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Thread: XRAYSPECS - 2002 - BE - L - Upgrade Everything

  1. #1

    XRAYSPECS - 2002 - BE - L - Upgrade Everything

    El Chupacabra, X-Ray's 2002 L Sedan 5MT


    So, way long time lurker and Subaru owner, another forum member talked me into actually sitting down and starting a build log for my Legacy. so this will be a big slug for all thats gone on with the car since I got it.

    I have had my 02 L sedan since early 2014, got it in the below condition, it was a bit rough around the edges but the base was solid and didn't have any rot. Most important though was it was a Manual!!!!! it's been a slow build over the last few years and hope to keep it going. Plus had a Rebuild short block in it

    EDIT, TLDR build sheet on my Legacy as of 10/2/2020

    This will be a post dump to start to get everything up to date.

    I keep a pretty detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything into a list here and the milage it was installed at:

    Timken Rear unit bearings (p/n 512183) replaced at 186K
    Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715) 192k
    Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105) 192k
    Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404) 192k
    Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709) 192K
    Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515) 192k
    Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202) 192k
    OEM alignment specs at 193k
    Cusco Racing front strut tower brace (p/n 680 540 A) 193k
    Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A)193k
    Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008) at 206k
    Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176) at 206k
    SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032) at 206k
    Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504) at 206k
    Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121)
    Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30)
    SKP new equipment power steering pump (p/n sk215254)
    Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599)
    Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638)
    Sunsong soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725)
    Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363)
    Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776)
    Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212)
    Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124)
    Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307)
    Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397)
    Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396)
    Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394)
    Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398)
    Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906)
    Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417)
    Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905)

    Interstate Green Top MT-35. At 160k then again at 192.5k
    Rebuilt heads and short block at 160k
    NGK spark plugs (p/n 6953) at 169k
    Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577) at 169k
    PCV Valve replaced with OEM unit (p/n 1181080W00) 173k
    PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS 173k
    OEM Idle Air Control Valve (p/n 22650AA192, INTERMOTOR AC519) 173k
    Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R) 174k
    OEM Bosch Upstream O2 Sensor (p/n 17018) 174k
    OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240) 179k
    WIX Air filter (p/n 42728) 179k
    Borla (p/n 17183) SS UEL header with Felpro MLM exhaust manifold gasket (p/n MS95088) and OEM steel gasket at cat (p/n 224 49010 333) 190k
    NTK downstream O2 sensor (p/n 24598) 192.5k
    Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B) 192.5k
    STP Air filter replacement (p/n SA9113) at 193k
    IMC exhaust flange gasket (p/n 224 4901 333) at 193k
    Felpro exhaust manifold gasket (p/n MS95088) at 193k
    Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL) at 193k
    Fel-Pro exhaust gasket, (p/n 9827) at 193K
    Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558) at 196.5K
    After accident replaced the following parts:
    Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495, 22494, 19535) at 197.9k
    Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457) 197.9k
    Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233) all replaced at 197.9K
    NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11) at 205.7K
    Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T) at 205.8K

    Front CV axles, chinese remans Suretrak (p/n SB-8011) at 192k
    JDM Impreza 5MT transmission (p/n 71-TY754VU2AA) (from a 98-99) with 3.90 FD, installed at 192.5K
    Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004) 192.5k
    Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk 192.5k
    Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear), (p/n KB-003), 5MT Shifter bushings 192.5 k
    Kartboy (p/n KB-025) Transmission mount bushings 192.5k
    Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170) Installed at 196.5
    Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urathane (p/n 9563)

    Duralast oem replacements square at 188k
    LPS turned rotors at 188k

    LED replacement dome light bulb installed at 165k
    OEM WIX cabin filters replaced (p/n 72880AE080) at 179k
    Driver's side exterior handle latch rod retaining clip replaced (oem unit) at 188k
    Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD) at 190k
    Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080) at 193k
    Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan at 195k
    OEM fog light switch (p/n 1S7942) at 195K
    Standard Relay for fogs (p/n RY612) at 195K
    Wink 5 panel mirror. (p/n) at 206K

    LED bulbs, brake, front and rear turn signal, reverse, license plate, and front running lights installed at 165k
    DRL’s disabled from use at 179k
    Exterior stripped to metal and repainted in OEM paint code (83N, Subaru Timberline Green Mica Pearl Metallic) base coated in two part Diamont sealer and sprayed in Matrix Systems base-coat clear coat 193k
    Mirrors and grill painted SEM Trim black (p/n 39143) at 194k
    Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801) Supertones at 194k
    1/2" Hood Spacer and longer M8 fasteners, custom at 195k

    Enkei RPF1 17x8 5x100 +45. Put on at 197.5k
    235/45R17 Continental ExtremeContact DW tires (these rub on full bump in the front, will probably roll the fenders to get rid of that.)

