yourself up a world of hurt. Code 66 can also come on when your primary turbo dies. And yes, primary turbo's dying is a way of life for twin turbo's. I wouldn't say it's as prevelant as EJ25's blowing headgaskets by a long way (nothing is), but it is common still. You can still buy primary turbo's new though! (Update: From where I don't know, the guys in NZ who were importing them have stopped) So if you get code 66, check ALL of your engine bay vac lines against the CORRECT vac diagram. Keep reading to see how to identify what vac system you have.

ECU Error codes are listed at the end of the thread, including the 60 series of TT codes.

Now to the engine bay... Now this is where I tell you there's actually 4 different types of black box, and associated vac line setup. You have BG5A, BG5B/C, BH5A/B/C and BH5D, And for bonus points, BH5A/B/C WITH VDC (twin vac line BOV's anyone?). Online you will find BG5A, BH5A/B/C and BH5D info, but curiously you wont find BG5B/C. I plan to change this is the near future as I am sick of not having diagrams of the vac system for BG GTB's. - EDIT, done, created a B/C rev BG vac line layout, posted below! You're welcome!
Some of the big differences are for example, BG5A has a wastegate on the secondary turbo, but B/C does not. BH is different again, and Rev-D's simplified things a bit. BH's are much more confusing than BG's, lots of tee pieces around the BOV/primary side for some reason...















Engine/Model Identification:

Engine identification... What twin turbo have I, and why does this vac line pic I found on the googles not resemble my engine bay in any way... So a big part of knowing twin turbo, is knowing what type you are dealing with. As mentioned above there's 4 (5) types of vac line arrangement, but it goes much deeper than that. Spanning the 10 year life of TT was multiple engine generations. We started with hydraulic lifter engines like USDM 96 outbacks, and ended int he bug eye generation with phase-III top feed injector goodness. Here's the break down

2nd Gen legacy, Pre facelift 1993-1996
Chassis: BD5A, BG5A.
Engine generation: Phase-I
Engines: EJ20H
Power: 250ps/246hp/183kw
Valvetrain: Direct HLA
Compression EJ20H - 8.5:1
Quick id: Rocker covers have lines embossed, 6-bolt.
USDM part commonality: EJ25D '96
JDM single turbo part commonality: Ver. 1/2

Interesting notes: All pre facelifts have the same engine, auto or manual. All engines are hydraulic lifter (Direct HLA, with lifter in bucket, rather than rocker like in the first gens), these engines are common with your first year EJ25D, found in the 96 outback, that odd one that has lines on the rocker cover... Why did the US only get that engine for one year? well that just happened to be the last year of production for hydraulic DOHC engines, this generation engine had been in production from 92 till 96 in japan.



2nd Gen Legacy, Facelift. 1996-1998
Chassis: BD5B, BD5C, BG5B, BG5C
Engine generation: MASTER-4 (Phase-I)
Engines: EJ20H, EJ20R B-Rev, EJ20R C-rev
Power: EJ20H 260ps/256hp/191kw
Power: EJ20R 280ps/276ph/206kw
Valvetrain: Solid lifter, shim over bucket
Compression: EJ20H - 9:1
Compression: EJ20R B-Rev - 8:1
Compression: EJ20R C-Rev - 8.5:1
Quick id: Smooth rocker cover, 6-bolt. EJ20H grey injectors, EJ20R yellow injectors.
USDM Part commonality: EJ25D '97+
JDM single turbo part commonality: Ver. 3/4

