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Thread: XRAYSPECS - 2002 - BE - L - Upgrade Everything

  1. #61
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    finished burping the cooling system tonight and took the car for a spin in the torrential down pour to make sure that it would stay cool and to check for moon roof leaks, good on both accounts as there was no dripping on the headliner for the 1/2 hour drive. looks like the previous leak was from a dirty moon roof seal and possibly the dirt sitting on the seal thats good news its fixed. downside is i noticed a at certain idle speed though that the cat hanger rubber is compelety worn out as the exhaust has a ring at certain rpm, i thought the cat hanger felt loose when i was under the transmission doing the shifter bushings. another thing to add to parts to grab from the 02.

  2. #62
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    I took it on some small drives around to make sure everything is up to shape. sounds like i have a brake dust shieldin the front drivers side that got bent moving subframes around that is riding on a rotor. ill have to fix that when i get under the front agian. I also noticed that it sounded like the rear wheel bearings were starting to howl. Not unusuall for a 20 year old/180k mile bearings to be worn out. All the m ore motivation to finish swaping parts.





    This lasted about a week before taking it all apart agian.

    put the whole front back together on the '02 so that I could put it on the front wheels. once it was together It was a lot easier to sping the car on with the jack stands with no engine in the car.


    All ready to have the rear subframe removed with all the speed parts.


    Rear subframe from the '02 with all the polymer and shocks out of the 02.


    Pulled the '01 into the garage, I started to removed the trunk trim/appolstry bits and noticed there was water on the tire protector/board. Thats not great news. the spare tire well had some small puddle disculorations like it had gotten water in the past.... great.



    Continued pulling with removing the rear floor mat, and the cover trim pieces on the trunk, felt the water on the insulation on the driver side of the trunk, followed it over and noticed. this puddle in the fender well..... I wonder how many times that has flilled up over the years.


    The piece for the car jack has swelled up and is moldy, so this has happend a few times it looks like.


    At first glance it was obvious the moonroof drain tube is not connected to the drain connection in the fender well.


    After some swear words and fishing around in the car found the drain tube. thats a relief that I wont have to drop the head liner and fish a new one through the C-pillar.


    Put the drain line back in the fender vent, and sucked all the water out with a vaccum and dried out the fender well with some shop rags, doesnt look like theres any surface rust or anything anywhere. So glad I caught it now. Hopefully it stays put now.


    Passenger side was all in place as it should be.


    Whole rear subframe off the '01. After getting the subframe down all the bushings in the '01 were in the same state as all the old ones on the '02 were. I'd recon to say any 3rd gen legacy with over 100k miles needs all the rear link bushings replaced. Time has just gotten to them all.


    Nice view of the magnaflow axle back that came on the '01. Im not a big fan of the straight tip, might have that replaced with a pie cut 90° downturn in the future.


    The two main parts needed from the '01 rear subframe is the whiteline rear sway bar, as its much heavier and the 4.11:1 rear diff to match the transmission. Another upgrade is the 4.11 from the limited has a VLSD in it.



    Removed the diff and cleaned it up a bit. I think it has been over filled a few times, as the whole thing was coated in gear oil from the breather down.
    .

    Subframe getting ready to go into the '01.


    Whiteline rear swaybar on the car. Set the links to the stiffer setting of the start, why not since everything else is set to stiff right?


    4.11 rear diff installed and all ready to go into the car. you can also see the exhaust on the bumper here that is the reason i prefer downturns.



    So much goodness installed in '01 now. with the whiteline swaybars that were on the car I now have the full whiteline catalog for bushings on this car. In the process of working on the car, facebook reminded me that 5 years ago as well i was working on the '02.


    Took some time and cleaned all the brake dust off the wheels. once i get the car aligned and the fenders all rolled. These will be going up for sale. i dont need 2 sets of rims and tires.


    Installed the rear Cusco strut bar. decieded not to trim the rear trim panels for the bar, i dont ever put anything in the trunk and this aint a show car so its not a big deal. nice that this one has the oem option turn net.



