i need to find a B4 oem option lip the oem "fangs" for the bumper now!
Big news on this one coming soon... making room in the garage for something, hope to be able to post an update soon.
Back in the garage, cause well big things happening.
i need to find a B4 oem option lip the oem "fangs" for the bumper now!
Big news on this one coming soon... making room in the garage for something, hope to be able to post an update soon.
Back in the garage, cause well big things happening.
So big chapter here ending for the build thread, i think in all ease of use I'm going to keep this singular thread going and change the top post maybe to reflect the changes that have been made.
The ol girl after 7 years and 60k miles is going to go into retirement. but not without giving up her heart and parts to a new chassis. A month back I got a DM from another member here Jacobpockros about his car having a dead heart and wanting to know what parts I wanted off his chassis. Knowing that mine has at least 4 small and 1 large crash on the title and that no mater what you do or how its repaired uncashed cars will always be worth more. link to his original thread on the car here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.ph...t=Jacobpockros I told him I wasnt interested in a part out but wanted the whole car. After a little back and forth and a visit down to confirm the car looked as good in person as it did in pictures I made an offer and bought it from him. Finally got down today to pick her up and get her back to my place.... So after a year and a half of major work on my chassis. Im going to take it all back apart to swap everything over to this newer chassis. It doesnt make a lot of sense but passion projects never doo. first up will be to pull both motors and do a throttle body and cam reluctor wheel swap so that I can use the ej out of the 02 in this 01. from there its subframes and parts! hopefully it goes as smooth as I have it in my head.
now for some pictures of the new chapter.
Picking the car up!
Made the trip home and now to unload into the garage.
Minty clean interior, need to deep clean the carpet but other than that this thing is a time capsule. Just needs a new shift boot.
looks good in the garage waiting for some upgrades.
Two BE's sitting pretty for now. Time for major work for them both.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 10-19-2021 at 10:45 AM.
congrats on new ride, was he as stubborn in person as he is in his posts? From what I remember he didn't cheap out on parts for that thing so should be a nice ride.
98 GT -- Intro to Subaru. Cooked HG, dead suspension, and lots of ricer mods.
02 Outback H6 -- No more HG issues, but ate two 4eats.
09 Subaru Tribeca -- slow and ....um fat, definitely fat.
13 E350 S212 -- No more Subaru!! Why does that make me happy?
Its in great shape body and interior wise. from what I see on the receipts and for the spares he gave me everything was kept as OEM as possible everywhere. cant wait to build it into what I want with all the parts ive acquired on my old one. should be fun to do it all a second time.
Well couldn't wait forever, last picture of the car as I received it.
The white jdm spats I've been holding onto will eventually make there way onto this car. you can see that the JDM white is more brilliant white, while the USDM white is a yellower/creamier white here.
Last time that it'll be have the USDM headlights, hood, and bumper.
Doing my best to keep this cream puff dent and scratch free.
for a 20 year old car the engine bay has been kept pretty clean. but there are a few things that will need to be added to my pull list from the green chassis. based on the once over, the throttle cable for the cruise control, the cruise control module possibly.
Rad and fans removed to make it easier to slip the motor out. AC comp disconnected from the engine, plan to leave the system connected so that I dont have to vacuum and recharge. power steering lines also disconnected and removed.
the Ebay/DNA uel headers look to be in good shape, all disconnected. they will eventually make there way too a for sell thread once i have sense of all the parts im going to keep/sell.
the was a massive oil leak on the drivers side header that was running out. if i get a wild hair and feel like it ill tear this engine apart and see what the failure mode was.
some other things i notice in and around the car.
Got the last few bolts on the engine loose to get the whole thing free, looks like the starter is the original Denso unit, ill be replacing that with the newer starter I have when this all goes back together.
But in taking the headers off to I found the problem with the "fresh rebuilt" engine that was in the car, when I dropped the header it sounded like there was pebbles in the header.
I found bits and pieces of exhaust valves in the head when I dumped it out. ill have to pull the whole exhaust now to make sure to get any other pieces of valve out of them since the previous owner told me he drove it home while it was loosing power. looks like the whole block and heads are trash now. No chance at saving the aftermarket "hot" cams that were installed in the heads.