Interesting notes: Facelift introduced the GTB. The GTB is not a "B-spec", it's a GTB (B-spec started with 4th gens). There was a divergence in the engine types from this point on, and we get 190kw engines, and 206kw engines.
EJ20H: This is the 190kw engine. This is a different engine to the pre facelift. this engine has solid lifters with shim over bucket, these engines are like the late 25D's, and EJ20K's (V3/V4 STi motor) etc. EJ20H's of all forms come with grey top injectors.
EJ20R: Physically looks identical to the smooth cover 20H, same rocker covers etc. Camshafts are different, compression ratio is different, turbo's are different, air flow meter and injectors are different. Power is a glorious 206kw. These engines are the twin turbo version of the EJ20K. The only difference from the 20K is there's an extra hole bored in the left head for the primary turbo, shim over bucket, unlike the 20K which is shim under bucket, and cast pistons, unlike 20K's forged pistons. Piston crown is the same design, camshafts are the same, head castings are the same. Interestingly with the EJ20R, the B-rev was 8:1 like the 20K, C-rev was 8.5:1... EJ20R's have yellow injectors and orange air flow meter like the 20K.
EJ20R's are found only on MANUAL GTB's (and RSB). Auto GTB's got the 20H. GT's got the 20H.

WARNING!!! Mechanics who don't know this shit, and who don't give a f*ck, have been working on these cars for 25 years by the time you get your mits on them, there is no gurantee that just cause you got a manual GTB, that you have an EJ20R in your car! I have seen hydraulic engines in GTB's, I have seen grey top smooth 20H's in GTB's. Mechanics here when they get a GTB with a blown engine usually have no idea that the EJ20R is any different to an H, and will slap whatever twin turbo they get their hands on in the hole. So yeah. enjoy. and also, sorry.



3rd Gen legacy, Pre facelift. 1998-2000
Chassis BE5A, BE5B, BH5A, BH5B
Engine generation: Phase-II
Engines: EJ206 A/B-rev, EJ206 A/B Rev with VDC, EJ208 A/B-rev
Power: EJ206 260ps/256hp/191kw
Power: EJ208 280ps/276ph/206kw
Valvetrain: Solid lifter, shim over bucket.
Compression: EJ206 - 9:1
Compression: EJ208 - 8.5:1
Quick id: Smooth rocker cover, 8-bolt. Intake manifold has flat runners on passenger side (where the coil pack would sit on an WRX of the same year)
USDM Part commonality: None
JDM single turbo part commonality: Ver. 5/6

Interesting notes: Engine design starts to converge again. Still EJ206 in GT's and Auto GTB's, EJ208's in manual GTB/RSK's. Now all motors have same air flow meters, and yellow injectors (larger body than the older injectors, these are the same fitment as EJ25D red top injecotrs funny enough). Much like the smooth cover EJ20H vs R, there's no way to tell these engines apart visually, and it's especially hard since they both have yellow injectors (at least 20H/R had grey/yellow). There's nothing much to say about these engines. They are Phase-II DOHC, you didn't get this type of motor in the states, since they killed the 25D and went to EJ251's, blegh. They are more similar to the Phase-III motors you're used to seeing in the bug eys, same manifold bolt pattern, fat cam seals and all that jaz. In japan this is when the EJ204 and EJ254 DOHC AVCS Non turbo's were introduced, so they have common parts with AVCS engines such as cam seals and rocker covers etc. They are a little odd, cause they are like an AVCS head, but have no AVCS.
The VDC (Vehicle Dynamics Control) equipped cars have a different vac layout, as there's an extra solenoid to control the BOV, and the BOV has two ports. VDC could solenoid open up the BOV to kill your power as a form of traction control. These cars are hilariously bad when fitted whith shitty chinese tyres, as they will wheel spin in first, VDC will traction control you and kill the power, then the auto gets confused by what's going on and shifts and bogs you down. Yaaaaaaay. Do not buy VDC cars when they become available stateside, they are shit to drive, and shit to work on. If you end up with one, buy good quality tyres, only buy them in sets of 4. Do not modify your engine in any way shape or form, the ECU will have a FIT if you touch anything in the engine bay, they are really really tricky to work with, in essence, VDC cars are unmodifyable.



3rd Gen Legacy, Pre facelit 2000-2001
Chassis BE5C, BH5C
Engine generation: Phase-II
Engines: EJ206 C-rev, EJ206 C Rev with VDC, EJ208 C-rev
Power: EJ206 260ps/256hp/191kw
Power: EJ208 280ps/276ph/206kw
Valvetrain: Solid lifter, shim over bucket.
Compression: EJ206 - 9:1
Compression: EJ208 - 9:1
Quick id: Smooth rocker cover, 8-bolt. Intake manifold has high rise runners both sides
USDM Part commonality: None
JDM single turbo part commonality: Ver. 5/6

Interesting notes: Kind of an oddball car these. They are mostly the same as the other pre-facelift, still have yellow injectors, still phase-II, make same power etc. The intake manifold design changed, no longer did they have the flat half, both side runners go high. EJ208 got a compression ratio bump to 9:1, now the same as EJ206.