    Also dug out all the fasterners and parts for the JDM factory option rear spats. I bought these on here off another member a few years back and never paint matched them green or installed them on the '02 theyve been in the parts pile for some time. I also have the matching fronts but havent installed them yet. Nice that theyre white and have never been installed before. I think these are the BH option ones as the fit is a little different on the bottom back inside once they were installed. but honestly its not to bad. all the instructions are a nifty little bulletin to have for the car build folder. Nothing like some rare option oem pieces. now if only I could find the font lip option spoiler kit in white.




    It lives, runs and drives like a whole new car. need to take it for an alignment this week so that I can take it on longer drives than around the block.



    left on the to-do for the parts, the car is still thowing the same two engine codes, from the MIL. so Ill have to change the throttle body so the 01 ecu can idle the car correctly and run right. also need to swap the NSS for the front. Also need to swap the head unit from my 02 to the 01 or buy a new one so I can have car play. Last is move over the Wink mirror to the 01. then itll be driving it till I finish some other projects.

  3. #63
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    Been super busy on this as the more work I do on it and the more finished it gets for this stage of work, the more and more fun it is to drive and the better the car sounds, feels and handles.

    Raised up the front tonight and checked on the squeek. Reclocked the timing for the steering wheel to the rack and pinion input shaft so that when I take it to align later this week they dont use the tie rods to straight the wheel out and have the rack wayyyy off center. Also replaced the NSS with the known good switch off the '02. Installed the front jdm spats as well and did the first full tank fill up on the car.


    Source of the scatching sound that I noticed after putting the rear end in. I couldnt hear it before over the ps noise, the rear wheel bearing whine and the heat sheild rattle. Lucky the scratch is just on the surface and the dust shield took most of the wear. bent the dust shield back to where it should be and the sound was gone when turning the front wheels by hand. the other rattle i had was the muffler in the rear being off one of the hangers and twisting the midpipe into the heat shields. I think when backing out of my driveway it knocked the hanger loose as the tip contacts the street if i dont come at an angle.



    Installing the front spats was not as smooth as the rears. While the rear bumper for already had holes in the bumper in the correct locations for all the supplied j-fasteners and clips in the JDM kit. The front did not have the back too holes for holding the nutserts shown on the diagram on the sheet shown here. I installed the front J clip, added some additional 3m tape on the inside bottom where the fastners go. once it was all installed I drilled the side sill tirm with a 1/8th bit and used the supplied screws to just screw right to the sill tirm to hold the spat on the inside. One thing i dont usually see since everyone gets these second hand is they reuse the clip on the front fender well to hold the spat down. the JDM ones use a j clip and a metric fastener with washer to hold the spat/sill/fender all togeher. this gets nice and snug and keeps there from being any big gaps.



    Missing square holes for plastic nutserts on the USDM side sills. under this tab is where I added additional trim tape.


    Picture of post install of the sill and fasnteners



    And because gas station lighting just hits hard and I just looks so damn good now I had to take pictures.




  4. #64
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    So spent a fair amount of time calling and driving around to all the alignment shops in what I consider a reasonable distance from my house to get an alignement apointment. I got a combination of our lift isnt low enough, to we dont touch after market suspension parts or we dont touch lowered cars. found one shop that had an infloor but there booked out for a while. So resorted to a method i havent used since high school. strings on a stick with jack stands, a steel ruler, a straight edge, ratchet straps and a digital angle gauge. Set the camber to 1.5° in the front and 1.6° in the rear, initially had around 1/2" of toe out on both the front and the rear with a thrust angle towards the passangers side. got the toe set to an 1/8" toe in total so 1/16" per wheel and my patience wore out before i could get it any tighter. i also tried to center the steering wheel and overshot the take up on the tie rods. But again my patience wore out before i could get it centered 100%.



    Also found the source of the recurring passanger foot well rattle, muffler hanger keeps working its way off the hanger shown here. the aftermarket hanger dowesnt have a mushroom on it to keep it secured. ill have to get that fixed, as its a minor nucance to have to put back on.


    Well I got the car aligned and driving, its not twitchy, its nice and balanced and has amazing turn in and stays flat as can be. spring rates i picked are a tad bit agressive on the freeway, the car feels like a roller coaster on the bucks and heves of the highway. but its crazy how responsive this chassis is when its spruced up. I had to go into my office and one of the great canyon runs is 20 min away so instead of sitting in traffic I decided why not go over and run it. Saw a handfull of supercars, a ton of civis and a few MR-2's on the way up. was late enough in the day i didnt have anyone to chase down the hill and just enjoyed the drive. was the perfect timing to stop for some pictures too as all the pull outs were empty. in the words me and my friend say..... Canyons Canyons Canyons.