Number 3 cylinder has both exhaust valves, but they look wetter than they should for a fresh rebuild.
looked at the #4 cylinder found the missing exhaust valve, looks like the head was either rebuild wrong, the car was over revved/money shifted, or oil starved doing donuts. :iam:
Dropped valves do match up with the complaints that the owner was telling me about it having a consistent misfire after he rebuilt it.
BUT WAIT THERES MORE!!!! On closer inspection it dropped both #4 exhaust valves!!!! knowing that the #4 cylinder made best friends with the exhaust valves i dont think ill tear the motor apart there is not going to be much i can sell from piece parts off it.
Subaru in its natural habitat.
everything ready to come out!
Heart removed!
something has a massive leak, either the transmission snout or the rear main on the block, ill have to pull the clutch off to see what might need to be fixed before it all goes back together. while under the car i noticed the rebuilt rack was leaking fluids from both passenger and drivers sides, both inner tierod boots were full of fluid. good thing i have a brand new +15 STI rack to use!
now to play shuffle in the garage to make space for the second BE so that i can pull the engine on the flat surface of the garage floor. only major thing i dislike about my house is the drive is at a steep incline.
Finally sat down and went though and put together the build list for parts that will make the migration to the white 01.
and oh boy its a list. I think by moving the subframes chassis to chassis it should make it easier that removing and reinstalling everything.
Chassis/Suspension:
Entire rear subframe.
Timken Rear unit bearings (p/n 512183 )
Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A )
Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 )
Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 )
Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 )
Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 )
Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 )
Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 )
Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 )
Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 )
Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 )
ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 )
Subaru of America Bolt Flange shock rear lower (p/n 901000177 )
Subaru of America Washer shock rear lower (p/n 900335056 )
Subaru of America Nut shock rear lower (p/n 20550AA010 )
Rear Shocks
Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1
Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400
Entire front subframe
Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) moved to STI rack for outers.
Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 )
Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 )
Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 )
Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 )
Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 )
Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 )
SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 )
Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 )
Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 )
Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 )
SKP new equipment power steering pump (p/n sk215254 )
Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 )
Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 )
Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 )
Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 )
Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 )
ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 )
Cusco Racing front strut tower brace (p/n 680 540 A) decide if using this unit or the white unbranded one that is on the car.
Koni Yellows assemblies:
Front Struts.
Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT
OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts.
Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100
Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250
Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450
Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147.
Engine:
Interstate Green Top MT-35.
Rebuilt heads and short block
Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 )
PCV Valve replaced with OEM unit (p/n 1181080W00 )
PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS
OEM Idle Air Control Valve (p/n 22650AA192, INTERMOTOR AC519 )
Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R )
OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 )
WIX Air filter (p/n 42728 )
Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header
Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B )
STP Air filter replacement (p/n SA9113 )
IMC exhaust flange gasket (p/n 224 4901 333 )
Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL )
Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 )
Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 )
Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 )
Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 )
NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 )
Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T )
Drivetrain:
Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 )
Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk
Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings
Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings
Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 )
Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urathane (p/n 9563 )
Interior:
LED replacement dome light bulb
OEM WIX cabin filters replaced (p/n 72880AE080 )
Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD )
Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 )
Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan
Wink 5 panel mirror. (p/n)
Exterior:
DRL’s disabled
Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Supertones
JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails
UNK Front fender lines (p/n SU1248104 , SU1249104 ) the ones are the car are blown out from rub.
Wheels/Tires:
Enkei RPF1 17x8 5x100 +45.
VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17.
Parts so far on the for sale list so far, sure to grow, this will all eventually make its way to a dedicated for sale listing.
DNA Motoring/Ebay UEL Headers
Perrin Lightweight crank pully
Drag DR-31 wheels with Firestone staggered? setup tires (205/225)
16" OEM snowflakes (still on the fence about keeping)
Tein S-Tech Springs
KYB gr2 Struts
Rear Tophat Spacers
Core dressed long block, will probably part this out if people need items from it, based on the damage to the #4 and #3 cylinders the block dropped 2 exhaust valves, and broke the #3 rocker arm, that the whole thing is pretty much only good for someone that needs a ej core the delta cams i can almost guarantee are scored after looking at the lifter followers. i did take the crank and cam trigger/reluctor wheels off for the engine swap as the part numbers from 02/01 are different and will need them.
OEM GT/Outback healights no broken tabs, light hazing.
Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel based on paperwork have about 15k miles on them. might hold onto depending on if i look at my clutch on the engine coming out and see that my flywheel is in bad shape... tbd.
Ebay white no name strutbar, if i decide to keep the cusco unit i have, otherwise ill leave it on. depends on if the custco hits the JDM hood. i havent fit checked it yet.
OEM ELH and full OEM cat back for anyone looking to go back to stock.
whole Manual 02 BE chassis, not worth much with no motor, but would be willing to make a deal to someone that needs all the parts to do a H6 auto to manual swap. or i might just hold onto it and get myself a H6 Bh and do that myself eventually....
lots of work to do on this and hope to have it all done by month end. amazing how fast you get when its your 5th time taking it all apart.
Wow. So many parts and so much work over time. Congrats, hope this is working out for you!
2010 Red Impreza 2.5i hatchback - SOLD
(Still driving a Subaru now, though)
popped the valve covers off of the engine to see how bad the damage on the number 4 cylinder was, cant even see the valve stem retainers. so its really all lost in there somewhere, and low and behold the #3 valve had also left the chat! between that and the scoring on the rocker followers, this block and all the parts aren't good for anything but a core at this point. I don't have a 12 point socket so I wont be taking the heads off this, dont even know what to do with it other than turn it into a boat anchor.
Scoring on the #1 exhaust roller, the #2 looked like this too.
more damage.
close up of the broken rocker arm, looks more like a improper or unchecked valve lash at this point. but thats as far as ill go to the failure mode.
picture of the weeping rear main. made an absolute mess of the bellhosing on the transmission.
Stripping all the USDM bits off that will be swapped for the JDM parts.
got the front Drags off, these will be up for sale too, cleaned them up the best i could, they all have heavy use.
Pulled out the front subframe, since in my head this is the fastest solution. pulled off the whiteline bar, as that will be the only thing that stays on the car. ill have to mic the brakes and see what rotors have the most meat on them and use those.
will need to get new endlinks though they are blooown out. i have a plan for that though.
front shocks out, these are on the for sell pile, the oem springs and shocks from the 02/green one i held onto and will go back on it so i can move it around.
Complete car and the one everything is going onto! got them both in the garage. I'll make sure the next house is a 3 car, or that the driveway is flat so its usable space. cant wait to have this all done.
Started the process of pulling the engine on the 02. came across the following on the fuel hoses. looks like I'll have to buy some fuel hoses to the parts list I need. since the fuel lines on the 01 were old and cracked.
moved the hood over, the 01 USDM hood was so heavy taking it off compared to the JDM hood. everything bolted up nice and easy.
at this pace in another week should be that much closer!
damn, this is probably one of the most entertaining builds in a minute. sad to see the it go, but that white BE is fuckin slick. seriously makes me want a 3rd gen bad.
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
Thanks, I sat in her for a solid 20 min and drank a beer before the part out started, knowing how much work ive put into it over the years. She'll live on in the new white one, and will look great once its all complete
isn't it strange how we can become emotionally attached to cars like that?
I am really bad at anthropomorphizing my car. Sometimes i worry about its feelings.
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
Getting all the closer! stripped a lot of the parts off the 02 that will be transferred over to the new car.
Rad and the double main fans moved over. ill have to check the old rad off the 01 and see if the fan is yellowed this bad or not. if it isnt ill move it over so that the fans match color better. Rad and all the hoses are getting moved since i know the mileage on them. not sure what the other one has.
Grabbed the power steering cooler, now just need to install it on the core, that will probably happen after the engine is in so i don't crush it leaning over the core.
when moving the JDM hood over, i noticed that the liner was coming apart really bad and leaving fiberglass all over the engine bay. pulled it off and trashed it. ill have to see if one of the USDM liners i have will fit. or just leave the hood without it. can see here it absolutely fell part trying to take it off.
Also popped the cam timing cover off and confirmed that the timing marks are different on the cam, will have to pull the timing belt and gears off the 02 block and put the ones from the 01 block on, I figure that this was the case as the FSM and the part #'s are different between the two years.
Not sure if anyone has ever put real Borlas next to the DNA motoring knock offs and taken pictures, but since I have both in my possession
right now figured why not. Pictures of the headers side by side. I dont have a scale to measure them but i would wager that the DNA's are made out of a much thinner wall tubing holding them both at the same time.