3rd Gen Legacy, Facelit 2001-2003
Chassis BE5D, BH5D
Engine Generation: Phase-III
Engines: EJ206 D-rev, EJ206 D-Rev with VDC, EJ208 D-rev
Power: EJ206 260ps/256hp/191kw
Power: EJ208 280ps/276ph/206kw
Valvetrain: Solid lifter, shim over bucket.
Compression: EJ206 - 9:1
Compression: EJ208 - 9:1
Quick id: Top feed pink injectors
USDM Part commonality: GDAA, "Bug-eye"
JDM single turbo part commonality: Ver. 7

Interesting notes: Phase-III is here, enter the modern age! These engines are common with bug eyes in almost every way, except AVCS. Manifolds though are very similar design to the C-rev, only now they have pink top feed injectors like JDM EJ207 bug eys. These engines have all the short block goodness of the bug eyes too, gone is the big end bearing unreliability of the old phase-I and phase-II engines. (And don't laugh, you guys think big ends in USDM turbo subies are unreliable... they are not, they have got NOTHING on the unreliability of the EJ20R and EJ208, NOTHING I SAY). These cars are somewhat sought after here, as the twin turbo system in them is PHENOMINAL compared to the older ones, they actually do what you think they should. They are pleasing to drive, and reliable. Subaru essentially after 8 years perfected twin turbo... Only to drop it 2 years later with the introduction of twin scroll turbo's on the 4th gen.

Conclusion on engine differences. As you can see it can be very hard to identify the difference between them. EJ206's and EJ208's of the same year appear identical on the outside. So yeah, good luck. Your only hope is to pray that the engine in your car is original, and that you can rely on the vin plate.


Parts
Part info coming later.


Technical Docs
Here's a link to my google drive that has pinouts for all the JDM models I can find, and wiring diagrams for all the models I can find. Of not is the absence of BG wiring diagrams. Never found one, not in 15 years. The Impreza V3/4 wiring diagram is 90% applicable, with the USDM outback wiring diagram filling in another 5% missing stuff. But no joy on the TT specific wiring.

Pinouts are in their own folder. Wiring diagrams are in the chassis specific folders with the rest of the FSM's

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...bQ&usp=sharing

But Reuben, how does TT actually work?
Like... How does it actually chooch? Why does it have a dead spot at 4000rpm?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.ph...in-Turbo-Myths

CEL Error codes:
To pull codes, it's the same process as SSMI (OBD-I) cars like the Legacy SS, SVX etc in the US. This is the guide I've always used: https://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

Remove the kick panel under the steering column. To the left of the steering column will be a bundle of wires with a bunch of disconnected connectors. Among them will be a pair of T-shaped (normally 2-pin) connectors, populated with only 1 pin in each side, and a pair of black spade terminal stile single pin connectors. Sometimes these are taped up to the bundle with blue electrical tape.

The green connectors are the Dealer Check Connectors, and the black ones are the Read Connectors. With the ignition off, connect the read connectors together, turn the ignition on (don't start the car), and read the blinking CEL. The CEL will present a 2-digit code, the first digit is represented with long flashes, the second digit with short flashes. So if you get Long-Long-Long-Short-Short, that's 3-2, or code 32. then there will be a longer pause, and the next code will display. Once all codes are displayed an ever longer pause will occur, then it will repeat the codes.

The codes are displayed in order of most recent codes first, oldest last. So once you have gathered all your codes, turn the ignition off and on again, and just check which code is the first one, this will be the most recent CEL.