    2014-03-30 12.43.12

    2014-03-30 12.43.06-1

    2014-03-30 12.43.31

    2014-04-12 18.05.05

    Previous owner at some point in its life it was resprayed on the top coat and had a terrible case of lacquer cracking everywhere but the jams and trunk underside.

    first thing done was a oil change, air filter and fluids check.

    you can see the massive lacquer cracking in the bottom of this picture. also +5 hp for stickers.

    2014-04-12 18.04.18

    It ran good for the next 10,000 miles then the ignition system and the random miss it started up, as you've gotta have fuel, spark and air to run and i had plenty of fuel pressure per the OBD scanner and id put a good filter in that it had to be the spark plugs. New spark plugs wires on the way!
    From the local go fast parts store, (not being sarcastic Covina still has a small mom&pops parts store) i got new oem plugs, plug wires and a Felpro valve cover gaskets. I figured if the motor was freshly rebuilt and had reached its 5k break-in point the valves better be lashed. I get it apart and wouldnt you know it the plugs are cracked.... hmmm not so sure on that rebuid quality, they were cracked after what i was told was only 6k on the engine. got the thing back together and it ran like a top for two months then IACV also decided at 173k that it was over tired and working anymore so it got replaced with an oem on.
    Also spent some time after chasing a vacuum leak on the PCV system and the PCV Valve sticking open. Swapped those out around this time too.

    2014-10-27 08.43.38

    2014-10-26 16.14.08

    2014-10-26 16.02.52

    and it ran great, and all was good till i got backed into in the market parking lot....

    Had a guy back up into me, because he wasn't checking his mirrors, and wrinkle the rear drivers side quarter panel. oh well just cosmetic.



    Also around 180k the front O2 sensor decided that it no longer wanted to be apart of the band and stopped reporting the right signals. It was CHRISPY! got replaced with a OEM Bosch unit.

    2015-05-13 18.11.36

    It also developed a HOT engine miss…. Must be the coil pack, replaced that with a new OEM unit and at the same time put a cabin filter in the dash and disable the Daytime Run light as i was tired of it prematurely burning bulbs up.

    2015-09-19 15.27.29

    Looks like the previous owner never bothered to put a filter in or clean the trap….vacuumed it out and put a new filter in!

    2015-09-19 15.27.11

    It took a bit of research as the Legacy L isnt as posted on as the GT, but i found the wiring diagrams and found that for the L’s its the Blue and Black pin in the dash harness plug that powers the relay for them. I pulled the plug apart removed the pin from the connector, coffined it in electrical tape and put it all back together and no more DRL’s

    2015-09-19 15.58.10

    2015-09-19 16.04.57

    2015-09-19 16.05.52

    About a month later the plastic keeper that holds the door handle rod in place in the Driver side door decided that it was time to go, had to pull the door apart and change the little rod keeper, which for a 2$ piece is a major pain!

    2015-09-19 14.08.59

    Drove the car till 187k the rear wheel bearings were toast. Did both back ones with a little help! Replaced the whole units with Timken units, and boy it was like night and day with the car.

    2015-11-15 17.37.13

    to PT 2
    Last edited by xrayspecs; 10-07-2020 at 10:12 PM.

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    PT 2

    2015-11-15 17.37.26

    At 188k the brake pads started squealing, while I wanted to go with some street performance pads wasnt in the budget so replaced with like oem duracrap pads! Had the rotors turned by the LPS and drove it some more.