DNA on the top/Borla on the bottom.
Borla
DNA/Ebay.
Borla
DNA/Ebay
Borla
DNA/Ebay
Borla
DNA/Ebay
All the JDM hotness stripped off the old car now.
Engine is out and ready to get the timing gears swapped now! 3
Should have the subframes swapped this weekend and the running EJ in soon! fingers crossed.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 11-12-2021 at 01:15 PM.
Updates on the progress so far, managed to borrow some 12pt sockets from a friend so that I could get the head studs loose on the blown up EJ, i just really wanted to see how bad it really was and it didnt disapoint.
Quite a lot of carbon build up on the cylinders and the heads, but it does alow you to see right where the exhaust valves kissed.
First view with the head pulled.
If you look close you can see the exhaust valve steam on the #4 cylinder lodged itself into the head, also the valves where pretty chipped so they made some hard contact with the cylinders. Safe to say any rebuilding of this block is not worth it.
Whole EJ25 is propperly mangled.
I also dropped the clearanced subframe out of the green 02 with the shocks. Lots of elbow greas into to cleaning all the caked on power steering fluid and road grime off the subframe before putting it into the 01. Ive been taking the time to clean things on this go around. I also noticed in the process of removing the 01's subframe that I could feel that the hub bearings were crunchy in a few spots, its expected at 180k, so glad im just moving everything over so that i have newer parts on the 01. For reference the bearings im moving over only have 8k miles in the front and 28k in the rear.
I even pulled the steering rack off to clean under it, this took way longer than I thought it would. In the end glad I did it though. You can see the clearnacing required to fit the '15 STI rack.
All cleaned up and all buttoned up with the Whiteline sway bar.
The bellhousing also had a lot of oil so cleaned it up. No one will see it but but its more for piece of mind so that I dont have to worry about it runing the clutch. After cleaning the transmission up I moved my newer slave cylinder and hydraulic hose over to the 01.
Since the 01 has a brokend cruise control cable shield I pulled the cruise control box and cable off the 02, the cruise control cable and module all look in really good shape. Based on the pinouts in the FSM match between model years.
Also since I have both subframes apart, I was hoping since the 01 was a GT Limited that it would have the larger rev C/D front brakes which are a 292x24 size rotor. After measuring and cross checking part numbers it looks like the 01 GT-L came with the 276x24 rotors that are the 00-04 non-gt/ob's. looks like the gt rotor size upgraded in 02-04. Based on the reciepts I have the rotors on the 01 are newer/lower milage than the ones on the 02 so the rotors/pads/calipers will stay on the 01. since i have 17's and dont plan to go to 15/16s anytime in the future ill have to get a set of 316x30mm front rotors/calipers and 290x18mm rotors/braket/backing plate from a 05-09 GT chassis for a budget bbk.
The last step of removing parts from the front of the 02 is the JDM light pigtails, kartboy transmission and shifter bushings. I had to put the front subframe back in so that theres something to rest the transmission on while removing the rear bushings. I also took the time to grab the new fender liners as well.
Pulled all the JDM Rev D pigtails back to the fuse box and depinned the connector so that i can have all the OEM wiring for the JDM harness from the fuse box to the lights. A real PITA but worth it so itll be done to OEM spec.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 11-18-2021 at 07:01 PM. Reason: grammar
you know that johnny cash song "One Piece at a time"?
your car reminds me of that song. You're getting a brand new legacy... one piece at a time.
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
yeah i already have most of the pieces now, just moving them around for now.Originally Posted by lord flashheart
More work progressing, got the Kartboy shifter bushings and transmission crossmember bushings of the 02.
Pulled the new solid transmission bushing out of the 02.
Clearanced subframe, 15+ STI rack and parts going into the 01!
Subframe up and bolted on!
Installed the sway bar backwards when the subframe was out, had to pull it of to flip. easy mistake to make when the subrame is upsidown and out of the car.
Found this gem, when pulling the rear transmission subframe brace, at first noticed that one of the bolts was missing.
After pulling the brace out could see that the chassis nut on the 01 was mangled at some point and never fixed... ill have to get to this in the future.
All the old crusty shifter and transsmission bushings off the 01.
new Kartboy front shiter bushing.
all bolted up!