To use the D-check mode, start with both connectors disconnected, start the engine, allow it to warm up, then turn it off. Next, connect the test mode connectors (green T-shape). Turn ignition to ON position without turning on engine. At this point if the check engine light does not come on, it is faulty and must be fixed before continuing. Depress accelerator pedal to floor, return to half throttle and hold for two seconds, then release. Start the engine. Now the light can blink in two different ways. If a problem is already detected, it will blink according to the chart below. Your next step will be to drive the car with the test mode connectors connected. You must drive over 7 mph for at least one minute, and shift up to 4th gear if you have a manual tranny. Now, either you will discover your trouble codes, or you will have none.

Driving in D-check mode makes the ECU do a more thorough audit of the sensors, and operation, and will more readily pull up codes that might not otherwise pop up.

Lastly, to erase trouble codes from the computer (without resorting to the infamous battery disconnect dance), repeat the above D-check procedure exactly, but connect both the green and black connectors at the appropriate time.

(Yes these work on JDM BH/BE models)

11 - Crank Angle Sensor
12 - Starter Switch
13 - Cam Angle Sensor
14 - Injector 1
15 - Injector 2
16 - Injector 3
17 - Injector 4
21 - Water Temp Sensor
22 - Knock Sensor
23 - Air Flow Sensor / MAF Sensor
24 - IACV / Idle Control Valve
31 - Throttle Position Sensor
32 - o2 Sensor (Pre cat)
33 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (In instrument cluster for BG/BD)
35 - Evap Purge Solenoid
41 - A/F Learning Control
42 - Idle Switch
44 - Boost Control Solenoid / Wastegate Duty Solenoid
45 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor / MAP Sensor
45 - Pressure Select Solenoid (The wee solenoid between the manifold and MAP sensor)
49 - Improper MAF detected
51 - Neutral Switch (MT)
51 - Inhibitor Switch (AT)
52 - Parking Switch
58 - Vacuum leak detected by ECU

TT Specific codes:

61 - Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve (BBoD Solenoid - Controls vacuum to the vacuum cannister?)
62 - Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid - Negative side (BBoD Solenoid)
63 - Supercharging Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve (Primary) (Main boost solenoid in passenger side fender)
64 - Supercharging Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve (Secondary) (BBoD Solenoid - A-rev BG only, NOT the main duty solenoid in the BBoD)
65 - Differential Pressure Sensor (On firewall)
66 - Twin Turbocharger System(H)
66 - Twin Turbocharger System(S)
66 - Twin Turbocharger System(T)
66 - Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System
67 - Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid - Positive side (BBoD Solenoid)
68 - Exhaust Valve Duty Solenoid - (BBoD Solenoid - Main duty solenoid in BBoD)

Uh-oh, I got code 66…
Code 66 is used by the ECU if it detects the car is running like shit. It's not related to a specific solenoid, rather the overall health of your vacuum layout, or the turbo system in general. It can crop up when the vac lines are put back together wrong, like what happens where someone fucks around and uses the wrong diagram, or if a hose has snapped/fallen off somewhere for example. It also happens if you have a turbo not boosting enough, or sometimes boosting too much. Essentiall it's a catch all for when the expected boost curves are not being reached, which could essentially be anything.

When code 66 comes on, there is a hard cut associated with it, it's normally pretty violent. To get home, turn the car off, and back on again, and just drive gently.

To rectify a code 66:
Check for intake pipe leaks, common leak spots are where the PCV plumbs in (under the throttle body, the pipe cracks) and the soft rubber seals onto the front of the turbos.
Check for boost leaks where the intercooler hoses clamp to the turbo's, it's very common for these to get folded over and leak when the intercooler has come off and gone back on again.
Listen out for the primary turbo screetching or excess oil smoke coming out the exhaust, in case the primary turbo is blown.
Change your spark plugs, while in there, check to see if one of the coil plugs has come loose, running on 3 cyls can sometimes trigger 66.
Check or try a new MAF sensor, if it's far enough out of calibration, the resulting reduction in performance is enough to trigger 66 sometimes, even if not pulling codes for MAF.
Do you have a small pod filter? Bin it, go back to stock, or get a proper high flow filter, the casiest case of 66 i have heard of was a pod that was too small, and choking the car as secondary tried to come online
Lastly, if none of that helps, verify your vacuum layout matches the layouts published above.