    Last edited by xrayspecs; 01-08-2022 at 09:07 PM.

  5. #65
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    Two more checklist items that are small nucesnces to me got the parts in to address. Throttle body gasket and pump orings.


    The power steering pump still has a whine when cold and on turn in loads. The reservoir is also foaming quite a bit. As all the soft lines were changed to new on the systems, and the pump I installed measured in spec for shaft play. It was relativley quick to get the pump suction snout off and the orings off. They were so crispy they just broke the moment I put an oring removal tool on them. If you have a cold start power steering pump whine I would start with these orings, they were $4.31 from the dealer p/n 34439AE00A.

    New orings went right on and in, no more power steering pump whine now. glad that it is fixed and didnt need to get another pump to swap.


    Next onto the throttle body swap. The ECU doenst like the throttle body and idle air control valve from the 02. and contines to throw idle error codes. Looking at the harnesses and the digrams I was hoping that he two engine connector plugs wouldnt be loomed togehter, but they are.

    Wiring loom from the 01 engine in the garage off.


    Some of the differences between 02 to 01 on the air cleaner box, the PCV system routing pieces.
    The 01 has a sensor on the box, and an additional molded spot for the PCV lines.

    PCV y splitter for the extra PCV line on the air box

    The 02 doenst have them.


    Both wiring looms out.


    Kept the 02 throttle body on till everything was ready to go, so the coolant lines dont drip everywhere in the engine bay.


    Close up you see the difference in the throttle bodys.


    The 02 throttle body the ECU didnt like.


    The 01 throttle body so the EUC will be happy and the car will stop running rich/rough/idleing high.


    The only connector that ill have to swap is the power steering pump pressure switch plug, the 01 has a 2 pin connector the plug connector from the 02 has a single pin connector. No codes are being thrown so not to worried about this connector for now.


    Took the better part of a day to swap the engine harness but now the car idles as it should at 750ish, doesnt studder or die when cold started. It also doesnt smell like its running super rich. This should improve the MPG ive been seeing too.


    Left on the check list for things to do are all minor items now.
    roll fenders so the 235's will fit with out rubbing
    Swap the head unit from the 02 over so i have an actual AUX input might upgrade to a airplay unit in the future.
    make new wink mirror brackets and install the 5 panel wink mirror.
    put together a forsale thread for all the spares I dont plan to keep.
    Last edited by xrayspecs; 01-17-2022 at 05:21 PM.

  6. #66
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    More of just driving this old car. Currently waiting a date to get the fenders rolled. Continually impressed with how well it handles.

    Drove the 243 and 74. Cars driving flawlessly now with the correct throttle body.




  7. #67
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    More small updates, took the car to get smoged for reg, after pulling the car in the smog guy had 100 questions on the car cause of how stiff it is. Car passed smog no problem.


    After some looking around online, and seeing most of the decent sub 1k carplay head units were currently sold out or backordered. Decided to pull the older Pioneer head unit out of the 02 and put it in the 01. It was neat to have the OEM unit, but I need to have an Aux input for long commutes.

    OEM double Din unit.


    Pioneer unit pulled out of the 02.


    Removing the shifter bezel and trim, found some missing clips.



    To the 02 in the garage to pull off the missing clips.



    Shifter rubber seal properly held down again.


    Bezzle trim clips added back.


    New old head unit installed and ready to go. The speakers sound way better with this unit that the oem unit, at somepoint ill upgrade to carplay, and get sone nice aftermarket speakers and sub/amp.
    .

    Have an appointment coming up with someone to roll the fenders all around so thatll be the next big work.

  8. #68
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    Well gotten about 700 miles in the car now as set up, I really like the spring rates, and konis together and all the polymer isnt so noisey it bugs me. I did get the roof rack off. The previous owner didnt have the keys for the roof rack so had to pick the locks to get them off.

    Nothing like a small dyi pickset for the locks.