Starting on installing the front dampers and brakes! getting close to getting the 01 back on the ground. need to clean up the tuner lug nuts as they all have crap in the back threads and wont go on by hand. Another thing for the to do list.
LOL'd at the valve kissing comment
Also, that short block is probably still serviceable. Sometimes when they break valves, the valve will punch a hole in the piston or scar the cylinder walls, but that looks fine in the pictures. See that dent in the combustion chamber, right between the exhaust ports? if the valve had been facing the other direction, it would most likely have punch through the piston. I would keep it as a back-up shortblock.
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
i would normally agree, but something is wrong at the rear main, i have reciepts for 4 of 5 rear main seals in the pile that were givent to me for the car, the rear main on it looks really new, but is still leaking like crazy all over my garage floor. There was oil everywhere inside the clutch area, and on the subframe from it. I found a thread from the previous owner asking if consuming 2 qts of oil every 3k miles was normal for these cars as he was only getting 2qts out at oil changes. I dont think this ej was treated to a great life the last 70k miles. would it do in a pinch? probalbly. would i put it in the car without rebuilding it right now? no.
Yea that is excessive. I wonder if someone scared the block when they pried the old seal out and that's why its leaking.
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
More progress on this long weekend.
Finished up the passanger side suspenion and got it togther.
Since almost everything under the car has been touched and is suspension based, going through and torque checking every bolt to make sure its to spec.
Straightend out the steering wheel and installed the shortened steering u-joint.
installed the throwout bearing off the 02, it felt tighter and made less noise when spun by hand. lubed up the contact points with high temp red grease so its ready to install. Since I had this problem when I installed the JDM transmission a few years ago in the 02, I checked to make sure that the dowel pins were punched out of the transmission, nothing like trying to punch those out under the car when you cant get the transmission or engine to slide together. you can see here the passanger side is in the transmission, the 02 engine has them still on both sides so I punched it out.
Topped off the clutch reservoir and the brake reservoir so that they can gravity fill while waiting to get bleed. the whole brake system will need to be bleed once all the work is done.
Started the electrical work to fit the JDM headlamps and fog lights.
JDM fog light connectors are way nicer than the usdm, they have a weather seal.
JDM headlamp connectors, same as before, pulled all the way to the fuse box so its just the same as it would have been on the JDM OEM car I stripped it from.
The 01 fuse box lid was cracked, good thing ill be replacing it with the JDM cover.
Since I was already super deep in the fuse box, took the time to cut in the power to the fog relay from the wagon washer plug that the sedan doesnt have so that the fog has key switched power. still need to jumper the plug on the dash and disable the DRL's.
Power steering cooler installed on the chassis, will plumb this in after the engine is in.
Next step is swaping the timing reluctor for the cam and the crank, i confirmed p/n in the FSM and catalog were different on the manual between 01 and 02. So off comes the timing. i already stripped the ones i need off the blown up engine.
To make retiming easy just followed the FSM instructions for setting the timing marks to the head seams, and the crank trigger mark. Used a paint pen to mark rotation and timing location on the 02 belt. the belt on the 01 was oil soaked from a cam seal that was leaking a ton of oil, so it went in the trash. can see the nutsert on the plastic on the 02 broke from just being old and brittle when taking everything apart.
pulled all the timing cover parts and pulleys out and washed them all off, so that I could use the cleanest looking parts on the 01.
Had to reuse all the old timing cover seals from the 02, the ones that were new and came off the blown 01 motor were all oil soaked from the metioned cam seal, the gaskets had all swollen up and started to disintigrate, you can see here how swollen they got from the oil on the left.
Here you can see the reason for taking the timing all the way off, the 02 triggers are on the left and the 01 triggers are on the right.
Also found that the woodruff key on the 02 engine had broken, due to the harmonic ballancer that was on the engine having a chunk of the keyway missing. replaced the key with a new one and started to reasemble, means that Ill have to use the perrin pulley till I can get a new harmonic balancer.
The factory design on the tensioner with the ability to lock the pistion down is so simple but brillant too not have to fight the tensioner when putting the belt on.
the outer driverside back timing cover on the 02 you can see the missing nutzert, so will be using the one off the 01.
Belts and timing all buttoned up with and torqued down to spec.