MODIFICATIONS

LINE 10 MOD

Line 10 mod bad, no do.
Also it can only be done to BH's, but it thrashes the primary, I've replaced a few primary's for customers now, who had the line 10 mod, normally about a $1200 job if yah unlucky and are paying full retail ($400 in time, $600 for the turbo at wrecker prices in NZ). I've also seen people try do it to BG's, but you can't... so naturally that goes about as well as you'd expect... So yeah, fucking forget the line 10 mod.

Onto more positive things.


FITTING A NON WASTEGATE SECONDARY TO A-REV BG/BD's

Sometimes you own a BG5A/BD5A, and ya turbo's fuck out, or they just aren't boosty enough for yah... So you go chuck on the big boys off a BH D-rev... WELL, if you look at the above diagrams real close you'll note the BG A-rev's have quite a different vac system... there's a heck of a lot more vac lines... and yup, that's a wastegate on the secondary turbo in ya A-rev... Well WTF are you gonna do about the vac lines for that!? Simple, turns out only two lines need to be delt with.

Line 16 is the duty solenoid positive pressure reference (Only has positive pressure once secondary is online, and the intercooler valve is open).
Line 8 is the duty solenoid to wastegate line.

Remove line 8, it's useless now.
Block line 16 at the junction tube thing above the secondary pre-spool releif valve, and remove the line to the BBoD if you want. Or if you wanna get real fancy, replace this junction pipe with one from a facelift or BH, it will only have one vac port, not two!
Well done, you now have a Secondary-sans-gate running in yah A-rev.

If you do not do this, every time you hit secondary, the ECU will be opening up the solenoid, and suddenly you have a pretty modest vacuum leak. With 16 blocked, no more leak, and the solenoid will just chooch away on it's own affecting nobody.








So this is a work in progress, that took me 2 hours to write, I now have to proof read it, flesh it out, format it, take photo's and find photo's online. Please ask questions, I want to add as much info in here as possible for you poor cunts. Welcome to the world of twin trubo f*ckers, enjoy your stay!!!



Change Log:
25/09/2021:
Added another link to the Google docs tech documents, I was getting notifications that Te link was out of date? Try both.
30/03/2021:
Added BBoD Diagrams
04/09/2020:
Added modifications section
23/06/2020:
Updated all vac layout images, now they are common with each other.
Added Rev-D vac layout image
Added link to my video showing the correct pocedure for removing and fitting the intercooler
Added CEL codes, including 60 series codes for TT.
The NZ suppler of new primary turbo's (I think they had VF 13's and 26's) has stopped importing them. They no longer list them on their website - It was turbochargersNZ
Added link to my google drive with the pinouts and manuals I have.
14/05/2024:
Updated the CEL section. Added how to retrieve codes, improved the description of code 66, and added items to check over if you get code 66.

[Red85Celica]

I'm so glad you're around and willing to help me with my shitty A-rev I need to become the master twin turbo guy in the US.

[Reuben]

I'm always happy to help! Never be afraid to ask questions. And I'm continually updating this post, there should be some pics now! I just gotta get my hands on an A-rev to take pics of (not hard here, fucking everywhere), and a BH with and without VDC. Flatmate has a rev-D also, so am sorted for rev-d pics.

[Perron]

Well first off, I myself have a BH.
2001, BH5D has an EJ206 2.0L twinscroll..

My legacy seems to have some issues, I have a two engine codes P0340 (Camshaft position sensor "A" Circuit bank 1 or single sensor) And P0171 (System to lean Bank 1).
Your thread made me think perhaps I am having a vacuum issue. I've noticed, cold starts if I don't let it run for a minute before putting it in drive, it literally 'putts' around like a go kart and the gas pedal does little to nothing... I've also noticed going up hills it barely makes it sometimes. I've replaced the spark plugs. both codes were present before and after spark plugs were replaced.
I've been told to replace the Lambda / O2 sensor, but I unplugged it as a test and it didn't do anything except add an engine light to my cluster.