    Picked up a Borla UEL header for the 2.5L from another forum member on here for the price of a ebay knock off. The unit was still New in box! Never been run! Sweet. Now just need a cat back and it'll really sound good! Future plans still here. I did have to change to a 2.4 Miata filter on the car with these as one of the previous owners added the sandwich oil heat exchanger that goes between the filter and the engine block, this wasn't a factory option on the L’s as far as all my research has lead me to believe. I stick to 3.5k oil intervals so not worried about its dirt holding capacity.



    While doing the header swap noticed that i had torn boots on the inner CV’s….. Using the well ive got it apart might as well do it all approach i sprung for Moog Tie-rods, Beck Arnley ball joints, inner tie-rods. Whiteline LCA bushings, inner, outer and steering rack bushings. Also replaced the Front CV’s with the LPS recommended chines remain front axles…. I held on to the green oems just in case as they didnt require a core back… Replaced them all in a day, nothing like spending a sunday on the cardboard cursing at dirty bolts.

    2016-05-12 23.09.00

    2016-03-24 18.09.56

    2016-03-25 01.09.38

    2016-05-12 20.34.22


    In the middle of all this had my second kid, got laid off and the plans for the car slowed down.

    Had it aligned, and Boy does all new tight parts really perk these old BE’s right up. Had a lot of fun running the canyons here when i got a chance too.

    We went on a trip to visit the Grandparents and introduce the new offspring and it made the trip just fine.

    2016-05-26 14.46.20

    However when getting ready to leave there was a very loud bang and crunch. Well turns out these old 5mt’s occasionally like to spit the center diffs VC’s retaining ring out ouf its holder when they get up in mileage. And with my luck the 1:1 rear output gears decided it was a good plan to have that clip for lunch. And werew missing a few bits of teeth. After making a few calls and a lot of googling figured out that the cost of these gears and a new VC would be in the 600-800$ ballpark depending on how far down the rebuild rabbit hole i wanted to go. And it looked like at some point the transmission had water in it, the gear faces had rust spots.


    I figured oh i'll just get a pick-a-part unit and new rear main and slap that in, and drive away. As i’ve done numerous times with volkswagons, fords and chevys.
    Nope, joke was on me, turns out the L sedan i had was provided with a 3.90 Final drive. And short of getting a transmission and rear axle packaged together everything else was 4.44’s and 4.11’s. After a lot of calls and emails, i found a LKQ in fresno that had one 3.90 that showed it was pulled from a L, sweet, i ordered it, it ships and shows up, NOPE! The damn thing is out of a outback and has 4.44,s worst part was they dropped 80k miles off the listed miles. when i searched the vin# from the car it had been pulled from (it was listed on the pallet tag) i found a chased google page showing the car had well over 200K and had been auctioned for mechanical damage total. That took a whole week of phone calls and arguing with LKQ to get shipped back… they said they found another one but when it showed up it had a 4.44 as well. Back it went… lucky enough for me my grandparents have a large shop I was able to flat tow the car to and leave at while i searched for a new transmission.

    2016-06-08 14.15.41

    Ive also got my 51 Ford stored there till i have room to bring it home!.



    In the middle of this got lucky enough to get tickets to go see the filming of the Grand Tour in Apple Valley for there Los Angles episode! Got to meet all three of the Muppets! That was a hell of an experience.


    TWO jdm transmissions later… that had 4.11’s and 4.44’s i got a pulled one from a JDM 3.90 impreza from a LA importer.

    It was during this time my brother name the car El Chupacabra because of it being so damn rare to find parts for and it was all ugly from the paint and dents!

    Got a whole list of goodies for installation as well.
    Kartboy poly shifter bushings and trans mount bushings, new oem clutch hose, downstream NGK O2 sensor, Excedy OEM clutch kit and Mishimoto magnetic oil plug.

    Spent my 2017 newyears weekend paying tribute to the gods of speed and octane.




    Got it all back together, had it aligned and its been running great since.

    Also upgraded from the OEM tape deck to a double din Pioneer unit i had kicking around. Its old but sounds better than the tape deck did! I might have to spend some money on upgraded components!


    Also two years later finally had the rear quarter panel pulled all of the big dents fixed. Stripped the whole car to the metal as i didn't want it to lacquer crack again. Then had it two respraided in the factory Green Metallic, dam does it look good when its been polished. Went with Matrix Systems Base Clear. Its now just a 10mph-10ft car instead of a 50-50 car! Lol. Ill have to wash it and get some good photos with my DSLR since the light in winter in So-Cal is always so damn good.