Cam's torque checked, belt teeth counts checked and match factory sepc's, cant be to careful as this it the first time ive done timing on a SOHC EJ.
All on the hoist and ready to slide in!
Had some trouble getting it all to slide together the last little, but pulled it all apart, rotated the imput shaft a bit, and then it all slide together perfect. Engine sitting in the bay, ready to be finished off. Started all the engine bolts, and its waiting to be finished up, hopefully have it all done tomorrow.
Still have a few things left to get before I can finish up and fire it.
to-do still.
buy Anti-freeze and subaru coolant additive
New airfilter, its just time for one dont want to dust the motor
fuel lines
exhaust manifold/header gaskets
exhaust header/cat gasket
clearance headlight bucket area for JDM ballasts
install bumper and skin.
fog light switch jumper for headlight indepenance
drl disable so the hid's dont burn out the ballasts
bleed brakes
roll fenders
other misc things.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 11-28-2021 at 01:31 PM.
More work getting closer to firing the 01 up.
Torqued the power steering hoses down, if i ever want to add a turbo, will have to go the custom hose route.
When putting the starter in, and landing the grounds noticed that the ground strap clip was missing, pulled the piece off the 01 and moved it over to the motor from the 02 and everything sealed up so I could start burping the cooling system.
Borla headers and everyting bottom side all torqued to spec.
Also the 01 had the OEM undertrain on it, but from all the leaks it was super oil soaked. lots of degreaser and washing of it all.
Put all the hoses back on and the rad is in, time to fill with fluid and burp it.
The heater core hose that was on the motor on the 02 didnt quite seal up tight, it felt good when i put it on and tightened it up but, when trying to burp.
Still need to get fuel hoses now and she will be all ready to fire up.
Got the front lights and bumper skin on as well! looking great.
Checking that I did all the wiring corret.
Foglights work and they are headlight independent now.
Headlamps, turnsignals, high/low beams work and the dash indicator works as well!.
not much left on the font end to-do now!
if you go turbo? if? IF?? doing a build like this and not going F/I is a slap in the face to the Legacy Gods!
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
I have other plans before I go to a turbo power plant. still have some suspension and other driveline things i want to do before i go turbo. those will hopefully happen in the next year. I'd also like to find a clean H6 LLBean NonVDC wagon since i have a stripped chassis that has everything i'd need to do a 5mt swap on one.... maybe find a rev. d blitzen clip for one... i'd need a 2nd car for me before i can do another engine out for the harness merge needed to go turbo.
Brake and Clutch bleed! oh man was the fluid disgusting brown, nothing like fresh fluids! doing it with a self bleeder kit always takes sometime but thats the way it goes.
All bleed and taking the time to try and burp the coolant before the first fire. everything connected and torqued to spec!
First time on the ground with all the fresh parts. still missing the undertray and some clips for the bumper that i need to put on the sides, but at this point im to excited to fire it up!
Man the BE's look so good with the jdm parts and dropped low on the ground.
Got the car started up and drove around the block! the ECU did throw a MIL, and two codes when i scanned. one for P1507, and for P0107. the reman power steering pump thats on the 02 motor that went into the car is also screaming for its life, and sounds terrible. I'm going to have to pull the ps pump off the 01 motor and swap it onto the 02 motor.
The P1507, for some research looks to be the neutral switch on the transmission, so cleared the code. If the P1507 comes back ill have to get the switch off the 02 transmission and throw it on the 01.
the P0107, is for manifold absolute pressure circuit low, I had a feeling that the ecu would throw a code like this when i started the swap but was hopeful that it wouldnt happen. the 01 manual has a different throttle body and different pressure/temp sensor part number than the manual 02 does. ill clear it and drive it a while and if it pops back up, ill have to do a throttle body swap (possibly the manifold) and wiring so that the ECU is happy.
BUT the best part, got to take it around the block! Its in the driveway now! It looks so good where its sitting! now i need to flip the 02 in the garage so that i can get to the rear subframe and swap those now so that I'll have all the new parts on one chassis!
These should have come with the hood scoop from the factory like the JDM car's got. it really goes with the chassis.
On the to do list now.