Also, if you're still in need of some photos of a BH I may be able to help you with that!

[Reuben]

Take your alternator belt off and go for a test drive.

Edit: Explanation; the alternators in the 3rd gen's have a common fault, where the reg/rectifier goes bad, they send out electro magnetic interference which get's puicked up as static/noise on the cam and crank angle sensor wiring. The ECU can't interpret it, and so throws codes for cam or crank angle. They can run rough before getting to the point of throwing codes, you don't need the CEL on for this fault to present bad symptoms. It will be a rough idle, or lack of power, much like bad plugs or faulty coils, or a bad MAF. The quick easy way to test if you don't have a $10,000 oscilloscope to see what the cam and crank signals look like, is to whip the A/C belt off and run the car, if it magically runs fine, and the CEL goes away if one was present, presto, time for a new alternator.

[Perron]

Take your alternator belt off and go for a test drive.

Edit: Explanation; the alternators in the 3rd gen's have a common fault, where the reg/rectifier goes bad, they send out electro magnetic interference which get's puicked up as static/noise on the cam and crank angle sensor wiring. The ECU can't interpret it, and so throws codes for cam or crank angle. They can run rough before getting to the point of throwing codes, you don't need the CEL on for this fault to present bad symptoms. It will be a rough idle, or lack of power, much like bad plugs or faulty coils, or a bad MAF. The quick easy way to test if you don't have a $10,000 oscilloscope to see what the cam and crank signals look like, is to whip the A/C belt off and run the car, if it magically runs fine, and the CEL goes away if one was present, presto, time for a new alternator.

Wish I would of remembered I asked that question earlier. I appreciate the reply and wow did it help. I'm currently sitting in my legacy after taking the belt off and it ran great. I was going to take a longer test drive but no power steering is harder to do then I thought! I didn't see any engine light. I will definitely be looking into an alternator.
Also sorry if these replies are off topic of the post!

Edit: Replaced alternator and have no Shaky starts or idling funny at a red light. BUUTTTT I have some other issues I have to workout here now. Again Thanks for the advice Reuben

[Reuben]

Updated 23/06/2020

Change Log:
Updated all vac layout images, now they are common with each other.
Added Rev-D vac layout image
Added link to my video showing the correct pocedure for removing and fitting the intercooler
Added CEL codes, including 60 series codes for TT.
The NZ suppler of new primary turbo's (I think they had VF 13's and 26's) has stopped importing them. They no longer list them on their website - It was turbochargersNZ

[mike-tracy]

Now that ej20h based Legacys are legal in the states, I anticipate seeing more questions about these going forwards.

Thanks for the Update Reuben.

[Reuben]

Exciting news! Got some hardcore JDM only wiring diagrams coming for BG, such as the climate control computer wiring! Stay tuned.

[Reuben]

Updated 30/03/21

Added BBoD Diagrams.

[PureJDMBG5]

Updated 30/03/21

Added BBoD Diagrams.

I’m new on here and to the Suby fam as well. I’ll be getting my act together soon I promise but I’d like to start by thanking you for all the effort you’ve put into the formation you’ve provided. You should have a Patreon account man. Seriously!

Anyway, I was wondering about your single turbo conversion write up. I noticed you didn’t start with revision A. Since that is what I have in my 95 JDM Legacy GT, I’m wondering what would be my best course of action to single turbo this motor? Is it even worth it? Is there a reason you didn’t do a write up for rev A?

My goal for my car is to manual swap and get the engine to be a bit more reliable. The BBOD and all those vacuum line scare me. Luckily my car only has 76,000km’s and is in seriously good shape. I’ve got tons of time to do other things but I thought I’d ask someone who obviously knows a lot more than me. Is it worth it to keep this engine as a base for a more reliable build with a small bump in power? Any and all advice is welcomed and appreciated.

[Prevo]

First off would like to say this is the most information I have came across, so thank you for your time in doing all this.