    Last thing ive done recently is black out the front grill chrome and paint the mirrors trim black Good ol Sem 39143 Trim Black!


    Its been a lot of little things. I'll do my best to keep this thread updated with its progress as i have a lot of little things on it I still want to change.

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    part 3

    More Pictures of doing the clutch swap, you can see where the torn inner CV boots let the grease fling to, all over and since its normally a daily (aint about that show car clean life) I didn't bother trying to scrape it out of every crease. just wiped what i could off before putting everything back in.

    New Clutch and pressure plate and pilot bearing all going in.

    Kartboy poly shifter bushings going in, it was super stiff putting everything back together, really made me glad to be doing this with the transmission out as it would have been a lot of cursing at the car if id have tryed to do this on jack stands and around the transmission.


    picked up a new shift knob to replace the OEM one, I never liked the feel of it or the shape. the way it lumped and was asymmetric i would constantly scew/unscrew it while sitting in traffic. plus the lack of a jam nut always made it loose if i squared the H pattern up.
    I picked up an aftermarket Hurst Knob that was meant for a Toyota Truck. It fits perfectly and brings some hot rod nostalgia to the cabin, not to mention has a jam nut.


    but damn i need a shift boot now. just gotta borrow a sewing machine!


    Picked up some parts from another user on here.


    Front strut tower brace and rear strut tower bar and radiator shroud piece, part numbers in the breakdown sheet at the top.
    Nothing like some extra spicy JDM goodness added to the car when you can.

    Started with the rear strut bar, was easy enough to put in, pulled all the items out of the trunk and then remove the four 14mm bolts in the chassis, put the plates in and then bolt the bar up.


    The rear trunk liner did require a trim to fit back in properly back in place.


    All back together, i know my floor mat is super greasy from hauling car parts around for ages.

    Next was installing the dress up piece, easy enough, two 10mm and two 13mm fasteners on the cross beam and radiator support out, piece installed and then repeat in reverse.
    I know my engine bay is dusty, she aint a show car.

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    Part 4.

    Last item was the front strut tower brace, this one took two tries as i wasnt paying attention and put the left brace on my left facing the car not the other way round, and had to do the left side twice.

    was quick enough to do, the plates and bar went right on after pulling the strut tower nuts off.

    After driving with it on a quick canyon run by where i live, not sure if i notice any major gains with the parts, but were quick enough to install in an hour.

    A quick beauty of her as she sits right now.


    since replacing the transmission, ive had a backfire in the exhaust. when i put the car back together i was lazy and reused the header to cat gasket, and also noticed that at some point along the cars life someone had welded new cats in and welded one of the flange bolts to the pipe. Cut and hammered the weld/bolt out, touched up the cut and mating surface of the flange with a hand file and put it back together. Runs great and no more backfiring, it should help with the bid dip in mpgs too i have seen since the swap.


    updated the horns from the OEM units to Supertones. Ive used supertones in the past on offroad trucks and buggies. they get the point across better than anything short of air horns.... which i might add anyways because LA.
    ignore my dirty car, its impossible to keep clean where i work. but they bolted right into place where the oem units were, since the factory uses a relay and fuse that can handle these just fine. I just made ground jumpers to ground the horns and used the factory hot lead for power. the drivers side went right on no problem and the bracket fit in the factory notches to locate the horn no problem, but to get the passengers side to fit without modifying the harness just takes flipping the Hella bracket to the other side from how they come then just bolting it on.

    i made some quick and dirty ground jumpers to go from the post to the mounting bolt as the oem ones ground through there frame/bracket.


    OEM units that were removed.

    after bracket flip and mounting them, bracket bolt is a 12mm.

    and my dirrrrrrty car with the supertones peeping through the grill now.


    Got some driving lights. My go big or go home attitude may have gotten the best of me as I thought there was room behind the grill to add these. Might make a rally bar or bumper mount them anyways.

    got tired of how the ram mounts look/work etc and switched to a Mob Armor mount, lot nicer package and goes right on the dash no more window sticky shit, plus now its easier to watch Dashcommand or GPS.