    The soft feet on the roof rack have started to get gummy and sticky. If i put the rack back on they will have to be replaced as they are coming apart. they left a ton of residue on the paint. Havent gotten it all off but theres probably some damage to the paint from the bases. The moonroof deflector also has left some paint damage where the seal is up against the paint.




    Car looks much more put together with no rack or deflector. Car needs a deep clean and a wax now for the paint.


  9. #69
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    As the original first posting is now out of date since now that I have a whole new car the 2001 Legacy GT-Limited. Its time to put together a new build parts list as not everything was moved over or reused between cars and milage


    Purchased the 01 GT Limited sedan in October of 2021, its in great shape outside and in. Car had a non running engine, that I later found out had dropped 2 valves on cyl 4 and broke the rocker arm on cly 3. Cly 1 and 2 the cam was galled up. Took almost everything off my 02 from the previous posts and installed the parts onto the 01.

    2001 Legacy GT-L Build sheet as of 04/05/2022.

    I keep a detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything I have installed and added into a list here and the milage it was installed at, milage all updated to reflect the 01 odometer readings. Previous car milage added as a note if the parts had use on them already.

    Chassis/Suspension:
    Subframes/front and rear from 2002 moved to 2001 as complete units.
    Timken Rear unit wheel bearings (p/n 512183 ) previous milage 28k installed at 183k miles.
    Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.
    Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.
    Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.
    Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.
    SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.
    Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.
    Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) at 183k
    Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) at 183k
    Subaru OEM power steering pump from 2001 engine (p/n )
    Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) at 183k
    Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) at 183k
    Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) at 183k
    Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) at 183k
    Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776 ) at 183k
    Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) at 183k
    Derale high temperature hose 11/32” x 25” to get cooler in front of radiator (p/n 259-13007 ) at 183k
    Subaru power steering pump suction o-rings (p/n 34439AE00A ) at 183K
    Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) at 183k
    Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) at 183k
    Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) at 183k
    Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) at 183k
    Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) at 183k
    Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) at 183k
    Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) at 183k
    Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) at 183k
    Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) at 183k
    ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) at 183K

    Koni Yellows assembly part numbers below all installed at 183K:
    Front Struts.
    Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT
    OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts.
    Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924
    Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007
    Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
    Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100
    Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250
    Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450
    Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147
    Rear Shocks
    Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT
    Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007
    Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1
    Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
    Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400
    Whiteline 20mm sway bar X-Heavy (p/n WLBSR12XZ ) at unk came with car.
    Whiteline 20mm sway bar heavy duty (p/n WLBSF14 ) at unk came with car.
    Kartboy solid sway bar end links front and rear(p/n KB-017-Front KB-017-STi-R) at 185K.
    Vorshlag 17mm hex lugnuts (p/n 12mm Hex M12-1.25) at 185k.

    Engine:
    Rebuilt heads and short block pervious milage 52k installed at 183k miles.
    Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.
    PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.
    Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.
    OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) pervious milage 35k installed at 183k miles.
    Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header (p/n MS95088 ) pervious milage 24k installed at 183k miles.
    Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.
    Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.
    Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) at 183k
    Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.
    Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.
    Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.
    NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.
    Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.
    Timsert M8X1.25 Thread repair for power steering pump threads on block (p/n 1812 ) at 183k miles.
    Subaru OEM intake filter (p/n 16546AA07A) at 183k miles.
    Mahle throttle body gasket (p/n G31760 ) at 183k miles.
    Felpro manifold gaskets and replacement 2 hole gaskets (p/n MS95088) at 183k miles.
    Prestone premix 50/50 fluid for replacement at 183k miles.
    Subaru OEM V belt AC 18x6x887 (p/n 809218260 ) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM AC Belt (p/n 73323AC000) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM timing belt large cover (p/n 13570AA12B) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM timing belt left side back cover (p/n 13575AA12A ) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM timing crankshaft sprocket (p/n 13021AA17A ) at unk came with car.
    Magnaflow muffler with 2.25” catback (p/n 14829 ) at unk came with car.
    Kartboy battery tiedown (p/n KB-100-BT) at 185k


    Drivetrain:
    Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.
    Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles
    Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles
    Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles
    Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles
    Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urethane (p/n 9563 ) at 183k
    Subaru Remanufactured OEM Axles (p/n 42072PA010) at unk came with car.


