1991 Liberty Sedan ( AWD, Turbo and standalone conversion. )

[rexhunta]

Hey.

Probably been seen before so will keep it short and sweet.

1991 Gen 1 Series 1 - EJ22E, 4 Speed FWD Auto. Bermuda Blue.

I bought it a couple of years ago from a 1 owner who lost her licence from age. Drove it home, and stuffed it into the back of the shed.



Did a little bit of research, bought a 2004 GD 2.5RS with a blown motor.



Gutted The driveline, pedal boxes, fuel tank, and heap of other bits and pieces i thought I could use.



Pulled the BC apart, cleaned all the threads to the unused bolt holes, trial fitted all the driveline. Pulled the fuel tanks, swapped them over. Pulled the pump assembly apart, fitted a Walbro 255lph for future. Rewired the harness to accept both level senders so the gauge would work properly.



Fitted all the GD driveline and GD cradles, temp fitted the tailshaft.



Fitted all the GD pedalboxes and hydraulic clutch setup.



Next, started to add a small power adder.



Pulled the motor out to give it a birthday. All gaskets, plugs, timing belt kit, idlers etc. Plugged and tapped the sump for the oil return, got Pirtek to make an oil feed line from the oil pressure switch. Fitted up dual catch can setup and cleaned the engine bay, and then got it back in and made some fmic piping.





State of the motor after 250k kms. Pretty Happy.



Got it all running, moveable. Next part, rust repairs. Both sides had rust in the bottom panel and the seal.







Did some work to get the intercooler properly in and fitted up so it hidden. This is before I painted it black for more stealthy.



When it was on the ground noticed the track seemed odd. So put the front GD hubs, aluminium lower control arms, brakes, and front swaybar in.





Stripped and patched.



Primed



Painted





Hated the paintwork I did so sent it off to the painters.



While it was at the painters, fumbled around with getting a proper tailshaft made. I had an RS tailshaft that I swapped the yoke on, but did not know that you can't swap stakeable Unis, bit of back and forth to local engineering shop, I grabbed a SF Forry tailshaft, and had it modified. They machined all 3 unis to accept external c clip types and extended the rear tube 60mm.





And now. Together. Had the number plates remade in classic Black on grey, instead of the black on yellow, these plates are the same that the car was originally licenced with.





Roofliner all redone by local trimmers.



Pretty Much stock interior apart from wheel, AEM Wideband and a boost gauge. Stock deck all works, no need to change !



Found some good nick tail lights so they went in.



And My first coffee and cars with a couple of mates in their euros, hhad a great time and got a heap of good comments and a lot of questions, and the usual " My Aunty had one of these " sorts of comments.



So quick Run down.

Ej22E + TD04HL @ 5 psi. Walbro pump, Tomei RRFPR. Shitty stainless headers, 3" exhaust, Hooker Muffler and Resonator.

GD Driveline, 5 speed manual, Clutch Industries HD single mass clutch, GD Cradles, GD Axles, GD fuel tank, modified SF Tailshaft, GD front control arms/hubs/swaybar, GC8 Coilovers, GD 17x7s, 215/45/17s.

90s momo wheel, aem wideband, boost gauge.

repainted in Bermuda Blue.

Current soonish future plans is injectors and a Haltech 750, get the tint stripped and redone, and get all the exterior trims rewrapped/painted/something.

Enough.

Pete.

[rexhunta]

So in the end, after a decent Bosch order.

60mm DBW Throttle Body

DBW Pedal

3 bar map and air temp sensor.

Air temp sensor

Water Temp sensor

Knock sensor

630cc injectors

EJ251 top feed fuel rails.

all the connectors to suit everything



Pulled intake manifold, replaced all the sensors I needed with the Bosch replacements and plugs, removed throttle body coolant lines, general clean up, removed other sensors didn't need.



Pulled the intake mani apart, deleted the IAC, removed the side feeds, had a look at the 3 sets of fuel rails I had on the shelf, and worked out to do a top feed conversion, I used the EJ253 rails, cut the FPR off and moved it right back towards the 3rd injector otherwise it would've been in the way of the intake of the turbo. Made a few more brackets to properly mount the rail solidly, replaced the injectors with Bosch 620s with new plugs to suit. Cleaned all the harness up, drileld and tapped new holes for the dbw throttle.



Started putting it together, made a few sensor adaptors and things, adjusted the fuel lines to fit in, using the Haltech internal map sensor with the Bosch air temp sensor.



and got everything together, laid in the harness in, started cleaning it up, need to modify the brackets for the coilpack cover so I can hide most of it again.



Unfortunately couldn't flip the throttle around upside down as it hits on the hydraulic slave for the clutch, so have to have it sitting up, unless I can work out a way to get a smaller slave clynder or being able to move it.

I've got the Bosch 3 bar map/air temp sensor that I haven't used, I figured for such a low hp number I'm better off using the internal map, but If I do, I'll move where I have made a bracket for the boost control solenoid and mount it inside the IAC blanking plate on the back of the manifold.

I added in a Haltech WB-1, reconfigured all the sensors so they talked properly, low and behold it fired off first go, held idle, made no funny noises. I was quite suprised since I used the RS Liberty map. But we'll take wins where we can ! Thanks to the Haltech forums on FB, I searched anything and everything and found every question I wrote down on a sheet of paper, so i didn't even need to post any questions, someone already had for me. Considering converting this to DBW, MAP, bigger injectors and removing all the IASC, I was super suprised the Haltech was smart enough to calculate the lot and sort something out, completely impressed.

I put a RB26DETT Boost Solenoid for the controller, I've used these in multiple cars and they work great for simple setups like this.

Here's a flick of the first start.

https://imgur.com/Z07SQqu

https://youtube.com/shorts/n3J7-_Zm2...4L87Ju3yE1fivd

Currently just waiting on a callback to find out where I can get it onto the awd dyno, but currently the WB-1 setup is definitely helping the map, I've cruised the block a couple of times, and the AF/R is right where I consider would be perfect for it. I'm am highly thinking about dumping the AEM wideband and grabbing the Haltech CAN gauge.

While I've been waiting picked up this GD WRX interior, so much better, and suits the blue door card and carpet. Got rid of a heap of human slim and liquids, although they do need another clean. Grabbed them quick as I could, they're the best looking set I've seen in a while with all good bolsters.





Cleaned the engine bay a bit more, modified the brackets for the engine cover so it hid the throttle body and boost controller, only thing that gives it away is the controller on the right hand side strut tower.



Haltech is mounted in the factory spot, when you flip down the coin tray, it gives direct access to the usb port.

[rexhunta]

And this is how the car looks now after the tint stripped off, and 20% all round fitted.






Have it roadtuned, its a lot nicer to drive, the Haltech has made this car really good. DBW is an absolute blessing, and once I got my head around it, easy to set up. The Air-Con, cruise control and any other factory items all work off the factory switches once setup right.

[Muse]

This is positively lovely. Obviously a bit modified, but to the untrained eye, it won't look a lick out of the ordinary.