    Oil change and replacement filter, conventional 5-30wt and filter, i sould really do a relocator and front mount oil cooler with the borlas right up on the filter.

    Also started the installation of the fogs, ordered the dash switch and relay. just need to add the actual fogs.

    strut brace that I had installed, was having an interference issue with the hood, to the point I can see on the top side where its meeting.
    picture of the bottom of the hood where they hit.

    Cheap easy solution was a 1/2" piece of stock from scrap at work and 4 longer M8x1.25x30mm fasteners to stand the back of the hood off the hinges. these work for a rev 1, will have to make and trim up a second set that matches the hood hinge and isnt just strait bar stock.

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    Part 5

    I have been hording parts to rebuild the rear end with all polymer, should have everything to do that soon. so will have the whole rear sub-frame out and all rubber replaced, then the front and back set ups will match.
    Need to also get a steering rack as the unit in it has decided to start leaking out the passengers side that will get done soon.

    The starter did give up the ghost in January, so replaced the starter with an oem unit. Also while i had the starter out replaced the clutch slave cylinder soft line with a new oem unit and bleed the clutch and put in new dot 3 fluid. Since im also a im already doing this anyways type of person i replaced the fuel filter and hoses on while in the engine bay.

    I did however manage to pic up some Enkei RPF1's in 17x8 +45 with Continental extreme contacts in 235/45R17, there is a little rub on full bump.

    Well got one week out of the RPF1's, had someone cut me off in traffic and brake check me hard. was a 20ish mph rolling hit but still did a fair amount of damage to the hood/core supports/lights and crash beam. ill have to get it to a frame shop to see if its still strait or not and decide what to do.

    but i pulled the front end out, hood, core support and put the car on a frame jig *(checking and the chasis was still straight and undamaged)

    replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, and rad cap and got the hood mostly straight, and am driving it again.

    i need to replace most of front clip (hood, bumper, grill, and lights core support.) but the bumper core was unbent/touched. so on the look out for a JDM rev D front end.

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    Part 6

    Got a front clip like i was on the look out for.

    At the same time i replace the power steering system im going to be finally fixing the crash damage with a full front clip i have coming in. cant wait to have it all together and painted to match.

    The rack and pinion had been leaking a bit since before the fender bender. the leak finally killed the power steering pump when it got cold this winter. with everything going on finally have time to get all the parts together and tear into replacing the entire power steering system. Based on information from various forum threads on here and elsewhere i went ahead and got a +15MY steering rack to replace the OE unit. I also put in a while back a 5 panel wink mirror i made brackets to adapt to the OE visor mount point, I need to make another rev that has slots so i can get more adjustment on the mirror. I have always had these on my cars in the past and they kick ass for improving the rear visibility when driving.

    Wink mirror brackets made two like this.

    Mirror in place.

    Installing the +15MY steering rack is pretty straight forward.... cleaned under the hood first so wouldnt be so dirty to work on.

    You can see the failed seal on the passengers side that had been leaking since probably right after i completely rebuilt the front end a while back. it only recently got bad enough that it killed the pump. Went through the Simple Green cleaning this all up.

    pull the pump, hoses, belt and power steering pump.

    clean everything, and install the new power steering pump.

    Steering racks next to each other after removing the old and busted OEM unit.

    to get the newer steering rack to work with the OEM steering shaft you have to use the +15MY steering ujoint. the splines on the steering pinion are different than the ones on the 02 pinon so this piece has to be upgraded. i used Part number 34170VA30 from Subaru. ill get a picture of the new ujoint in place here shortly. the part number listed slides right onto the splines on the steering shaft with no problems.

    the other major item is you have to open up the subframe, the power steering rack wont clear on the driverside without doing this. its a bit of trial and error of test fitting till you've gotten enough out of the way. size of the hole I made

    the passengers side of the steering rack I reused the Whiteline bushing that i had installed on the previous rack ,and reused the OEM clamp and hardware.

    ***the other major item that i did address (didnt grab photos of the process) is you have to take about 1/2" of thread off of the inner tie rods on the +15MY STI rack. And about 3/8ths off the outter tie rods to get any toe in when you align the car, just cut and chase the threads. follow this guys instructions if you are going to do it yourself.