    Brakes:
    Subaru OEM rear brake disk (p/n HML020916 ) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM rear brake pad (p/n 26700AE04C ) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM front brake pad kit (p/n 26296AE220 ) at unk came with car.
    Subaru OEM front disc rotor (p/n 26300AE00C ) at unk came with car.

    Interior:
    Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) at 183k
    Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles
    Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles

    Exterior:
    DRL’s disabled from use at 183k
    Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Super tones pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles
    JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, for fenders, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails at 183k
    Subaru OEM REV D aero rain guards with OEM mounting hardware not 100% on the part number as the installation instructions list the following, and I can’t read the instructions (p/n J1017AE151## J1017AE152## J1017AE153## J1017AE154## J1017AE174## J1017AE155## J1017AE175## J1017AE156## J1017AE176## ) 183K
    Subaru OEM Under splash cover (p/n SOA966H1100R1 ) at unk came with car.
    Replacement Windshield (p/n 56410AW06A ) at unk came with car.
    Replacement windshield molding (p/n FW02154GTNN ) at unk came with car.
    All four coners fenders shaved and rolled at 185k.
    Sylvania high beam bulbs (p/n H1ST.BP2 H1 ) at 185k.
    Philips low beam bulb HID/Xeon bulbs (p/n D2R ) at 185k.
    HELLA fog light bulb (p/n H3 YL ) at 185k.
    License plate frame Matte black parts store special(p/n UNK) at 185k.

    Wheels/Tires:
    Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 5x100pcd
    VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17 at 185k.
    Fast WRX Mach 5 wheel spacer 5mm thick in the rear (p/n Mach V) at 185k
    Halex 2 in knock-out seal for center cap (p/n 60720 ) at 185K

    Last edited by xrayspecs; 05-03-2022 at 10:53 AM. Reason: updated for new parts as of 3/23/22

  10. #70
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  11. #71
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    Thanks, its been a labor of love for way to long, but it drives exactly how I had hoped it would.

    - - - Updated - - -

    No major updates on the car lately, been short staffed at work so I havent been able to take an afternoon to keep a appointment to have the fenders rolled... but more commuting i do the more i like how ive set the car up. needs some better brakes..

    Im still loving how the car sits and looks for the most part!


    Also picked up some bug/tar remover for the gummy silicon stuck to the roof from the melted roof rack pads. This stuff worked great.


  12. #72
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    More updates!

    After getting a dozen tanks of gas though this and the roofrack and moonroof deflector off, managing to get an average of 23 MPG combined. not as good as the 02, but ill chalk that up to the 4.11's. would be nice to have the 3.90's on the freeway, but withough finding another OEM LSD or buying an aftermarket unit to put in the open 3.90 its not worth the effort right now.


    Took some degreaser to the underside of the hood and engine bay to get any spots I missed or touched when putting the car together.

    Before.



    After, still not perfect but much improved.


    Big news thought! finally got the car rolled, front and rear! Went on a recomendation from some local car people I know. the guy was great to work with. Talking with him while he worked he thought it was cool to see this car as not a lot of them are around. He did say that with a little camber and work the chassis could fir 265's on 17x9's... but that would require a really agressive offset, and a pull on the front fenders.


    But now I can run my 235's with no wory of shreadding them or the fenders! Car is looking so much better to me now!





    The fit on the front is perfect, I'm thinking a 5mm spacer in the rear will bring it out to where Its flush as well.

  13. #73
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    I feel you with the 4.11 / 3.90's and getting all the crud off of the underside of the hood is a PITA! no matter what color the hood is!
    Legacys are like potato chips-You can't stop at just one!

  14. #74
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    Gas prices keep it up, ill be buying a LSD to put in the car with the 3.90 stuff on my garage floor! the hood underside was stuck on, took the better part of a quart of degreeser to get it to the state its in now!

  15. #75
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    So more small parts came in this week and have slowly put them on as time permits.. i have updated the parts list accordingly. These will probably be the last parts added for a while, the time has come to enjoy this car!

    The rear wheel needed to come out a bit more so that it looked less tucked, this has always been a problem with these cars, people all handle it differently, but I added some 5mm spacers to the rear to get a more aggressive fitment of the rpf1. Went with
    Fastwrx Mach v spacers, little disappointed with them as the description and pictures show they have a laser engraved part number, and thickness on the spacer so you dont have to measure them if you forget what they are in the future. these ones only had the bcd, and it was just silkskreened. they fit fine and work as intended.