I recently bought a 2000 BE5 and just getting into the jdm legacy scene. Everything on the car was working great except sometimes when I would be driving, after a 10-15 min drive I would notice a huge drop in my boost (around 5-6 psi) when I would usually get around 12 psi. Before, the the solution that seemed to have worked was that I would turn off my car and then back on again, it temporarily would go back to holding the boost I had initially. But a couple of days ago it fell back to 6 psi, so I thought no biggie ill just do what I have been doing before which was to turn it off wait a bit then turn it back on again. But when i turned it back on again it didnt go back to normal.

could my car have gone into limp mode? I will be getting a obd2 scanner to check for any codes and clearing them to see if that would make a difference.
Not much has been done to the car except the radiator was replaced for a mishimoto one and a boost gauge was added by previous owner. I am pretty much a noob when it comes turbos and boxer engines so any advice or information will be super appreciated.
Thank you.

[mike-tracy]

Two more years till the 1998 BE's are legal in the states! Is there any standalones that are directly compatible with those?

[LosMan603]

Hoping this thread is still active, I just purchased a 97 GTB 5 speed! The car is arriving tomorrow with only 53,000 miles and is mostly OEM.

Looking forward to using it as my daily driver, and my kids are excited to see a RHD car

Anyways thank you for posting this information, it is a literal gold mine and has already answered sooooo many of my questions and anxieties lol.

[Reuben]

I still keep this alive and update as I get more info/data!

Congrats on the purchase!

[LosMan603]

Thanks, I'll celebrate when I get in the driver seat

While I count the hours until the 97 arrives, I am already in a bit of a pickle. The car is currently fitted with a HippoSleek grille painted in Alpine White (51E) and I hate it. Actually, I am 90% sure it's Hipposleek but I 100% hate it.

Any idea if a USDM grille could be fitted? Visually the fitment looks really similar in pictures.

Otherwise I may save my pennies for a jdm replacement. Or potential swap with another lucky Legacy owner.

[Reuben]

Get yo ass onto the 2nd gen legacy enthusiasts fcebook page if it isn't already. I'm sure someone will want to swap for a stock JDM grille. Cause no, you can't ran the US grille, it's too tall. Very poor fit.

[LosMan603]

You know, now that I can see the BG5 in person, that Hipposleek grille doesn't look too bad

One thing I noticed straight away that seemed strange, the BOV has been piped way off the intercooler. Check out this pic... have you seen this type of fitment before?




p.s. here is a pic of the old girl

[Reuben]

No I've never seen that! You could easily improve on that install, that's just lazy.

[lord flashheart]

No I've never seen that! You could easily improve on that install, that's just lazy.

Imma just keep my hood closed...

[LosMan603]

No I've never seen that! You could easily improve on that install, that's just lazy.

Haha yeah I was seriously scratching my head when i saw that. Honestly I am not sure I even want an atmospheric bov on the car...

Ideally I would just go back to the stock recirculating valve... having a hard time finding one that isn't on ebay. Any advice on how to source OEM parts or cross ref to usdm stuff that may fit?

I searched a around on this forum but I haven't found anything super helpful yet.

Cheers

[BH5Leg]

So helpful man! Just brought a BH5 ej208 and was pulling my hair out until i seen this! You are the man! Cheers man!

[Reuben]

It just so happens I updated the single conversion thread tonight, go re-read it my man.

I will ask first, what do you expect to gain from single converting? What are your motivations? If the TT is great fun already, it may not be worth converting. However, you mentioned “slight bump in power”. Thems are dangerous words boy.

If you stay twin turbo. Stay stock. No bumps in power for you. Don’t do it. Basically the TT ECU’s hate changes in performance, and the whole system can collapse if you do anything wrong, like accidentally change a vac line, or use silicone anywhere. But if you single convert, you can mod the hell out of the car and really work that engine into what you want. The block itself is good for another 50hp without any worries. These early 20H’s can put 250hp to the ground in their sleep with an ECU, turbo, and injectors.