    *****NOTE the OEM BE outer tie rod ends, I installed previously part number ES3715 FIT onto the +15MY STI inner tie rods. in fact they look IDENTICAL dimensionaly to the ones that were on the steering rack assembly i purchased. I choose to reuse the MOOG units for three reasons, the wrench flat was in a different position (this lets me cut down the tie rod with no loss of the wrench flat area), they were still in great condition, and they have grease zerk fittings that allow me to service them every 10k or so.

    I Currently the rack is in the car, however i need to reclock my steering wheel and finish the hoses.

    The OEM power steering hoses fit onto the +15MY STI steering rack, see below for test fit before i started the installation, no need for any crazy custom hoses like i have seen on all the other installations of this steering rack.

    will let everyone know how it transforms the car after its all in and aligned.

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    Finally got around to getting the proper hardware for the longer fasteners needed on the drivers side.

    I had picked up low grade fasteners to test fit everything when installing, however I guessed wrong on the fastener lengths. so after test fitting and measuring I ordered some M10x1.25 in Class 12.9 fasteners (70mm/80mm length), washers and lock washers for that side, i also measured up the spacer and got a stand off for the step side of the steering rack that was needed.

    Steering rack installed clearance around the opened up steering rack.

    now that everything is installed and in its proper place found out the +15STi steering knuckle is too long for the BE/BH chassis. see the below for side by side. I thought there might be enough splines on the steering shaft that it wouldn't be an issue. But now that i have the correct length bolts that is not the case and the shaft will need to be shortened. Based on what I have measured ill need to make it about 1.5"~2" shorter to match the overall length of the shaft that was removed. Kinda stuck on this install till I get this shortened and welded up.

    The engine kept throwing a code for knock, took a spark plug replacement, and a new knock sensor. when I had pulled the old one off, it had a massive crack across the sensor, and testing bad with a multi-meter. All the LPS had in stock was one from a WRX, fit and has worked just fine.

    Also had the wheel bearings on the passenger side front start to howl really bad.
    replaced both front wheel bearings, seals, C-clips, lock nuts and the sound in the car decreased drastically.

    Slowly chipping away at this project, between work, house projects and family not had much time the last few weeks to finish it up and get the BE on the ground.

    Cut down and got the STI u-joint shaft to the correct length. right now need to get some time to TIG it back up.

    first cut of the OEM weld out

    Fit check on the rack and steering column.

    Installed the power steering cooler in front of the grill, and test fit all the hoses this location is temp with this front clip, when I swap the JDM front clip ill move the location and hoses to a permanent place and build a proper bracket for the cooler...

    - - - Updated - - -

    So got the Ujoint installed today, and took it around the block, with just an eyeball alignment HOLY COW is this steering rack an improvement! also with no more rag joint you really do feel more of the road through the steering wheel. so much for NVH!

    I'll have to get out the tape measure and align the car so I can drive it to the shop for a proper alignment soon.
    New shortened 15+ STI ujoint next to the original one with the rag joint.

    Ujoint installed finally, although I did mess the timing up on the shafts so I'll have to take it apart and fix that this weekend. no broken clock spring though which is good.

    took a 1/4" off each outer tire rod to get the needed ability to get some toe. both the tie rod outer and inner shafts have 1.75+/-.05 thread on them and I used a thinner jam nut to achieve toe in.

    Finally back on the ground.

    Not for long though! finally dug every part out of everywhere in the garage for the next project.

    slowly chipping away at my want to do list for this chassis.

    pulled out the ujoint and painted it with some black enamel paint as in my excitement to drive the car. I had skipped that step putting it all back together, waiting for the paint to dry also gave me some time to adjust the toe back to reasonable enough to get it to the alignment shop, and straighten out the steering as it was majorly misaligned.

    car is now in backwards for the next step, will be pulling the whole rear subframe off the car.