Swap the power steering pump
finish installing all the xmas tree fasteners in the bumper on the fenders.
install JDM rain gaurds/spats
figure out the P0107 CODE issue.
put the trans subframe, brakes and wheels back on the 02 so that i can flip it around in the garage to access the rear subframe.
swap rear subframes this will take swaping the diffs as the 01 has a 4.11FD and the 02 has a 3.90FD cant mix and match the rear diff and the trans.
roll the fenders so i can fit 235's
4 wheel alignment
Goddamn that looks good!
No, no ,no I'm not insulting you, I'm describing you!
It does look good, has me motivated to finish more of the small stuff on it.
More small work on the car, lots of little things to do so that it feels like my car.
Found the source of the P0107 code, and the hesitation at idle/off throttle. In my rush to put the air box back on one of the 6 times i took it on and off i forgot to reinstall the valve cover breathers. poped it back on and the motor is much happier now. no more instant P0107. still getting the P1507 code, going to start with changing the NSS on the transmission over since i know the one on the 02 is good.
Removed the oem shift knob pulled the Hurst gray one of the '02. ill have to see about getting a black or all white one at some point to better match. ive always liked pool ball style shifters better than anything else. The gray will have to do for now.
Test fit the Custco bar, to make it fit on the 02 i had to space up the hood in the cowl area, not ideal as it can mess with the cooling on the car, since it is a high pressure area. i wanted to see if with the JDM hood it would clear the bottom since i hadnt put it on the 02 for a test fit yet.
The JDM strut towers might be in a slightly different angle/position... as on the USDM chasis it runs into the hood as you can see the scratch here from setting the hood down lightly on it. ill run the solid strut bar that came with the car for now, but it needs to be painted a different color, maybe STI pink or all black. the white doesnt color matche the chassis and it bugs the hell out of me.
also installed the factory battery tie down, and noticed its majorly corroded on the bottom side. maybe time for an aluminum upgrade maybe go all Kartboy when i get the short throw shifter, the endlinks and pitch stop.
More small work on the car after work when I get the time, lots going on this time of year that keeps pulling me away.
I need to find an aftermarket rad cowl that isnt bent, the custco will do for now but the bend in it still bugs me.. using the white strut bar for now. blacking it out is on the to do list.
As i wasnt sure if when I was going to be done taking the bumper on and off i had skipped installing the side supports and putting the fender and wheel liner clips on. Since i dont think the bumper will be coming off anytime soon i dug them out and put them on. also picture are the JDM wheel deflectors i had from the half cut, i was going to install them at the same time but it looks like the USDM strut and fender liners arent drilled for them. a project for another day. they went back into the spares pile.
Fenders line up way better now! all the little finishing steps always take way more time than anticipated.
Since I had dug them all out earlier, and am not planing to take the bumper off anytime soon, put the nice new bumper clips on.
The car has been detailed great on the outside and for the floors/seats but is in need of a lot of unseen detail work. when the engine was out i spent a large chunk of time with the degreaser and scrubbers cleaning up on the firewall, subframe, and fenders. anywhere i could reach without removing more parts got a scrub. continuing in that the rear trunk rain gutters were filled with tree junk and dirt/sap mix of some sort, but a bit of cleaner and elbow grease and it mostly cleaned up. I need to get a few more detail burshes to be able to reach all the spots here and under the hood. Soon ill have to check all the moon roof drains to make sure they arent clogged with the same gunk.
Before, also added a save the stick sticker I had.
After, also got the bottom lip of the trunk that was covered in the same stuff.
More personal touches to the car, Added the Hella Supertones and put the front plate on.
As the hood latch has to come off to get the passanger side horn bolt off the car, I took the chance to better align the hood and bumper overlap and it's a much better fit now.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 12-11-2021 at 02:39 PM.
Slow work as its been cold and rainy when I've had free time. I did manage to get a little break this weekend and disabled the DRL's and divorced the fog lights from the light stock so that they can be turned on with acc power and stay on with the high beams. The light control module on the GT/Outbacks is the vertical module next bolted to the steering column next to the 12V seatbelt timer module. The DRL module has two plugs a black one and a white one, the white connector on top needs to be removed and the DRL's will be disabled. Tuck the white connector back up into the harness and its all done. Much easier than it was on the '02 L. Also confirmed with the rain thats been happening that the moonroof drains are infact plugged, when driving around the block it dribbles all around the headliner trim. Once the rain clears I will have to clean out the rain gutters and drains.