    Before rear wheel.



    After with 5mm spacers on a 17x8+45 RPF1. probably could do another 3mm to get a tighter to the fender, but im happy as is for now.



    I also picked up some center caps for the RPF1's.... well did the 2" electrical knockout plugs from the hardware store. they fit great, and dont missmatch tobad with no paint. Ill have to make some decals on my cricuit for them so they match better.


    installed on the RPF1's you do need to spread the ears out a tad to get them to stay tight.


    Also picked up some Vorshlag subaru lug nuts, the oem ones I've been using are getting a little worn out and the cheap aftermarket ones that came on the car were crunchy at best.


    Also picked up some kartboy parts for the sway bars and to replace the rusty battery strap. they even came with the fireball!



    Installed battery strap.


    Comparison of the rear sway links vs the kartboy links.


    Rear links installed.


    Had some help moving the car around!

  16. #76
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    Didnt get to the front sway bar links till last night, all 4 of the links in the kit from kartboy take a larger 17mm bolt top and bottom the backs went on no problem. The front lowers on the stamped arms takes a 12mm bolt. This required drilling out the arms to 7/16" to clear the shank on the larger fastener, and a little massaging to open up the location to fit the wider bushing on the kartboy's.

    Size difference on the oem fronts vs the kartboy.



    drilling out the lower link bolt location


    How much the swaybar location needs to be massaged.


    Installed with the kartboy front endlink spacers on against the bar to keep the link perpendicular to ground.


    Took the car on a quick rip around the industrial park by my house, the cross chassis stiffness these add is definattly noticable especially when going through rain gutters while turning.

  17. #77
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    Well, some bad news today, had the day off, and decided to catch up on some maintance on my Honda. Had some time left and decided since I don't have reciepts or any idea when the fluids for the gearbox and diff were last serviced that I should do them. As ive now got 1400 miles on the car. When I first got the car driving, the gear box did not like to go into 1st or reverse, especially when cold and just started. Engine was also due for a oil change, and filter. No suprises there.

    As this was a full oils change, put the whole car up on stands level.


    Where the bad news starts. I pulled the drain plug for the Trans.


    Well there's the cuplrit of the stubborness to go into gear. odd as theres been no whining/popping out of gear or other hiccups.

    Well its still not great as this came from somewhere. After the state of all the other mechanical items I receieved the car in I guess that I should have checked the transmission and diff. Thats on me for not being more stringent after the blown motor in the car.


    Man the smell of burnt and old 90w makes my spine shiver. Who knows how many miles this has on it, it was about the viscosity of old motor oil. I filled it back up with new 80w-90w to the fill line.... I guess time will tell if the transmission will stay together.


    Lucky the rear diff seams to be in better shape. Thats good news if I have to use the 3.9 transmission out of the 02 I can swap the VLSD center over.

    N

    Not perfect, and probably over due for a change, but not terrible for a rear end with 186k on it.


    After fill up took it for a quick 20 mile drive and everything seams to be okay. Not sure where the chunks came from, but im sure ill find out soon enough.
    Last edited by xrayspecs; 04-17-2022 at 10:48 AM.

  18. #78
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    Finally got some more free time to installing some more parts that I've been sitting on for a while.

    Bought all new bulbs for the jdm parts as no clue how old the bulbs are for the headlamps/fogs and dont want them just randomly going out or dimming on me.

    Hella Yellow H3 bulbs for the Fogs, These were a pain to install as the whole assembly is behind stuff I didnt want to remove...


    Installed them throught the fog shroud trim.



    Night shot against my garage door, so far like how they look at night.


    This is the first time I've had HID headlamps in anything. These were way expensive. Went with the Pillips Units. replaced the Highbeams with Silvania h1's nothing crazy there.


    New bulb on the left old bulb on the right, both old bulbs had signs of age on them when they came out.


    Night shot against the garage door, note the cut off being in the incorrect direction. at some point ill bake the lights and black out the cut off so I dont blind oncoming traffic, but not today.


    Also got some cheap matte black plate frames, matches the black trim and car.


    Look pretty good on the car.