    Started on pulling the whole rear sub-frame. No rush on this since Ill have to get a press for a few of the bushings.

    first step, disconnect the exhaust, two 14mm nuts and bolts. I dont even try and take the axle back off as its so rusted (OEM) and just pull the whole mid pipe and it off together.

    disconnect the driveshaft from the diff.

    then the only things left holding the whole sub-frame in are the dampers, abs speed sensors, park brake cable and rear brake lines. Its been a while since I have flushed the brakes, so i just disconnected the hoses and will bleed the brakes later. I should probably get new soft lines anyways, since I'm already doing the work.

    PRO TIP, Put all your ebrake springs/clips/pieces in a baggie and write what side it goes on the baggie in sharpie. less looking for lost springs later

    to get to the subframe bolts disconnect the sway bar, it gets it out of the way.

    also, what 20 year old rubber bushings tend to do. can't wait to have them all replaced and not blown out.

    everything is loose, and ready to drop.

  8. #8
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    Sub-frame is out, so many crusty bushings, got all of the links loose and time to start putting the new urethane ones in. lots of PB blaster and cheater bars to get bolts and nuts that havent moved in almost 20 years loose. time to start planing adding shop air to my garage.

    Finished stripping the rear sub-frame of the links and hubs. My plan is to put new bushings in the sub-frame, then put the sub-frame back in, then add the diff back and build the suspension back into the car as i get the bushings into all the links. I really should upgrade the sway bar and shocks/springs.

    since I plan on installing the whiteline adjustable control arms, I am putting on the toe lock bolts in.

    Original OEM adjusters.

    The lock kit next to the oem eccentric bolt adjusters

    Temporally installed in the sub-frame till the arms go in.

    I haven't got a press in my home garage yet and my work shop is full up with work so cant exactly sneak a subframe in to press bushing in and out right now without getting in trouble. Resorted to how i've done it before in the past.

    started with the diff bushings as they were already 90% ripped.

    Start with cutting out all of the guts of the rubber you can out of the bushing.

    then you need to use a metal blade or high TPI bald for the next step. put the saw into the bushing and start cutting, you want to cut through the metal of only the bushing. you want to make 3~4 notches all on the same side about 1/2" from each other. use a chisel/punch and hammer to peal the bushing back where the notches are located at. take care not to gall the face on the subframe when doing this.

    the bushing should look like this once you start to get it pealed back, just keep beating it with a punch till it pops out.

    when done right, shouldnt take anymore time than using a press and the proper jigs.

    for my next trick press the bushings in with no press... but need to knock the rest of the subframe bushing out.

    Been busy with work lately, however managed to get some more of the diff bushings out.

    installed KTD905 Into the outrigger. Almost done cutting and chipping the stubborn subframe bushings all out so I can put the polymer ones in.

    Subframe Bushings out, after almost 20 years they really really really really didnt want to come out of the subframe without a fight. I have zero body rust, but the subrframe bushings had some on the bushing that was really keeping them in. They all pretty much look like this one once they came out.

    sub-frame all ready for the new Powerflex poly bushings.

    Bushings fit perfectly. cant wait to see how they transform the car along with all the other bushings.

    Rear most bushing on the trailing arms is out and working on getting the bushings out of the upper links.

  9. #9
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    The pile of old crusty blown out rubber

    the Powerflex bushings are a money fit, getting the old ones out by far took the most work.

    lower front bushings in place, follow the directions as they are different sizes and go in a certain way.

    Lower rear/outer bushings in, these also are different sizes and go in a certain way. the pin holes go vertical on both sides.

    just need to finish with the upper link and rear diff bushings itll be reassembly time.

    Finally found some time and a break in the 100+ days to get the rear diff bushings installed into the subframe. The finish on the KDT906 bushings isn't the greatest and the sharp metal edge of the bushing was digging in and causing the bushings to not start square to the location. some time with a small die makers file and it helped a lot. I put a chamfer on the leading edge of the bushing band helped a lot, i also used some assembly grease and froze the bushing to shrink it a tad.

    A piece of 5/8" grade 8 all thread is a great replacement for a press if you have the patience. I used a 2" x 3" pipe fitting as a stand off/support to pull against with the bushing, i didn't want to wreck the sub frame trying to pull against the thin wall tubing the bushing resides in.

    Now i just have to put it all back together.

    Subframe is back in!

    Diff bushing crush tubes all lubed up and inserted.

    put the front dogbone in so I could lift it up with the jack. not pictured some 2x4's so it would lift evenly.