Long story short, there is no plug’n’play ECU’s for A-revs. The wiring is closest to BC/BF and GC/GF EJ20G. It is possible to re-pin it to these, or 3-plug of course, but that’s so much work to still be handicapped by stock 90’s ECU’s. The ideal would either re-pin to 4 or 3 plug single ECU pinouts, then get a plug’n’play link or haltech, or just straight up replace the factory plugs with link or haltech plugs and go that way. In other words, the wiring required is that of a stand alone ECU mod, not ya traditional single-conversion swap-a-few-pins-round and ya done. But mechanically wise, it’s all exactly the same.

[PureJDMBG5]

Cool I'll check out the update as soon as I can and thanks again for staying motivated to provide all this useful info.

My goals for the car are a follows:

1) Manual swap with the ECU from a manual JDM GT. I'm pretty sure this is all pretty easy and most shops should be able to do it.

2) Do a single turbo swap so that the engine and maintenance are easier and get a bit more hrsprs. I'm thinking as close to 300 as I can. All info I've seen says the EJ20H rev. A has 247bhp. If it ends up around 260 or 280 I won't be sad. I like to cruise not race around like a maniac.

Can you piggy back (is that the right term of phrase?) another ECU to handle the bump in power from a bigger turbo? I guess the better question is can the place I take the car KNOW how to do it with this engine? Or would a stand alone ECU be a safer easier option? The last thing I want is to take this car to a shop and be yessed to death only to get may baby back and find out they hacked it together.

Seriously the guy who installed my Bilstein Coil Overs and Cusco top hats that cost $3k? It looks like they were installed by a gorilla using a hammer after downing 20 redbulls. They are nicked and dented from the effort of installing them. I'd complain but what would be the use? Just won't ever go there for anything ever again.

My first attempt at uploading a photo. Did it work?
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...jyu5eb36rE8l6i

This is where I'm at now with the engine. Again thank you for any and all advice you could offer me. If you were local I'd buy you a beer or two man.

[Reuben]

No ECU required for manual swap. They’re are the same between auto and manual (basically). You just need to change the state of the AT/MT identifier pin, and that tells whatever ECU that’s in there if it’s an auto or manual.

The autos in the JDM GT’s are VTD transmissions unlike N/A boxes. Kinda sought after for those in the know, but that’s so few willing to do the work on making one run that the market for it is nill

As for ECU. Buy a link. Dont fuck around. The link eliminates the need for high octane, allows bigger injectors, allows you to tune for your power mods, allows you to throw the MAF in the bin, and simplifies your rewiring for single turbo, and also makes it possible for regular speed shops who already do things like installing ECU’s. Which all makes it easier for you to make more power, safer.

[SntSpanish]

Picked up a 99 BH5B and its got some issues, when in 2-5 gear at anything over 70% throttle, the car jerks and surges in the secondary turbo rev range. Also throws a CEL. Any help is appreciated

.

[Reuben]

I would be checking the vac lines to the turbo, making sure theyre all good. Get a boost gauge on there and see what boost pressure it makes after crossover. if its way down compared to primary, thats where you gotta focus your attention.

Code 66 means “my turbos aren’t boosting properly”, it’s not related to any particular solenoid or sensor, they have unique codes of their own. Basically the ECU is lookibg for a certain boost level relative to engine load (air mass vs throttle position), and if it doesnt reach that boost target, code 66 is thrown and the car violently gets put into limp mode.

So yeah, figure out why its not boosting. Ive seen blown turbos, restrictive cheap pod filters, vacuum lines routed incorrectly, all cause code 66. To be fair the usual culprit is vac lines after an engine swap not being correct.

[s0abh4]

after finding this post searching everywhere my be5 is alive wrong vaccum line set up when motorswap was done by previous owner and couldn't get it to figured out so I bought it at quite a good deal. thank u for posting all this stuff greatly appreciated. now to figure out what I should do for down pipes? can I just remove cats without having to get any sort of tune

[Reuben]

I would advise against downpipe mods. The system is sensitive to overboosting. Honestly, do not mod it. Get it running mint, and you wont want to. If its not enough, TT isn't for you, and you should single convert.

Honestly get her running mint first, then reevaluate.

[s0abh4]

that's all I needed to here it'll stay they way it is . can't believe how quick it is from a week ago . thank u again for your knowledge!