    Front plate is a bit off... thanks too the JDM from plate spacing for nuts is
    wider. Plate frame helps hid the obvious fact that I had to redrill the front to make it fit. I plan to get vanity plates this summer, and when they come in ill make a bracket so that I dont have to do this to that plate.


  19. #79
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    Well last of the parts from the 02 made its way over. finished up making brackets for the 5 panel wink mirror to replace the sun shades and the factory flip mirror.

    The old brackets i made the first go around I didnt like how they looked and didnt push the mirror far enough forward. little CAD (cardboard) and started here with some scrap alum I had.


    All cleaned up. I dont have a wire wheel on had so flapper disk on the ol death wheel to clean them up.


    All the nessisary hardware. added some small spacers to the backside so i dont mark the headliner where the bracket mounts up.


    Removed the sun shades, as this was the very top of the line for '01 it had dual lighted vanity mirrors! the pinicle of luxury. tucked the harness away into the shell... hope if I have to i can pull that back out someday.




    Installed, need to still adjust the mirror fully a bit so I can see the drivers side lane from it but has a great view of everything else.

  20. #80
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    Its been a while, not major updates really to the car.

    Have a few parts in the garage that will eventually go on the car when I get the motivation.

    Transmission still doesnt like to shift from 2-3 or 4-3 while on it hard in the canyons so that will eventually get changed to the spare.

    But still taking it out as much as I can. Azusa Canyon and other mountain pass runs this summer after work were plentiful. Just now coming up on a much needed fluids change at 3k miles.







    Went to the Eibach Import night they hosted back in August. Also attended a few other local cars n coffee events. Car gets thumbs up's but never draws a crowd which I don't mind at all.

    [/url]

    For a old car still cleans up pretty damn well.





    Had a random issue with a misfire for a bit, found the cause... replaced the plug wire and coil pack, need to go around and check all the grounds.



    Also need to finish stripping this thing for all the space so its not just taking up space. Lots of stuff that needs to get removed and put up in the attic.

    Last edited by xrayspecs; 01-03-2023 at 10:47 PM.

  21. #81
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    Dude....great build thread. Love the attention to detail.

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  22. #82
    update pls....

  23. #83
    "FNG"
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    Not much to update driven it about 4k miles the last year. I just drive it on sundays now and then since i have a truck for work.

    Ive got a STI 5mt Short throw shift kit for it sitting on my work bench, and have been parting down my green 02 for spares and will probably rebuild the transmission for a spare as thisone is got bearing whine when its cold started.

    Right now i need to make a pick a part trip for a OEM intake snorkus, since the SMOG guy flagged the damn PVC intake as non-compliant.

    Not much in the way of pictures for now. when it stops raining ill probably do the shift kit and update with pictures.

  24. #84
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    Thank you for posting. Appreciate having activity in the community.
    2010 Red Impreza 2.5i hatchback - SOLD
    (Still driving a Subaru now, though)

  25. #85
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    Small update, been collecting other parts for some major work in the summer here when i get my whole garage back.

    Changed all the gear oil at the 3k mile oil change, diff oil and magnet cleared up, however the transmission still has flakes and chunkies in the oil, meaning the spare transmission I have will probably have to go in sooner rather than later. Cold morning starts I can hear the input shaft bearing whinning as well... this transmission is need of some major TLC.



    Transmission plug and clean off. Due to the flakes of metal stuck to it that look like bearing race hard facing, ill probably change the gear oil again next oil change interval.




    Diff looked much better so will probably just let it go normal change interval.



    Had a fun little sidewall puncture and blow out from ruts on the freeway here in LA that pop up in the rain, that was a fun day. lucky nothing else was damaged from the rut.




    Also found out due to the massive amount of rain we got this winter that California got that the front drip lines were plugged and flodding back through the ac air inlet into the cab, as well as the condensor drain line being plugged up. Should have known since the moonroof lines were also plugged when I got the car. Used compressed air to blow it out, but i really should take the cowl and fenders off to clean out all the gunk thats in there.



    The great state of California sent me notice that for reg renewal that I would need to get smog again. Took the car into smog only to have the tech tell me the pvc intake tube I kept on the car was a "modified airbox". Took the oportunity to make a few junkyard tips to get the OE intake snorkle parts as I no longer had them from the 02 Chasis.

    the best is when the cars are in the stall they actully listed them in online.