This is the plug here that needs to be removed.
Time to divorce the fog light switch from the headlight stock so that fogs stay on with high beams. Switch panel off. I am not sure what the wires on the right are for, as they all plug into a deadface on the front. If anyone knows what the 3rd switch on the right on the sedans is for I'd love to know, especially since whatever it is the whole harness looks to already be installed.
Depined, black ground and yellow/black connections, jumpered and soldered toghether.
Heatshrinked up for reinstall.
Fully indepenent fog lights now.
I'm not vibing with the tall Drag lug nuts on the ARP studs, dont like this look, replacement short lug nuts are on the to buy list for sure now.
Much better daylight view of the hood/bumper overlap and the fender/bumper aligning perfect now! I need to pick the locks for the roof rack so that I can see how it looks without it, I didnt get the keys for the roof rack when I bought the car.
Picture of the JDM cut off on the bulbs. You can see they are backwards to the USDM cut offs. I might eventually do the reflector black out that just makes the cut off flat. Its a lot of work as you have to bake and reseal the headlamps. Not sure how the misses feels about me baking car parts in the kitchen stove.
3/4 rear view, checking all the lights, the 3rd window and the wing light both work with the brake pedal. The door puddle lights on both sides work, the 02 L didnt have those, its a nice upgrade.
Car rear view. i need to get my DSLR out and grab some good standing shots of it.
Last edited by xrayspecs; 12-15-2021 at 10:59 AM.
havent been working on the as much with rain and the holidays havent had much time so tackled some of the little things. i havent been able to work on the 02 getting it back together to flip in around as i have a birdbath that froms in the garage when it rains super heavy.
With all the rain took the time to check the moonroof gutters, they looked pretty clear, and the drains were all unplugged, did a water check and they all dribbled out the respective spots at the bottom of the car which is good.
While looking at the moon roof realized that the installed wind deflector had some huge piles of muck undeath and the window seal all the way around had a lot of dirt in it, figured that was contributing to a leaky seal as water was probably coming through that way.
wind deflector that is currently installed on the moonroof.
You can see hear that the dirt goes right up to the window seal, this is part of the water ingress.
All cleaned up, I put the wind defector back on for now, it may come off with the rack here in the future.
Decided it was also time to swap the power steering pump as i dont enjoy hearing it whine.
While removing the power steering pump from the car the threads on one of the bolts for the bracket came out with the bolt. I knew that the install of the engine had gone to smooth.
location of the spicy suck spring, on the block. location not the greatest but its accessable.
Removed power steering pump fromt he car, so that the unit can be replaced with the pump from the blown up motor.
All ready to go waiting on thread repair.
Spoke with one of my friends on the repair, I was going to use a Helicoil for the threads, he suggested that I look into a Time-Sert. After some reseatch it looked like a better solution. It just took a while to ship out.
Had to remove the rad, the a/c condensor, and main pully to get to the threads, once that was all out it was a really quick process to bore, ream, thread, and install the insert.
checking and realizing the pully would need to come off.
Thread repair inserts are steel. Uses a special driver to install.
Power steering pump installed and all back together. I also removed the air inject solenoid and bracket as the 01 ECU doesnt have any pin outs to control it on the engine plug on the B21/E2 connector and its useless. If the ecu keeps throwing codes and idling high (1000-1500) ill have to change the throttle body and the E2 Harness as the 01 MT E2 Harness is very different than the 02 MT harness thats on the engine. (sensors are all different). The car also has a engine cut at 6K rpm only in first. its odd.
While under the hood checkd all the plug wires to make sure they are all good, looks like the number 2 cylinder plug had some water intrusion. the plug wire was really corroded. so replaced the plug wires with those off the blown up engine and cleaned up the post with some sand paper till it was shiny again.
Also as now Ive been driving the car I missed the timing on the steering ujoint by a spline or two based on where the car goes straing. I tried to adjust the timing, however with the car as low as it is now, cant get to the bottom pinch bolt on the ujoint as the CV is in the same space that a wrench needs to go to loosen it up. will have to reaign the wheel to the rack, here this week when i get the front end up to swap the NSS.
The steering wheel is off just a smidge.
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