    Subframe in! Bushings look great and cant wait to see how they improve the car.

    Now to finish installing the rest of the arms and torque it all to spec.

  10. #10
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    once the subframe was in and settled i toured to spec, will be checking it again after a couple hundred miles for any settling.

    upper arms have all new bushings and are in.

    remove the little trim piece, two 12mm fasteners to get access to the bolt to stick a torque wrench on it.

    Set the adjustable arms to match the OEM track and toe arm lengths to start with. gets it close to the ballpark to start for when you go in for an alignment. i used the oem arms and bolts to make sure they matched up before snugging the arms up for installation.

    everything installed and torqued to spec, waiting on the trailing arms and hubs.

    driver side trailing arm and hub install.

    install should be done this weekend if the heat wave doesnt get to bad.

    all new shinny rear subframe and trailing arm bits are installed and torqued to spec. she looks good, cant wait to get it on the ground and aligned.

    only thing left to do is put the brakes back on, and bleed the brakes.

    after than itll be on to the install the JDM front clip.

    Finally got the old girl back on the ground.

    still need to bleed the brakes a few more times to get all the air out of the lines and take her in for an alignment but shes off the jackstands! after the alignment its time for some new tires.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Adjusted the park brakes and bleed the brakes, and put the new in transmission mount into the car last weekend and got it on the ground, took it around the block everything felt good, and went to park and the park brake cable on the passengers side broke. im going to replace both the drives side and passenger side here when the parts get in. Ordered one of each p/n's 26051AE06A & 26051AE07A. Ill add pictures when they get in.

    But since now I have all the mechanical parts fixed up and repaired it was time to swap the front clip.

    Stripped of the USDM Legacy L front clip and waiting on the JDM Spice I got a while back.

    test fit of the bumper and lights, still need to sort out all the wiring to have the correct connectors for the fogs and the hids.

    Some more work today since its finally cooling back off.

    Got the core support separated from the cut off, the headlight supports should be larger that the ones on my chassis and allow the headlights and ballasts to fit with no needing to hammer it open.

    also test fit the fenders, i knew the jdm trim line wouldn't match the usdm from research I had done in, but i think i have a plan for what I'm going to do with them. if it works ill post it if not ill find a passenger side usdm fender to replace the trashed one on that side.

  11. #11
    Administrator rkrenicki's Avatar
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    Wow, that is some very nice progress! Too bad you are on the opposite coast from me, I have an extra rear Japanese windscreen and wiper assembly for the sedan that would go nicely on your car..

  12. #12
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    Thanks! yeah its been lots of little things here and there, and this summer since I now have a garage its really taken off! I would love to have the JDM rear windscreen and wiper! although the next upgrade i have planed is koni's and new springs. hopefully those will get together and go on after i finish the wiring and jdm swap!
    Last edited by xrayspecs; 10-17-2020 at 10:36 PM.

  13. #13
    SLi Resident thenines''s Avatar
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    central mass
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    I haven't seen an outside lift since I move back to Mass. from Florida
    Legacys are like potato chips-You can't stop at just one!

  14. #14
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    Its nice in the cooler months of the year, but when summer in Arizona comes around its not very fun to use.

  15. #15
    "FNG" subyroo's Avatar
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    Sunshine Coast - Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrayspecs View Post
    Thanks! yeah its been lots of little things here and there, and this summer since I know have a garage its really taken off! I would love to have the JDM rear windscreen and wiper! although the next upgrade i have planed is koni's and new springs. hopefully those will get together and go on after i finish the wiring and jdm swap!
    Holy Cow! I could retire on the money that you have sunk into your car.
    On a serious note though, you have done a great job in getting the car back into good shape, well done, take a bow!

  16. #16
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    Thanks, its not done yet, still got other plans for it after the konis and springs. currently still need to finish wiring in the jdm pigtails where needed, and adding the necessary wiring/relay so the JDM lights work properly. and finish swaping the core so that all the crash damage is fixed.

    I dont have that much into it yet. I cant go too wild while its a driver! hope to have it all back on the road in the next month.

  17. #17
    SLi O.G. 98legwag's Avatar
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    Wow that is a lot of work. Well done.

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