    Found what I was looking for, lucky to find a early equipment non rubber boot intake hose which is awesome cause I won't have to worry about it rotting out.





    Precleanup.



    All cleaned up and installed. OEM intake. crazy how much quiter inside the car it is with the factory parts for the intake. Im going to leave them on for a few tanks and see if they make any change to the milage I get with the car.



    Car wiating on me to get the motivation for the parts that have been piling up on my workbench.




  26. #86
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    Small update, been to busy with work and life to do any big parts installs lately.

    But got a complete set of JDM tails and garnish in really good shape!



    USDM OEM Tails.


    Differenece in the color between the tails.



    All installed, Legacy garnish complete, just need to find a really good condition front OEM option lip for the bumper and the outside will be done.


  27. #87
    "FNG"
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    Well almost a year later, its just been on weekend driver duty, hit the mountain roads and other drives as I can. This winter project was the garage, I wanted the space back and to add insulation as well as HVAC to the garage space.

    The Green '02 was made rollable, all the spares I figured I'd need were stripped (transmission, diff, misc. interior parts) and stored. Then contacted LKQ to come pick up what was left to take to the pick a part.



    Away it goes forever.



    Also had the first big road trip in the 01 since putting it together. Weekend trip with my son for a travel hockey tournament, nice long drive to San Jose and back from LA. Had to do something about the exhaust though, the exhaust shop mid pipe with no resonator and the small Magnaflow drone excessively between 3-5k on the highway and I was not going to tolerate it for 7 hours one way let alone two. One of the spares I held onto was the OEM mid pipe and muffler. Also found that the exhaust had been leaking for a bit so timing worked out.





    After looking at the mid pipes side by side it looked like the oem would bolt right up with the magnaflow muffler and it did so went with that combination. Can confirm after the drive, no highway drone between 60-90 mph and still keeps some exhaust sound around for the car, I think long term I'm going to fab a new mid pipe up a diameter with a resonator in the same location as oem so get a little more sound and no cabin drone. Also took the same time to rotate tires and an oil change.



    Also had one fog lamp burn out so replaced them with some high outputs for the drive because you don't road trip with lamps out and was easy to get to with the car in the air.



    Also noticed the tires starting to get a little camber wear during rotation, running 2.5 deg of camber all the way around on the street is a bit spirited, so took it for an alignment and got it dialed in at 1.5 front/rear with neutral toe.


  28. #88
    "FNG"
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    The car did great all the way up and back to San Jose. Just set the cruise at 80 and ticked the miles off. Car cruised along great and stayed cool running and inside with the AC running despite it being 90 deg through most of the trip through central valley. Only complaint was the lack of power from rolling from 70 too try and overtake traffic on the long 5% uphill grades, who knows maybe ill start getting parts together for a turbo swap, the BAR requirements here will make it a bit of pain in the ass.

    Stopped to stretch our legs at San Luis Reservoir walked down to see the stinky water and take a break from the interstate.



    We had a afternoon free to ourselves so decided to drive over to the Red Woods in Santa Cruz and took the scenic root from San Jose. Took a few hours round trip and hit the twisty roads for the better part of 2 hours. Started at Mt Eden Road and connected it to Stevens Canyon Road. We stopped at a pull out to look at a small water fall and take in the scenery.





    From there connected it to SR 9 and drove it to Sempervirens Point Parking place to walk around. There was a bunch of other cars parked in the area. but didn't bother to look or interact as rather take in the view.



    Anyways kept on going down the 9 to big basin and the Redwood Grove by Boulder Creek, finished up turning around on the 9 and cutting across Bear Creek Road to Skyline Boulevard then back to San Jose. This was some great driving spent a solid hour or two walking around the Red Woods, will have to go back to the area and camp in the area as it was more to take in than I could in a few hours in the afternoon.

    Subaru Legacy on the Forest Moon of Endor.






  29. #89
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    That's a sharp-looking ride you've got, and it damn well oughtta be, after all the work you've put into it. Truly astounding.
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  30. #90
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    Thanks, it took me long enough to get it there. shes showing her age though and could use a respray but not till i get another car will that happen.

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